Four-thousanders
MONT BLANC
Normal route - Bosses Ridge (PD, I)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
3 days
Mont Blanc – Französischer Normalweg
Standing on top of Mont Blanc via the classic normal route is a big dream for many alpinists.
3 days · Difficulty PD, I
Mont Blanc - normal route: the highest summit in the Alps. This title alone gives Mont Blanc a very special status among mountaineers and alpinists. The White Mountain has always cast its spell over climbers. Almost every possible ascent on every side of the mountain and at every conceivable grade seems to have been done. Chamonix at its feet is considered Europe's mountaineering mecca. The very best top alpinists mingle with the many recreational alpinists and amateur mountaineers. Add to this the many cable car tourists who ride comfortably up to almost four thousand metres to see this mighty backdrop of rock and ice up close.
But it is far more beautiful to actually stand on the roof of the Alps. The route has a few technical challenges, but overall it is very manageable for well-acclimatised mountaineers who already have alpine tour experience. The mountain guides take care of the rope work and safety challenges, so you can tackle the ascent of the highest summit in the Alps without a worry.
Important info: The booking situation on the highest mountain in the Alps is disastrous. The huts on the normal routes are hopelessly booked up, and as non-French mountain guides it is unfortunately also very difficult for us to reserve hut places. So how can it still work?
1. Book early: The huts' reservation portal opens to mountain guides at the beginning of December. Bookings for the normal route on Mont Blanc must therefore reach us and be confirmed by the end of November for the following summer.
2. Tour date: Dates in June and July are almost impossible to reserve. They are fully booked within minutes of the portal opening. Dates towards the end of the season, i.e. late August and September, are easier to arrange.
3. Alternative route: If you still want to climb Mont Blanc between June and mid-July, the normal route from the Italian side would be a good alternative. However, it is considerably longer and more demanding, so it is only recommended for mountaineers with very good fitness.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- 2 nights in huts with half board (Tete Rousse hut and Gouter hut)
- Rack railway (Nid d´Aigle)
- Expenses (hut, rack railway) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Mont Blanc massif
Best time of year:
July - mid-September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Les Houches - Bellevue cable car valley station
Requirements
Requirements:
'- Good fitness for 1,700 metres of ascent at high altitude
- Good acclimatisation (on request, I am happy to offer you an acclimatisation tour as proper preparation)
- Sure-footedness
PRICE
Participants:
1 - 2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends, among other things, on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find more information about our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need further information, just add them in the comment field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your request: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
On request
Depends at short notice on conditions on the mountain
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Ascent to the Goûter hut
We meet in the morning in Les Houches near Chamonix at the valley station of the Bellevue cable car, where we briefly check the equipment and talk through the tour. We then take the cable car up to Bellevue and continue on the Mont Blanc Tramway to the terminus at Nid d'Aigle. From here we start the approach to today's stage destination. At first we follow easy hiking trails to the Tête Rousse hut. Fairly soon after the hut, Mont Blanc shows its teeth for the first time. We have to cross the dreaded Grand Couloir and then climb on along the rock rib to the Goûter hut.
Total time: 5.5 h | ↑ 1,450 m | Difficulty: PD, I
⌂ Goûter hut
Day 2: Mont Blanc summit day
We set off from the hut early in the morning, climbing over the glacier into the sunrise. The first part, for warming up in the morning, is still fairly steady. We soon pass the bivouac hut. From here it gets more demanding, and we continue up the Bosses Ridge to the summit. Now we will clearly feel the high altitude. After the ascent, we reach the summit of Mont Blanc. The descent then takes us back along the ascent route to the Goûter hut and then through the Grand Couloir again to the Tête Rousse hut, where we spend another night. By now at the latest, we can celebrate what will hopefully have been a successful summit.
Total time: 8.5 h | ↑ 1,000 m | ↓ 1,650 m | Difficulty: PD, I
⌂ Tête Rousse hut
Day 3: Descent to the valley
The next morning, we descend from the Tête Rousse hut back to Nid d'Aigle. We hike back at a relaxed pace along the easy path to the rack railway. A short final day of the tour before we head back down to the valley.
Walking time: 2 h | ↓ 800 m
Any changes to the programme that may become necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, availability of accommodation, etc.) are always made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Mont Blanc normal route suitable for?
The tour is suitable for well-acclimatised mountaineers with alpine tour experience. Technically, the normal route is manageable, but the altitude, the length and passages such as the Grand Couloir demand good fitness and confident walking in crampons.
How difficult is it to get a place in a hut?
Unfortunately, often very difficult. On Mont Blanc in particular, the huts on the normal route are booked up quickly. That is why you should book very early, ideally by the end of November for the following summer. Later dates, especially towards the end of August and in September, are usually somewhat more realistic.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the full packing list with the confirmation email. Important items include suitable mountaineering boots and warm clothing. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDES FROM SOUTH TYROL
# MONT BLANC # NORMAL ROUTE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE