FOUR-THOUSANDERS
THE HIGHEST PEAKS OF THE ALPS
MY FIRST FOUR-THOUSANDER
Technically easy four-thousanders, perfect as an introduction to the highest summits of the Alps.
4,164 m
BREITHORN
South-west flank (F+)
The Breithorn is generally regarded as the easiest four-thousander in the Alps. It is a border peak on the main Alpine divide, separating Italy's Aosta Valley from the Swiss canton of Valais. The area between the Breithorn and the Matterhorn is almost entirely developed with cable cars and is promoted as having the highest ski slope in Europe. It is precisely this that accounts for the Breithorn's many ascents. Cable cars take you comfortably up to the Klein Matterhorn at 3,796 metres. From there, you descend to the Breithorn Pass and climb the south-west slope to the highest point without any significant technical difficulties. Nevertheless, the Breithorn is a mountain that should never be underestimated. Above all, the panorama is overwhelming: some of the most beautiful and impressive peaks in the entire Alps line up here in almost extravagant abundance.
4,061 m
GRAN PARADISO
Normal route (F+, II)
It is Italy’s only four-thousander that stands entirely on its own national territory, and the pride of the national park of the same name, from which almost the entire ibex population – which had been all but wiped out in the rest of the Alps – was reintroduced. The Gran Paradiso is also one of the technically easiest four-thousanders in the Alps and an ideal introduction to the world of the highest Alpine summits. The difficulties are all located directly below the summit, where a small rock outcrop rises out of the ice. Here, after the ascent over the glacier, a short but very beautiful and appealing bit of climbing is added. The cherry on top. All in all, a scenically wonderful and very rewarding tour to the highest summit in Italy.
4,153 m
BISHORN
Northwest Flank (F)
The Bishorn is nestled in the breathtaking world of mountains and glaciers of the Valais Alps. Prominent peaks such as the Matterhorn, the Monte Rosa massif, the Dom, the Zinalrothorn, the Dent Blanche and, last but not least, the Weisshorn are its immediate neighbours. From the summit we will even get a very special view of the latter. Surrounded by these demanding and difficult alpine tours, the Bishorn is a highly rewarding summit objective. It also allows less experienced alpinists to venture into the world of the four-thousanders and experience the unique feeling of being part of this mighty mountain world, gazing at its impressive ridges and flanks at eye level.
4,190 m
ALLALINHORN AND STRAHLHORN
Northwest Ridge (F+) and Northwest Flank (F+)
With the Allalinhorn and the Strahlhorn, two four-thousanders are on the programme, both of which win you over with an impressive world of glaciers and unique panoramic scenery. Huge expanses of ice with vast crevasse systems give a vivid impression of the forces at work in these landscapes and of why they cast such a spell on us mountaineers. On this tour we will in fact be moving almost exclusively on glaciated terrain while climbing two of the highest summits in the Alps. Thanks to its moderate difficulty and the help of the cable car, it is ideal for newcomers to alpine tours and for anyone who wants to get a first taste of four-thousand-metre air.
4,563 m
MONTE ROSA
Mini Spaghetti (PD)
Seven four-thousanders in just three days, plus a night in the highest mountain hut in the Alps. This is only possible in the Monte Rosa massif, where one high summit follows the next. After what we hope is a restful night at no less than 3,647 metres, we start our summit collection on the second day. Over the following two days we pay a visit to Ludwigshöhe (4,343), Corno Nero (4,322), Parrotspitze (4,434), Balmenhorn (4,167), Vincentpyramide (4,215), Signalkuppe (4,554) and Zumstein (4,563). There are various options here, and we can tailor the whole tour to our fitness on the day. Good acclimatisation beforehand is essential! On this tour we are constantly at very high altitude, moving through a breathtaking glacier landscape. At 3,647 and 4,554 metres, the overnight stays in the huts are also among the highest in the Alps.
4,017 m
WEISSMIES
South ridge (PD)
At 4,023 metres, the Weissmies is not only the highest but also the most imposing peak in the north-eastern part of the Valais Alps. Despite its appearance, with its ice-armoured north-west flank and rocky south side, it offers even less experienced mountaineers a technically relatively easy route to the summit. However, anyone who ignores the safety precautions needed for glacier travel runs the risk of disappearing into one of the many large crevasses found on its extensive glaciers. There are no difficult climbing sections on the way to the summit, but depending on the descent variant there are steep, heavily crevassed slopes. With the necessary know-how and the right safety measures, however, the Weissmies is an absolute highlight for newcomers to the world of the four-thousanders.
