1859
4,314 m
Charles Joseph Sainte-Claire Deville, Daniel, Emmanuel and Gaspard Balleys, Basile Dorsaz
GRAND COMBIN
Meitingrat (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.800,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A great, massive four-thousander in the Valais Alps that appears on itineraries far too rarely.
Difficulty AD, III · 2 days · Valais Alps
Despite its considerable size and its powerful, impressive appearance, the Grand Combin is a four-thousander that is climbed comparatively seldom and, quite unjustly, is not really on the agenda for many mountaineers. All the more reason to visit this mountain massif draped in mighty icefields.
For many, the sight of the Grand Combin is even one of the finest in the entire Alps, perhaps precisely because it lacks the bold, slender forms of other mountains such as the Matterhorn. Instead, it towers like an impregnable bastion high above almost everything around it.
If you like big mountains with character and do not simply chase famous names, you will find a tour here that leaves a lasting impression. The ascent via the Meitingrat is the right line for anyone who wants to experience this mountain on a serious, logical, and nowadays standard route.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Grand Combin via the Meitingrat is today the slightly more demanding normal route on this great mountain in the Valais Alps. The characteristic ice balconies on Grand Combin, which give it its unmistakable profile, now make an ascent by the classic route, the one also chosen by the first ascent party, a hazardous undertaking.
Time and again, enormous seracs collapse onto the glacier slopes below, where the old ascent routes run. For this reason, the objectively easiest ascents are now largely avoided. As an alternative normal route, the Meitingrat has become established among others: objectively safer, but somewhat more difficult.
That is precisely what makes this line so appealing. The route combines the approach via the Cabane de Valsorey with a varied alpine tour in which glaciated terrain and fine ridge climbing complement each other well. The result is a strong, logical way to reach the summit of this mighty ice giant.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Valsorey Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Walliser Alps
Best time of year:
July - mid-September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Bourg Saint Pierre
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe walking with crampons and ice axe
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good physical condition (on the summit day 1,300 m ascent and 2,200 m descent)
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
1.800,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Bourg Saint Pierre, where we carry out a short gear check and then drive together about 150 vertical metres towards Valsorey. Parking there is very limited. We then begin our ascent through the Valsorey Valley, passing Alpe Cordonne and the alpine hut Chalet d'Amont up to the Valsorey Hut. Here we round off the afternoon in a relaxed way and conserve our strength for summit day.
Total time: 4 h | ↑ 1,250 m
⌂ Valsorey Hut (3,030 m)
Day 2: Grand Combin
We start early the next morning. After breakfast we ascend to the Meitin Glacier and follow it to Col Meitin. Here the Meitingrat begins, leading us in enjoyable ridge climbing up to grade III to the Combin de Valsorey. We then continue over the glacier to the main summit, the Combin de Grafeneire. For the descent there are essentially two options, which we choose depending on conditions: either back along the ascent route or as a traverse of the Grand Combin with descent via the north-west flank beneath the striking ice balconies. With 150 vertical metres of re-ascent to Col Meitin, we regain the Valsorey Hut and continue descending to Bourg Saint Pierre.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 1,300 m | ↓ 2,200 m | Difficulty: AD, III
The story of the first ascent
Like the Monte Rosa massif, the Grand Combin is not a single peak that bears this name, but rather a massif consisting of several peaks. The highest point, the Combin de Grafeneire (4,314 meters), was first reached by a five-man rope team consisting of Deville, the three Balleys brothers, and Dorsatz. Two years earlier, the Englishman William Mathews had already climbed the Combin de la Tsessette (4,134 meters). Not much is known about these first ascents. However, it is a fact that the Cabane de Panossière, built subsequently by the SAC in 1881 on the eastern edge of the Corbassière glacier at 2,770 meters, made tours in this area much easier.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Grand Combin tour suitable for?
The tour is intended for experienced alpine climbers who feel comfortable on a long day in mixed terrain. On the Meitingrat, there are sections of climbing up to III, in addition to the overall length of the outing on the Grand Combin.
How demanding is the ascent via the Meitingrat?
Technically, the ascent is the standard normal route used today, but it is by no means easy. The combination of glacier travel, ridge climbing, and the length of summit day makes the tour a serious undertaking. That is exactly why the Meitingrat is such a strong route on the Grand Combin.
What equipment do I need?
The exact packing list will come with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and warm clothing. Missing equipment can be rented from the Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear-and-tear fee.
