1861
4,506 m
Johann Joseph Bennen, Ulrich Wenger, John Tyndall
WEISSHORN
East Ridge (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€1,900
for 1 person
Duration:
3 days
Weisshorn – Normal route
If elegance in the mountains has a name, it is Weisshorn – or, as the Swiss say: Wysshöra.
4,506 m · Difficulty AD, III · 3 days · Valais Alps
Certainly not only for me, it is the most beautifully shaped summit in the Alps – a mountain just as a child would draw it. Three ridges lead to the summit and give it the shape of a perfect pyramid. Wild faces, crevassed glaciers, huge seracs and steep flanks create the forbidding yet alluring appearance of the Weisshorn.
All this, set in a magnificent landscape and surrounded by other dream mountains, is what makes the Weisshorn so special. All routes are long, have to be done under your own steam and require the best conditions as well as a fit, well-acclimatised alpinist who can seriously take on the challenge of an ascent. For this reason, only a few mountaineers ever get to stand on this exclusive summit.
THE TOUR
Although the route via the East Ridge is the easiest ascent of the Weisshorn, it is already very demanding and must by no means be underestimated just because it is called the normal route. There is certainly no "route" in the sense of a path here.
Demanding, exposed ridge climbing up to grade III, followed by steep firn slopes, requires climbing experience, sure-footedness and experience in using crampons and an ice axe. If you have these qualities, or have acquired them on the ascent of many other peaks, you are ready to take on the challenge and will be up to it.
Excellent fitness is the basic requirement. Only then does this ascent become a true experience. Only then can you enjoy this summit in a fitting way, without constantly operating at your own limit. That is exactly what makes this great tour in the Valais Alps so appealing: it is long, serious and demanding – but precisely for that reason something very special.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Overnight stay with half board at the Weisshornhütte
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (overnight stay) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Valais mountains
Best time of year:
Mid-July - end of August
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Randa - railway station
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
- Confident walking and climbing in crampons: climbing up to UIAA III and firn slopes of up to 45° await us on this ascent
Key to enjoyment
- Good fitness for a long summit day that demands full concentration throughout
- Good acclimatisation beforehand is strongly recommended
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€1,900
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Randa right at the multi-storey car park by the railway station and, after a short gear check, start the approach to the hut. Although the Weisshornhütte can be reached without difficulty along a well-built hiking trail, with 1,550 vertical metres it is one of the longer hut approaches in the entire Alps. A day that shows straight away that the Weisshorn gives nothing away.
Walking time: 4.5 h | ↑ 1,550 m
⌂ Weisshornhütte
Day 2: Via the East Ridge
The next morning the alarm wakes us early. Breakfast is at 2 a.m. at the hut, and then we set off by the light of our head torches. The summit ascent via the East Ridge takes us almost the whole day. Once again there are 1,600 vertical metres to cover – most of them in technically demanding terrain that calls for maximum concentration and forgives no mistakes. Best prepare yourself for a lot of climbing and scrambling. An exciting, airy but very beautiful climb along the ridge awaits us, finishing with steep firn slopes below the summit. At the top we are rewarded with a wonderful panorama to marvel at and enjoy at length, before it is time once again for full concentration. We return to the Weisshornhütte along the ascent route. Most of it has to be downclimbed; only the odd tower can be abseiled. Back at the hut, we raise a toast to what will hopefully have been a successful tour.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,600 m | ↓ 1,600 m | Difficulty: AD, III
⌂ Weisshornhütte
Day 3: Descent to Randa
After a restful night at the hut and a leisurely late breakfast, it is far more relaxing to tackle the long descent back to Randa with fresh strength. And how often do you get to sleep in at a hut among the four-thousanders of the Alps! =)
Walking time: 3 h | ↓ 1,550 m
Info: The mountain guide descends to the valley after the summit day. For guests, we strongly recommend an additional night at the hut and descending the next day. We only recommend doing the tour in two days for extremely fit mountaineers, as it is a whopping 3,150 metres of descent from the summit to the valley – almost half of it in difficult terrain.
The story of the first ascent
For many, the Weisshorn is the most beautiful mountain in the Alps. The first ascent of the "Diamond of the Valais", as it is also known, was made on 19 August 1861 by the two mountain guides Johann Joseph Bennen and Ulrich Wenger together with the Irish surveyor and natural scientist John Tyndall, who also made a name for himself with several attempts on the Matterhorn. The Irish-Swiss rope team reached the summit of the Weisshorn via the East Ridge, which is still the usual normal route today. The two other striking ridges were also climbed for the first time at the end of the 19th century: the demanding South Ridge (Schaligrat) in 1895 and the traverse of the North Ridge in 1898.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Weisshorn ascent via the East Ridge suitable for?
The tour is suitable for very fit, well-acclimatised alpinists who already have experience of demanding alpine tours. You should feel comfortable in exposed terrain, have climbing experience and be confident using crampons and an ice axe.
How strenuous is the tour really?
In short: very. Even the approach to the Weisshornhütte is long, and the summit day via the East Ridge calls for stamina, concentration and reserves. If you want to enjoy the Weisshorn, you should not be at your limit the whole time.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the exact packing list with your confirmation email. The most important items are suitable mountaineering boots and warm clothing. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# WEISSHORN # EAST RIDGE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE