1861
4,078 m
Leslie Stephen, Peter and Christian Michel, Ulrich Kaufmann
SCHRECKHORN
Southwest Ridge (AD+, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.800,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
At 4,078 meters, the Schreckhorn is the highest peak in the Schreckhorn ridge and also the northernmost four-thousand-meter peak in the Alps. Located in the Aar Massif in the Bernese Oberland, it is composed of Erstfeld gneiss. It is an absolute dream destination for ambitious alpinists and mountaineers. All ascents of this beautifully formed mountain are challenging, and it is also considered the most difficult four-thousand-meter peak in the Bernese Oberland. The wonderful climbing on the normal route, considered one of the most beautiful in the entire Alps, as well as the unique summit experience and panorama are reason enough to visit and climb this mountain. I would be happy to assist you with my expertise and experience, and together we will make this dream come true.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Schreckhorn - Normal Route: The Schreckhorn offers one of the most beautiful normal routes up a four-thousand-meter peak in the Alps. The route chosen by Leslie Stephen, together with Peter and Christian Michel, and Ulrich Kaufmann for their first ascent on August 4, 1861—a steep couloir on the southwest side—has since become very tricky due to melting snow and is only safely accessible in the best firn conditions. Today, a route that runs more on solid rock has established itself as the normal route. Still on the southwest side of the mountain, the route leads via the so-called Kandt up to the southwest ridge, and continues with beautiful and challenging climbing to the main summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Schreckhorn Hut
- Pfingsteggbahn cable car ticket
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernese Oberland
Best time of year:
July - mid-September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Grindelwald - Pfingsteggbahn valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Climbing up to difficulty level III
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good physical condition for challenging climbing at high altitudes and long tours
- No fear of heights
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the Schreckhorn Hut
We meet in Grindelwald, where, after a quick gear check, we'll get a ticket for the Pfingsteggbahn cable car. This will take us up the first part of the climb at a leisurely pace. The remaining ascent to the Schreckhorn Hut takes us approximately 4-5 hours, which passes quite quickly given the beautiful scenery we're passing through. We'll spend the night at the hut after a delicious dinner.
Day 2: Summit Ascent to the Schreckhorn Hut
The second day begins early with breakfast at the hut. Afterwards, we'll ascend, partly on trails, over the Schreckfirn to the south face of the Schrechhorn in 3-4 hours. The most difficult part of the tour now follows, crossing the bergschrund and over several steps through the ridge leading up to the southwest ridge. From there, we continue our ascent with fantastic climbing to the forepeak and then to the main summit. At the summit, we'll enjoy the magnificent panorama of the highest peak on this Schreckhorn ridge. Our subsequent descent is basically similar to the ascent.
The story of the first ascent
The most challenging four-thousand-meter peak in the Bernese Alps was first climbed on August 16, 1861, by Peter and Christian Michel, Leslie Stephen, and Ulrich Kaufmann. After several attempts by various alpinists via the Lauteraarfirn, the north ridge, and the south ridge, it was clear that the Schreckhorn could probably only be conquered from the southwest side. So, the four bivouacked on the Kastenstein, a large gneiss block that forms a small cave, and reached the Schreckfirn the following day via the route they would usually take from then on. They then climbed the south face along the large couloir to the ridge, and in just a few steps, to the summit.
