4000m peaks
Mont Blanc
Pope's Way - Italian. Normal route (PD, I)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
2500,- €
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Pope Route on Mont Blanc is the quiet, long and serious Italian answer to the bustle on the French normal route.
3 days · Difficulty PD, I
Mont Blanc - Pope Route - normal route via the Italian side: Anyone who dreams of standing on the highest summit in the Alps one day may well have nightmares when thinking of the crowds who try for the summit every day via the French normal route. For all of them, there are two pieces of good news: with the so-called "Pope Route" via the Gonella Hut, there is a very beautiful and rewarding alternative on the Italian side of the mountain to reach the roof of the Alps. People often even forget that, in terms of objective hazards, this variant is the safest route on Mont Blanc.
With these two strong arguments, there must also be a catch, and it clearly lies in the fitness demands placed on mountaineers who choose this route, as well as in having the right glacier conditions. On no other normal route in the entire Alps do you need to start so early and stay on the move for so long as here, and the season is short. Depending on the winter snowpack and temperatures in early summer, the snow bridges over the wildly broken glacier of the Glacier du Dôme may already be gone early in the alpine climbing season, and the route is no longer possible.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 2x half-board accommodations (Gonella Hut and Cosmiques Hut)
- Cable car (Turin Hut - Courmayeur)
- Mountain guide expenses (hut, cable car)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Mont Blanc Massif
Best time of year:
June - mid-July
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Courmayeur - Cable car valley station
What you need
Requirements:
- Excellent fitness for a 1,800-meter ascent at high altitude and an equally long and technically demanding descent
- Good acclimatization (We are happy to offer you an acclimatization package for proper preparation upon request)
- Surefootedness
- Good crampon technique
- Experience in mountaineering
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
2,500,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
Short-term dependent on the conditions on the mountain
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ascent to the Gonella Hut
We meet in Courmayeur at the valley station of the cable car from Courmayeur to the Turin Hut ("Skyway Monte Bianco") and leave one car there. With the second car, we drive into Val Veny to the car park at the end of the drivable road. From here, we begin the scenically beautiful and spectacular ascent to the Gonella Hut. In total, almost 1,500 vertical metres and around 5 hours.
Walking time: 5 h | ↑ 1,500 m
⌂ Gonella Hut
Day 2: Mont Blanc via the Pope Route
The day could hardly begin any earlier. Breakfast at 00:00, then out into the still long night, first by headlamp, steadily uphill across the crevassed Glacier du Dôme. We reach the Piton des Italiens. Then on via the Dôme du Goûter and past the Vallot Bivouac, following the Bosses Ridge to the highest point. On the summit, we will hopefully enjoy the view from Mont Blanc. Afterwards, we begin the long descent, with the technically most demanding sections still ahead of us. Via the Trois Monts Route, passing Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul, we descend to the Cosmiques Hut. Including re-ascent, we must cover almost 2,000 vertical metres of ascent and 1,400 vertical metres of descent in total, plus a considerable distance and, especially on the descent, steep sections that require reserves of strength and concentration right to the very end. We will be on the go for a good 12 hours before we can hopefully toast our summit on the terrace of the Cosmiques Hut.
Total time: 12 h | ↑ 1,950 m | ↓ 1,400 m | Difficulty: PD, I
⌂ Cosmiques Hut
Day 3: Return to Courmayeur
It is not uncommon that in a hut at this altitude we can almost have a lie-in. But after our start at midnight the previous day and the long tour, that is very welcome. On the last day, all that really remains is the return to Courmayeur, and for once we do not need to head out in the middle of the night. We can use the Helbronner cable car in a relaxed manner, weather permitting, and either make our way easily across the glacier to the cable car station. Alternatively, we cross the glacier on foot as far as the Turin Hut and then treat ourselves to the cable car back down to the valley.
Any changes to the program that may be necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, accommodation booking situation, etc.) will always be made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Pope Route on Mont Blanc suitable for?
The tour is suitable for very fit mountaineers with solid experience in high-alpine tours. The Italian normal route is not technically extremely difficult, but it is long, serious and only advisable in good glacier conditions. Above all, the very early start and the long summit day demand strong fitness.
What equipment do I need for this tour?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable crampons and a warm layering system for high-alpine tours. Missing equipment can be hired from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
When are the best conditions for the Pope Route?
The key factors are the conditions on the Glacier du Dôme and the snow bridges. Depending on the winter and early summer, the season on this route can be quite short. If the crevasse zones open up too much, the Pope Route is often no longer sensibly feasible quite early on.
