
Four-thousanders
CASTOR - POLLUX
South-east ridge (PD) and south-west ridge (PD, II)

Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com

Tour duration:
2 days
Castor und Pollux – Normalwege
Two striking four-thousanders in the Valais Alps, linked into a well-rounded alpine tour across glacier, firn and easy rock.
Difficulty PD, II · 2 days
Castor and Pollux – normal route: The twin summits of Castor and Pollux are often climbed together. They lie between the Breithorn massif and the Liskamm on the border between Italy and Switzerland. Thanks to the cable car up to the Klein Matterhorn, you are spared the long, tiring climb from the valley and can head straight into this fascinating world of glaciers.
Although only around 700 metres of ascent separate the top station from the summit, there is still quite a distance to cover. A few demanding sections, combined with the high altitude and vast crevasse zones, are good reasons for inexperienced mountaineers to rely on the expertise of a mountain guide. That way you can approach the summit far more relaxed and enjoy the surrounding panorama all the more.
Two four-thousanders whose ascent will leave you with fond memories for a long time to come. It is precisely the combination of glacier ascent, easy rock on Pollux and the elegant firn ridge on Castor that makes this tour in the Monte Rosa massif so appealing.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- 1 overnight stay with half board (Rifugio Guide della Val d´Ayas)
- Return cable car ticket: Zermatt - Klein Matterhorn (approx. €105)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Valais Alps
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Zermatt - Matterhorn Express valley station
Requirements
Requirements:
'- Sure-footedness
- Fitness for 1,000 metres of ascent and walking times of 6–7 hours
PRICE
Participants:
1 - 2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Each tour is priced individually.
Among other things, the price depends on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find further information on our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need further information, just add them in the comment field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your request: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
Depends on conditions on the mountain at short notice
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Pollux
We meet at 7:00 am at the valley station of the Matterhorn Express. After a short kit check, we head to the cable car valley station and buy our tickets to the Klein Matterhorn. The Matterhorn Express takes us up comfortably in just under 40 minutes, and the cable car ride alone is truly impressive. As soon as we arrive at the top station, we head out into the world of glaciers. We descend onto the Breithorn plateau and cross the glaciers below the Breithorn summits heading east. Via the Schwarztor col we reach the south-west ridge of Pollux, and follow the rocky ridge to the summit with easy, enjoyable climbing. We then descend to the Rifugio Guide della Val d´Ayas, where we spend the night.
Total time: 5 h | ↑ 500 m | ↓ 900 m | Difficulty: PD, II
⌂ Rifugio Guide della Val d´Ayas
Day 2: Castor
The next morning, the second of the twin summits is on the programme. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off towards the Zwillingsjoch. Via the west flank we reach the summit of Castor. The way back takes us down to the Zwillingsjoch again and beneath the Breithorn summits back to the top station on the Klein Matterhorn. All in all, an enjoyable alpine tour, made truly impressive by the vast panorama of the surrounding peaks, with plenty to offer anyone stepping into the world of four-thousanders.
Total time: 7 h | ↑ 1,100 m | ↓ 900 m | Difficulty: PD
Any changes to the programme that may become necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, availability of accommodation, etc.) are always made in consultation with the participants.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Castor and Pollux tour suitable for?
The tour is suitable for fit mountaineers with some initial experience of alpine tours. You should be able to move confidently in crampons and be sure-footed on easy rock. Climbing experience is especially helpful on Pollux.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
You will receive the detailed kit list with the confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for cold conditions. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Why are Castor and Pollux often combined?
Because the route links the two summits very well. Starting at the Klein Matterhorn, staying overnight at the Ayas Hut and the different characters of Castor and Pollux make for a varied two-day tour.

MOUNTAIN GUIDES FROM SOUTH TYROL
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