4000m Peaks
THE HIGHEST PEAKS OF THE ALPS
MY FIRST 4.000 m. PEAK
4,164 m
BREITHORN
Southwest flank (F+)
The Breithorn is generally considered the easiest four-thousand-meter peak in the Alps to climb. It lies on the border mountain on the main Alpine ridge, separating the Italian Aosta Valley from the Swiss canton of Valais. The area between the Breithorn and the Matterhorn is almost entirely accessible by cable cars, and it boasts the highest ski slope in Europe. This fact is precisely why the Breithorn attracts many climbs. Cable cars provide comfortable access up to the Klein Matterhorn at 3,796 meters. From there, you descend to the Breithorn Pass and climb the southwest slope to the highest point without any significant technical difficulties. Nevertheless, the Breithorn is a mountain that should not be underestimated. Above all, the panorama is overwhelming: some of the most beautiful and impressive peaks in the entire Alps are strung together here in an almost extravagant row.
4,061 m
GRAN PARADISO
Normal route (F+, II)
It is Italy's only four-thousand-meter peak located entirely within its own territory and the pride of the national park of the same name, from where almost the entire ibex population, which had been almost extinct in the rest of the Alps, was re-introduced. The Gran Paradiso is also one of the technically easiest four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps and an ideal introduction to the world of the highest Alpine peaks. The most difficult peaks are all located directly below the summit, where a small rock formation juts out of the ice. Here, after the ascent over the glacier, a short but very beautiful and appealing climbing section can be added. The icing on the cake. Overall, a scenically wonderful and very worthwhile tour to Italy's highest peak.
4,153 m
BISHORN
Nordwestflanke (F)
The Bishorn is nestled in the breathtaking mountain and glacier world of the Valais Alps. Prominent peaks such as the Matterhorn, the Monte Rosa massif, the Dom, the Zinalrothorn, the Dent Blanche, and, last but not least, the Weisshorn are in the immediate vicinity. From the summit of the latter, we'll even enjoy a very special view. Surrounded by these demanding and difficult alpine tours, the Bishorn represents a highly rewarding summit goal. It allows even less experienced alpinists to venture into the world of the 4,000-meter peaks and experience the unique feeling of being part of this mighty mountain world, gazing at its impressive ridges and flanks from eye level.
4,190 m
ALLALINHORN AND STRAHLHORN
Northwest Ridge (F+) and Northwest Flank (F+)
The Allalinhorn and the Strahlhorn are two four-thousand-meter peaks on the itinerary, both particularly impressive due to their impressive glacier landscapes and unique panoramic scenery. Vast expanses of ice with enormous crevasse systems provide a vivid impression of the forces at work in these landscapes and why they so captivate us mountaineers. On this tour, we will indeed be traveling almost exclusively on glaciated terrain, climbing two of the highest peaks in the Alps. Thanks to its moderate difficulty and the cable car, this tour is also ideal for beginners in mountaineering and anyone wanting to experience their first four-thousand-meter summit.
4,563 m
MONTE ROSA
Mini Spaghetti (PD)
A total of seven four-thousand-meter peaks in just three days, plus an overnight stay at the highest mountain hut in the Alps. This is only possible in the Monte Rosa massif, where one high peak follows the next. After a hopefully restful night at an altitude of 3,647 meters, we'll begin our summit collection on the second day. We'll visit Ludwigshöhe (4,343), Corno Nero (4,322), Parrotspitze (4,434), Balmenhorn (4,167), Vincentpyramide (4,215), Signalkuppe (4,554), and Zumstein (4,563) over the next two days. We have several options here and can adapt the entire tour to our individual fitness level. Proper acclimatization is very important beforehand! On this tour, we'll be constantly at very high altitudes and in a breathtaking glacial landscape. The overnight stays in the huts, at 3,647 and 4,554 meters, are also among the highest in the Alps.
4,017 m
WEISSMIES
Northwest flank (PD)
At 4,023 meters, the Weissmies is not only the highest but also the most imposing peak in the northeastern part of the Valais Alps. Despite its appearance, with its ice-clad northwest flank and rocky southern side, it offers a technically relatively easy ascent even for less experienced mountaineers. However, those who disregard the necessary safety precautions for glacier climbing run the risk of disappearing into one of the numerous and large crevasses that dot the extensive glacier surfaces. While there are no difficult climbing sections to master up to the summit, there are steep and crevasse-rich slopes. With the necessary know-how and the required safety measures, the Weissmies is an absolute highlight for beginners in the world of the four-thousand-meter peaks.
