1861
4,506 m
Johann Josef Benet, Ulrich Wenger, John Tyndall
WEISSHORN
East Ridge (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.900,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
If elegance in the mountain world has a name, it is Weisshorn – or, as the Swiss say: Wysshöra.
4,506 m · Difficulty AD, III · 3 days · Valais Alps
For me, and surely not only for me, it is the most beautifully shaped summit in the Alps – a mountain just as a child would draw it. Three ridges lead to the summit and give it the shape of a perfect pyramid. Wild faces, broken glaciers, enormous seracs and steep flanks create the forbidding yet at the same time alluring appearance of the Weisshorn.
All of this, set amid a magnificent landscape and surrounded by other dream peaks, makes the Weisshorn so special. All routes are long, must be climbed under your own steam, and require the very best conditions as well as a fit, well-acclimatised alpinist who is ready to take on the challenge of the ascent in earnest. For this reason, only a few mountaineers are granted the chance to stand on this exclusive summit.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The route via the Ostgrat is indeed the easiest ascent of the Weisshorn, but it is already very demanding and must by no means be underestimated just because it is described as the normal route. For it can definitely not be called a path.
Demanding and exposed ridge climbing up to grade III, followed by steep snow flanks, requires climbing experience, sure-footedness, and experience in the use of crampons and ice axe. If you bring these qualities with you, or have acquired them on the ascent of many other peaks, you are ready to face the challenge and will be equal to it.
Excellent fitness is the basic requirement. Only then does this ascent become a true experience. Only then can this summit be enjoyed in a worthy manner, without constantly moving at your personal limit. That is precisely what gives this great tour in the Valais Alps its appeal: it is long, serious and demanding – but for exactly that reason, something very special.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Half-board accommodation at the Weisshorn Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (overnight accommodation)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Wallis Mountains
Best time of year:
Mid-July - end of August
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Randa - Train Station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe walking and climbing with crampons: Climbing up to UIAA IV and snow slopes with gradients up to 45° await us on this ascent.
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good physical condition for a long day on the summit, which requires constant concentration.
- Proper acclimatization beforehand is highly recommended.
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
1.900,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Randa right at the car park by the railway station and, after a short gear check, begin the approach to the hut. The approach to the Weisshornhütte follows a well-built hiking trail and presents no technical difficulties, but with 1,550 metres of ascent it is one of the longer approaches in the entire Alps. A day that immediately shows that the Weisshorn gives nothing away for free.
Walking time: 4.5 h | ↑ 1,550 m
⌂ Weisshornhütte
Day 2: Via the East Ridge
The next morning, the alarm pulls us from sleep early. Breakfast is served in the hut at 2 a.m., and afterwards we set off by the light of our headtorches. For the summit ascent via the Ostgrat, we are on the move for almost the entire day. Once again, 1,600 vertical metres have to be covered – most of them in technically demanding terrain that requires maximum concentration and forgives no mistakes. Best prepare yourself now for many metres of climbing and scrambling. A thrilling, airy, yet very beautiful ridge climb awaits us, followed at the end by steep snow flanks below the summit. Once at the top, we are rewarded with a magnificent panorama that we can admire and enjoy at length before it is once again time for full concentration. Following the line of ascent, we return to the Weisshornhütte. Most of the route must be downclimbed again; only the occasional tower can be descended by abseil. Back at the hut, we raise a glass to what will hopefully have been a successful tour.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,600 m | ↓ 1,600 m | Difficulty: AD, III
⌂ Weisshornhütte
Day 3: Descent to Randa
After a restful night in the hut and a leisurely late breakfast, it is much more relaxed to begin the long descent back to Randa with fresh legs. And how often do you get the chance to sleep in at a hut among the four-thousanders of the Alps! =)
Walking time: 3 h | ↓ 1,550 m
Info: The mountain guide descends to the valley after summit day. For guests, we definitely recommend one additional night at the hut and descending the following day. We recommend doing the tour in two days only for extremely fit mountaineers, as from the summit to the valley there are a full 3,150 metres of descent – nearly half of them in difficult terrain.
The story of the first ascent
For many, the Weisshorn is the most beautiful mountain in the Alps. The first ascent of the "Diamond of Valais," as it is also called, was achieved on August 19, 1861, by the two mountain guides Johann Josef Benet and Ulrich Wenger, together with the Irish surveyor and natural scientist John Tyndall, who also made a name for himself through several ascents on the Matterhorn. The Irish-Grisons-Valais rope party reached the summit of the Weisshorn via the east ridge, the standard route still used today. The two other prominent ridges were also first climbed at the end of the 19th century: the challenging south ridge (Schaligrat) in 1895, and the traverse of the north ridge in 1898.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Weisshorn ascent via the East Ridge suitable for?
The tour is suitable for very fit and well-acclimatised alpinists who already have experience on demanding alpine mountaineering tours. You should feel comfortable in exposed terrain, have climbing experience, and be confident using crampons and an ice axe.
How strenuous is the tour really?
In short: quite. Even the approach to the Weisshornhütte is long, and summit day via the Ostgrat demands stamina, concentration, and reserves. Anyone who wants to truly enjoy the Weisshorn should not be moving at their limit the whole time.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. The most important items are suitable mountaineering boots and warm clothing. Technical equipment can be hired from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
