1858
4,545 m
J. Llewellyn Davies, Johannes Zumtaugwald, Johann Kronig, Hieronymus Brantschen
DOM
Festigrat (AD-, II)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€1,800
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
2 days
Dom – Festigrat
The Dom via the Festigrat is a serious alpine tour in the Valais Alps – long and physically demanding
2 days · Difficulty ZS- / AD-, II · Valais Alps
The Dom is the pride of the Swiss mountains. It may not be the highest point in Switzerland, but it is the highest summit that stands entirely on Swiss soil. There may be peaks with bolder shapes, such as the Matterhorn or the Weisshorn, but the Dom certainly has no need to hide in that respect either.
It is actually surprising that this wildly glaciated summit, forbidding on all sides, has a “relatively” moderate ascent route. Calling it an easy four-thousander, however, would be going too far. The mere fact that the entire ascent has to be done under your own steam, without the help of a cable car, makes it a true test of stamina.
A wild, heavily crevassed glacier with large icefalls and overhanging seracs demands good route-finding. The summit also cannot be reached without some rock, so a spell of climbing at this high altitude is required. If you are in good shape, the Dom is a summit objective that will fully live up to every expectation of a beautiful mountain.
THE TOUR
Dom – Festigrat: Our tour follows in the footsteps of the first ascensionists J. Llewellyn Davies, Johannes Zumtaugwald, Johann Kronig and Hieronymus Brantschen, who climbed to the summit via the Festigrat as early as 1858 – during the “golden age of alpinism”. What is particularly impressive is that they accomplished this feat in a single day.
We follow the hiking trail and, just below the Domhütte, climb a rock step secured with wire ropes up to the hut, where we make ourselves comfortable and recharge our batteries for the strenuous second day. Even this approach is no mere warm-up but a substantial part of the tour – and that is exactly what makes the Dom so special.
The next morning we set off early for the Festijoch and continue over the Festigrat to the summit. For the sake of your knees, it is a good idea to split the long descent over two days and perhaps treat yourself to another night at the Domhütte. This turns a very long undertaking into a somewhat more relaxed trip, without losing the character of this great alpine tour.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- All organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- 1 night with half board (Domhütte)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Valais Alps
Best time of year:
July - mid-September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Randa - railway station
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
Key to enjoyment
- Excellent fitness for ascents of up to 1,500 vertical metres at high altitude
- If the tour is done in two days, a descent of more than 3,000 vertical metres also awaits you
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price from
€1,800
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the Domhütte
We meet in Randa at the railway station. If you are arriving by car, you can park in the multi-storey car park right next to it. After a short gear check, we begin the ascent to the Domhütte. Through beautiful scenery, we already gain a lot of height on the first day on the way up to the hut, which we reach after a long but very manageable approach. There we make ourselves comfortable and prepare at our leisure for the big summit day.
Walking time: 4.5 h | ↑ 1,550 m
⌂ Domhütte (2,940 m)
Day 2: Summit via the Festigrat
The alarm wakes us early. After a quick breakfast, we head out into the night. By the light of our headlamps we climb towards the Festijoch. On the way, we are rewarded for the early start with a sunrise that makes you forget a great deal. Once we have also overcome the rock band up to the Festijoch, we follow the Festigrat towards the summit with enjoyable climbing. At the top, a panorama awaits us that is truly second to none on the Dom. Once we have taken it all in, we begin our descent along the normal route back to the Festijoch and down the familiar path to the hut and, depending on our remaining energy, on down to the valley at Randa.
Total time: 12 h | ↑ 1,650 m | ↓ 3,200 m | Difficulty: ZS- / AD-, II
Info: Our tip: When booking, request a second night at the Domhütte straight away. We will then book the extra night for you so that you can split the very long descent over two days. From the summit to the valley it is more than 3,000 vertical metres, which can really take it out of your legs after an ascent of 1,650 vertical metres in the morning. This way you can relax and enjoy your summit success on the hut terrace and descend the next day. It also leaves more than enough time for the journey home.
The story of the first ascent
In the summer of 1858, Davies was spending his holiday in the Mattertal and, with his guide Johannes Zumtaugwald, had already climbed a few smaller peaks. To round things off, he wanted to climb a peak that had never been climbed before. Zumtaugwald brought in Kronig as a second guide. In Randa, the theology student Brantschen joined them at short notice, and the four set off from the village square in Randa at 2:10 a.m. By 8 a.m. they had already reached the Festijoch, where they took a short rest. Via the Festigrat they finally reached the summit at 11 a.m. in perfect autumn weather. By 4:20 p.m. they were back in Randa – a remarkable achievement for the time, considering that nowadays the Dom is almost always climbed over two days.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Dom tour via the Festigrat suitable for?
The tour up the Dom is suitable for fit mountaineers who already have experience on alpine tours and in easy rock terrain. The long approach and the very long summit day demand, above all, good stamina and confident movement in high-alpine terrain.
Can I split up the long descent?
Yes – in fact, it's a very good idea. If you don't want to descend the full 3,200 vertical metres to Randa after the summit, you can request a second night at the Domhütte when booking. This makes the way back much more pleasant.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and a rucksack for the two days. Technical equipment can be rented from the mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# DOM # FESTIGRAT # MOUNTAIN GUIDE