1864
4,102 m
Adolphus Warburton Moore, Horace Walker, Edward Whymper, Christian Almer, Michel Croz
BARRE DES ECRINS
West Ridge (PD+, II)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€1,800
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
2 days
Barre des Écrins – Normal route
A four-thousander in the wild Dauphiné Alps – the Barre des Écrins
4,102 m · Difficulty PD+, II, 40° · 2 days · Dauphiné Alps
The Barre des Écrins holds a special place on the list of four-thousanders. It is not only the westernmost but also the southernmost four-thousander in the Alps. Despite these distinctions, the entire Dauphiné Alps region tends to be overlooked.
The French Alps are mostly associated with the Mont Blanc massif. Yet the "Karakoram of the Alps", as the Dauphiné is often called, has a mighty mountain world to offer. In fact, it is something of a blessing that this region gets nowhere near the attention it could: there are no crowds here like in so many other busy parts of the Alps, and you can still experience this wild landscape in its original character.
THE TOUR
The Barre des Écrins via the West Ridge is the normal route up this very special four-thousander. The ascent is magnificent scenically, and the entire Dauphiné Alps range is among the wildest regions anywhere in the Alps.
That its highest summit of all can be reached by a relatively easy normal route borders on a miracle. Even so, the tour asks a lot of those who climb it and must never be underestimated. On the north flank we have to cross the heavily crevassed Glacier Blanc, and at the end some climbing on the ridge awaits before we reach the highest point.
It is exactly this mix that makes the tour so appealing: a long hut approach, genuine high-alpine terrain, a striking ridge and, finally, the view across the "Karakoram of the Alps". The Barre des Écrins is no fashionable peak – and that is precisely part of its charm.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- 1 night in a hut with half board at the Refuge des Ecrins
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Dauphiné
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Ailefroide - Refuge Cezanne
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
Key to enjoyment
- Good fitness for 950 metres of ascent on summit day
- Good acclimatisation
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price from
€1,800
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet at the Refuge Cézanne at 1,874 metres. This car park can be reached by car in the valley beyond the village of Ailefroide. After a short gear check, we begin the ascent to the Refuge des Écrins. The path leads past the Refuge du Glacier Blanc and on through the impressive high-mountain landscape to our base for the night. We reach the hut after about four hours.
Walking time: 4 h | ↑ 1,300 m
⌂ Refuge des Écrins (3,175 m)
Day 2: Summit via the West Ridge
Breakfast is served early at the hut the next morning. Afterwards we set off by the light of our headlamps into the breaking day. At first we cross the Glacier Blanc on gentler ground before the terrain steepens on the flank north of the summit. Between the crevasse zones we climb up to the Brèche Lory below the Dôme de Neige. This is where the West Ridge begins, the last stretch before the summit. At the top we enjoy the view from the highest point of the Dauphiné and look down into this wild, rugged mountain range. The descent follows the ascent route back to the car park at the Refuge Cézanne.
↑ 950 m | ↓ 2,250 m | Difficulty: PD+, II, 40°
The story of the first ascent
The Barre des Écrins was likewise first climbed during the "Golden Age of Alpinism", on 25 June 1864, by the well-known English alpinists Edward Whymper, Horace Walker and Adolphus Warburton Moore, who often spent months travelling through the Alps making first ascents of the highest peaks, together with the equally famous mountain guides Michel Croz and Christian Almer, who made the dream tours of many English mountaineers possible. Near the summit they chose the direct north face, which has since been superseded by the West Ridge as the normal route. The Barre des Écrins holds a special place among the four-thousanders of the Alps, as it is the westernmost of them all and at the same time the only one in the Dauphiné.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How demanding is the Barre des Écrins?
This is a serious alpine tour with glacier sections and climbing passages on the West Ridge. Fitness for two long days and confident walking in crampons are essential. The technical difficulty is PD+, II, 40°.
Where do we stay overnight?
We stay at the Refuge des Écrins, the ideal base for the summit ascent. The hut sits high above the valley and considerably shortens the climb on summit day. This lets us set off early, straight onto the terrain of the Glacier Blanc.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for cold early mornings. Technical equipment can be rented for a small wear-and-tear fee.
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# BARRE DES ECRINS # NORMAL ROUTE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE