1859
4,314 m
Charles Joseph Sainte-Claire Deville, Daniel, Emmanuel and Gaspard Balleys, Basile Dorsaz
GRAND COMBIN
Meitingrat (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€1,800
for 1 person
Duration:
2 days
Grand Combin – Meitin Ridge
A big, massive four-thousander in the Valais Alps that is on the agenda far too rarely.
Difficulty AD, III · 2 days · Valais Alps
Despite its considerable size and its mighty, impressive appearance, the Grand Combin is a four-thousander that is climbed relatively rarely and, quite undeservedly, is not really on the agenda of many mountaineers. All the more reason to visit this massif, clad in mighty armour of ice.
For many, the sight of the Grand Combin is even one of the most beautiful in the entire Alps – perhaps precisely because it lacks the bold, slender shapes of other mountains such as the Matterhorn. Instead, it towers like an impregnable bastion high above almost everything around it.
If you like big mountains with character and don't just chase famous names, you will find a tour here that leaves a lasting impression. The ascent via the Meitingrat is the right line for anyone who wants to experience this mountain on a serious, logical route that is the usual one today.
THE TOUR
The Grand Combin via the Meitingrat is today the slightly more demanding normal route up this great mountain in the Valais Alps. The characteristic ice balconies on the Grand Combin, which give it its unmistakable face, have now turned an ascent via the classic route – the one chosen by the first ascensionists – into a dangerous undertaking.
Time and again, huge seracs crash down onto the glacier slopes below, where the old ascent routes run. For this reason, what are actually the easiest routes are now largely avoided. The Meitingrat, among others, has established itself as an alternative normal route: objectively safer, but somewhat more difficult.
That is precisely what makes this line so appealing. The route combines the approach via the Cabane de Valsorey with a varied alpine tour in which glacier terrain and fine ridge climbing complement each other perfectly. The result is a superb, logical way to stand on the head of this mighty ice giant.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- All organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- 1x hut night with half board at the Valsorey hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Valais Alps
Best time of year:
July - mid-September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Bourg Saint Pierre
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
-Confident walking with crampons and ice axe
Key to enjoyment
- Good fitness (on the summit day 1,300 m of ascent and 2,200 m of descent)
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€1,800
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Bourg Saint Pierre, where we do a quick gear check and then drive together approx. 150 vertical metres further towards Valsorey. Parking there is very limited. We then start our ascent through the Valsorey valley, past the Alpe Cordonne and the Chalet d'Amont alpine hut, up to the Valsorey hut. Here we let the afternoon wind down at a leisurely pace and save our energy for the summit day.
Total time: 4 h | ↑ 1,250 m ascent
⌂ Valsorey hut (3,030 m)
Day 2: Grand Combin
We set off early the next morning. After breakfast, we climb up to the Meitin Glacier and follow it to the Col Meitin. Here the Meitingrat begins, taking us up the Combin de Valsorey in enjoyable ridge climbing up to grade III. From there, we continue across the glacier to the main summit, the Combin de Grafeneire. For the descent there are essentially two options, which we choose depending on conditions: either back along the ascent route or as a traverse of the Grand Combin, descending via the north-west flank beneath the striking ice balconies. With 150 metres of re-ascent to the Col Meitin, we return to the Valsorey hut and continue down to Bourg Saint Pierre.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 1,300 m ascent | ↓ 2,200 m descent | Difficulty: AD, III
The story of the first ascent
Like the Monte Rosa massif, the Grand Combin is not a single summit bearing this name, but a massif made up of several peaks. The highest point, the Combin de Grafeneire (4,314 metres), was first reached by the five-man rope team of Deville, the three Balleys brothers and Dorsaz. Two years earlier, the Englishman William Mathews had already climbed the Combin de la Tsessette (4,134 metres). Little is known about these first ascents. What is certain, however, is that the Cabane de Panossière, built afterwards by the SAC in 1881 on the eastern edge of the Corbassière Glacier at 2,770 metres, made tours in this area considerably easier.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Grand Combin tour suitable for?
The tour is aimed at experienced alpine mountaineers who feel at home on a long day in mixed terrain. On the Meitingrat, there are sections of climbing up to grade III, on top of the sheer length of the outing on the Grand Combin.
How demanding is the ascent via the Meitingrat?
Technically, the ascent is today's usual normal route, but it is by no means easy. The combination of glacier, ridge and the length of the summit day makes this a serious tour. That is precisely why the Meitingrat is such a strong route up the Grand Combin.
What equipment do I need?
The detailed packing list comes with your confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and warm clothing. Any missing equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# GRAND COMBIN # MEITINGRAT # MOUNTAIN GUIDE # NORMAL ROUTE