4,223 m
CASTOR AND POLLUX
South-east ridge (PD) and south-west ridge (PD, II)
The twin peaks of Castor and Pollux are often climbed together. They lie between the Breithorn massif and the Liskamm on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Thanks to the cable car up to the Klein Matterhorn, you are spared the strenuous ascent from the valley and can dive straight into this fascinating glacial world. Although only 700 vertical metres separate the top station from the summit, there is still quite a distance to cover. Several demanding sections, combined with the high altitude and huge crevasse zones, are good reasons for inexperienced mountaineers to trust in the expertise of a mountain guide. That way you can look forward to the summit far more calmly and enjoy the unique panorama around you much more.
DEMANDING 4,000ERS
Challenging four-thousanders for mountaineers who already have some experience on high peaks and glaciers.
4,563 m
SPAGHETTI TOUR
Monte Rosa (PD)
The Spaghetti Tour in the Monte Rosa massif is one of the truly great classic alpine tours in the Alps. Over 5 days of touring we will climb no fewer than 10 four-thousanders in the Monte Rosa massif. The technical difficulties are not that high, but we will be moving at high altitude the whole time. Good acclimatisation is strongly recommended as preparation for the tour. We will mainly stay in Italian huts - which is where the name of this traverse comes from. These days, however, the huts, all of which are among the highest in the Alps, have a great deal more to offer in culinary terms. All in all, an unforgettable week of touring awaits us in a breathtaking world of ice, snow and rock in which we will be completely immersed.
4,274 m
FINSTERAARHORN
Northwest ridge (PD-, II)
The shark fin towering high above the Bernese Oberland: at 4,273 metres, the Finsteraarhorn is the highest point of a unique glacial world. Apart from the crevasses on the seemingly endless ice fields around the Finsteraarhorn, the ascent to the summit is comparatively safe. An appealing, enjoyable ridge climb to the summit and an incredible glacial backdrop as far as the eye can see are the ingredients of an unforgettable summit objective. It is surprising that the summit sees relatively few visitors in summer. This is probably due to the long approaches, which are not very popular in our fast-paced world. But that is exactly what such tours are for: escaping everyday life, enjoying nature for a few days and leaving the hustle and bustle of the valley behind. So what could be better than taking on this long ascent and standing on one of the most exclusive summits in the entire Alps?
4,158 m
MÖNCH AND JUNGFRAU
South-east ridge (PD, II) and south-west ridge (PD, II)
Of the world-famous trio of Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, the 4,110-metre Mönch is the summit with comparatively the fewest technical difficulties. If you treat yourself to the comfortable approach by the Jungfrau Railway, you are already standing at 3,466 metres without having taken a single step on foot. The remaining tour of just over 600 metres of ascent, however, still packs a punch. After another night at the Mönchsjoch Hut, the Jungfrau is next on the programme. This way, two Bernese four-thousanders can be combined into a rewarding alpine tour with manageable technical difficulties.
4,545 m
DOM
Northwest flank (PD, II)
The Dom: the pride of the Swiss mountains. It is not the highest point in Switzerland, but it is the highest summit standing entirely on Swiss soil. It is actually surprising that this wildly glaciated peak, forbidding on all sides, has a “relatively” moderate ascent route. Calling it an easy four-thousander, however, would be going too far. The mere fact that the entire ascent has to be done under your own steam makes it a real test of stamina. A wild, heavily crevassed glacier demands good route-finding. Nor is the summit reached without contact with rock. Although the technical difficulties are not that high and the flanks not excessively steep, the overall demands of this fantastic tour add up to a serious and long undertaking.
4,810 m
MONT BLANC
Normal route - Bossesgrat (PD. I)
The highest summit in the Alps. This title alone gives Mont Blanc a very special status among mountaineers and alpinists. Top alpinists mingle here with countless recreational climbers and amateur mountaineers. On top of that come the many cable car tourists who let the lift carry them comfortably up to almost four thousand metres to see this mighty colossus of rock and ice up close. But it is far more beautiful to actually stand on the roof of the Alps: although the route has a few technical challenges, overall it is perfectly manageable for well-acclimatised mountaineers with some high-alpine experience. I will take care of the rope work and the safety-related challenges, so that you can enjoy climbing the highest summit in the Alps and this tour becomes an unforgettable experience.
4,810 m
MONT BLANC
Papstweg - Italian normal route (PD. I)
Who doesn't dream of standing on the highest summit in the Alps one day – yet gets nightmares thinking about the crowds attempting the summit every day via the French normal route? For all of you, there are two pieces of good news: the so-called "Pope's Route" via the Gonella Hut is a very beautiful and rewarding alternative on the Italian side of the mountain for reaching the roof of the Alps. And it is often forgotten that, in terms of objective dangers, this variant is also the safest route up Mont Blanc. With two such good arguments there has to be a catch – and it clearly lies in the physical demands on the mountaineers who choose this route, as well as in the need for the right conditions on the glacier.
