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1864
4,221 m
Florence Crawford Grove, Melchior Anderegg, Leslie Stephen, Jakob Anderegg

ZINAL ROTHORN

North Ridge (AD, III)

Südtirolalpin Mountain Guide South Tyrol

Südtirolalpin

Certified Mountain Guide

IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations

Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com​​

IFMGA Mountain Guide

Prices from

1.700,- €

THE MOUNTAIN
 

If any mountain deserves the name "Horn," it's definitely the Zinalrothorn. Indeed, this bold and beautiful peak rises toward the sky like a soaring spire. Together with the other Horns, the Obergabelhorn, and the Weisshorn, it forms a striking and imposing triumvirate in the Valais Alps. This incredible panorama is rounded off by another, arguably the most famous horn of all: the Matterhorn. All of them are dream mountains, yet reserved for experienced alpinists and mountaineers. Mastering rope techniques on rock and ice, experience in traversing crevasse-laden glaciers, and knowledge of alpine hazards are essential for climbing this dream mountain safely and soundly. And that's exactly what I'll help you with. This way, you can fully enjoy this absolute dream tour on a (hopefully) absolutely dream day and concentrate solely on the fantastic climbing on the fantastic rock, which is widely known as the best granite in the entire Valais.

ABOUT THE TOUR
 

Zinalrothorn - North Ridge: Our tour follows in the footsteps of the first climbers from Zinal over the north ridge to the summit of the Zinalrothorn. While this ascent hasn't established itself as a standard route since then, it's only slightly more challenging in terms of difficulty. A slightly longer hut approach and a slightly easier way to reach the summit of the Zinalrothorn from the Zermatt side ensure that the north ridge is somewhat less busy. The rock is of outstanding quality along the entire Zinalrothorn anyway, and the climbing on this route on the north side is even more impressive. Of course, a traverse is also possible. If you're more interested in this, there are wonderful opportunities on the Zinalrothorn. Simply express your desire for a traverse when booking.

INFO
 

Services
 

Included in the price:

- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide

- All necessary reservations are made in advance

 

Additional costs:

- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Mountet Hut

- Transfer to and from the meeting point

- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide

- Individual tips

* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)

Facts
 

Location:

Wallis Alps

 

Best time of year:

July - September

 

 

Duration:

2 days

 

Meeting point:

Zinal - end of the valley of the Val de Zinal

What you need
 

Safety-relevant requirements

- Surefootedness

- Safe walking with crampons and ice axe on steep firn and safe climbing with crampons on rock

 

Requirements for enjoyment

- Good physical condition and sufficient acclimatization before the tour

- No fear of heights

PRICING

 

Participants:

 

1 person



Prices:

1 person:

1,700,- €

 

 

 

If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.

 

Dates:

upon request

PROGRAM

Day 1: Mountet Hut Approach
We meet in Zinal, the head of the valley of the same name, Val de Zinal. Here, we'll do a quick gear check and tackle the rather long approach to the hut. However, once the initial flat section is behind us, the climb becomes much more beautiful, the landscape wilder, and there's much to see: rushing streams, steep icy flanks, and mighty peaks and ridges that we can follow with our eyes make the ascent even more enjoyable.

Soon, the view opens up to the breathtaking peaks all around, with resounding names like Obergabelhorn, Dent Blanche, Grand Cornier, and, of course, our destination, the Zinalrothorn. After about five hours, gaining 1,200 meters in altitude, we reach the Mountet Hut. On the hut terrace, we can recover from the hike and recharge our batteries for the summit day.

Day 2: Zinalrothorn Summit
As always, we wake up early, full tilt. After breakfast at the hut, we begin our ascent toward the north ridge. A good footpath leads us along the lateral moraine to the glacier, and then up to the Blanc Ridge. A steep snow and firn ridge leads us to a striking shoulder (éphaule). From here, the rocky part of this wonderful ridge begins. An attractive and enjoyable climb on the best granite leads us over several ridge towers. Impressive passages, some of which we even have to negotiate astride, make the ascent an unforgettable experience. The beauty of the Zinalrothorn makes us lose track of time and we suddenly find ourselves at the highest point. The entire prominence of the Valais mountains unfolds before our eyes, and we take in the panorama during a well-deserved summit rest. We then begin our descent, roughly following the route we used on the ascent.

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 The story of the first ascent

The first ascent of the Zinalrothorn was achieved by Leslie Stephen and Florence Crawford Grove, with guides Melchior and Jakob Anderegg, on August 22, 1864, from Zinal via the north ridge. Although the southeast ridge would have been somewhat easier and is now the standard route, they decided to attempt it from the north face. Sir Leslie Stephen had previously been among the first ascents of the Schreckhorn and is considered one of the defining mountaineers of the "golden age of mountaineering." He was also a co-founder of the Alpine Club and served as its president for several years.

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