
four-thousanders
PIZ BERNINA
Biancograt (AD,III)

Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com

Price from:
€2,200
for 1 person
Duration:
3 days
Piz Bernina – Biancograt
On Piz Bernina, the Biancograt offers one of the great Alpine tours
4,049 m · Difficulty AD, III · 3 days · Engadine
Piz Bernina - Biancograt: the easternmost and only four-thousander in the Eastern Alps and one of the most beautiful firn ridges in the entire Alps. With superlatives like these, Piz Bernina steals the show from the surrounding mountains.
The Biancograt is one of those very special tours in the Alps that belong in every tour logbook – a demanding mixed tour that covers the full spectrum of mountaineering. As if that were not enough, this tour not only traverses Piz Bernina but also takes in Piz Palü, another absolute dream mountain.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- 1x hut overnight stay with half board at the Tschiervahütte
- 1x hut overnight stay with half board at the Marco e Rosa hut
- 1x descent on the Diavolezza cable car
- 1x train ticket (Diavolezza - Pontresina)
- Optional: 1x ticket for the horse-drawn carriage ride through the Val Roseg
- Expenses (overnight stays, cable car, carriage, train ticket) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernina Group
Best time of year:
Mid-June - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Pontresina - railway station
Requirements
Requirements:
- Sure-footedness
- Confident walking in crampons
- Climbing at grade III (UIAA)
- Very good fitness
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€2,200
for 1 person
Depends at short notice on conditions on the mountain
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Ascent to the Tschiervahütte
We meet at Pontresina railway station and hike together through the Val Roseg up to the Tschiervahütte. There is also the option of taking a horse-drawn carriage as far as Hotel Roseg, which shortens the approach considerably.
Walking time: 3.5 h | ↑ 800 m
⌂ Tschiervahütte (2,583 m)
Day 2: Biancograt and Bernina
The next morning we set off early, usually around 3 am depending on the season. First we follow the newly built approach path to the Tschierva Glacier. From there it is a steep climb up to the Fuorcla Prievlusa, then over rock to the start of the Biancograt. Once at Piz Bianco, a demanding grade III rock ridge still awaits before the highest point of Piz Bernina. We descend via the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa hut.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,500 m | ↓ 450 m | Difficulty: AD, III
⌂ Marco e Rosa hut (3,609 m)
Day 3: Piz Palü traverse
On the third day, the icing on the cake is the traverse of Piz Palü via the Spinasgrat. We cross all three summits and descend on the opposite side towards the Diavolezza. From there the cable car takes us back down to the valley, and we return by train to the tour's starting point in Pontresina. This rounds off a grand circuit in the Bernina area featuring two of the biggest names in the Eastern Alps.
Info: On the first day, the approach can be shortened by taking a horse-drawn carriage as far as Hotel Roseg.
Any changes to the programme that may become necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, availability of accommodation, etc.) are always made in consultation with the participants.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Bernina tour via the Biancograt suitable for?
The tour is suitable for experienced mountaineers with plenty of stamina who have already done demanding alpine tours and feel at home on rock, firn and exposed terrain. For the long ridge and the length of the stages, you need very good fitness.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
You need the usual equipment for a demanding alpine tour, above all suitable crampons and a well-fitting harness. The exact packing list comes with your confirmation email. Any missing equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Is the traverse of Piz Palü a fixed part of the tour?
Yes, Piz Palü is part of this circuit as the third day. However, the decisive factors are always the conditions on the mountain and on the route. Especially in the Bernina area, good planning often makes all the difference.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request

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