1854
3,851 m
Stephan Steinberger
KÖNIGSSPITZE
Normal route (AD-)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
550,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Of the trio of Ortler, Zebru, and Königsspitze, it is the mountain with the most impressive appearance. The mighty boulder of the Ortler, although the highest of the three, has a considerably less imposing shape than the slender, steep, and bold Königsspitze. Climbing it is correspondingly challenging. In summer, the objective dangers from rockfall are great, so there is usually only a short window of opportunity for a safe ascent. In winter, safe skiing in constantly falling terrain is absolutely essential. Despite this—or perhaps precisely because of this—the Königsspitze holds a very special appeal for us mountaineers, and many dream of one day standing on the summit of this beautifully shaped mountain, which is also the second highest in South Tyrol.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Königsspitze - Normal Route: The meeting point for the tour is in Sulden, at the valley station of the cable car to the Schaubachhütte, which we take for a leisurely ascent of the first 600 meters. From the Schaubachhütte, we continue on foot. We aim for the Suldenspitze glacier, cross it, and reach the Casatihütte (overnight accommodation). After a further 500 meters of descent, we reach the Pizzinihütte, where we will spend the night. The following day, we have just over 1,100 meters of elevation gain ahead of us to reach the summit. First, we follow a well-marked trail to the Cedecferner (Vedretta del Gran Zebru) and then over a steep firn slope (over steep, brittle rock when the snow melts) to the lower shoulder. From here, we follow firn slopes with an incline of over 40° to the upper shoulder, continuing onto the ridge and over this, with impressive views down into the north face, shortly before reaching the summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Overnight stay at the Pizzini Hut
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (overnight stay)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Ortler Mountains
Best time of year:
June - July
Duration:
2 days
Summit day 8 hours
Meeting point:
Parking at the valley station of the cable car in Sulden
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Glacier experience
- Safe walking with crampons
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of intense concentration
- 1150 meters of elevation gain on summit day
PRICING
PROGRAM
Meeting point at an agreed time at the cable car parking lot to the Schaubach Hut in Sulden.
A quick equipment check, then we take the cable car to the Schaubach Hut.
From the Schaubach Hut, we'll cross the glacier to the Suldenspitze and then continue to the Casati Hut. Alternatively, we'll cross the Eisseespitze and the Eissee Pass to the Casati Hut (3-4 hours). We'll spend the night either here or at the much more comfortable Pizzini Hut—but this will require another 500 meters of descent (+1 hour).
On the second day, from the hut, we'll ascend to the Cedec Glacier and climb a steep firn or rocky slope to the lower shoulder.
From here, we'll continue with crampons along firn slopes with inclines of up to 45° to the upper shoulder and further to the summit ridge. The summit is a short walk. 4-5 hours from the hut.
Descent along the ascent trail to the Cedec Glacier. Then traverse along the trail to below the Casati Hut. 300 meters of ascent and descent to Sulden. (approx. 4 hours descent)
Total tour duration approx. 8 hours.
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent by Stephan Steinberger in 1854, who is said to have reached the summit from the Stilfser Joch via the southern flank of the Königsspitze, remains disputed to this day. His route included an ascent of 2,750 meters and a distance of 24 kilometers, which he allegedly completed in 18 hours. Louis Philipp Friedmann, an Austrian alpinist, attempted to retrace the route in 1892 and, despite good conditions, took much longer. He found Steinberger's account implausible. However, more recent findings also support Steinberger's claim. Firstly, conditions were likely much better in 1854, and secondly, he described the view from the summit very accurately.
