1865
4,478 m
Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, D. Robert Hadow, Peter Taugwalder father and son
MATTERHORN
Hörnli Ridge (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€1,800
for 1 person
Duration:
2 days
Matterhorn – Hörnli Ridge
For many, standing on the Matterhorn in the Valais Alps is not just any summit but a goal in their mountaineering life. The Hörnli Ridge is the perfect way to make this dream come true.
2 days · Difficulty ZS, III · Valais Alps
The Matterhorn really needs no introduction. It is the epitome of a mountain. Almost everyone – mountaineer or not – knows which mountain it is as soon as they see a picture of the Matterhorn.
It is on every to-do list and the dream of every ambitious mountaineer: to stand right on top just once and savour that summit joy. Sadly, though, the mountain's very special status does not only bring advantages: it is also one of the mountains with the most fatal accidents. The first ones happened on the very day of the first ascent.
Difficult route-finding and loose rock as soon as you stray from the right line, combined with high alpine demands, sadly prove fatal to many rope teams that are out of their depth on this tour. With a mountain guide, this tour becomes exactly what it should be: a dream day on an absolute dream summit that you can enjoy to the full.
THE TOUR
Matterhorn – Hörnli Ridge: The most popular and technically easiest ascent of the Matterhorn follows the Hörnli Ridge. In high season the Hörnlihütte is fully booked, and accordingly there are many rope teams on the ridge.
The night-time start in particular, with its complicated and demanding route-finding, costs some rope teams a lot of valuable time. This is exactly where it becomes clear why, despite its famous name, this tour is anything but a walk in the park. Anyone who does not move cleanly on the ridge quickly loses time and energy.
The summit day is long and demands maximum concentration from the first step to the last. Both the ascent and the descent take a relatively long time, as everything has to be protected on a short rope. Good acclimatisation and some climbing experience are important prerequisites for this demanding alpine tour on what is probably the most famous summit in the world.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Cable car ticket Zermatt - Schwarzsee and return (approx. €50 - 60)
- 1 night in a hut with half board at the Hörnlihütte
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Valais Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Zermatt - Matterhorn Express valley station
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
- Confident climbing up to grade III, including in crampons
- Good fitness and acclimatisation
- Concentration for 8-10 hours in demanding terrain
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€1,800
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the Hörnlihütte
We meet in Zermatt at the valley station of the Matterhorn Express. After a short gear check, we buy our return ticket up to Schwarzsee. From there we climb to the Hörnlihütte in about 2 hours. Our objective for the next day is in view the whole time, and the anticipation grows and grows the closer we get to the Matterhorn. Once at the hut, we save our strength for the strenuous second day and prepare for the Hörnli Ridge ahead.
Walking time: 2 h | ↑ 700 m
⌂ Hörnlihütte (3,260 m)
Day 2: Via the Hörnli Ridge
Wake-up at the Hörnlihütte is around 4:00 am. There is no point setting off earlier or later, as strict rules apply at the hut – and rightly so. After breakfast we put on our harnesses straight away and get ready to go. As soon as the hut keeper unlocks the doors, we have the big advantage that mountain guides and their clients are allowed to start first. By the light of our headlamps, the climbing on the Hörnli Ridge begins shortly behind the hut. Protected on the rope, it becomes a real pleasure. After several hours we reach the summit of the Matterhorn and enjoy the panorama. After a summit break, the equally long and demanding descent still lies ahead. Good preparation and acclimatisation are essential for this long day.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 1,200 m | ↓ 1,900 m | Difficulty: ZS, III
Info: An extra day can be added as a warm-up tour and to get used to the climbing on the Matterhorn. The Breithorn traverse is ideal for this. If you are not sure whether you are up to the Matterhorn, it is a good test and at the same time an ideal acclimatisation tour. If the Matterhorn is your first tour with Südtirolalpin, we insist on a preparatory tour. A similar tour tailored entirely to your wishes is also available on request.
We reserve the right to turn back at any time if your strength fades and your sure-footedness and concentration suffer as a result. Good preparation and acclimatisation are essential on the Matterhorn.
The story of the first ascent
From 1857 onwards, unsuccessful attempts were made at a first ascent of the Matterhorn - mostly from the Italian side via the Lion Ridge. Whymper had also failed there seven times, and among other things survived a 60-metre fall. So he wanted to persuade his friend Jean-Antoine Carrel to try from Zermatt, but Carrel insisted on the Lion Ridge. When Whymper learned in 1865 that Carrel had set off again without telling him, he put together a party for an immediate attempt via the Hörnli Ridge. The seven (Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, D. Robert Hadow, and Peter Taugwalder father and son) finally reached the summit on 14 July 1865. They spotted Carrel and his party further down on Pic Tyndall. Whymper and Croz untied from the rope just below the summit and reached it first. On the descent, however, tragedy struck: the first four members of the rope team (Croz, Hadow, Hudson and Douglas) fell to their deaths down the north face while still above the so-called Shoulder.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How demanding is the Matterhorn ascent via the Hörnli Ridge?
This is a demanding alpine tour that requires very good fitness, reliable sure-footedness and some climbing experience. The long summit day in particular demands concentration from the first step to the last.
Do I need a preparatory tour before the Matterhorn?
Yes, good acclimatisation and preparation are very important. If the Matterhorn is your first tour with Südtirolalpin, we insist on a preparatory tour. The Breithorn traverse, for example, works well as a test and to get used to the climbing.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. The most important things are suitable mountain boots and weatherproof clothing. Technical equipment can be rented from your South Tyrolean mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# MATTERHORN # HÖRNLI RIDGE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE