1829
4,273 m
Jakob Leuthold, Johann Währen, Franz Joseph Hugi
FINSTERAARHORN
Northwest Ridge (AD-)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.300,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The shark’s fin above the Bernese Oberland – a long, remote line through ice and rock to one of the most exclusive summits in the Alps.
3 days · Difficulty ZS- / AD- (alpine tour)
Like a shark’s fin, it rises high above the Bernese Oberland: the Finsteraarhorn, at 4,273 metres, is the highest peak in this unique glacier world. Leaving aside the crevasses on the seemingly endless glacier expanses around the Finsteraarhorn, the ascent to the summit is comparatively safe. An enjoyable ridge climb to the top and an incredible glacier backdrop as far as the eye can see are the ingredients for a truly special summit objective.
It is surprising that the summit is relatively little visited in summer. The reasons are probably the long approaches, which find little favour in our fast-paced world. But that is exactly what tours like this are for: escaping everyday life, enjoying pure nature for a few days, and leaving the hustle and bustle of the valley behind. 3 days are needed for the ascent, and this is the only Swiss national map sheet without a road – there are no crowds here.
So what could be better than taking on this technically relatively easy, but all the longer in terms of distance, ascent and standing on one of the most exclusive summits in the entire Alps? In any case, on one of the most remote.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Finsteraarhorn – Normal Route: Our tour follows in the footsteps of the first ascensionists Jakob Leuthold, Johann Währen, and Franz Joseph Hugi via the North-West Ridge to the summit. The summit day itself is a wonderful mix of glacier travel and ridge climbing on fine granite that is a real pleasure to climb.
From the Finsteraarhorn Hut, we head to the Hugisattel, the point where, according to the reports of the first ascensionists, the glaciologist Franz Joseph Hugi had to remain behind because of a foot injury and was not present when Jakob Leuthold and Johann Währen became the first climbers to reach the summit via the ridge above. Even so, he gathered a great deal of valuable information, and the saddle was named in his honour. So much for the summit day.
But before the summit can even be attempted, huge distances have to be covered on the Finsteraarhorn in order to reach what is probably the most remote hut in the entire Alps. It is an equally strenuous and beautiful experience to travel through a world of ice, snow, and rock far from any civilisation and fully immerse yourself in this mountain landscape.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 2x overnight stays in a hut with half board (Finsteraarhornhütte)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- *Depending on the descent route, a taxi and cable car ride back to the starting point may be required
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernese Oberland
Best time of year:
End of June - mid-September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Berghaus Oberaar - Parking directly at the reservoir
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good fitness for long, strenuous days of touring. Not with excessive elevation gain, but with very long distances.
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
2.200,- €
1.300,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet directly at the car park at Berghaus Oberaar, which can be reached via the Grimsel Pass. Here we will do a short equipment check and set off with only the necessary gear for a very long hut approach to one of the most remote huts in the entire Alpine region. We pass the Oberaarsee until, at the head of the valley, we reach the Oberaargletscher. Continuing over the Oberaarjoch, we descend onto the Galmigletscher. We are now right in the midst of perhaps the most remote and fascinating glacier landscape the entire Alps have to offer – and we have not even reached the hut yet. We descend a total of 500 vertical metres onto the Fieschergletscher and, via gentle glacier terrain, reach the cosy Finsteraarhorn Hut.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 1,250 m | ↓ 500 m | Difficulty: L (alpine tour)
⌂ Finsteraarhorn Hut (3,048 m)
Day 2: Summit day on the Finsteraarhorn
After a relaxed breakfast, we set off for the summit before first light. On the way, we will experience a magnificent sunrise in a vast glacier landscape that will certainly remain in the memory for a long time. Once we arrive at the Hugisattel, an enjoyable ridge with dramatic views down the north-east faces of the Finsteraarhorn to the Finsteraargletscher still awaits us – almost 1,000 metres below. From the summit, which we reach shortly afterwards, there is nothing but rock and ice to be seen. No roads, villages, or even towns. Only pure nature and impressive peaks as far as the eye can see. Once we have taken in this grand glacier panorama, we descend back along the ascent route to the Finsteraarhorn Hut.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 1,250 m | ↓ 1,250 m | Difficulty: ZS- / AD- (alpine tour)
⌂ Finsteraarhorn Hut (3,048 m)
Day 3: Descent to the valley
The final day is once again devoted entirely to the long journey back to civilisation. Several options are available. The most scenically impressive and varied undoubtedly leads over the Fieschergletscher down to Unnerbärg above Fischertal. However, this route is subject to major changes and is only feasible in good conditions. Afterwards, a taxi would take us back to our starting point at the Grimsel Pass. Another option is the route we already know back via the Oberaarjoch, or the return via the Jungfraujoch. Depending on conditions and the information available on site, we will choose the best option.
Total time: Depending on tour and route choice
Info: There are several ways to reach the Finsteraarhorn Hut. We are also happy to choose a different starting point during tour planning if it is easier for you to reach. Anyone who has already treated themselves to this long approach can make the most of the wonderful mountaineering options in this area. On request, this offer can gladly be extended by additional days to climb surrounding peaks such as the Fiescherhörner, the Grünhorn, the Groß Wannenhorn, or other summits. I would be happy to prepare an individual offer for you on request.
The story of the first ascent
It is unclear whether the Finsteraarhorn was first climbed in 1812 by Arnold Abbühl, Joseph Bortis, and Alois Volkern. They chose a route over the hanging glacier on the eastern flank of the southeast ridge, which has now largely melted away. The first ascent on August 10, 1829, by Jakob Leuthold and Johann Währen, is now considered the first and officially confirmed ascent. Together with glacier researcher Franz Joseph Hugi, who had to remain behind in a saddle that now bears his name due to a foot injury, they reached the highest point via the now-used normal route of the northwest ridge.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the ascent of the Finsteraarhorn suitable for?
The tour is suitable for enduring mountaineers with good fitness and experience on alpine tours. The ascent of the Finsteraarhorn is not technically extremely difficult, but it does require confident movement in crampons, a good head for altitude, and enjoyment of long days.
How strenuous is the approach to the Finsteraarhorn Hut?
The approach is long and, honestly, already a major part of the whole tour. That is exactly what defines the character of this undertaking: vast spaces, lots of glacier terrain, little traffic. Anyone who enjoys travelling in remote regions and does not want to be at the hut after the first hour will love the Finsteraarhorn Hut.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. The most important things are suitable mountaineering boots and functional clothing. Technical equipment can be hired from the mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
