1862
4,357 m
Jean Baptiste Croz, Johann Kronig, Thomas Stuart Kennedy, William Wigram
DENT BLANCHE
South ridge "Wandfluegrat" (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.800,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A bold rock fang above the Valais – striking, wilful, and as an alpine tour anything but a giveaway.
4,357 m · Difficulty AD, III · 2 days · Valais Alps
“The shark tooth”: that is probably the best one-word description of the Dent Blanche. Its striking and daring shape makes it a coveted summit objective. Yet it is by no means easy to climb. Consistently challenging ridges lead to the 4,357-metre summit.
Why this summit, made almost entirely of rock, received the name “white tooth” amidst the many snow- and ice-covered Valais peaks is said to stem from a mix-up with the Dent d’Hérens, made by a monk long ago while copying a map. This theory is supported by the fact that the Dent d’Hérens also has far more white firnfields than the Dent Blanche.
In earlier times, a completely different name was used for this summit in German-speaking regions: “Steinbockhorn”. However, this name never became established and is no longer used.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Dent Blanche – normal route via the Wandfluegrat: From the summit of the Dent Blanche, four ridges run exactly toward each of the four cardinal directions. The south ridge is the one that is somewhat less steep and gradually merges into the ridge of the Wandflue.
That is why Croz and Kronig, together with their clients Kennedy and Wigram, chose this ridge on 18 July 1862 in order to succeed in their first-ascent attempt. And they were right: the Wandfluegrat proved to be the easiest line of ascent and thus became the normal route for the sought-after climb of this beautifully shaped summit.
Despite the label of normal route, however, this ascent should by no means be underestimated and is reserved for well-acclimatised alpinists with sufficient alpine experience. The approach to the Cabane de la Dent Blanche alone is long and must be completed entirely under your own power. There is no cable car here to shorten the approach. The ridge on the following day also has plenty to offer, with climbing sections up to grade III as well as several exposed passages, and it demands a lot from anyone attempting this summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Dent Blanche Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Walliser Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Ferpècle - head of the Val d’Hérens
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe walking with crampons and ice axe on steep firn and safe climbing with crampons on rock
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good physical condition and sufficient acclimatization before the tour
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
1.800,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet at the end of the valley in Val d’Hérens near Ferpècle in the side valley of the same name. There is a car park here at the starting point, where we sort and check our gear before setting off on the long but scenically impressive approach to the Dent Blanche Hut. After a good 6 hours of ascent, we will already have gained more than 1,600 vertical metres on the Dent Blanche. At the hut we make ourselves comfortable and conserve our strength for another demanding summit day.
Walking time: 6 h | ↑ 1,700 m
⌂ Dent Blanche Hut
Day 2: Dent Blanche summit
Early in the morning we enjoy breakfast at the hut and then begin the ascent. By the light of our headtorches, we climb through mixed terrain up to the Wandfluelücke: first a rocky section to warm up, then firnfields. The Wandfluegrat, which begins here, offers excellent gneiss for climbing upward. Time and again, icy firnfields must be crossed, along with a few ridge towers that have to be climbed over. Varied and set amidst magnificent high-alpine scenery, we draw ever closer to the summit. After a final firn ridge, we finally stand on the highest point of the Dent Blanche and enjoy the panorama. The descent then follows the ascent route and once again feels properly long.
Total time: 12.5 h | ↑ 850 m | ↓ 2,550 m | Difficulty: AD, III
Info: On request, I would be happy to reserve an additional night at the Dent Blanche Hut for you, allowing the long descent to be split much more comfortably over two days. On summit day, I would accompany you on the descent back to the hut and, after a toast to the successful tour, continue my own descent into the valley. That way, you can end the day at the hut in a relaxed manner and enjoy the tour even more.
The story of the first ascent
The summit of the Dent Blanche was first climbed in 1862 via what is still the easiest ascent today—and therefore also the usual normal route via the south ridge, also known as the Wandflue ridge. The two mountain guides, Jean Baptiste Croz and Johann Kronig, led the two British guests, Thomas Stuart Kennedy and William Wigram, to the 4,356-meter-high summit on July 18. The remaining ridges were then climbed a few years later, with the east ridge ("Viereselsgrat") in 1882 and the technically even more challenging west ridge ("Ferpéclegrat") in 1889. The first ascent of the north face, which is still considered one of the wildest adventures in Valais, was not achieved until 1966.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How demanding is Dent Blanche via the normal route?
The Dent Blanche is a serious alpine tour. The normal route via the Wandfluegrat is graded AD, III and requires stamina, sure-footedness, a head for heights, and solid alpine experience.
Can the long descent be split up?
Yes, that is easily possible on request. An additional night at the Dent Blanche Hut can gladly be reserved. This makes the descent much more relaxed and allows the tour to be organised at a more leisurely pace.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and warm clothing. Technical equipment can be rented from the mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
