1864
4,221 m
Florence Crawford Grove, Melchior Anderegg, Leslie Stephen, Jakob Anderegg
ZINAL ROTHORN
North Ridge (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.800,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A true horn, a proud ridge, and a great alpine tour right in the heart of the Valais Alps.
2 days · Difficulty AD, III
If any mountain deserves the name “Horn”, it is definitely the Zinalrothorn. For this bold and beautiful summit truly rises skyward like a tapering point. Together with the other horns, Obergabelhorn and Weisshorn, it forms a striking trio in the Valais Alps. Completing this panorama is another horn, probably the most famous of them all: the Matterhorn.
These are all great mountains, reserved for experienced alpinists. Climbing experience on rock and ice, experience travelling on crevassed glaciers, and sure-footedness are essential in order to climb this summit safely and confidently. I will support you with route-finding and protection along the way.
This allows you to enjoy this absolute dream tour to the fullest on a (hopefully) perfect day and focus on the excellent climbing on superb rock, whose granite is widely regarded as the finest in all of Valais.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Zinalrothorn – North Ridge: Our tour follows in the footsteps of the first ascensionists, starting from Zinal and climbing the north ridge to the summit of the Zinalrothorn. Although this line never became established as the normal route, it is only slightly more demanding in terms of difficulty.
A somewhat longer hut approach and the easier option of reaching the summit of the Zinalrothorn from the Zermatt side mean that the north ridge sees a little less traffic. On a mountain like this, that is no disadvantage. The rock quality on the entire Zinalrothorn is outstanding, and the climbing on this route on the north side is even a fair bit more impressive.
Of course, there is also the option of a traverse. If that is more what you are looking for, the Zinalrothorn offers wonderful possibilities. Simply mention your wish for a traverse when booking. That way, the tour can be shaped a little differently without losing the character of this great mountain.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Mountet Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Wallis Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Zinal - end of the valley of the Val de Zinal
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe walking with crampons and ice axe on steep firn and safe climbing with crampons on rock
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good physical condition and sufficient acclimatization before the tour
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
1.800,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ascent to the hut
We meet in Zinal, at the end of the valley of the Val de Zinal. Here we carry out a short gear check and set off on the rather long approach to the hut. Once the initial flat section is behind us, however, the ascent becomes much more beautiful, the landscape wilder, and there is plenty to see: rushing streams, steep ice faces, and mighty summits and ridges that we can trace with our eyes make the climb all the more enjoyable.
Before long, the view also opens up to the surrounding peaks with resonant names such as Obergabelhorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Cornier, and of course our objective, the Zinalrothorn. After about five hours we reach the Mountet Hut. On the hut terrace we can recover from the walk in and save our strength for summit day.
Walking time: 5 h | ↑ 1,200 m
⌂ Mountet Hut (2,886 m)
Day 2: Summit of the Zinalrothorn
As always on alpine tours, it is an early start. After breakfast at the hut, we begin our ascent towards the north ridge. Following a good footpath, we cross the lateral moraine to the glacier and then continue up it to the Blanc Ridge. Over a steep snow and firn ridge we reach a marked shoulder, the Épaule. From here begins the rock section of this wonderful ridge.
On superb granite, the route leads over several ridge towers in enjoyable and engaging climbing. Impressive passages, some of which even have to be crossed straddling the ridge, make the ascent a very special tour. Because of the beauty with which the Zinalrothorn presents itself here, we completely lose track of time and suddenly find ourselves on the highest point. The entire procession of the great mountains of Valais rises before our eyes, and we take in the panorama during a well-earned summit break. Afterwards we begin our descent, which roughly follows our line of ascent, and continue back down the valley to Zinal.
Total time: 12 h | ↑ 1,350 m | ↓ 2,550 m | Difficulty: AD, III
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent of the Zinalrothorn was achieved by Leslie Stephen and Florence Crawford Grove, with guides Melchior and Jakob Anderegg, on August 22, 1864, from Zinal via the north ridge. Although the southeast ridge would have been somewhat easier and is now the standard route, they decided to attempt it from the north face. Sir Leslie Stephen had previously been among the first ascents of the Schreckhorn and is considered one of the defining mountaineers of the "golden age of mountaineering." He was also a co-founder of the Alpine Club and served as its president for several years.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Zinalrothorn tour suitable for?
The tour is aimed at experienced alpinists with good fitness and solid rock climbing experience. Glacier experience is also important, because on the Zinalrothorn several serious elements come together: a long approach, an early start, and a demanding summit day.
How strenuous are the two days?
The approach to the Mountet Hut is already a solid first day, and summit day is long. Anyone signing up for the Zinalrothorn should therefore not only be able to climb, but also have very good endurance. In return, a truly beautiful and major alpine tour awaits.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Above all, suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long alpine tour are essential. Technical equipment can be rented from the mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
