top of page
1829
4,273 m
Jakob Leuthold, Johann Währen, Franz Joseph Hugi

FINSTERAARHORN

Northwest Ridge (AD-)

Südtirolalpin Mountain Guide South Tyrol

Südtirolalpin

Certified Mountain Guide

IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations

Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com​​

IFMGA Mountain Guide

Prices from

1.300,- €

THE MOUNTAIN
 

The shark fin, which towers high above the Bernese Oberland. At 4,273 meters, the Finsteraarhorn is the highest peak in this unique glacial world. Apart from the crevasses on the seemingly endless glacier expanse around the Finsteraarhorn, the ascent to the summit is comparatively safe. An appealing and enjoyable ridge climb to the summit and an incredible glacier backdrop as far as the eye can see are the ingredients for an unforgettable summit destination. It is surprising that the summit is relatively unvisited in summer. This is probably due to the long approaches, which are not very popular in our fast-paced world. But that is precisely what such tours are for: escaping everyday life and enjoying pure nature for a few days, escaping the hustle and bustle of the valley. Three days are required for the climb; it is the only national map in Switzerland without a single road, and there are no crowds here. What could be more beautiful than tackling this technically relatively easy, but all the longer, climb and standing on one of the most exclusive peaks in the entire Alps—and certainly the most remote.

ABOUT THE TOUR
 

Finsteraarhorn - Normal Route: Our tour takes us following in the footsteps of the first climbers, Jakob Leuthold, Johann Währen, and Franz Joseph Hugi, via the northwest ridge to the summit. Summit day itself is a wonderful mix of glacier touring and ridge climbing on fine, very climbable granite. From the hut, we head to the Hugi Saddle, the spot where, according to reports, the first climber, the glacier researcher Franz Joseph Hugi, had to stay behind due to a foot injury and was not present when Jakob Leuthold and Johann Währen became the first mountaineers to reach the summit via the adjoining ridge. Nevertheless, he gathered a wealth of valuable information, and the saddle was named after him in his honor. So much for summit day. But before we can even reach the summit, we have to overcome great distances on the Finsteraarhorn to reach what is probably the most remote hut in the entire Alps. It's an equally strenuous but also wonderful experience to be in a world of ice, snow, and rock, far from any civilization, and to fully immerse ourselves in this stunning and imposing mountain world.

INFO
 

Services
 

Included in the price:

- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide

- All necessary reservations are made in advance

 

Additional costs:

- 2x overnight stays in a hut with half board (Finsteraarhornhütte)

- Transfer to and from the meeting point

- *Depending on the descent route, a taxi and cable car ride back to the starting point may be required

- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide

- Individual tips

* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)

Facts
 

Location:

Bernese Oberland

 

Best time of year:

End of June - mid-September

 

 

Duration:

3 days

 

Meeting point:

Berghaus Oberaar - Parking directly at the reservoir

What you need
 

Safety-relevant requirements

- Sure-footedness

 

Requirements for enjoyment

- Good fitness for long, strenuous days of touring. Not with excessive elevation gain, but with very long distances.

PRICING

 

Participants:

 

1-2 people



Prices:

1 person:
2 people:

2.200,- €
1.300,- €

 

 

 

If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.

 

Dates:

upon request

PROGRAM

Day 1: Finsteraarhorn Hut
We meet directly at the parking lot at the Berghaus Oberaar. This is accessible via the Grimsel Pass. Here, we'll conduct a quick gear check and ensure we only carry the necessary gear for a very long climb to one of the most remote huts in the entire Alps. The hike passes Lake Oberaarsee until we reach the Oberaar Glacier at the end of the valley. Continuing over the Oberaarjoch, we descend to the Galmi Glacier. We're now in the midst of what is probably the most remote and fascinating glacier world the entire Alps has to offer—and we haven't even reached the hut yet. We descend a total of 500 meters to the Fiescher Glacier and reach the cozy and beautiful Finsteraarhorn Hut after about 8 hours across flat glaciers.

Day 2: Finsteraarhorn
After a leisurely breakfast, we set off toward the summit before first light. Along the way, we'll experience a fantastic sunrise in a breathtaking glacial landscape, one we'll surely remember for a long time. Once we reach the Hugisattel, a delightful ridge awaits, offering breathtaking views over the northeast face of the Finsteraarhorn down to the Finsteraar Glacier almost 1,000 meters below. From the summit, which we soon reach, there's nothing but rock and ice to see. No roads, villages, or even towns. Just pure nature and impressive peaks as far as the eye can see. Once we've had our fill of this magnificent glacier scenery, we'll begin the descent along the ascent route back to the Finsteraarhorn Hut.

Day 3: Descent
The last day is once again entirely dedicated to the long journey back to civilization. We have several options to choose from. The most scenic and varied route undoubtedly leads across the Fiescher Glacier down to Unnerbärg above Fischertal. However, this route is subject to significant changes and is only possible in good conditions. A taxi would then take us back to our starting point at the Grimsel Pass. Another option is the familiar route back via the Oberaarjoch, or the return route via the Jungfraujoch. We will find the best route depending on the conditions and the information available on site.

Alternative hut approaches: There are several ways to reach the Finsteraarhorn Hut. We are happy to choose a different starting point when planning the tour that is more easily accessible for you.

Tip: If you have already attempted this long approach, you can further explore the wonderful touring options in this area. This offer can be extended upon request to include additional days to climb surrounding peaks such as the Fiescherhörner, the Grünhorn, the Groß Wannenhorn, or other peaks. I would be happy to provide you with a customized offer upon request.

Trennlinie_weiß.png

 The story of the first ascent

It is unclear whether the Finsteraarhorn was first climbed in 1812 by Arnold Abbühl, Joseph Bortis, and Alois Volkern. They chose a route over the hanging glacier on the eastern flank of the southeast ridge, which has now largely melted away. The first ascent on August 10, 1829, by Jakob Leuthold and Johann Währen, is now considered the first and officially confirmed ascent. Together with glacier researcher Franz Joseph Hugi, who had to remain behind in a saddle that now bears his name due to a foot injury, they reached the highest point via the now-used normal route of the northwest ridge.

Trennlinie_schwarz.png
Südtirolalpin Logo Mountain Guide

MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS

# FINSTERAARHORN # NORMAL ROUTE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE


Brunner Andreas - Südtirolalpin

bottom of page