1865
3.136 mt.
Giuseppe Loss
CIMA TOSA
East flank - chimney route (II+)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Cima Tosa – Normalweg
A rugged Dolomite summit in the heart of the Brenta, for anyone who loves adventurous yet long ascents.
Difficulty II+ · 2 days
Cima Tosa was once the highest peak in the Brenta in Trentino, north of Lake Garda. Today, due to climate warming, it has shrunk by around 40 metres. Until the 2000s, its height was still given as 3,173 metres. Since then, however, the drastic warming has caused its ice cap to melt heavily. This allowed neighbouring Cima Brenta to take over the role of queen of the Brenta, and it is now the highest summit in the region. Nevertheless, Cima Tosa is a wonderful Dolomite peak. Especially from Rifugio Brentei, it presents itself as a magnificent rock formation with long alpine classics for climbers and forbidding rock faces. And for extreme skiers, too, Cima Tosa offers one of the most spectacular couloirs in the Dolomites: the "Canalone Nero". A dream mountain in the middle of one of the most beautiful Dolomite regions and a must for anyone who loves such special and adventurous Dolomite ascents. The normal route in particular still has that unspoilt character you no longer find everywhere in the busy Dolomites
THE TOUR
Cima Tosa via the normal route through the east flank is a truly beautiful, unspoilt tour in the Brenta Dolomites. You approach the mountain from the north-west, arguably its most spectacular side, and already on the hut approach to Rifugio Pedrotti you head deep into the heart of the Brenta. Passing famous rock formations such as the Campanile Basso and the Crozzon di Brenta, it quickly becomes clear why many consider this area one of the wildest parts of the Dolomites. Via the Bocca di Brenta you reach Rifugio Pedrotti. The actual summit ascent of Cima Tosa then runs from the south-east and is not difficult for long stretches, mostly on easy terrain. But a vertical band of rock, cut by two forbidding chimneys, gives this summit a wild and serious face after all. For many ordinary Brenta visitors, this is exactly the obstacle. As a result, on this tour you usually have peace and quiet in the otherwise rather busy Brenta. Because of the sparse protection and the required knowledge of rope technique and abseiling, many people give the summit a wide berth. Lucky for all those who love climbing wonderful Dolomite peaks and are looking for exactly this kind of adventurous, unspoilt route.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Brenta Dolomites
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Vallesinella hut - Madonna di Campiglio
Requirements
Safety-relevant
Sure-footedness
Key to enjoyment
'- Fitness for 1,800 metres of ascent
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends, among other things, on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find more information about our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
On request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
The car park for the hut approach is at the Vallesinella hut, a little above Madonna di Campiglio. At peak times the car park is often full and you can no longer drive up – so it is best to arrive early enough. From the car park, the Bogani trail (no. 318) leads past the Brentei hut to the Bocca di Brenta. Snow often lingers here for a long time, and there are slightly exposed but protected sections. Beyond it, a beautiful ledge leads to Rifugio Pedrotti. The approach takes about 3.5 hours.
Walking time: 3.5 h | ↑ 1,000 m | ↓ 50 m
⌂ Rifugio Pedrotti (2,491 m)
Day 2: Summit ascent of Cima Tosa
We meet at the hut the next morning. After breakfast, we tackle the ascent of Cima Tosa together. Most of the route is not difficult and only requires grade I climbing and sure-footedness. However, a vertical band of rock stops the ascent from being a simple undertaking. Two forbidding chimneys lead through the band. This is exactly what makes the summit a little quieter and more unspoilt in the otherwise very popular Brenta. On the descent, we abseil back down over this band of rock. We then return to Rifugio Pedrotti and continue down to the car park in Vallesinella.
Total: ↑ 650 m | ↓ 1,650 m | Difficulty: II+
The story of the first ascent
Cima Tosa was the first major summit ever to be climbed in the Brenta. On 20 July 1865, Giuseppe Loss from the village of Primiero in Trentino reached the summit with 5 other unknown companions. They approached the mountain from the Val d´Ambiez and climbed via Malga Prato, Forcolotta di Noghera, Pozza Tramontana and the Vedretta della Tosa to the foot of Cima Tosa. They then climbed up the same chimney that is still regarded today as the easiest ascent of what is (now) the second-highest summit in the Brenta Dolomites. At that time it was still the highest peak in the Brenta (then 3,173 m). Since its ice cap melted, Cima Brenta is now slightly higher.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How demanding is the normal route on Cima Tosa?
Technically, the tour is no walk in the park. Most of it runs over easy terrain, but the key points are the climbing passages up to II+, the two chimneys and the abseiling on the descent. If you are sure-footed and already have some climbing experience, it usually works out well.
Where do we meet for the tour?
On the first day, you make your own way up to Rifugio Pedrotti. We meet there at the hut the next morning and set off together for the summit of Cima Tosa. This keeps things relaxed, and on summit day we start right in the right terrain.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the full packing list with the confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountain boots and clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# CIMA TOSA # BRENTA # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE