1869
3,145 m
Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler, Peter Salcher
DREISCHUSTERSPITZE
Normal route (III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
700,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Dreischusterspitze is the highest peak in the Sexten Dolomites. A very exclusive summit destination, it offers neither a bivouac box for shelter in case of sudden changes in the weather nor any other options for shortening the tour. Free of via ferratas or marked trails, an ascent of the Dreischusterspitze is reserved only for experienced and fit alpinists. This is precisely why it is one of the few Dolomite peaks where you can still experience a pristine and wild landscape without encountering many other mountaineers. A summit that will be remembered for a long time, and one worth building up a good level of fitness for one day.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Dreischusterspitze - Normal Route: The tour runs from the parking lot along a paved forest road to the Dreischuster Hut. Behind the hut, through mountain pines to the Schusterlahn and across into the gully below the Steinalpen cirque. Now, steeply through the mountain pines into the cirque and onto the Steinalm Scharte. Maintaining altitude on the southeast side of the Dreischusterspitze, the route continues along a wide, sloping ledge to the start. With no real markings and only a few traces of previous climbers, the climb is never particularly difficult, but it is brittle up to the cruxes in the upper part of the route. The exit is just a few meters from the summit cross. The descent follows roughly the same route as the ascent. The three abseils in the upper section of the tour are outside the gully. Almost all of the rest of the route is descended. Back at the start, the long path leads back to the Innerfeldtal valley. Overall, it is a very long and strenuous tour, but precisely for that reason it rewards you with a rarely climbed and exclusive summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
July - August
Duration:
1 day
approx. 12 hours
Meeting point:
Parking at the entrance to the Innerfeldtal
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents
- 1,700 meters of elevation gain
PRICING
PROGRAM
We will arrange a meeting point after booking.
We will drive together to the last parking lot before the Dreischuster Hut.
A quick equipment check and then we set off towards the Dreischuster Hut.
Behind the hut, a long and arduous approach begins, following a path through the mountain pines, leading to the first climbing sections. Only after a total of three hours do we rope up and begin the climb.
Another 600 meters of climbing follow. After a long approach, we reach the summit, so to speak.
A lot of loose scree, no trail markings, and challenging terrain accompany us on our way to the summit.
The crux of the route is in the uppermost part.
At the summit, we are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the Sexten Dolomites, with all their prominent peaks. Finally, we are at the highest point of this mountain range, which also includes the Three Peaks, the Zwölferkofel, and many others.
The descent follows the ascent route. Only a few abseil points and many passages requiring climbing await on the way back to the valley.
The entire tour takes over 10 hours – neither huts nor bivouac boxes shorten this truly unique and one-of-a-kind summit, which is denied to only a few mountaineers.
The story of the first ascent
In the same year as the first ascent of the Sassolungo, on July 18, 1869, Paul Grohmann, along with guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher, succeeded in "conquering" the Dreischusterspitze, about a month earlier. The three-man rope party bivouacked for about an hour and a half above Sesto and then climbed to the summit in about five hours. A remarkable feat, as the route still follows its traces today, and one must put in a lot of effort to avoid taking more time than the pioneers did over 100 years ago.
