1864
4,221 m
Florence Crawford Grove, Melchior Anderegg, Leslie Stephen, Jakob Anderegg
ZINALROTHORN
North ridge (AD, III)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€1,800
for 1 person
Duration:
2 days
Zinalrothorn – North ridge
A true horn with the finest rock for climbing. A demanding alpine tour in the heart of the Valais Alps
2 days · Difficulty AD, III
If any mountain deserves the name "Horn", it is definitely the Zinalrothorn. This bold and beautiful summit really does rise skywards like a soaring spire. Together with the other horns, the Obergabelhorn and the Weisshorn, it forms a striking trio in the Valais Alps. The panorama is rounded off by another horn, probably the most famous of them all: the Matterhorn.
These are all big mountains, but they are reserved for experienced alpinists. Climbing experience on rock and ice, experience of moving on heavily crevassed glaciers and sure-footedness are essential to climb this summit safely and soundly. Route-finding and protection are taken care of by our experienced mountain guides.
This way you can make the most of this absolute dream tour on a (hopefully) perfect day and concentrate on the great climbing on superb rock, which is renowned far and wide as one of the best in the whole of the Valais.
THE TOUR
Zinalrothorn – North Ridge: Our tour follows in the footsteps of the first ascensionists from Zinal via the north ridge to the summit of the Zinalrothorn. Although this route never became established as the normal route, it is only slightly more demanding in terms of difficulty.
A somewhat longer hut approach and the easier option of reaching the summit of the Zinalrothorn from the Zermatt side mean that the north ridge is a little quieter. On a mountain like this, that is no disadvantage. The rock on the whole Zinalrothorn is of superb quality, and the climbing on this north-side route is even a good deal more impressive.
Of course, a traverse is also possible. If that appeals to you more, the Zinalrothorn offers wonderful options. Simply mention that you would like a traverse when booking. That way the tour can be shaped a little differently without losing the character of this great mountain.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- All organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- 1x overnight stay at the Mountet hut with half board
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Valais Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Zinal - head of the Val de Zinal
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
- confident walking with crampons and ice axe on steep firn and confident climbing on rock in crampons
Key to enjoyment
- Good fitness and sufficient acclimatisation before the tour
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€1,800
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Zinal, at the head of the valley of the same name, the Val de Zinal. Here we do a short gear check and set off on the hut approach, which is fairly long in terms of distance. Once we have put the initial flat section behind us, however, the ascent becomes much more beautiful, the landscape wilder, and there is plenty to see: rushing streams, steep ice flanks and mighty summits and ridges that we can trace with our eyes make the climb all the sweeter.
Soon the view also opens up to the surrounding peaks with illustrious names such as the Obergabelhorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Cornier and, of course, our objective, the Zinalrothorn. After about five hours we reach the Mountet hut. On the hut terrace we can recover from the walk and recharge our batteries for the summit day.
Walking time: 5 h | ↑ 1,200 m
⌂ Mountet hut (2,886 m)
Day 2: Zinalrothorn summit
As always on alpine tours, it is an early start. After breakfast at the hut, we begin our ascent towards the north ridge. A good footpath takes us along the lateral moraine to the glacier and up the glacier onto the Blanc ridge. Via a steep snow and firn ridge we reach a prominent shoulder, the Épaule. This is where the rock section of this wonderful ridge begins.
Engaging and enjoyable climbing on the finest gneiss leads us over several ridge towers. Impressive passages, some of which even have to be tackled à cheval, make the ascent a very special tour. The Zinalrothorn shows itself in such beauty here that we lose all track of time and suddenly find ourselves on the highest point. All the great peaks of the Valais rise before our eyes, and we soak up the panorama during a well-earned summit break. We then begin our descent, which roughly follows our ascent route, and continue down to the valley and back to Zinal.
Total time: 12 h | ↑ 1,350 m | ↓ 2,550 m | Difficulty: AD, III
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent of the Zinalrothorn was made by Leslie Stephen and Florence Crawford Grove with the guides Melchior and Jakob Anderegg on 22 August 1864, from Zinal via the north ridge. Although the south-east ridge would have been somewhat easier and is now climbed as the usual normal route, they decided to make an attempt from the north side. Sir Leslie Stephen had previously been among the first ascensionists of the Schreckhorn and is regarded as one of the defining mountaineers of the "golden age of alpinism". He was also a co-founder of the Alpine Club and served as its president for several years.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Zinalrothorn tour suitable for?
The tour is aimed at experienced alpinists with good fitness and solid climbing experience on rock. Glacier experience is also important, because a lot comes together on the Zinalrothorn: a long approach, an early start and a demanding summit day.
How strenuous are the two days?
The approach to the Mountet hut is already a solid first day, and the summit day is long. So anyone signing up for the Zinalrothorn should not only be able to climb, but also have very good stamina. In return, a truly beautiful, big alpine tour awaits.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from the mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# ZINALROTHORN # NORTH RIDGE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE