1864
3,343 m
Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dimai, Fulgenzio Dimai
MARMOLADA
Normal route (A)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
270,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Marmolada is a mountain of superlatives: the highest and also the one with the largest glacier in the Dolomites – although this glacier has suffered considerably from global warming. Its massive south face plunges more than 800 meters vertically into the depths. It is an El Dorado for alpine climbers. Its rock quality is among the best in the entire Dolomites, primarily due to the fact that it is made of limestone rather than dolomite. Nevertheless, it forms the heart of the Dolomites and is not called the Queen for nothing.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Marmolada - Normal Route: The normal route to the Marmolada leads us from the Fedaia Reservoir, first along hiking trails and across the glacier into the cirque between Punta Rocca and our destination, Punta Penia. A short via ferrata (A) follows, before we continue over ice and snowfields to the highest point of the Marmolada. Directly at the summit stands the Capanna Punta Penia, the highest mountain hut in the Dolomites.
The tour's truly special highlights aren't to be found in a difficult via ferrata or an imposing glacier, but rather in the stunning panorama that this unique Dolomite landscape has to offer. Particularly impressive is the view down onto the glacier with the Fedaia Reservoir below on one side – and the 800-meter-high vertical south face on the other. All around, other towering Dolomite walls and bold needles create that very special Dolomite atmosphere. The fact that the route combines both glacier and via ferrata ensures plenty of variety and a thoroughly successful day.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Marmolada massif
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Fedaia Reservoir parking lot
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for 1,300 meters of elevation gain on rough terrain
- No fear of heights
PRICING
PROGRAM
We'll arrange a meeting point and travel together or meet directly at the Fedaia reservoir. After a quick gear check, we're ready to set off.
From the parking lot, we ascend toward Pian dei Fiacconi and then cross the glacier to the start of the via ferrata. Passing old World War I relics, we follow the via ferrata with moderate difficulty (A/B) toward the summit of Punta Penia. Overall, this tour covers 1,300 meters of elevation gain in mixed terrain, requiring a good level of fitness, stamina, and surefootedness.
A wonderful mountain tour that combines glacier crossing with an easy via ferrata in a breathtaking setting. The fact that this tour ends on the Marmolada, the highest point in the Dolomites, is a special highlight and promises a unique summit panorama.
The descent follows the ascent route.
*Please note: Following a large avalanche on December 5, 2020, which hit and destroyed the Pian dei Fiacconi Hut, it will remain closed until further notice. It will likely be rebuilt at a new location (at some point). Therefore, this tour is only available as a day trip until further notice.
The story of the first ascent
As early as 1802, three priests (Don Giovanni Costadedòi, Don Giuseppe Terza, Don Tommaso Pezzei), a surgeon (Hauser), and an episcopal judge (Peristi) are said to have reached the ridge at Punta di Rocca from Passo Fedaia. Another group did so in 1852. However, neither of them reached the highest point. John Ball's alleged ascent in 1860 was also refuted by Paul Grohmann, who verifiably reached the highest point of Punta Rocca in 1862. Finally, on September 28, 1864, he, together with Angelo and Fulgenzio Dimai, succeeded in making the first ascent of Punta Penia, 35 meters higher and thus the highest point of the Queen of the Dolomites.
