1865
4,478 m
Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, D. Robert Hadow, Peter Taugwalder father and son
MATTERHORN
Hörnligrat (AD+, III+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.800,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Matterhorn really needs no introduction. It is the epitome of a mountain. Almost everyone—mountaineer or not—knows what it is as soon as they see a picture of the Matterhorn. It's on every to-do list, and it's the dream of every ambitious mountaineer to stand at the very top and enjoy the unique bliss of reaching the summit. Unfortunately, this mountain's very special status doesn't only have its advantages: It also holds the sad record for the most fatal accidents. The first ones happen on the very day of the first ascent. Difficult pathfinding and brittle rock once you're off the right path, coupled with the high alpinist demands, unfortunately prove to be the downfall of many rope teams who are overwhelmed by the tour. To prevent precisely that, and to ensure that this tour becomes the dream tour you imagined, I will ensure the necessary safety. Nothing stands in the way of a dream day on an absolute dream mountain.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Matterhorn - Hörnligrat: The most popular and technically easiest ascent of the Matterhorn leads via the Hörnligrat. During peak season, the hut is completely booked, and accordingly, many rope teams are on the ridge. Setting off at night, with the complicated and challenging routefinding, costs some rope teams valuable time. Summit day is long and requires utmost concentration from the first to the last step. Both the ascent and descent take a relatively long time, as everything must be secured with a short rope. Good acclimatization and some climbing experience are important prerequisites for this demanding alpine tour of arguably the most famous peak in the world.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Cable car ticket Zermatt - Schwarzsee and return (approx. €50-60)
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Hörnlihütte
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Walliser Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Zermatt - Matterhorn Express valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe climbing, even with crampons, up to difficulty level III
- Good physical condition and acclimatization
- Concentration for 8-10 hours in challenging terrain
Requirements for enjoyment
- Freedom from vertigo
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the Hörnli Hut
We'll meet in Zermatt, at the valley station of the Matterhorn Express. After a quick gear check, we'll get our tickets for the ascent and descent to Schwarzsee. We'll then ascend to the Hörnli Hut at 3,260 meters in about two hours. Our goal for the next day is always in sight, and our anticipation grows the closer we get to the Matterhorn. Once at the hut, we'll conserve our energy for the strenuous second day and prepare for the upcoming Hörnli Ridge.
Day 2: Across the Hörnli Ridge to the Matterhorn
We'll wake up at the Hörnli Hut around 4:00 a.m. Leaving earlier or later is pointless, as strict rules apply at the Hörnli Hut, and that's a good thing. After breakfast, we'll immediately put on our climbing harnesses and get ready to go. As soon as the hut warden unlocks the doors, we have a significant safety advantage, as mountain guides and their guests are allowed to start first. In the light of our headlamps, we soon begin our climb behind the hut. Secured by ropes, the climb becomes a true pleasure. After about 4-5 hours, we reach the summit and enjoy a breathtaking panorama. After a rest at the summit, we face the equally long and challenging descent. It will take us another 4 hours to reach the Hörnli Hut. In total, 8 to 10 hours of complete concentration are required. Good preparation and acclimatization are essential.
Tip:
As an introductory tour and to get used to climbing on the Matterhorn, an additional day can be added, during which we will attempt the Breithorn crossing, with difficulties up to grade III. If you're not sure whether you're up to the Matterhorn, this is a good test and an ideal acclimatization tour. If the Matterhorn is your first tour with me, I will insist on a preparatory tour. The Breithorn crossing would also be a good option here – or, upon request, a similar tour tailored to your needs, where I can assess you better afterward.
Important:
For safety reasons, I reserve the right to cancel the tour at any time if your strength wanes, resulting in a loss of surefootedness and concentration. In that case, we'll prepare properly and simply come back! ;)
The story of the first ascent
Since 1857, unsuccessful attempts had been made to make the first ascent of the Matterhorn – mostly from the Italian side via the Lion Ridge. Whymper, too, had failed there seven times, including surviving a 60-meter fall. So he tried to persuade his friend Jean-Antoine Carrel to attempt it from Zermatt, but Carrel insisted on the Lion Ridge. When Whymper learned in 1865 that Carell had set out again without telling him, he assembled a group for an immediate attempt via the Hörnligrat. The seven (Edward Whymper, Michel Croz, Charles Hudson, Lord Francis Douglas, D. Robert Hadow, and Peter Taugwalder, father and son) finally reached the summit on July 14, 1865. Carell and his group spotted them further down on Pic Tyndall. Whymper was the first to reach the summit because he cut himself free from the rope shortly before reaching the summit. However, tragedy struck during the descent: the first four members of the rope team (Croz, Hadow, Hudson and Douglas) fell to their deaths above the so-called shoulder on the north face.