4,102 m
BARRE DES ÉCRINS
West Ridge (PD+, II)
The Barre des Ecrins plays a special role in the list of four-thousanders. It is not only the westernmost but also the southernmost four-thousander in the Alps. Despite this special status, the entire Dauphiné region remains in the shadows. The French Alps are mostly associated with the Mont Blanc Massif. Yet the Karakoram of the Alps, as the Dauphiné is often called, offers a breathtaking mountain world. In fact, it is a blessing that this area gets nowhere near the attention it could: there are no crowds here like in so many other busy parts of the Alps, and you can still experience this breathtaking mountain world in its original state and fully soak up the stunning landscape.
4,010 m
LAGGINHORN
South ridge (AD, III)
The Lagginhorn is the slightly smaller neighbour of the Weissmies. Unlike the Weissmies, which boasts a wild glaciated flank, the Lagginhorn can be reached with practically no glacier contact. It is also considered one of the easier four-thousanders. The normal route via the west ridge leads to the summit over a few easy climbing passages and a lot of blocky terrain. We will use this route for the descent. Far more rewarding for the ascent is the route via the south ridge – one of the most beautiful and enjoyable rock ridges in the Western Alps. Despite the mostly modest difficulty, the climbing is a dream, the rock is bombproof and the setting is absolutely magnificent. This combination of routes turns the easy Lagginhorn into a somewhat more difficult but all the more beautiful traverse and a dream ridge tour that you simply have to do once.
DIFFICULT 4,000ers
Difficult tours on demanding and exposed or very long and strenuous summits of the Alps. For mountaineers who already bring a fair amount of mountaineering experience.
4,478 m
MATTERHORN
Hörnligrat (AD+. III)
The Matterhorn really needs no introduction. It is the epitome of a mountain. Almost everyone – mountaineer or not - knows which mountain it is as soon as they see a picture of the Matterhorn. It is on every to-do list, and it is the dream of every ambitious mountaineer to stand on the very top just once and savour that unique summit feeling. Sadly, though, this mountain's very special status does not only bring advantages: it also holds the sad record for the most fatal accidents. The first ones happened on the very day of the first ascent. Difficult route-finding and loose rock as soon as you stray from the right line, combined with high alpine demands, sadly prove fatal for many rope teams who are out of their depth on this tour. To prevent exactly that and to make this tour the dream tour you have imagined, I will make sure you have the necessary safety.
4,049 m
PIZ BERNINA
Biancograt (AD/III)
The easternmost and only four-thousander in the Eastern Alps, and probably the most beautiful firn ridge in the entire Alps. These are the superlatives Piz Bernina can boast, stealing the show from the surrounding mountains. The Biancograt is one of the truly special tours in the Alps that should be in every mountaineer's tick list. A demanding mixed tour that covers the full spectrum of alpinism. As if that were not enough, this tour not only traverses Piz Bernina but also another absolute dream mountain: Piz Palü.
4,221 m
ZINALROTHORN
Normal route (AD/III)
The Zinalrothorn is regarded as a first-class four-thousander for climbers. Although this tour involves crossing short glacier sections, you spend most of the time happily climbing on rock. The rock quality improves noticeably the higher you go. From the notch at the latest, with the subsequent crux on the "Binerplatte" and the ridge climbing to the summit, everything takes place on fantastic rock and is tremendous fun - not least because the difficulties stay within a moderate range and never exceed UIAA grade III.
4,634 m
DUFOURSPITZE
West ridge (AD-)
The Dufourspitze is the highest summit of the Monte Rosa massif and also the highest point in Switzerland. However, as the summit lies just a few metres from the national border and a large part of the massif is on Italian territory, the Swiss often name the Dom as their highest mountain. Nevertheless, standing on the Dufourspitze means standing on the roof of Switzerland. And that is not the only superlative it can boast: after Mont Blanc, it is the second-highest peak in the Alps. The Monte Rosa massif as a whole, however, is the most massive in the entire Alps, even surpassing the Mont Blanc massif in terms of sheer bulk.
