4000m peaks
Piz Bernina
Biancograt (AD,III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
2.200,- €
ABOUT THE TOUR
On Piz Bernina, the Biancograt awaits — one of those great Alpine routes that stays with you for a long time.
4,049 m · Difficulty AD, III · 3 days · Engadin
Piz Bernina - Biancograt: the easternmost and only four-thousander in the Eastern Alps, as well as probably the most beautiful snow arête in the entire Alps. With superlatives like these, Piz Bernina easily steals the show from the surrounding peaks.
The Biancograt is one of those truly special routes in the Alps that should be in every guidebook — a demanding mixed alpine route covering the full spectrum of mountaineering. As if that were not enough, this tour not only traverses Piz Bernina, but also includes Piz Palü, another absolute dream peak.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Tschierva Hut
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Marco e Rosa Hut
- 1x return trip on the Diavolezza cable car
- 1x train ticket (Diavolezza - Pontresina)
- Optional: 1x ticket for the carriage ride through the Val Roseg
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car, carriage, train ticket) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernina Group
Best time of year:
Mid-June - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Pontresina - train station
What you need
Requirements:
- Surefootedness
- Safe walking with crampons
- Grade III climbing (UIAA)
- Very good physical condition
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
2.200,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
Short-term dependent on the conditions on the mountain
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ascent to Tschierva Hut
We meet in Pontresina at the railway station and ascend together through Val Roseg to Tschierva Hut. There is also the option of taking a horse-drawn carriage to Hotel Roseg, which shortens the approach considerably.
Walking time: 3.5 h | ↑ 800 m
⌂ Tschierva Hut (2,583 m)
Day 2: Biancograt and Bernina
The following morning we set off early, usually around 3 a.m. depending on the season. First we follow the newly laid access path to the Tschierva Glacier. From there, we climb steeply up to Fuorcla Prievlusa, then continue over rock to the start of the Biancograt. Once at Piz Bianco, an exposed rock ridge of grade III still awaits all the way to the summit of Piz Bernina. The descent follows the Spallagrat to Marco e Rosa Hut.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,500 m | ↓ 450 m | Difficulty: AD, III
⌂ Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m)
Day 3: Piz Palü traverse
On the third day, the icing on the cake is the traverse of Piz Palü via the Spinasgrat. We cross all three summits and descend on the far side towards Diavolezza. From there, the cable car brings us back down to the valley, and by train we return to the starting point of the tour in Pontresina. This brings to an end a magnificent circuit in the Bernina area, featuring two of the great names of the Eastern Alps.
Info: There is the option of shortening the approach on the first day by taking a horse-drawn carriage to Hotel Roseg.
Any changes to the program that may be necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, accommodation booking situation, etc.) will always be made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Bernina tour via the Biancograt suitable for?
The tour is suitable for experienced and fit mountaineers who have already completed demanding high-altitude alpine routes and feel comfortable on rock, snow and exposed terrain. For the long ridge and the length of the stages, you need very good fitness.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
You need the standard equipment for a demanding high-altitude alpine route, above all suitable crampons and a well-fitting climbing harness. The exact packing list will be sent with the confirmation email. Missing equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Is the traverse of Piz Palü a fixed part of the tour?
Yes, Piz Palü is included as the third day of this circuit. What always matters, however, are the conditions on the mountain and the conditions along the route. Especially in the Bernina area, good planning often makes the difference.
