1855
4,634 m
Charles Hudson, John Birkbeck, Edward J.W. Stephenson, Christopher and James G. Smyth
DUFOURSPITZE
West Ridge (AD-)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.100,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Dufourspitze is the highest peak in the Monte Rosa massif and also the highest point in Switzerland. However, since the summit lies only a few meters from the border and a large part of the massif lies on Italian territory, the Swiss often refer to the Dom as their highest mountain. Nevertheless, when you stand on the Dufourspitze, you are standing on the roof of Switzerland. But that is not the only superlative it can boast: after Mont Blanc, it is the second highest peak in the Alps. The entire Monte Rosa massif is also the most impressive in the entire Alps, surpassing even the Mont Blanc massif in terms of mass. The peak was formerly known as the Gornerhorn, even at the time of its first ascent in 1855. It gets its current name, Dufourspitze, from the Swiss general Guillaume-Henri Dufour, who was famously known as the publisher of the first map of Switzerland. The "Dufour Map" was honored worldwide, including at the World Exhibition in Paris in 1855. The new name of the Gornerhorn still commemorates the cartographer, who, incidentally, was also involved in the founding of the International Committee of the Red Cross.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Dufourspitze - Normal Route: The classic route, which also follows in the footsteps of the first climbers, leads from Zermatt to the Monte Rosa Hut on the first day. On the second day, the climb continues across the Rosa Glacier to the saddle at 4,359 meters. This is where the exposed west ridge begins, which, due to its difficulty, makes climbing the Dufourspitze more challenging than, say, Mont Blanc. However, well secured by your mountain guide's rope, the ridge becomes a pleasure, and we safely reach the summit: The reward here is a panorama unparalleled anywhere in the world.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Return ticket for the Gornergratbahn cable car to Rotenboden
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Monte Rosa Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, cable car)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Monte Rosa Massif
Best time of year:
Mid-July - mid-September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Zermatt - Gornergratbahn valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Confident walking with crampons and ice axe
- Climbing up to difficulty level III
Requirements for enjoyment
- Excellent fitness for the summit climb, which has an elevation gain of 1,800 meters at a very high altitude
- Plus a further 400 meters of ascent back to the cable car – also on summit day
- Proper acclimatization is essential
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Monte Rosa Hut Access
We meet in Zermatt, at the valley station of the Gornergrat Railway, where we'll purchase a ticket for the train to the Rotenboden station at 2,815 meters. Afterwards, we'll ascend by train, enjoying a magnificent and impressive panorama. From the station, we'll take the "Panorama Trail," newly constructed in 2019, to the hut in about three hours. Here, we'll enjoy a leisurely afternoon and conserve our energy for the summit day.
Day 2: Ascent of Dufourspitze
The next morning, we'll start early with breakfast at the hut. Afterwards, we'll set off toward the Rosa Glacier, illuminated by our headlamps. First, we'll walk through the rocky landscape above the hut, left behind by the retreating glaciers. We'll then reach the Rosa Glacier, where we'll cross an exciting system of crevasses. We'll continue across the impressive ice surfaces to the Sattele. Here begins the final climb over the western ridge to the summit. At the top, an unparalleled panorama awaits us, from the highest point on Swiss soil down to the entire Valais mountain range. Once we've had our fill of this impressive backdrop, we follow the ascent route back to the saddle, past the Monte Rosa Hut, and then continue with a strenuous climb back to the Rotenboden station, from where the cable car takes us back down to the valley, tired but overjoyed. In total, we've covered 2,200 meters of elevation on this summit day. A tour that's truly only recommended for very fit mountaineers – but then it's an unforgettable experience and an absolute highlight in any tour guide.
The story of the first ascent
After several attempts in the years before 1855 to climb the highest point in the German-speaking Alps and the highest point in Switzerland, which reached within 100 meters of the summit as the crow flies, it was a rope party led by Charles Hudson who finally reached the summit on August 1, 1855. Hudson would also be one of the first climbers of the Matterhorn 10 years later, but he suffered a fatal accident on the descent. Unlike previous attempts, the five-person rope party did not choose the route via the Silver Saddle, but instead ascended the now-common route from the saddle to the west ridge to the summit. In a sense, the ascent of the Dufourspitze represents the beginning of an era in which peaks were no longer climbed solely for scientific interest, but also for athletic pursuits and personal ambition. The "golden age of mountaineering" was now to begin.
