Four-thousanders
OBERGABELHORN
Arbengrat (AD,III+)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
3 days
Obergabelhorn – Arbengrat
A Western Alps classic: via the Arbengrat to the Obergabelhorn and, after a long, beautiful traverse, across to the Rothornhütte.
3 days · Difficulty AD, III+ · Valais Alps
Obergabelhorn - Arbengrat: Thanks to its impressive rock quality and exhilarating ridge climbing, the Arbengrat on the Obergabelhorn counts as one of the truly great classics of the Western Alps. At the very latest when you are savouring the superb pitches on the ridge in the morning sun, you understand why it is so popular and unquestionably belongs in every tick list, where it ranks among the absolute highlights.
But besides the enjoyable rock section, the summit of the Obergabelhorn also demands skilled crampon technique on the steep firn passages, as well as a long approach and a choice: either spend the night in a bivouac and shorten the tour somewhat the next day, or fall back on the comfort of the Schönbielhütte and accept a longer tour in return.
Either way, arriving at the Rothornhütte means you have completed a magnificent Western Alps tour that you will not soon forget.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- All organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- 1 night in the Arbenbiwak
(or optionally in the Schönbielhütte with half board)
- 1 night in the Rothornhütte with half board
- 1 cable car ticket (Zermatt - Schwarzsee - optional)
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Valais Alps
Best time of year:
Mid-June - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Zermatt - railway station
Requirements
Requirements:
'- Sure-footedness
- Confident walking in crampons
- Climbing at grade III (UIAA)
- Very good fitness
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends on factors such as duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, dates, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find more information about our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need further information, just add them in the comment field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your request: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
Depends at short notice on conditions on the mountain
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the Arbenbiwak
We meet at the railway station in Zermatt and walk together to the valley station of the cable car to Schwarzsee. From there we climb up to the Arbenbiwak. Alternatively, the entire approach to the Arbenbiwak can also be done on foot. The approach is already a proper mountain day and takes us step by step into the high-alpine surroundings below the Obergabelhorn.
Walking time: 4 h | ↑ 1,050 m | ↓ 400 m
▲ Arbenbiwak
Day 2: Arbengrat and traverse
We set off early the next morning and head for the Arbengrat. The ridge itself offers wonderful climbing and a magnificent sunrise. Once we reach the summit of the Obergabelhorn, however, our tour is far from over. We abseil and, via a steep firn ridge and another rock tower, reach the Wellenkuppe. From there we continue on mixed snow and rock, finally descending the steep glacier towards the Rothornhütte.
Total time: 9 h | ↑ 950 m | ↓ 950 m | Difficulty: AD, III+
⌂ Rothornhütte
Day 3: Descent to Zermatt
On day 3 we descend from the Rothornhütte to Zermatt. After the long and impressive days on the mountain, this is a fitting end to this great tour.
Walking time: 3 h | ↓ 1,600 m
Info: Without the cable car, the approach is approx. 1.5 h and 550 m of ascent longer. Alternatively, the tour can be extended with further wonderful tours to the Zinalrothorn from the Rothornhütte. If you are interested, let me know in your enquiry.
Any changes to the programme that may become necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, availability of accommodation, etc.) are always made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the tour via the Arbengrat suitable for?
The tour is suitable for experienced alpinists with good fitness, confident crampon technique and a love of exposed ridge climbing. The long approach and the extended summit day should not be underestimated.
How do the overnight stays work on this tour?
In the version described, we first spend the night in the Arbenbiwak and, after the traverse, in the Rothornhütte.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Above all, you will need suitable mountaineering boots and a well-fitting rucksack. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDES FROM SOUTH TYROL
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