4,223 m
CASTOR UND POLLUX
Südostgrat (PD) und Südwestgrat (PD, II)
The twin peaks of Castor and Pollux are often climbed in combination. They lie between the Breithorn massif and the Liskamm on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Thanks to the cable car up to the Klein Matterhorn, the arduous climb from the valley is avoided and you can immerse yourself directly in this fascinating glacial world. Although the mountain station and the summit are only 700 meters apart, there is still a considerable distance to cover. Some challenging sections, combined with the high altitude and enormous crevasse zones, are good reasons for inexperienced mountaineers to enlist the expertise of a mountain guide. This allows you to approach the summit in a much more relaxed manner and enjoy the unique panorama within much more.
CHALLENGING 4000 m. PEAKS
4,563 m
SPAGHETTI RUNDE
Monte Rosa (PD)
The Spaghetti Circuit in the Monte Rosa Massif is one of the great classic alpine tours in the Alps. We will climb no fewer than 10 four-thousand-meter peaks over five days in the Monte Rosa Massif. The technical difficulties are not particularly great, but we will be constantly at high altitudes. Proper acclimatization is highly recommended in preparation for this tour. We will stay primarily in Italian huts—hence the name of this crossing. These huts, all of which are among the highest in the Alps, now offer considerably more in terms of cuisine. Overall, an unforgettable week of touring awaits us in a breathtaking world of ice, snow, and rock, in which we will be completely immersed.
4,274 m
FINSTERAARHORN
Northwest Ridge (PD-, II)
The shark fin that towers high above the Bernese Oberland: At 4,273 meters, the Finsteraarhorn is the highest peak in a unique glacial world. Apart from the crevasses on the seemingly endless expanse of ice surrounding the Finsteraarhorn, the ascent to the summit is relatively safe. An appealing and enjoyable ridge climb to the summit and an incredible glacial backdrop as far as the eye can see are the ingredients for an unforgettable summit destination. It's surprising that the summit is relatively unvisited in summer. This is probably due to the long approaches, which are not very popular in our fast-paced world. But that's exactly what such tours are for: escaping everyday life and enjoying nature for a few days and escaping the hustle and bustle of the valley. What could be more beautiful than daring this long climb and standing on one of the most exclusive peaks in the entire Alps?
4,158 m
MÖNCH UND JUNGFRAU
Southeast Ridge (PD, II) and Southwest Ridge (PD, II)
Of the world-famous trio of Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau, the Mönch, at 4,110 meters, is the peak with the least technical difficulty. If you take the convenient access via the Jungfrau Railway, you'll already be at 3,466 meters without having set foot. The remaining climb, with just over 600 meters of elevation gain, is a real challenge. After another overnight stay at the Mönchsjoch Hut, the Jungfrau is next on the agenda. This way, two Bernese four-thousand-meter peaks can be combined into a successful alpine tour with manageable technical difficulty.
4,545 m
DOM
Northwest flank (PD, II)
The Dom: the pride of the Swiss mountains. While it may not be the highest point in Switzerland, it is the highest peak located entirely on Swiss soil. It's actually surprising that there's a "relatively" moderate climb up this wildly glaciated peak, which is steep on all sides. To call it an easy four-thousand-meter peak would be an exaggeration. The mere fact that the entire climb is entirely self-sufficient makes it a true test of fitness. A wild, crevasse-filled glacier demands careful route selection. And reaching the summit is not possible without encountering rock. While the difficulty level is not particularly high and the flanks not overly steep, the overall challenge of this fantastic tour adds up to a serious and lengthy undertaking.
4,810 m
MONT BLANC
Normal route - Bossesgrat (PD. I)
Highest peak in the Alps. This title alone gives Mont Blanc a very special status for mountaineers and alpinists. The best top alpinists mingle here with the numerous recreational and hobby mountaineers. Added to this are the many cable car tourists who take the cable car up to almost four thousand meters to admire this enormous colossus of rock and ice up close. But it is even more beautiful to actually stand on the roof of the Alps: While the route does offer some technical challenges, it is easily masterable for well-acclimatized mountaineers with some high-altitude touring experience. I will take care of the rope-technical and safety-related challenges so that you can enjoy the ascent of the highest peak in the Alps and this tour becomes an unforgettable experience.
4,810 m
MONT BLANC
Pope´s Way - Italian Normal Route (PD. I)
Anyone who doesn't dream of standing on the highest peak in the Alps gets nightmares when they think of the crowds that attempt the summit every day via the French standard route. For all of those, there's two pieces of good news: The so-called "Pope's Way" via the Gonella Hut offers a very beautiful and worthwhile alternative on the Italian side of the mountain for reaching the top of the Alps. The fact that this variant is also the safest route to Mont Blanc in terms of objective dangers is often forgotten. Despite these two good arguments, there must be a catch, and that clearly lies in the physical demands placed on the mountaineers who choose this route, as well as the favorable conditions on the glacier.
