1864
3,343 m
Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dimai, Fulgenzio Dimai
MARMOLADA
Normal route (A)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
270,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Marmolada is the Queen of the Dolomites – a great mountain with a glacier, a mighty south face, and exactly that distinctive character you won’t forget in a hurry.
· Difficulty WS, A/B · 7.5 h · Dolomites
Marmolada is a mountain of superlatives: the highest peak and at the same time the mountain with the largest glacier in the Dolomites – although it has by now suffered considerably from global warming.
Its immense south face drops more than 800 metres sheer into the void. An Eldorado for alpine climbers. Its rock quality is among the best in the entire Dolomites; this is mainly because it is composed not of dolomite but of limestone. Even so, it forms the heart of the Dolomites and is rightly known as the Queen.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Marmolada - Normal Route
The normal route on Marmolada leads us from Lago di Fedaia first along hiking trails and across the glacier into the basin between Punta Rocca and our goal, Punta Penia. A short via ferrata follows; afterwards we continue over ice and névé slopes to the highest point of Marmolada. Right on the summit stands Capanna Punta Penia, the highest mountain hut in the Dolomites.
The truly special highlights of the tour are not found in a difficult via ferrata or an imposing glacier, but in the panorama this Dolomite landscape has to offer. Particularly impressive is the view down onto the glacier with Lago di Fedaia lying below it on one side – and the 800-metre vertically dropping Marmolada-Südwand on the other. All around, further mighty Dolomite walls and bold rock spires create that very special Dolomite atmosphere. The fact that the route combines glacier travel and via ferrata makes for plenty of variety and a thoroughly rewarding day.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Marmolada massif
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Fedaia Reservoir parking lot
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for 1,300 meters of elevation gain on rough terrain
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
max. 3 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
3 people:
600,- €
360,- €
270,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day tour: Ascent of Punta Penia
We arrange a meeting point and travel together, or meet directly at Lago di Fedaia. After a short gear check, we set off. From the car park we ascend towards Pian dei Fiacconi and then continue across the Marmolada Glacier to the start of the via ferrata. Passing old war relics from the First World War, we follow the via ferrata, with moderate difficulties, towards the summit of Punta Penia.
All in all, this is a tour with 1,300 metres of ascent in mixed terrain, requiring a good level of fitness, stamina, and sure-footedness. A wonderful mountain day that combines glacier travel with an easy via ferrata. The fact that this tour finishes on Marmolada – at the highest point in the Dolomites – is a special highlight and promises a magnificent summit panorama. The descent follows the ascent route.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 1,300 m | ↓ 1,300 m | Difficulty: WS, A/B
Info: After the Pian dei Fiacconi Hütte was destroyed on 5 December 2020, it has remained closed until further notice. It will presumably be rebuilt at a new location at some point. For this reason, this tour is only possible as a day tour until further notice.
The story of the first ascent
As early as 1802, three priests (Don Giovanni Costadedòi, Don Giuseppe Terza, Don Tommaso Pezzei), a surgeon (Hauser), and an episcopal judge (Peristi) are said to have reached the ridge at Punta di Rocca from Passo Fedaia. Another group did so in 1852. However, neither of them reached the highest point. John Ball's alleged ascent in 1860 was also refuted by Paul Grohmann, who verifiably reached the highest point of Punta Rocca in 1862. Finally, on September 28, 1864, he, together with Angelo and Fulgenzio Dimai, succeeded in making the first ascent of Punta Penia, 35 meters higher and thus the highest point of the Queen of the Dolomites.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
What prerequisites should I have for Marmolada?
For the tour to Punta Penia you need good fitness for around 1,300 metres of ascent, sure-footedness, and enjoyment of mixed terrain. Experience on easy alpine glacier routes or via ferratas is helpful so that you feel comfortable on the glacier and on the via ferrata.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and weatherproof clothing. The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email. Technical equipment such as crampons can be rented from the Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Why is the tour currently only possible as a day tour?
The Pian dei Fiacconi Hütte was destroyed in 2020 and remains closed until further notice. Therefore, there is currently no sensible hut overnight option on this route, and the ascent of Marmolada is presently done as a day tour from Lago di Fedaia.
