1855
4,634 m
Charles Hudson, John Birkbeck, Edward J.W. Stephenson, Christopher and James G. Smyth
DUFOURSPITZE
West Ridge (AD-)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.100,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
On the Dufourspitze, you truly stand on the roof of Switzerland – right in the middle of one of the great Alpine stories.
2 days · Difficulty AD-
The Dufourspitze is the highest summit of the Monte Rosa massif and at the same time the highest point in Switzerland. However, since the summit lies only a few metres from the national border and a large part of the massif is on Italian territory, the Swiss often refer to the Dom as their highest mountain. Nevertheless, on the Dufourspitze you are standing on the roof of Switzerland.
But that is not the only superlative it can offer: after Mont Blanc, it is the second-highest peak in the Alps. The entire Monte Rosa massif is also the mightiest in all the Alps and even surpasses the Mont Blanc massif in sheer mass.
In the past, the summit was still called Gornerhorn, including at the time of its first ascent in 1855. It received its current name, Dufourspitze, from the Swiss general Guillaume-Henri Dufour, who earned distinction as the publisher of Switzerland’s first national map series. The “Dufour Map” was honoured worldwide, including at the World Exposition in Paris in 1855. The new name of Gornerhorn still commemorates the cartographer today, who, incidentally, was also involved in co-founding the International Committee of the Red Cross.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Dufourspitze via the Normalweg is the classic route and essentially follows in the footsteps of the first ascensionists. From Zermatt, the first day initially leads to the Monte Rosa Hut, which in itself is a remarkable base in the midst of a glacier world.
On the second day, the route climbs over the Rosagletscher up to the Sattele. There, the exposed Westgrat begins, making this ascent distinctly more demanding than many other famous four-thousand-metre peaks. Yet it is precisely this final section that gives the tour its character: first glacier, then rock, then summit.
Well secured on your mountain guide’s rope, the ridge becomes an enjoyable climb, and we safely reach the highest point in Switzerland. The panorama from the summit is immense – with views far across the Valais Alps and deep down into the glacier basins of the Monte Rosa massif. A great alpine tour, without question, and that is exactly why it stays with you for so long.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Return ticket for the Gornergratbahn cable car to Rotenboden
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Monte Rosa Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, cable car)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Monte Rosa Massif
Best time of year:
Mid-July - mid-September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Zermatt - Gornergratbahn valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Confident walking with crampons and ice axe
- Climbing up to difficulty level III
Requirements for enjoyment
- Excellent fitness for the summit climb, which has an elevation gain of 1,800 meters at a very high altitude
- Plus a further 400 meters of ascent back to the cable car – also on summit day
- Proper acclimatization is essential
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
1.800,- €
1.100,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Zermatt at the valley station of the Gornergratbahn, where we get a ticket to Rotenboden station. After that, we head up straight away with magnificent panoramic views. From the station, the Panorama Trail, newly laid out in 2019, leads us in around three hours to the Monte Rosa Hut. There we round off the afternoon in a relaxed way and save our strength for summit day.
Walking time: 3.5 h | ↑ 550 m | ↓ 450 m | Difficulty: easy
⌂ Monte Rosa Hut
Day 2: Summit day on the Dufourspitze
The next morning begins early with breakfast at the hut. We then set off by headlamp towards the Rosagletscher. First we cross the rocky terrain above the hut, left behind by the retreating glaciers. After that, we reach the glacier, where an exciting system of crevasses awaits us. We continue across the broad icefields up to the Sattele. Here begins the final climbing on the Westgrat to the summit of the Dufourspitze.
At the top, the highest point on Swiss soil awaits us, with views of the entire mountain elite of the Valais. Once we have taken in this scenery to our hearts’ content, we return along the ascent route to the col and, passing the Monte Rosa Hut, tackle the strenuous re-ascent back to Rotenboden station. From there, the train carries us, tired but overjoyed, back down into the valley. All in all, on this summit day we will have climbed a proud 2,200 vertical metres. A tour that can truly only be recommended to mountaineers with very strong fitness – but for them, a real highlight in any climbing logbook.
Total time: 14 h | ↑ 2,200 m | ↓ 2,300 m | Difficulty: AD-
Info: We recommend a second night at the Monte Rosa hut to split this long day and descent back to Zermatt.
The story of the first ascent
After several attempts in the years before 1855 to climb the highest point in the German-speaking Alps and the highest point in Switzerland, which reached within 100 meters of the summit as the crow flies, it was a rope party led by Charles Hudson who finally reached the summit on August 1, 1855. Hudson would also be one of the first climbers of the Matterhorn 10 years later, but he suffered a fatal accident on the descent. Unlike previous attempts, the five-person rope party did not choose the route via the Silver Saddle, but instead ascended the now-common route from the saddle to the west ridge to the summit. In a sense, the ascent of the Dufourspitze represents the beginning of an era in which peaks were no longer climbed solely for scientific interest, but also for athletic pursuits and personal ambition. The "golden age of mountaineering" was now to begin.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How demanding is the Dufourspitze via the Westgrat?
The tour is a long and demanding alpine tour with a difficulty of AD-. You should bring very good fitness, sure-footedness, and solid climbing experience. Summit day in particular is long, and the Westgrat requires concentration right to the very end.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
As a rule, we stay overnight at the Monte Rosa Hut. It is the ideal base for the ascent of the Dufourspitze and is perfectly located for the early start the following morning.
What equipment do I need?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and warm clothing for the early start. Technical equipment can be rented for a small wear-and-tear fee.
