1869
3,145 m
Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler, Peter Salcher
DREISCHUSTERSPITZE
Normal route (III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
700,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A wild, original summit in the Sexten Dolomites that demands fitness, experience, and plenty of stamina.
III (UIAA) · 11 h · Sexten Dolomites
Dreischusterspitze is the highest peak in the Sexten Dolomites. A very exclusive summit objective, offering neither a bivouac box for shelter in sudden bad weather nor any other options for shortening the tour. Free of via ferratas and marked trails, an ascent of Dreischusterspitze is reserved for experienced, very fit alpinists only. That is precisely why it is one of the few Dolomite summits where you can still experience an untouched and wild landscape without հանդիպering many other climbers. A summit you will remember for a long time, and one well worth building solid fitness for so that one day you can stand up there. If you enjoy long mountain days where the approach itself is already serious and the summit is not just tagged on casually, this is exactly the right place for you.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Dreischusterspitze – Normal route:
The tour starts from the car park along an initially still-paved forest road to Dreischusterhütte. Behind the hut, the route continues through dwarf pines onto the Schusterlahn and across into the gully below the Steinalpenkar. Then the terrain steepens: through the dwarf pines into the cirque and up to Steinalpscharte. On the south-east side of Dreischusterspitze, the route continues on roughly the same level along a broad, slanting ledge to the start of the climb. Without any real markings and with only a few traces of passage, the route is never especially difficult in technical climbing terms, but it is loose and long, with the crux sections in the upper part of the route. The exit is only a few metres from the summit cross. The descent follows approximately the same line as the ascent. The three abseils in the upper section of the tour run outside the gully; the rest is almost entirely downclimbed. Back at the start of the climb, the long return to Innerfeldtal follows. All in all, it is a very long and demanding tour, rewarded precisely for that reason with a rarely climbed and exclusive summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
July - August
Duration:
1 day
approx. 12 hours
Meeting point:
Parking at the entrance to the Innerfeldtal
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents
- 1,700 meters of elevation gain
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
700,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day tour: Dreischusterspitze
After booking, we will arrange a meeting point together. We then drive by car to the last parking area before the Dreischusterhütte. Brief equipment check, then we set off towards Dreischusterhütte. Behind the hut, a strenuous and long approach begins along a path through dwarf pines to the first climbing sections. Only after around 3 hours do we rope up and start climbing. Another 600 vertical metres of climbing follow. After the long approach, the real crux is still to come, so to speak. Lots of loose scree, no route markings, and demanding terrain accompany us on the way to the summit. The key sections are in the upper part of the route. At the top we are rewarded with a sweeping view across the Sexten Dolomites and all their prominent peaks. In the end, we stand on the highest point of this mountain group, which also includes the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Zwölferkofel, and many others. The descent follows the ascent route. Only a few abseil points and many sections that must be downclimbed await us on the way back into the valley. The entire tour takes more than 10 hours – neither huts nor bivouac boxes shorten this truly special tour, which is reserved for only a few mountaineers.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,650 m | ↓ 1,650 m | Difficulty: III (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
In the same year as the first ascent of the Sassolungo, on July 18, 1869, Paul Grohmann, along with guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher, succeeded in "conquering" the Dreischusterspitze, about a month earlier. The three-man rope party bivouacked for about an hour and a half above Sesto and then climbed to the summit in about five hours. A remarkable feat, as the route still follows its traces today, and one must put in a lot of effort to avoid taking more time than the pioneers did over 100 years ago.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is Dreischusterspitze suitable for?
The tour is intended for experienced, very fit alpinists who feel comfortable in loose, pathless terrain. In addition to good stamina, you also need solid climbing experience at the stated grade.
How long is the day on Dreischusterspitze?
You should expect a very long day. The entire tour takes about 11 hours, plus an early start and a long descent along the ascent route.
What equipment do I need?
You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long day in alpine terrain. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear fee.
