1864
4,102 m
Adolphus Warburton Moore, Horace Walker, Edward Whymper, Christian Almer, Michel Croz
BARRE DES ECRINS
West Ridge (PD+, II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.100,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A quiet, great four-thousander in the wild Dauphiné Alps – that is exactly what makes the Barre des Écrins so special.
4,102 m · Difficulty PD+, II, 40° · 2 days · Dauphiné Alps
The Barre des Écrins holds a special place among the four-thousanders. It is not only the westernmost, but at the same time also the southernmost four-thousander in the Alps. Despite this unique status, the entire Dauphiné Alps region tends to remain somewhat overlooked.
The French Alps are mostly associated with the Mont Blanc massif. Yet the “Karakorum of the Alps”, as the Dauphiné is often called, has an immense mountain world to offer. In fact, it is something of a blessing that this area does not receive nearly the attention it could: there are no crowds here like in many other heavily frequented parts of the Alps, and this wild landscape can still be experienced in its original character.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Barre des Écrins via the West Ridge is the normal route on this special four-thousander. Scenically, the ascent is magnificent, and the entire Dauphiné Alps range counts among the wildest areas in the whole Alps.
That its highest summit can be reached by a comparatively not very difficult normal route is almost a miracle. Even so, the tour demands a great deal from its climbers and must never be underestimated. In the north face, we must cross the heavily crevassed Glacier Blanc, and at the end there is ridge scrambling before we reach the highest point.
It is precisely this combination that gives the tour its appeal: a long hut approach, true high-alpine terrain, a striking ridge, and finally the view across the “Karakorum of the Alps”. The Barre des Écrins is no fashionable peak – and that is exactly part of its charm.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Refuge des Ecrins
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Dauphin
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Ailefroide - Refuge Cezanne
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good fitness for the 1,200 meters of ascent on summit day
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
1.800,- €
1.100,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ascent to the hut
We meet at Refuge Cézanne at 1,874 metres. This car park is reached in the valley beyond the village of Ailefroide by car. After a short gear check, we begin the ascent to the Refuge des Écrins. The path passes the Refuge du Glacier Blanc and continues through impressive high-alpine terrain to our base for the night. After around four hours, we reach the hut.
Walking time: 4 h | ↑ 1,300 m
⌂ Refuge des Écrins (3,175 m)
Day 2: Summit via the West Ridge
The next morning, breakfast is served early at the hut. Afterwards, we set off by headlamp into the breaking day. Across the Glacier Blanc, the terrain is initially gentler before it steepens on the flank north of the summit. Between crevasse zones, we climb up to the Brèche Lory below the Dôme de Neige. Here begins the West Ridge, the final section before the summit. Once at the top, we enjoy the view from the highest point of the Dauphiné and look down over this wildly broken mountain group. The descent follows the ascent route back to the car park at Refuge Cézanne.
↑ 950 m | ↓ 2,250 m | Difficulty: PD+, II, 40°
The story of the first ascent
The Barre des Écrins was also climbed during the "Golden Age of Alpinism" on June 25, 1864, by the renowned English alpinists Edward Whymper, Horace Walker, and Adolphus Warburton Moore, who often spent months traversing the Alps and making first ascents of the highest peaks. Together with the equally famous mountain guides Michel Croz and Christian Almer, who helped many English mountaineers complete their dream tours, they climbed the Barre des Écrins, which has now been replaced by the West Ridge as the normal route. The Barre des Écrins holds a special significance among the four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps, as it is the westernmost of all and the only one in the Dauphiné.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How demanding is the Barre des Écrins?
The tour is a serious high-alpine mountaineering tour with glacier sections and scrambling on the West Ridge. Fitness for two long days and confident movement in crampons are important. The technical difficulty is PD+, II, 40°.
Where do we stay overnight?
We stay at the Refuge des Écrins, the ideal base for the summit ascent. The hut lies high above the valley and significantly shortens the climb on summit day. This allows us to start early straight into the terrain on the Glacier Blanc.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for the cold early morning hours. Technical equipment can be hired for a small wear-and-tear fee.