4,357 m
DENT BLANCHE
South ridge "Wandfluegrat" (AD. III)
The shark tooth – that is how you could describe the Dent Blanche in a word. Its striking, bold shape makes it a coveted summit objective. But it is not easy to climb: consistently difficult ridges lead to the 4,357-metre summit. Why, of all peaks, this one – consisting almost entirely of rock amid the many icy summits of the Valais – was given the name "white tooth" is probably down to a mix-up made by a monk long ago while copying a map. This theory is supported by the fact that the Dent d´Herens has far more white firn fields than the Dent Blanche. In the past, a completely different name was in common use in the German-speaking world: "Steinbockhorn". However, it never caught on and is no longer used.
4,506 m
WEISSHORN
East Ridge (AD. III)
If elegance in the mountains has a name, it would probably be Weisshorn. For me, it is the most beautifully shaped summit in the Alps - a mountain just as a child would draw it. Three ridges lead to the summit and give it the shape of a perfect pyramid. Wild faces, crevassed glaciers, huge seracs on its flanks, all set in a fantastic landscape surrounded by other dream mountains - this is what makes the Weisshorn so special. Every route up is long, has to be climbed under your own steam and demands perfect conditions and a fit, well-acclimatised alpinist who can seriously take on the challenge of an ascent. That is why only a few mountaineers ever get to stand on this exclusive summit. I would be glad to help you make this dream come true.
4,078 m
SCHRECKHORN
Southwest Ridge (AD+. III)
At 4,078 metres, the Schreckhorn is the highest point of the Schreckhorn ridge and also the northernmost four-thousander in the Alps. It lies in the Aar Massif in the Bernese Oberland and is made of Erstfeld gneiss. It is an absolute dream objective for ambitious alpinists and mountaineers. Every route up this shapely mountain is demanding, and it is considered the most difficult four-thousander in the Bernese Oberland. The wonderful climbing on the normal route, regarded as one of the finest in the entire Alps, together with a unique summit experience and panorama, should be reason enough to pay this mountain a visit and climb it. I will gladly support you with my expertise and experience, and together we will make this dream come true.
4,314 m
GRAND COMBIN
Meitingrat (AD, III)
Despite its considerable size and its mighty, imposing appearance, the Grand Combin is a four-thousander that is climbed relatively rarely and that, quite undeservedly, is not really on many mountaineers’ agenda. All the more reason to visit this massif, clad in mighty armour of ice. For many, the sight of the Grand Combin is even one of the most beautiful in the entire Alps – perhaps precisely because it lacks the bold, slender forms of other mountains such as the Matterhorn, and instead towers like an impregnable bastion high above almost everything around it.
4,221 m
ZINALROTHORN
North Ridge (AD, III)
If any mountain deserves the name "Horn", it is definitely the Zinalrothorn. This bold and beautiful peak really does soar towards the sky like a sharp spire. Together with the other horns, the Obergabelhorn and the Weisshorn, it forms a striking and imposing trio in the Valais Alps. This incredible panorama is rounded off by another horn, probably the most famous of them all: the Matterhorn. All of them are dream mountains, but they are reserved for experienced alpinists and mountaineers. Mastery of rope techniques on rock and ice, experience in crossing heavily crevassed glaciers and knowledge of alpine hazards are essential to climb this dream mountain safely and soundly.
4,063 m
OBERGABELHORN
Arbengrat (AD, III+/45°)
Thanks to its superb rock and exhilarating ridge climbing, the Arbengrat on the Obergabelhorn ranks among the truly great classics of the Western Alps. At the latest when you are savouring the glorious pitches on the ridge in the morning sun, you will understand why the ridge is so popular, why it unquestionably belongs in every tour book and why it counts among the absolute highlights there. But besides the enjoyable rock section, the summit of the Obergabelhorn also demands skilled crampon technique on the steep firn passages, as well as a long approach and the choice of either spending the night in a bivouac and shortening the tour the next day, or opting for the comfort of the Schönbielhütte and accepting a longer tour. Either way, when you arrive at the Rothornhütte you will have completed a dream Western Alps tour that you will not forget in a hurry.
4,634 m
SPAGHETTI ARRABBIATA
Monte Rosa (AD, III/45°)
Lyskamm traverse, Dufourspitze, Nordend and Pollux – the big bosses of the Monte Rosa massif in a somewhat spicier version of the Spaghetti Tour. This traverse is undisputedly one of the best-known high-alpine traverses in the entire Alps. While the classic circuit already takes in some wonderful summits, the absolute highlights of the massif get short shrift. Time and again your gaze wanders from the Naso up to the Lyskamm and its wonderful firn traverse. From the summit of the Zumstein you enviously watch the rope teams who tackle the ridge onwards to the Dufourspitze – and on the "Arrabbiata" through the Monte Rosa massif, Pollux is part of the programme alongside the Nordend. An unforgettable combination of summits for fit alpinists who have already gained experience on other glacier tours.
