1877
3,984 m
Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau, Pierre Gaspard (father and son)
MEIJE
Traverse (D-, IV-)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
2.500,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Meije is the secret majesty of the Dauphiné. While it may not be the highest peak in this mountain range, surpassed by the Barre des Ecrins by just over a hundred meters, its impressive form certainly doesn't have to hide. It is best described as an elegant rock face with a unique shape, towering high above the white expanses of glaciers. It is considered one of the most difficult high peaks in the Alps. The difficulty of climbing it even surpasses that of the Aiguille Verte, considered one of the most challenging four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps. In addition, there are rustic and lovingly run huts around the Meije, which stand in stark contrast to the mass processing in the Mont Blanc region or on the Matterhorn. The reason for this, in addition to the rather demanding route, is probably the fact that this dream mountain doesn't receive nearly as much attention in German-speaking countries as it could. Fortunately, one must say.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Meije - Traverse: The ultimate tour of Her Majesty is definitely the complete traverse. Incredible rock, glaciers, aerial ridge climbing, abseils, and ice gullies demand the complete skills of an alpinist. The starting point is the village of La Grave on the north side of the massif. From here, the venerable La Grave cable car takes you up to the Premier Troncon. From there, a rather challenging approach follows via the Breche de la Meije to the Promontoire Hut. Depending on the weather forecast and your sense of adventure, you have the opportunity to enjoy the wonderful climb along the Promontoire Ridge with its excellent rock in the afternoon sunshine and even climb to the Glacier Carré for a bivouac. A unique and unforgettable experience under a clear starry sky high above the Dauphiné. If the weather forecast is uncertain, or if you want a proper dinner and a comfortable bed for the night, we will stay in the rustic, family-run Promontoire Hut. The next morning, by headlamps, we climb most of the ridge to the Glacier Carré and then on to the highest point, the Grand Pic. The route continues over several ridge climbs to the Doigt de Dieu, offering once again wonderfully varied terrain and exquisite ridge climbing. From the Doigt de Dieu, after several abseils down to the glacier, we reach the historic Aigle, our base for another night. On the third day, we begin the long descent back to the valley, followed by a taxi ride back to the starting point in La Grave.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Cable car ticket from La Grave to Premier Troncon
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Refuge de Promontoire
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Refuge de l'Aigle
- 1 taxi ride from Point Vieux ou des Brebis back to La Grave
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, cable car)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Dauphin
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
La Grave - cable car valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Confident walking and climbing with crampons
- Rock climbing up to grade IV-
- Very good physical condition for long days in challenging terrain (the Promontoire Hut - Meije - Aigle crossing is rated at 10-15 hours)
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the Promontoire Hut
We will arrange our arrival individually and, if possible, we will also travel together. Otherwise, we will meet in the morning directly at the parking lot by the La Grave cable car, where we will conduct a quick equipment check and then purchase a ticket for the ascent to the mid-station at 2,400 meters. From here, our already quite challenging approach to the Promontoire Hut begins. Initially descending slightly, we soon climb over rocky passages to the Glacier de la Meije and then continue to the Breche de la Meije. Over this pass, we reach the Glacier des Etancons and shortly reach the hut. We will definitely stop here for a break. Depending on the planned tour, we will relax on the terrace or continue climbing to the Glacier Carré that same afternoon to bivouac there.
Day 2: Meije Traverse
We wake up early at the Promontoire Hut, and after a quick breakfast, we set off directly from the hut entrance in the ropes. The climb begins halfway to the hut toilet and leads over excellent rock and entertaining climbing along well-known and memorable passages such as the Couloir Duhael, Pyramide Duhamel, dalle Castelnau, dalle Autrichiens, and Pas du Cat to the Glacier Carre. The crux of the climb is a slab with small ledges, rated IV-, and requires a determined grip with a heavy backpack and bulky hiking boots. The climb continues across the glacier to the summit of the Grande Pic, the main peak of the Meije. We enjoy the panorama and will soon set off again, as we still have a long way to go over several ridge towers. First, however, we must abseil several times on the north side of the summit into the Breche Zsigmondy and bypass the first ridge tower, the Dent Zsigmondy, in an ice gully. We climb the remaining towers on excellent rock until we finally reach the final summit, the Doigt de Dieu. After a few more abseils, we reach the Glacier du Tabuchet. Passing massive crevasses, we descend to the Refuge de l'Aigle, where we leisurely end the long and strenuous day.
Day 3: Descent from the Refuge de l'Aigle back to La Grave
The next morning, we're in no hurry and can enjoy breakfast to the fullest – a rarity on high-altitude tours. Afterwards, we face a long and, especially in the upper section, quite challenging descent back to the valley. A fantastic tour that will certainly be unforgettable comes to an end. What remains are impressions and experiences that no one can take away from us, and which will resonate with us for a long time after such tours.
The story of the first ascent
The Meije has an exciting first ascent history. After several failed attempts, the Grand Pic was finally reached for the first time on August 16, 1877, by Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau and his father and son guides, Pierre Gaspard. The three climbed via the Promontoire Ridge to the Glacier le Carré and continued up the southwest face of the summit structure to the highest point. Thus, the Meije became one of the few high French peaks to be first climbed by local guides. Another milestone was the first longitudinal traverse from the Grand Pic to the Pic Central by Ludwig Purtscheller and the brothers Emil and Otto Zsigmondy on July 27, 1885. Just a few days later, Emil Zsigmondy fell to his death while attempting to climb the south face of the Meije. With him perished one of Austria's most famous mountaineers.
