1861
4,506 m
Johann Josef Benet, Ulrich Wenger, John Tyndall
WEISSHORN
East Ridge (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.900,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
If elegance in the mountains has a name, then it would have to be the Weisshorn (or as the Swiss say, Wysshöra). It is certainly not just for me, the most beautifully shaped peak in the Alps – a mountain that a child would draw. Three ridges lead to the summit, giving it the shape of a perfect pyramid. Wild cliffs, ragged glaciers, enormous seracs, and breathtaking steepness on its flanks create the forbidding yet simultaneously alluring appearance of this 4,506-meter-high colossus. All this, set amidst a fantastic landscape surrounded by other dream mountains, makes the Weisshorn so special. All the climbs are long, can be managed under one's own steam, require the best conditions, and a fit and well-acclimatized alpinist who can seriously take on the challenge of an ascent. For this reason, only a few mountaineers are denied the opportunity to stand on this exclusive summit.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Weisshorn - East Ridge: While the tour via the east ridge is the easiest ascent of the Weisshorn, it is already very demanding and should not be underestimated due to its designation as a normal route. This route is definitely not a path. Challenging and exposed ridge climbing up to grade III, followed by steep snow slopes, requires climbing experience, surefootedness, and experience with crampons and ice axes. If you possess these qualities, or have acquired them while climbing many other peaks, you are ready to take on the challenge and will easily rise to it. Excellent physical fitness is a prerequisite; this will make this climb an experience. Then you can enjoy this summit in a dignified manner without constantly pushing yourself to your limits.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Half-board accommodation at the Weisshorn Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (overnight accommodation)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Wallis Mountains
Best time of year:
Mid-July - end of August
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Randa - Train Station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe walking and climbing with crampons: Climbing up to UIAA IV and snow slopes with gradients up to 45° await us on this ascent.
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good physical condition for a long day on the summit, which requires constant concentration.
- Proper acclimatization beforehand is highly recommended.
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Weisshorn Hut
We'll meet in Randa, right by the parking garage at the train station, and after a quick gear check, we'll begin the approach to the hut. While the approach is straightforward along a well-maintained hiking trail, with its 1,550 meters of elevation gain, it's one of the longer approaches in the entire Alpine region. The ascent will take approximately 4-5 hours.
Day 2: Via the East Ridge to the Weisshorn
The next morning, we'll be woken early by the alarm clock. Breakfast will be served at the hut at 2:00 AM, after which we'll set off by headlamp. The ascent to the summit via the East Ridge will take 6-7 hours. This involves another 1,600 meters of elevation gain – most of it in technically demanding terrain that requires utmost concentration and leaves no room for error. Be prepared for 1,000 meters of climbing and scrambling. An exciting, airy, but very beautiful climb awaits us along the ridge, culminating in steep (up to 45° depending on conditions) snow slopes below the summit. Reaching the top, we'll be rewarded with a magnificent panorama to admire and savor before it's time to refocus. We'll return to the hut along the ascent route, mostly downclimbing. Only a few towers can be rappelled. Back at the hut, we'll raise a toast to what we hope will be a successful tour. The mountain guide will then descend to the valley. We strongly recommend that our guests spend another night at the hut before descending the following day.
Day 3: Descent back to Randa
After a restful night at the hut and a leisurely (late) breakfast, the long descent back to Randa is considerably more relaxed. And when else can you sleep in at a mountain hut on the 4,000-meter peaks of the Alps! =)
*We can only recommend this two-day tour to extremely fit mountaineers, as it involves a descent of 3,100 meters from the summit to the valley (almost half of which is in difficult terrain)!
The story of the first ascent
For many, the Weisshorn is the most beautiful mountain in the Alps. The first ascent of the "Diamond of Valais," as it is also called, was achieved on August 19, 1861, by the two mountain guides Johann Josef Benet and Ulrich Wenger, together with the Irish surveyor and natural scientist John Tyndall, who also made a name for himself through several ascents on the Matterhorn. The Irish-Grisons-Valais rope party reached the summit of the Weisshorn via the east ridge, the standard route still used today. The two other prominent ridges were also first climbed at the end of the 19th century: the challenging south ridge (Schaligrat) in 1895, and the traverse of the north ridge in 1898.
