Four-thousanders
Obergabelhorn
Arbengrat (AD,III+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
2.200,- €
ABOUT THE TOUR
A great Western Alps classic: via the Arbengrat to the Obergabelhorn and, after a long, beautiful traverse, across to the Rothornhütte.
3 days · Difficulty AD, III+ · Valais Alps
Obergabelhorn - Arbengrat: Thanks to its impressive rock quality and inspiring ridge climbing, the Arbengrat on the Obergabelhorn ranks among the great classics of the Western Alps. At the latest, when you enjoy the delightful pitches in the morning sun along the ridge, you understand why this route is so popular and why it unquestionably belongs in every mountaineering book as one of the absolute highlights.
Yet the summit of the Obergabelhorn demands, in addition to the enjoyable rock section, solid crampon technique on the steep firn passages, as well as a long approach and the choice either to spend the night in a bivouac and slightly shorten the tour the next day, or to rely on the comfort of the Schönbielhütte and accept a longer day on the mountain.
Either way, arriving at the Rothornhütte means completing a magnificent Western Alps tour that you will not soon forget.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay at the Arbenbiwak
(or optionally at the Schönbielhütte with half board)
- 1 overnight stay at the Rothornhütte with half board
- 1 cable car ticket (Zermatt - Schwarzsee - optional)
- Expenses (overnight stays, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Valais Alps
Best time of year:
Mid-June - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Zermatt - train station
What you need
Requirements:
- Surefootedness
- Ability to use crampons safely
- Grade III climbing (UIAA)
- Very good physical condition
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
2.200,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
Short-term dependent on the conditions on the mountain
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the Arben bivouac
We meet in Zermatt at the railway station and walk together to the valley station of the cable car to Schwarzsee. From there we ascend to the Arben bivouac. Alternatively, the entire approach to the Arben bivouac can also be done on foot. The approach is already a proper mountain day and brings us step by step into the high-alpine terrain below the Obergabelhorn.
Walking time: 4 h | ↑ 1,050 m | ↓ 400 m
▲ Arben bivouac
Day 2: Arbengrat and traverse
The next morning we set off early and head for the Arbengrat. The ridge itself offers wonderful climbing and a magnificent sunrise. Once we reach the summit of the Obergabelhorn, however, our tour is far from over. We abseil and, via a steep firn ridge and another rock tower, reach the Wellenkuppe. From there the route continues on mixed snow and rock terrain, finishing with the descent down the steep glacier towards the Rothornhütte.
Total time: 9 h | ↑ 950 m | ↓ 950 m | Difficulty: AD, III+
⌂ Rothornhütte
Day 3: Descent to Zermatt
On day 3 we descend from the Rothornhütte to Zermatt. After the long and impressive days in the mountains, this is a fitting conclusion to this great tour.
Walking time: 3 h | ↓ 1,600 m
Info: Without the cable car, the approach is extended by approx. 1.5 h and 550 m of ascent. Alternatively, the tour can also be extended with further wonderful climbs of the Zinalrothorn from the Rothornhütte. If that interests you, let me know in your enquiry.
Any changes to the program that may be necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, accommodation booking situation, etc.) will always be made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Arbengrat tour suitable for?
The tour is suitable for experienced alpinists with good fitness, solid crampon technique, and a taste for exposed ridge climbing. The long approach and the demanding summit day should not be underestimated.
How does the overnight stay work on this tour?
In the variant described, we first spend the night in the Arben bivouac and, after the traverse, in the Rothornhütte.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and a well-fitting rucksack. Technical equipment can be hired from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