4,102 m
BARRE DES ÉCRINS
West Ridge (PD+, II)
The Barre des Ecrins holds a special place in the list of four-thousand-meter peaks. It is not only the westernmost, but also the southernmost four-thousand-meter peak in the Alps. Despite this special status, the entire Dauphiné region leads a shadowy existence. The French Alps are largely associated with the Mont Blanc massif. But the Karakoram of the Alps, as the Dauphiné is often called, boasts a breathtaking mountain landscape. It's actually a blessing that this region doesn't receive nearly as much attention as it could: there aren't the crowds here like in many other heavily frequented areas of the Alps, and you can still experience this breathtaking mountain landscape in its original state and fully absorb the stunning landscape.
4,010 m
LAGGINHORN
South Ridge (AD, III)
The Lagginhorn is the slightly smaller neighbor of the Weissmies. Unlike the Weissmies, which boasts a wild glacial flank, the Lagginhorn is accessible with virtually no glacier contact. It is also considered one of the easier 4,000-meter peaks. The normal route via the west ridge leads to the summit via some easy climbing sections and a lot of boulder terrain. We will use this route for the descent. The route via the south ridge is much more rewarding for the ascent – one of the most beautiful and enjoyable rocky ridges in the Western Alps. Despite the generally low difficulty, the climbing is a dream; the rock is rock-solid, and the ambiance is absolutely magnificent. This route combination turns the easy Lagginhorn into a somewhat more difficult but all the more beautiful traverse and a dream ridge tour that everyone must do at least once.
DIFFICULT 4000 m. PEAKS
4,478 m
MATTERHORN
Hörnligrat (AD+. III)
The Matterhorn really needs no introduction. It is the epitome of a mountain. Almost everyone – mountaineer or not – knows what it is as soon as they see a picture of the Matterhorn. It's on every to-do list and the dream of every ambitious mountaineer: to stand at the very top and enjoy the unique joy of reaching the summit. But unfortunately, this very special status of this mountain doesn't only have advantages: It also holds the sad record for the most fatal accidents. The first ones happen on the day of the first ascent. Difficult route finding and brittle rock once you're no longer on the right path, coupled with the high alpinist demands, unfortunately prove to be the downfall of many rope teams who are overwhelmed by the tour. To prevent exactly that, and to ensure that this tour becomes the dream tour you imagined, we will ensure the necessary safety.
4,049 m
PIZ BERNINA
Biancograt (AD/III)
The easternmost and only four-thousand-meter peak in the Eastern Alps, and arguably the most beautiful snow ridge in the entire Alps. Piz Bernina boasts these superlatives, stealing the show from the surrounding mountains. The Biancograt is one of the most special tours in the Alps, one that no tour guide should be without. A challenging combined tour that covers the entire spectrum of mountaineering. As if that weren't enough, this tour not only traverses Piz Bernina, but also takes in another absolute dream mountain, Piz Palü.
4,221 m
ZINALROTHORN
Normal route (AD/III)
Das Zinalrothorn gilt als Kletterviertausender der Extraklasse. Auch wenn es auf dieser Tour gilt, kurze Gletscherfelder zu überqueren, findet man sich die meiste Zeit genussvoll dahinkletternd im Fels wieder. Die Felsqualität nimmt dabei deutlich zu, je höher man kommt. Spätestens ab der Gabel mit der anschließenden Schlüsselstelle an der "Binerplatte" sowie der Gratkletterei bis zum Gipfel findet in phantastischem Fels statt und macht unheimlich Spaß - auch, da sich die Schwierigkeiten in einem moderaten Bereich halten und den III. UIAA Grad nie überschreiten.
4,634 m
DUFOURSPITZE
West Ridge (AD-)
The Dufourspitze is the highest peak in the Monte Rosa massif and also the highest point in Switzerland. However, since the summit lies just a few meters from the national border and a large part of the massif lies on Italian territory, the Swiss often refer to the Dom as their highest mountain. Nevertheless, when you stand on the Dufourspitze, you are standing on the roof of Switzerland. But that's not the only superlative it can boast: After Mont Blanc, it is the second highest peak in the Alps. The entire Monte Rosa massif, however, is the most impressive in the entire Alps, surpassing even the Mont Blanc massif in terms of mass.
