1854
3,851 m
Stephan Steinberger
KÖNIGSSPITZE
Normal route (AD, 45°)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€900
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
2 days
Königsspitze – Normal route
Of the three great peaks high above Sulden, the Königsspitze is probably the most impressive in appearance
3,851 m · Difficulty AD, 45° · 2 days · Ortler Alps
The mighty rock mass of the Ortler, although the highest of the three, has a far less impressive shape than the slender, steep and bold Königsspitze. Climbing it is correspondingly demanding.
In summer, the objective danger of rockfall is high, so there is usually only a short window for a safe ascent. The summer melt-out in particular can significantly increase the risk of rockfall.
Nevertheless – or precisely because of this – the Königsspitze holds a very special appeal for us mountaineers, and many dream of one day standing on the summit of this beautifully shaped peak, which is also the second-highest mountain in South Tyrol.
THE TOUR
The Königsspitze is one of the most striking mountains in the Ortler Alps – slender, steep and with a line you recognise instantly, even from afar. Of the trio formed with the Ortler and the Zebru, it is for many the most beautifully shaped summit. That is exactly what makes it so appealing, but also what gives it its serious character.
From the Forno basin, we head up to the Pizzinihütte, where we spend the night. The next morning, we climb across the Cedec Glacier towards the shoulder. Depending on conditions, the route leads over firn or, once the snow has melted out, over rock. Steep slopes then lead up to the upper shoulder and on to the ridge. On the normal route up the Königsspitze in particular, good conditions are crucial, because the risk of rockfall rises quickly in summer. For this reason, we only guide this tour until early July - or mid-July at the latest, depending on conditions and snow cover.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Overnight stay at the Pizzinihütte
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (overnight stay) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Ortler Alps
Best time of year:
June - July
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Car park in the Forno basin (Valfurva)
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Glacier experience
- Confident walking in crampons
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Very good fitness for a long day requiring maximum concentration
- 1,150 metres of ascent on summit day
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price from
€900
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the Pizzinihütte
The meeting point for the Königsspitze is in the Forno basin. Parking is chargeable – note: you have to buy the ticket further down, before the narrow road leading into the Forno basin. From the car park, we follow the access road at a leisurely pace for about two hours to the Pizzinihütte. The approach is deliberately easy, giving us time to arrive at our own pace, settle into the hut and prepare for the next day. We spend the night at the Pizzinihütte, right at the starting point for summit day.
Walking time: 2 h | ↑ 550 m
⌂ Pizzinihütte (2,706 m)
Day 2: Summit day on the Königsspitze
On the second day, we head from the Pizzinihütte into the Forno basin and on to the Cedec Glacier. We climb a steep firn slope – or, once the snow has melted out, a rock flank – to the lower shoulder. From here, wearing crampons, we continue up firn slopes of up to 45° to the upper shoulder and onto the summit ridge. From there, it is a short way to the summit of the Königsspitze.
The descent follows our ascent track back to the Cedec Glacier and from there over easy moraine terrain back to the Pizzinihütte, then, after a short break for refreshments, on to the car park. On the Königsspitze in particular, good conditions are crucial, because the route quickly becomes much trickier as the snow melts out in summer.
Total time: 8.5 h | ↑ 1,150 m | ↓ 1,650 m | Difficulty: AD, 45°
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent by Stephan Steinberger in 1854, who is said to have reached the summit from the Stelvio Pass via the south face of the Königsspitze, remains disputed to this day. His route involved 2,750 metres of ascent and a distance of 24 kilometres, which he supposedly covered in 18 hours. Louis Philipp Friedmann, an Austrian alpinist, tried to retrace the route in 1892 and, despite good conditions, needed much longer. He considered Steinberger's account implausible. More recent findings, however, also speak in Steinberger's favour. For one thing, conditions in 1854 were probably much better; for another, he described the view from the summit very accurately.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How demanding is the Königsspitze?
The Königsspitze is a serious alpine tour with steep firn slopes of up to 45° and, depending on conditions, loose sections once the snow has melted out. Good fitness, confident walking in crampons and experience on alpine tours are important.
Where do we stay overnight on this tour?
We stay at the Pizzinihütte in the Forno basin. This is ideal for this tour, because on summit day we set off on the route directly from the hut and return there after the descent.
What equipment do I need to bring?
The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# KÖNIGSSPITZE # NORMAL ROUTE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE