1864
3,343 m
Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dimai, Fulgenzio Dimai
MARMOLADA
Normal route (A)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€600
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
1 day
Marmolada – Normal route
The Marmolada is the Queen of the Dolomites - no more words needed
Difficulty WS, A/B · 7.5 h · Dolomites
The Marmolada is a mountain of superlatives: the highest mountain in the Dolomites and also the one with the largest glacier – although the glacier is now suffering badly from global warming.
Its mighty south face drops more than 800 metres sheer. An El Dorado for alpine climbers. Its rock quality is among the best in the entire Dolomites, mainly because it is made not of dolomite but of limestone. Even so, it is the heart of the Dolomites and is called the Queen for good reason.
THE TOUR
Marmolada - normal route
The normal route up the Marmolada takes us from the Fedaia reservoir first along hiking trails and then across the glacier into the basin between Punta Rocca and our objective, Punta Penia. A short via ferrata follows; after that we continue over ice and firn fields to the highest point of the Marmolada. Right on the summit stands the Capanna Punta Penia, the highest hut in the Dolomites.
The very special highlights of this tour are not a difficult via ferrata or an imposing glacier, but the panorama this Dolomite landscape has to offer. Particularly impressive is the view down onto the glacier with the Fedaia reservoir below it on one side – and the Marmolada south face, dropping 800 metres sheer, on the other. All around, more mighty Dolomite faces and bold spires create that very special Dolomite atmosphere. The fact that the route combines glacier and via ferrata makes for plenty of variety and a thoroughly rewarding day.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Marmolada massif
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Fedaia reservoir car park
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
Key to enjoyment
- Fitness for 1,300 metres of ascent on rough terrain
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
max. 3 people
Price from
€600
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day tour: Up Punta Penia
We arrange a meeting point and travel there together, or meet directly at the Fedaia reservoir. After a short gear check, we are ready to go. From the car park we climb towards Pian dei Fiacconi and beyond it cross the Marmolada glacier to the start of the via ferrata. Passing old relics from the First World War, we follow the via ferrata, with moderate difficulties, towards the summit of Punta Penia.
All in all, this is a tour with 1,300 vertical metres in mixed terrain that calls for a good level of fitness, stamina and sure-footedness. A wonderful mountain tour that combines glacier travel with an easy via ferrata. The fact that this tour ends on the Marmolada, the highest point in the Dolomites, is a special highlight and promises a magnificent summit panorama. The descent follows the ascent route.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 1,300 m | ↓ 1,300 m | Difficulty: WS, A/B
Info: Since the Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi was destroyed on 5 December 2020, it has remained closed until further notice. It will probably be rebuilt at a new location at some point. For this reason, this tour is only possible as a day tour until further notice.
The story of the first ascent
As early as 1802, three priests (Don Giovanni Costadedòi, Don Giuseppe Terza, Don Tommaso Pezzei), a surgeon (Hauser) and an episcopal judge (Peristi) are said to have reached the summit ridge near Punta di Rocca from Passo Fedaia. Another group followed in 1852. Neither, however, reached the highest point. John Ball's alleged ascent in 1860 was also disproved by Paul Grohmann, who verifiably reached the highest point of Punta Rocca in 1862. Finally, on 28 September 1864, together with Angelo and Fulgenzio Dimai, he made the first ascent of Punta Penia, 35 metres higher, and thus of the highest point of the Queen of the Dolomites.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
What do I need to bring for the Marmolada?
For the tour to Punta Penia you need good fitness for around 1,300 metres of ascent, sure-footedness and an enjoyment of mixed terrain. Experience on easy alpine tours or via ferratas is helpful so that you feel at ease on the glacier and on the via ferrata.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
Above all, you need suitable mountain boots and weatherproof clothing. The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email. Technical equipment such as crampons can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Why is the tour currently only possible as a day tour?
The Rifugio Pian dei Fiacconi was destroyed in 2020 and is closed until further notice. As a result, there is currently no practical hut overnight stay on this route, and the Marmolada is currently climbed as a day tour from the Fedaia reservoir.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# MARMOLADA # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE