1854
3,851 m
Stephan Steinberger
KÖNIGSSPITZE
Normal route (AD, 45°)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
540,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Königsspitze is, among the trio of Ortler, Zebru and Königsspitze, probably the mountain with the most striking appearance.
3,851 m · Difficulty AD, 45° · 2 days · Ortler Alps
The mighty rock mass of Ortler, although the highest of the three, has a far less impressive shape than the slender, steep and bold Königsspitze. Accordingly, its ascent is demanding as well.
In summer, the objective hazards from rockfall are considerable, so there is usually only a short weather and condition window for a safe ascent. Summer snow melt in particular can significantly increase the rockfall risk.
Even so – or perhaps precisely because of this – Königsspitze exerts a very special pull on us mountaineers, and many dream of standing one day on the summit of this beautifully shaped and at the same time second-highest mountain in South Tyrol.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Königsspitze is one of the most striking mountains in the Ortler Alps – slender, steep, and with a line you recognise instantly even from far away. In the trio with Ortler and Zebru, it is for many the most beautifully shaped summit. That is exactly what gives it its appeal, but also its serious character.
From the Fornokessel we head to the Pizzini Hut, where we spend the night. The following morning, we ascend via the Cedec Glacier towards the shoulder. Depending on conditions, the route leads over snow or, once the mountain is more snow-free, over looser rock. After that, the steep slopes rise to the upper shoulder and then continue to the ridge. On the normal route up Königsspitze in particular, good conditions are essential, because the risk of rockfall increases quickly in summer.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Overnight stay at the Pizzini Hut
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (overnight stay)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Ortler Mountains
Best time of year:
June - July
Duration:
2 days
Summit day 8 hours
Meeting point:
Parking at the valley station of the cable car in Sulden
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Glacier experience
- Safe walking with crampons
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of intense concentration
- 1150 meters of elevation gain on summit day
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
900,- €
540,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the Pizzini Hut
The meeting point for Königsspitze is in the Fornokessel. The car park is subject to a fee – note: the ticket must already be purchased lower down before the narrow road leading into the Fornokessel. From the car park, we follow the access road at an easy pace for around two hours to the Pizzini Hut. The approach is intentionally straightforward and gives us time to arrive calmly, settle into the hut and prepare for the following day. We spend the night at the Pizzini Hut, right at the starting point for summit day.
Walking time: 2 h | ↑ 550 m
⌂ Pizzini Hut (2,706 m)
Day 2: Summit day on Königsspitze
On the second day, we go from the Pizzini Hut into the Fornokessel and continue onto the Cedec Glacier. Via a steep snow slope, or a rock flank if the mountain is already snow-free, we climb to the lower shoulder. From here, wearing crampons, we continue along snow slopes up to 45° steep to the upper shoulder and onto the summit ridge. From there, it is only a short distance to the summit of Königsspitze.
The descent follows the ascent track back to the Cedec Glacier and from there through easy moraine terrain to the Pizzini Hut, then after a short refreshment break onward to the car park. On Königsspitze in particular, good conditions are crucial, because the route quickly becomes much more delicate once summer snow melt sets in.
Total time: 8.5 h | ↑ 1,150 m | ↓ 1,650 m | Difficulty: AD, 45°
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent by Stephan Steinberger in 1854, who is said to have reached the summit from the Stilfser Joch via the southern flank of the Königsspitze, remains disputed to this day. His route included an ascent of 2,750 meters and a distance of 24 kilometers, which he allegedly completed in 18 hours. Louis Philipp Friedmann, an Austrian alpinist, attempted to retrace the route in 1892 and, despite good conditions, took much longer. He found Steinberger's account implausible. However, more recent findings also support Steinberger's claim. Firstly, conditions were likely much better in 1854, and secondly, he described the view from the summit very accurately.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How demanding is Königsspitze?
Königsspitze is a serious alpine mountaineering tour with steep snow slopes up to 45° and, depending on conditions, also loose sections once the mountain is snow-free. Good fitness, confident movement in crampons and experience on alpine tours are important.
Where do we stay overnight on this tour?
We stay overnight at the Pizzini Hut in the Fornokessel. This is ideal for the tour because on summit day we set off directly from the hut into the route and return there again after the descent.
What equipment do I need to bring?
The exact packing list will be sent with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear-and-tear fee.
