1865
4,478 m
Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, D. Robert Hadow, Peter Taugwalder father and son
MATTERHORN
Hörnligrat (AD+, III+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.800,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Standing on the Matterhorn via the Hörnligrat is, for many, not just any summit goal, but a true mountain dream in the Valais Alps.
2 days · Difficulty ZS, III+ · Valais Alps
The Matterhorn hardly needs any introduction. It is the very definition of a mountain. Almost everyone – whether a mountaineer or not – knows exactly which peak it is as soon as they see a picture of the Matterhorn.
It appears on every to-do list and is the dream of every ambitious mountaineer: to stand right on top once and savour that summit joy. But unfortunately, this very special status of the mountain brings not only advantages: it also holds the sad record for the highest number of fatal accidents. The first occurred on the day of the first ascent.
Difficult route-finding and loose rock as soon as you leave the correct line, combined with high alpine demands, have sadly proved the undoing of many rope teams overwhelmed by the tour. To prevent exactly that, and to make sure this becomes the dream climb you imagine it to be, I will provide the necessary safety. That leaves nothing standing in the way of a dream day on an absolute dream mountain.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Matterhorn – Hörnligrat: Der meistbesuchte und technisch einfachste Anstieg auf das Matterhorn führt über den Hörnligrat. In der Hochsaison ist die Hörnlihütte restlos ausgebucht, und dementsprechend viele Seilschaften sind auf dem Grat unterwegs.
Vor allem der Aufbruch bei Nacht mit der komplizierten und anspruchsvollen Wegfindung kostet einigen Seilschaften viel wertvolle Zeit. Genau dort zeigt sich auch, warum diese Tour trotz des berühmten Namens alles andere als ein Selbstläufer ist. Wer am Grat nicht sauber unterwegs ist, verliert schnell Zeit und Kraft.
Der Gipfeltag ist lang und fordert höchste Konzentration vom ersten bis zum letzten Schritt. Sowohl der Auf- als auch der Abstieg dauern relativ lange, da alles am kurzen Seil gesichert werden muss. Eine gute Akklimatisierung sowie etwas Klettererfahrung sind wichtige Voraussetzungen für diese anspruchsvolle Hochtour auf den wohl berühmtesten Gipfel dieser Erde.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Cable car ticket Zermatt - Schwarzsee and return (approx. €50-60)
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Hörnlihütte
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Walliser Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Zermatt - Matterhorn Express valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe climbing, even with crampons, up to difficulty level III
- Good physical condition and acclimatization
- Concentration for 8-10 hours in challenging terrain
Requirements for enjoyment
- Freedom from vertigo
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
1.800,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ascent to the Hörnlihütte
We meet in Zermatt at the valley station of the Matterhorn Express. After a short gear check, we get our ticket for the lift ride up and back to Schwarzsee. We then hike up to the Hörnlihütte in about 2 hours. Our objective for the next day is constantly in view, and the anticipation grows more and more the closer we get to the Matterhorn. Once at the hut, we conserve our energy for the strenuous second day and prepare for the upcoming Hörnligrat.
Walking time: 2 h | ↑ 700 m
⌂ Hörnlihütte (3,260 m)
Day 2: Via the Hörnligrat
Wake-up at the Hörnlihütte is around 4:00 am. Setting off earlier or later makes no sense, as strict rules apply at the hut – and rightly so. After breakfast, we put on our harnesses straight away and get ready to start. As soon as the hut guardian unlocks the doors, we have the great advantage that mountain guides and their guests are allowed to set off first. By the light of our headlamps, the climbing on the Hörnligrat begins soon behind the hut. Secured on the rope, it becomes a real pleasure. After several hours, we reach the summit of the Matterhorn and enjoy the panorama. After a summit break, the descent still lies ahead of us – just as long and demanding as the ascent. Good preparation and acclimatisation are essential for this long day.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 1,200 m | ↓ 1,900 m | Difficulty: ZS, III+
Info: An extra day can be added as a warm-up tour and to get used to the climbing on the Matterhorn. The Breithorn traverse is well suited for this. If you are not sure whether you are ready for the Matterhorn, this is a good test and at the same time an ideal acclimatisation tour. If the Matterhorn is your first tour with us, We must insist on a preparation tour. On request, I am also happy to offer a similar tour tailored entirely to your wishes. I reserve the right to turn back at any time if your strength fades and, as a result, your sure-footedness and concentration deteriorate.
The story of the first ascent
Since 1857, unsuccessful attempts had been made to make the first ascent of the Matterhorn – mostly from the Italian side via the Lion Ridge. Whymper, too, had failed there seven times, including surviving a 60-meter fall. So he tried to persuade his friend Jean-Antoine Carrel to attempt it from Zermatt, but Carrel insisted on the Lion Ridge. When Whymper learned in 1865 that Carell had set out again without telling him, he assembled a group for an immediate attempt via the Hörnligrat. The seven (Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, D. Robert Hadow, and Peter Taugwalder, father and son) finally reached the summit on July 14, 1865. Carell and his group spotted them further down on Pic Tyndall. Whymper was the first to reach the summit because he cut himself free from the rope shortly before reaching the summit. However, tragedy struck during the descent: the first four members of the rope team (Croz, Hadow, Hudson and Douglas) fell to their deaths above the so-called shoulder on the north face.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How demanding is the Matterhorn ascent via the Hörnligrat?
The tour is a demanding alpine tour and requires very good fitness, reliable sure-footedness, and some climbing experience. The long summit day in particular demands concentration from the first step to the last.
Do I need a preparation tour before the Matterhorn?
Yes, good acclimatisation and preparation are very important. If the Matterhorn is your first tour with Südtirolalpin, We must insist on a preparation tour. As a test and to get used to the climbing, the Breithorntraverse is, for example, a very good option.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. The most important items are suitable mountaineering boots and weatherproof clothing. Technical equipment can be rented from the Südtiroler Bergführer for a small wear-and-tear fee.
