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1865
3,136 m
Giuseppe Loss

CIMA TOSA

East Flank -Kaminführe (II+)

Südtirolalpin Mountain Guide South Tyrol

Südtirolalpin

Certified Mountain Guide

IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations

Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com​​

IFMGA Mountain Guide

Prices from

390,- €

THE MOUNTAIN
 

It was once the highest peak in the Brenta (Trentino) north of Lake Garda. Today, Cima Tosa has shrunk by 40 meters due to global warming. Before the 2000s, its elevation was reported at 3,173 meters. However, the radical warming since then has caused its ice cap to melt significantly. This allowed the neighboring Cima Brenta to assume the role of Queen of the Brenta and is now the highest peak in this region. Nevertheless, Cima Tosa remains a wonderful Dolomite peak. Especially from the Rifugio Brentei, it presents itself as a magnificent rock formation with long alpine classics for climbers and forbidding rock faces. And for extreme skiers, Cima Tosa also offers one of the most spectacular couloirs in the Dolomites with the "Canalone Nero." A dream mountain in the middle of one of the most beautiful Dolomite regions and a must for anyone who loves such special and adventurous Dolomite climbs.

ABOUT THE TOUR
 

Cima Tosa - Normal Route (II+) via the eastern flank (Kaminführe): The normal route to Cima Tosa has a lot to offer. You approach the mountain from the northwest, arguably its most spectacular side, and then, on the approach to the Rifugio Pedrotti, you'll enter one of the most beautiful and wildest Dolomite regions anywhere. Passing the Campanile Basso and the Crozzon di Brenta, to name just a few of the numerous bold peaks, you'll head into the heart of the Brenta range. Via the Bocca di Brenta, you reach the Rifugio Pedrotti. The actual summit ascent to Cima Tosa then proceeds from the southeast and is not difficult for long stretches (mostly grade I terrain). But a vertical band, crisscrossed by two forbidding chimneys, gives this peak a wild and somber appearance, presenting a challenge too great for most "normal Brenta visitors." Thus, on this tour—in the otherwise fairly well-visited Brenta—you'll generally have peace and quiet. Due to the poor protection and the required knowledge of rope technique, belay station construction, and abseiling, most people steer clear of the summit of Cima Tosa. Fortunately for all those who enjoy climbing the wonderful Dolomite peaks and are looking for precisely this kind of adventurous and pristine route.

INFO
 

Services
 

Included in the price:

- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide

- All necessary reservations are made in advance

 

Additional costs:

- Transfer to and from the meeting point

- Individual tips

* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)

Facts
 

Location:

Brenta Dolomites

 

Best time of year:

July - September

 

 

Duration:

1 day

 

Meeting point:

esinella hut - Madonna di Campiglio

What you need
 

Safety-relevant requirements

surefootedness

 

Requirements for enjoyment

- Fitness for 1,800 meters of altitude

- No fear of heights

PRICING

 

Participants:

 

1-2 people



Prices:

1 person:
2 people:

650,- €
390,- €

 

 

 

If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.

 

Dates:

upon request

PROGRAM

Day 1: Self-guided ascent to Rifugio Pedrotti
The parking lot for the access to the hut is located at the Vallesinella Hut, just above Madonna di Campiglio (during peak times, the parking lot is often full and it's not possible to drive up - therefore, arriving early is recommended). From the parking lot, you can reach the "Bocca di Brenta" via the "Bogani Trail" (No. 318) past the Brentei Hut. Snow often stays here for extended periods and you'll find slightly exposed but secured sections. Beyond this, you'll reach the hut via a beautiful ledge. The approach takes about 3:30 hours.

Day 2: Meeting with the mountain guide and ascent to Cima Tosa
The next morning, we'll meet at the hut. After breakfast, we'll begin the ascent to Cima Tosa together. Most of the trail is not difficult and requires only grade I climbing and surefootedness. However, a vertical ledge prevents the ascent from being an easy undertaking. Two forbidding chimneys lead through the ledge. Thanks to this, it remains a rarely visited peak in the otherwise very popular Brenta range. On the descent, you abseil down this rocky ledge.

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 The story of the first ascent

Cima Tosa was the first major peak ever climbed in the Brenta Dolomites. On July 20, 1865, Giuseppe Loss from the village of Primiero in Trentino reached the summit with five other unknown companions. They approached the mountain from Val d'Ambiez and ascended via Malga Prato, Forcolotta di Noghera, Pozza Tramonana, and Vedretta della Tosa to the base of Cima Tosa. They then climbed the same chimney, which is still considered the easiest ascent to the (now) second-highest peak in the Brenta Dolomites. At that time, it was still the highest peak in the Brenta Dolomites (at 3,173 m). Since the melting of the ice cap, Cima Brenta is now somewhat higher.

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