1869
3,145 m
Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler, Peter Salcher
DREISCHUSTERSPITZE
Normal route (III)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€700
for 1 person
Duration:
1 day
Dreischusterspitze – Normal route
A wild, unspoilt summit in the Sexten Dolomites
III (UIAA) · 11 h · Sexten Dolomites
The Dreischusterspitze is the highest summit of the Sexten Dolomites. A very exclusive objective that offers neither a bivouac shelter in case of a sudden change in the weather nor any other way of shortening the tour. With no via ferratas or marked paths, an ascent of the Dreischusterspitze is reserved for experienced, very fit alpinists. That is exactly why it is one of the few Dolomite summits where you can still experience wild, unspoilt landscape without meeting many other climbers. A summit you will remember for a long time, and one worth building up good fitness for so that one day you can stand up there. If you love long undertakings where the approach alone is a serious matter and the summit is not simply ticked off in passing, this is the right place for you.
THE TOUR
The Dreischusterspitze – normal route:
From the car park, the tour follows a forest road, initially still tarmacked, to the Dreischusterhütte. Behind the hut, the route leads through dwarf pines onto the Schusterlahn and across into the gully below the Steinalpenkar. Then the terrain steepens: through the dwarf pines into the cirque and up to the Steinalpscharte. On the south-east side of the Dreischusterspitze, we traverse at the same height along a broad, sloping ledge to the start of the climb. With no real waymarks and only a few traces of previous ascents, the route is never particularly difficult technically, but it is loose and long, with the crux sections in its upper part. The top of the climb is just a few metres from the summit cross. The descent roughly follows the ascent route. The three abseils in the upper part of the tour run outside the gully; almost all the rest is downclimbed. Back at the start of the climb, the long walk back to the Innerfeldtal follows. All in all, it is a very long and gruelling tour, which is precisely why it rewards you with a rarely climbed and exclusive summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
July - August
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Car park at the entrance to the Innerfeldtal
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Grade III climbing
- Sure-footedness, including on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Very good fitness for a long day of climbing with a strenuous ascent and descent
- 1,700 metres of ascent
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€700
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day tour: Dreischusterspitze
After booking, we will arrange a meeting point. Together we drive to the last car park before the Dreischusterhütte. After a quick equipment check, we set off towards the Dreischusterhütte. Behind the hut, a long, tiring approach begins along a path through the dwarf pines to the first climbing sections. Only after around 3 hours do we rope up and start climbing. Another 600 metres of climbing follow. After the long approach, this is the icing on the cake, so to speak. Lots of loose scree, no waymarks and demanding terrain accompany us on the way to the summit. The crux sections are in the uppermost part of the route. At the summit, we are rewarded with a sweeping view across the Sexten Dolomites and all their famous peaks. After all, we are standing on the highest point of this mountain group, which also includes the Drei Zinnen, the Zwölferkofel and many more. The descent follows the ascent route. Just a few abseils and many sections that have to be downclimbed await us on the way back to the valley. The whole tour takes more than 10 hours – there are neither huts nor bivouac shelters to shorten this truly special tour, which remains reserved for just a few mountaineers.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,650 m | ↓ 1,650 m | Difficulty: III (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
In the same year as the first ascent of the Langkofel, and about a month earlier, Paul Grohmann "conquered" the Dreischusterspitze on 18 July 1869 together with the guides Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher. The three-man rope team bivouacked about an hour and a half above Sexten and then reached the summit in around five hours. A remarkable achievement, because the route still follows their tracks today, and you really have to put your back into it not to take longer than the pioneers did over 100 years ago.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Dreischusterspitze suitable for?
The tour is intended for experienced, very fit alpinists who feel at home on loose, pathless terrain. As well as good stamina, you also need solid climbing experience at the stated grade.
How long is the day on the Dreischusterspitze?
You should expect a very long day. The whole tour takes about 11 hours, plus an early start and a long descent along the ascent route.
What equipment do I need?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long day in alpine terrain. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# DREISCHUSTERSPITZE # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE