1865
3,136 m
Giuseppe Loss
CIMA TOSA
East Flank -Kaminführe (II+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
390,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A big, rugged Dolomite summit in the heart of the Brenta, for anyone who loves special and adventurous ascents.
Difficulty II+ · 2 days
For a long time, Cima Tosa was the highest peak in the Brenta in Trentino, north of Lake Garda. Today, due to climate warming, it has shrunk by around 40 metres. Until the 2000s, its elevation was still given as 3,173 metres. Since then, drastic warming has caused its ice cap to melt heavily. As a result, neighbouring Cima Brenta has taken over the role of the queen of the Brenta and is now the highest summit in this region. Nevertheless, Cima Tosa is a wonderful Dolomite peak. Especially from Rifugio Brentei, it presents itself as a magnificent rock giant with long alpine classics for climbers and forbidding rock walls. And for extreme skiers too, Cima Tosa offers one of the most spectacular couloirs in the Dolomites with the “Canalone Nero”. A dream mountain in the middle of one of the most beautiful Dolomite regions, and a must for anyone who loves these special and adventurous Dolomite ascents. The normal route in particular still has that original character that can no longer be found everywhere in the heavily visited Dolomites.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Cima Tosa via the Normalweg through the east face is a truly সুন্দর and original tour in the Brenta Dolomites. You approach the mountain from the northwest, probably its most spectacular side, and even on the hut approach to Rifugio Pedrotti you go deep into the heart of the Brenta. Passing famous rock towers such as Campanile Basso and Crozzon di Brenta, it quickly becomes clear why many consider this area one of the wildest parts of the Dolomites. Via Bocca di Brenta, you reach Rifugio Pedrotti. The actual summit ascent of Cima Tosa then comes from the southeast and is not difficult for long stretches, mostly on easy ground. But a vertical band, split by two forbidding chimneys, gives this summit a wild and serious character after all. For many regular Brenta visitors, that is precisely the crux. As a result, on this tour you will usually enjoy some peace and quiet in the otherwise fairly well-frequented Brenta. Because of the sparse protection and the necessary knowledge of ropework and abseiling, many people give the summit a wide berth. Luckily for those who love climbing wonderful Dolomite peaks and are looking for exactly this kind of adventurous and original route.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Brenta Dolomites
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
esinella hut - Madonna di Campiglio
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
surefootedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for 1,800 meters of altitude
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
650,- €
390,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
The parking area for the hut approach is at Vallesinella Hütte, a little above Madonna di Campiglio. At busy times, the car park is often full and you may no longer be allowed to drive up – so it is best to arrive early enough. From the car park, you follow the Bogani-Weg (No. 318), passing the Brentei Hütte and continuing to Bocca di Brenta. Snow often lingers here for a long time, and there are slightly exposed but protected sections. Beyond this, a fine ledge leads you to Rifugio Pedrotti. The approach takes about 3.5 hours.
Walking time: 3.5 h | ↑ 1,000 m ascent | ↓ 50 m descent
⌂ Rifugio Pedrotti (2,491 m)
Day 2: Summit ascent of Cima Tosa
The next morning, we meet at the hut. After breakfast, we set off together on the ascent of Cima Tosa. Most of the route is not difficult and only requires climbing at UIAA grade I and sure-footedness. However, a vertical rock band prevents the ascent from remaining a simple undertaking. Two steep, forbidding chimneys cut through the band. That is exactly what makes this summit a little quieter and more original in the otherwise very popular Brenta. On the descent, this rock band is also rappelled. Afterwards, we return to Rifugio Pedrotti and continue down to the car park in Vallesinella.
Total: ↑ 650 m ascent | ↓ 1,650 m descent | Difficulty: II+
The story of the first ascent
Cima Tosa was the first major peak ever climbed in the Brenta Dolomites. On July 20, 1865, Giuseppe Loss from the village of Primiero in Trentino reached the summit with five other unknown companions. They approached the mountain from Val d'Ambiez and ascended via Malga Prato, Forcolotta di Noghera, Pozza Tramonana, and Vedretta della Tosa to the base of Cima Tosa. They then climbed the same chimney, which is still considered the easiest ascent to the (now) second-highest peak in the Brenta Dolomites. At that time, it was still the highest peak in the Brenta Dolomites (at 3,173 m). Since the melting of the ice cap, Cima Brenta is now somewhat higher.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How demanding is the normal route on Cima Tosa?
The tour is not technically a walk-up. Most of it follows easy ground, but the key sections are the climbing moves up to II+, the two chimneys, and the rappelling on the descent. If you are sure-footed and already have some climbing experience, it usually works well.
Where do we meet for the tour?
On the first day, you make your own way up to Rifugio Pedrotti. We meet there the following morning at the hut and set off together for the summit of Cima Tosa. This keeps the schedule relaxed, and for summit day we are already right in the proper terrain.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be hired from the Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear-and-tear fee.
