1861
4,078 m
Leslie Stephen, Peter and Christian Michel, Ulrich Kaufmann
SCHRECKHORN
Southwest Ridge (AD+, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
2.300,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A great, serious mountain in the Bernese Oberland – and a dream objective for anyone who wants to truly earn the Schreckhorn.
4,078 m · Difficulty AD+, III · 3 days · Bernese Oberland
The Schreckhorn, at 4,078 metres, is the highest summit of the Schreckhornkamms and at the same time the northernmost four-thousander in the Alps. It lies in the Bernese Oberland in the Aar massif and is composed of Erstfeld gneiss.
It is an absolute dream objective for ambitious alpinists and mountaineers. All ascents of this beautifully shaped mountain are demanding, and it is also considered the most difficult four-thousander in the Bernese Oberland. The wonderful climbing on the normal route via the Südwestgrat, regarded as one of the finest in the entire Alps, together with a unique summit experience and panorama, is reason enough to pay this mountain a visit and climb it.
I’ll be happy to help you with my expertise and experience, and together we will turn this dream into reality.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Schreckhorn offers one of the finest normal routes on any four-thousander in the Alps. That is exactly what makes this tour so special: it is not simply about reaching a high summit, but about following a line that truly delivers from an alpine point of view.
The route chosen by Leslie Stephen together with Peter Michel, Christian Michel and Ulrich Kaufmann for the first ascent on 4 August 1861 – a steep couloir on the south-west side – has meanwhile become very delicate because of glacial retreat and can now only be climbed safely in the very best firn conditions.
Today, a route that stays more on sound rock has established itself as the normal route. Still on the south-west side of the mountain, it climbs via the so-called Kandt to the Südwestgrat and then continues in fine, engaging climbing to the main summit. It is precisely this combination of serious alpine terrain, a line rich in history, and genuinely excellent climbing that gives this tour on the Schreckhorn its appeal.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Schreckhorn Hut
- Pfingsteggbahn cable car ticket
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernese Oberland
Best time of year:
July - mid-September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Grindelwald - Pfingsteggbahn valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Climbing up to difficulty level III
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good physical condition for challenging climbing at high altitudes and long tours
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
2.300,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Grindelwald, where after a short kit check we get a ticket for the Pfingsteggbahn. This takes us comfortably through the first section uphill. For the remaining ascent to the Schreckhornhütte we need around 4 to 5 hours, which pass quickly enough in this beautiful landscape. After a fine dinner, we will spend the night in the hut.
Walking time: 4.5 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 200 m
⌂ Schreckhornhütte
Day 2: Summit ascent of the Schreckhorn
The second day begins very early with breakfast at the Schreckhornhütte. Afterwards, we ascend partly on traces of path across the Schreckfirn to the south face of the Schreckhorn. The most difficult part of the tour now follows: across the bergschrund and up several steps onto the rib leading up to the Südwestgrat. From there we climb in enjoyable and engaging rock climbing to the fore-summit and then to the main summit. On the summit, we will enjoy the magnificent panorama from the highest peak of the Schreckhorn ridge. Our descent then follows broadly the same line as the ascent.
Walking time: 13 h | ↑ 1,700 m | ↓ 1,700 m | Difficulty: AD+, III
⌂ Schreckhornhütte
Day 3: Descent
After a restful night, yesterday’s tired legs will be recovered enough that the descent back into the valley feels significantly easier. We can then round off our days on the Schreckhorn in a relaxed way and return towards Grindelwald via the known path.
Walking time: 3.5 h | ↑ 200 m | ↓ 1,400 m
Info: Without the cable car, the approach is extended by approx. 1 h and 350 vertical metres.
The story of the first ascent
The most challenging four-thousand-meter peak in the Bernese Alps was first climbed on August 16, 1861, by Peter and Christian Michel, Leslie Stephen, and Ulrich Kaufmann. After several attempts by various alpinists via the Lauteraarfirn, the north ridge, and the south ridge, it was clear that the Schreckhorn could probably only be conquered from the southwest side. So, the four bivouacked on the Kastenstein, a large gneiss block that forms a small cave, and reached the Schreckfirn the following day via the route they would usually take from then on. They then climbed the south face along the large couloir to the ridge, and in just a few steps, to the summit.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
What prerequisites should I have for the Schreckhorn?
For this tour on the Schreckhorn, you should have very good fitness, confident movement in exposed terrain, and solid climbing experience. It is a serious, long ascent in a high-alpine environment and therefore an objective for ambitious mountaineers with a certain grade of experience.
Where do we stay overnight during the tour?
We stay at the Schreckhornhütte, which is the ideal base for summit day. The approach from Grindelwald leads us into an impressive corner of the Bernese Oberland, and from the hut we set off very early towards the summit.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering equipment and good mountain boots; any missing equipment can be hired from us for a small wear-and-tear fee.