4,357 m
DENT BLANCHE
South ridge "Wandfluegrat" (AD. III)
"Shark's Tooth"—that's how one could describe the Dent Blanche in one word. Its striking and bold shape makes it a coveted summit goal. However, it is not easy to climb. Difficult ridges lead to the 4,357-meter-high summit throughout. Why this peak, consisting almost entirely of rock among many Valais ice peaks, was given the name "White Tooth" is probably due to a mistake a monk made long ago while copying a map. This theory is supported by the fact that the Dent d'Herens has considerably more white snowfields than the Dent Blanche. In the past, a completely different name was commonly used in the German-speaking region: "Steinbockhorn." However, this name did not catch on and is no longer used.
4,506 m
WEISSHORN
East Ridge (AD. III)
If elegance has a name in the mountains, then it would probably be the Weisshorn. For me, it is the most beautifully shaped peak in the Alps - a mountain like a child would draw. Three ridges lead to the summit, giving it the shape of a perfect pyramid. Wild walls, jagged glaciers, enormous seracs on its flanks, and all of this amidst a fantastic landscape surrounded by other dream mountains, make this Weisshorn so special. All the climbs are long, can be managed under one's own steam, and require ideal conditions and a fit and well-acclimatized alpinist who can seriously take on the challenge of an ascent. For this reason, only a few mountaineers are denied the opportunity to stand on this exclusive peak. I would be happy to help you fulfill this dream.
4,078 m
SCHRECKHORN
Southwest Ridge (AD+. III)
At 4,078 meters, the Schreckhorn is the highest peak in the Schreckhorn ridge and also the northernmost four-thousand-meter peak in the Alps. Located in the Aar Massif in the Bernese Oberland, it is composed of Erstfeld gneiss. It is an absolute dream destination for ambitious alpinists and mountaineers. All ascents of this beautifully formed mountain are challenging, and it is also considered the most difficult four-thousand-meter peak in the Bernese Oberland. The wonderful climbing on the normal route, considered one of the most beautiful in the entire Alps, as well as the unique summit experience and panorama should be reason enough to visit and climb this mountain. I would be happy to assist you with my expertise and experience, and together we will make this dream come true.
4,314 m
GRAND COMBIN
Meitingrat (AD, III)
Despite its considerable size and its mighty and imposing appearance, the Grand Combin is a relatively rarely climbed four-thousand-meter peak, and quite unfairly, it's not really on the agenda for many mountaineers. One more reason to visit this mountain massif covered in mighty ice sheets. For many, the view of the Grand Combin is one of the most beautiful in the entire Alps, perhaps precisely because it lacks the bold and slender forms of other mountains like the Matterhorn, but instead towers like an impregnable bastion high above almost everything around it.
4,221 m
ZINALROTHORN
North Ridge (AD, III)
If any mountain deserves the name "Horn," it is definitely the Zinalrothorn. Indeed, this bold and beautiful peak rises toward the sky like a soaring spire. Together with the other Horns, the Obergabelhorn, and the Weisshorn, it forms a striking and imposing triumvirate in the Valais Alps. This incredible panorama is rounded off by another, arguably the most famous horn of all: the Matterhorn. All of these are dream mountains, yet reserved for experienced alpinists and mountaineers. Mastery of rope techniques on rock and ice, experience in traversing crevasse-laden glaciers, and knowledge of alpine hazards are essential for safely and soundly climbing this dream mountain.
4,063 m
OBERGABELHORN
Arbengrat (AD, III+/45°)
The Arbengart on the Obergabelhorn can be considered one of the great classics in the Western Alps due to its impressive rock quality and exhilarating ridge climbing. When you enjoy the enjoyable lengths on the ridge in the morning sun, you'll understand why the ridge is so popular and undoubtedly belongs in every tour book as one of the absolute highlights. However, in addition to the enjoyable rock section, the summit of the Obergabelhorn also requires skilled crampon technique on the steep firn sections, as well as a long approach and the option of either spending the night in a bivouac and shortening the tour the next day, or opting for the comfort of the Schönbielhütte and a longer tour. Either way, with your arrival at the Rothornhütte, you will have completed a fantastic tour of the Western Alps that you won't soon forget.
4,634 m
SPAGHETTI ARRABBIATA
Monte Rosa (AD, III/45°)
Liskamm Traverse, Dufourspitze, Nordend, and Pollux – the bosses of the Monte Rosa massif in a slightly more challenging version of the Spaghetti Circuit. This traverse is undoubtedly one of the most famous high-altitude traverses in the entire Alps. While the classic circuit includes some wonderful peaks, the absolute highlights of the massif are often neglected. Time and again, the view wanders from the Naso up to the Liskamm and its wonderful firn traverse. From the summit of the Zumstein, one gazes enviously after the rope teams tackling the ridge further to the Dufourspitze, and alongside the Nordend, Pollux is also part of the "Arrabbiata" through the Monte Rosa massif. An unforgettable combination of summits for fit mountaineers who have already gained experience on other glacier tours.
