1862
4,357 m
Jean Baptiste Croz, Johann Kronig, Thomas Stuart Kennedy, William Wigram
DENT BLANCHE
South ridge "Wandfluegrat" (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.800,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
"The Shark's Tooth": That's the best way to describe the Dent Blanche in one word. Its striking and bold shape makes it a coveted summit destination. However, it's not exactly easy to climb. Challenging ridges lead to the 4,357-meter summit. Why this peak, consisting almost entirely of rock, among many Valais peaks of snow and ice, was given the name "White Tooth" is supposedly due to a confusion with the Dent d'Herens, which a monk made while copying a map long ago. This theory is supported by the fact that the Dent d'Herens also has significantly more white snowfields than the Dent Blanche. In the past, a completely different name for this peak was used in German-speaking countries: "Steinbockhorn." However, this name didn't catch on and is no longer used.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Dent Blanche - Normal Route (South Ridge): From the summit of the Dent Blanche, four ridges run in each of the four cardinal directions. The South Ridge is the one that is not quite as steep and gradually tapers off to the Wandflue ridge. This is why Croz and Kronig, with their guests Kennedy and Wigram, chose this ridge on July 18, 1862, to successfully complete their attempt at the first ascent. And they were proven right; the Wandflue ridge turned out to be the easiest ascent and thus the normal route for the coveted ascent of this beautifully shaped peak. Despite being called the Normal Route, this climb should not be underestimated and is only recommended for well-acclimatised alpinists with sufficient mountaineering experience. The approach to the Dent Blanche Hut is long and must be completed entirely under your own steam. There is no cable car to shorten the approach. The ridge the following day also has climbing sections up to grade III. degrees and some exposed passages, it has a lot to offer and challenges all those who attempt this summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Dent Blanche Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Walliser Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Ferpècle - head of the Val d’Hérens
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe walking with crampons and ice axe on steep firn and safe climbing with crampons on rock
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good physical condition and sufficient acclimatization before the tour
- No fear of heights
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the Dent Blanche Hut
We meet at the head of the Val d'Hérens valley near Ferpècle, in the Val d'Hérens side valley of the same name. There's a parking lot at the starting point, where we'll sort and check our gear and then begin the long, yet scenic, approach to the Dent Blanche Hut. After a good six hours of ascent, we've already climbed more than 1,600 meters up the Dent Blanche. We'll settle in at the hut and conserve our energy for another strenuous day at the summit.
Day 2: Summit of the Dent Blanche
Early in the morning, we'll enjoy breakfast at the hut and then begin our ascent. By the light of our headlamps, we'll climb over mixed terrain (first, we'll negotiate a rocky section to warm up before continuing on snowfields) to the Wandfluelücke. The ridge that begins here offers the best gneiss, which we climb up. We repeatedly cross icy snowfields and climb several ridge towers. We approach the summit in a short, breathtaking atmosphere. After a final snowfield ridge, we finally reach the highest point of the Dent Blanche and enjoy a wonderful panorama. The subsequent descent follows the ascent route and is quite long.
Tip: Upon request, I would be happy to reserve another night for you at the Dent Blanche Hut, allowing you to split the long descent into two days at a much more leisurely pace. I would accompany you on the descent to the hut on the summit day, and after we have toasted a successful tour, I would continue my descent to the valley below. This way, you can end the day at the hut in a relaxed atmosphere amidst magnificent scenery and enjoy the tour even more.
The story of the first ascent
The summit of the Dent Blanche was first climbed in 1862 via what is still the easiest ascent today—and therefore also the usual normal route via the south ridge, also known as the Wandflue ridge. The two mountain guides, Jean Baptiste Croz and Johann Kronig, led the two British guests, Thomas Stuart Kennedy and William Wigram, to the 4,356-meter-high summit on July 18. The remaining ridges were then climbed a few years later, with the east ridge ("Viereselsgrat") in 1882 and the technically even more challenging west ridge ("Ferpéclegrat") in 1889. The first ascent of the north face, which is still considered one of the wildest adventures in Valais, was not achieved until 1966.
