1861
4,078 m
Leslie Stephen, Peter and Christian Michel, Ulrich Kaufmann
SCHRECKHORN
South-west ridge (AD+, III)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
3 days
Schreckhorn – Normalweg
A big, serious mountain in the Bernese Oberland – and a dream objective for all alpinists with big ambitions.
4,078 m · Difficulty AD+, III · 3 days · Bernese Oberland
At 4,078 metres, the Schreckhorn is the highest point of the Schreckhorn ridge and also the northernmost four-thousander in the Alps. It lies in the Bernese Oberland in the Aar Massif and is made of Erstfeld gneiss.
It is an absolute dream objective for ambitious alpinists and mountaineers. Every route up this beautifully shaped mountain is demanding, and it is also considered the most difficult four-thousander in the Bernese Oberland. The wonderful climbing on the normal route via the south-west ridge, regarded as one of the finest in the entire Alps, together with a unique summit experience and panorama, should be reason enough to pay this mountain a visit and climb it.
I will gladly support you with my expertise and experience, and together we will make this dream come true.
THE TOUR
The Schreckhorn offers one of the finest normal routes on any four-thousander in the Alps. That is exactly what makes this tour so special: it is not just about reaching a high summit, but about following a line with real alpine substance.
The route chosen by Leslie Stephen together with Peter Michel, Christian Michel and Ulrich Kaufmann for their first ascent on 4 August 1861 – a steep couloir on the south-west side – has since become very delicate as the snow and ice have melted away, and can now only be climbed safely in the very best firn conditions.
Today a route that runs more on solid rock has become established as the normal route. Still on the south-west side of the mountain, it climbs via the so-called Kandt onto the south-west ridge and continues with fine, engaging climbing to the main summit. It is precisely this combination of serious high-alpine terrain, a line steeped in history and really good climbing that makes this tour on the Schreckhorn so appealing.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- 1x hut overnight stay with half board at the Schreckhornhütte
- Pfingsteggbahn cable car ticket
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (overnight stay, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Tips at your discretion
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Bernese Oberland
Best time of year:
July - mid-September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Grindelwald - Pfingsteggbahn valley station
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Sure-footedness
- Climbing up to grade III
Key to enjoyment
'- Good fitness for demanding climbing at high altitude and a long tour
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends on factors including the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find more information on our rates in our Terms and Conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Grindelwald, where after a quick equipment check we buy a ticket for the Pfingsteggbahn. It takes us comfortably up the first section. For the remaining ascent to the Schreckhornhütte we need about 4 to 5 hours, which pass quite quickly in this beautiful landscape. After a fine dinner we spend the night at the hut.
Walking time: 4.5 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 200 m
⌂ Schreckhornhütte
Day 2: Summit ascent of the Schreckhorn
Day two starts very early with breakfast at the Schreckhornhütte. We then ascend, partly on faint paths, across the Schreckfirn to the south face of the Schreckhorn. Next comes the hardest part of the tour: over the bergschrund and up several steps onto the Kandt, which rises to the south-west ridge. From there we climb on fine, engaging rock to the fore-summit and then to the main summit. On top we enjoy the magnificent panorama from the highest summit of the Schreckhorn ridge. Our descent then essentially follows the same line as the ascent.
Walking time: 13 h | ↑ 1,700 m | ↓ 1,700 m | Difficulty: AD+, III
⌂ Schreckhornhütte
Day 3: Descent
After a restful night, legs tired from the day before are back in good enough shape for the descent to the valley to feel much easier. So we round off our days on the Schreckhorn at a leisurely pace and return towards Grindelwald along the familiar path.
Walking time: 3.5 h | ↑ 200 m | ↓ 1,400 m
Info: Without the cable car, the approach takes about 1 h longer, with an extra 350 m of ascent.
The story of the first ascent
The most demanding four-thousander in the Bernese Alps in mountaineering terms was first climbed on 16 August 1861 by Peter and Christian Michel, Leslie Stephen and Ulrich Kaufmann. After several attempts by various alpinists via the Lauteraarfirn, the north ridge and the south ridge, it was known that the Schreckhorn could probably only be conquered from the south-west side. So the four bivouacked at the Kastenstein, a large gneiss block forming a small cave, and the next day reached the Schreckfirn on what would from then on become the usual route. They then climbed the south face along the great couloir to the ridge and, in a few steps, reached the summit.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
What prerequisites should I have for the Schreckhorn?
For this tour on the Schreckhorn you need very good fitness, confident movement in exposed terrain and solid climbing experience. It is a serious, long ascent in a high-alpine setting and therefore an objective for ambitious mountaineers with the relevant experience.
Where do we stay overnight during the tour?
We stay at the Schreckhornhütte, the ideal base for summit day. The approach from Grindelwald takes us into an impressive corner of the Bernese Oberland, and we set off from the hut very early towards the summit.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering equipment and good mountain boots; any missing equipment can be rented from us for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# SCHRECKHORN # NORMAL ROUTE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE