1877
3.984 mt.
Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau, Pierre Gaspard (father and son)
MEIJE
Traverse (D-, IV-)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€2,500
for 1 person
Duration:
3 days
Meije – Traverse
An elegant rock peak that makes a far greater impression than many a higher neighbour
3 days · Difficulty D-, IV- · Écrins Massif
The Meije is the secret queen of the Dauphiné. It is not the highest summit of this mountain group, since the Barre des Écrins tops it by a little over a hundred metres, but with its impressive shape it certainly has no need to hide. It is best described as an elegant wall of rock with a unique form, rising high above white glacier fields.
It is considered one of the most difficult high summits in the Alps. The difficulties of an ascent even exceed those of the Aiguille Verte, which is regarded as one of the most demanding four-thousanders in the Alps. On top of that, there are rustic, lovingly run huts around the Meije.
It is usually fairly quiet here. Besides the rather demanding route, the reason is probably also that this dream mountain gets nowhere near the attention it deserves in the German-speaking world. Fortunately, one has to say.
THE TOUR
The Meije Traverse is the classic king's route on Her Majesty – and without doubt the complete traverse. Superb rock, glaciers, airy ridge climbing, abseils and ice gullies demand an alpinist's full repertoire. The starting point is the village of La Grave on the north side of the massif. From here the venerable cable car of La Grave takes us up to the Premier Tronçon. This is followed by an already fairly demanding hut approach via the Brèche de la Meije to the Promontoire Hut.
Depending on the weather forecast and our appetite for adventure, there is the option of enjoying the wonderful climbing along the Promontoire Ridge, with its excellent rock, in the afternoon sun and climbing on as far as the Glacier Carré to bivouac there. A unique experience under a clear starry sky high above the Dauphiné. If the forecast is uncertain, or if we fancy a proper dinner and a comfortable bed for the night, we stay at the rustic, family-run Promontoire Hut.
The next morning we climb most of the ridge by the light of our headtorches up to the Glacier Carré and on to the highest point, the Grand Pic de la Meije. The onward route over several ridge steps to the Doigt de Dieu once again offers wonderfully varied terrain and the finest ridge climbing. From the Doigt de Dieu, after several abseils down to the glacier, we reach the historic Refuge de l'Aigle, our base for another night, before the long descent back to the valley and a taxi ride back to the starting point in La Grave await on the third day.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Cable car ticket from La Grave to Premier Tronçon
- 1x overnight hut stay with half board at the Refuge de Promontoire
- 1x overnight hut stay with half board at the Refuge de l´Aigle
- 1x taxi ride from Pont des Brebis back to La Grave
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Dauphiné
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
La Grave - cable car valley station
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
- Confident walking and climbing in crampons
- Rock climbing up to grade IV-
- Very good fitness for long days in demanding terrain (the traverse Promontoire Hut - Meije - Aigle is given as 10-15 hours)
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Good acclimatisation
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€2,500
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We will arrange the journey individually and, where possible, travel together. Otherwise we meet in the morning directly at the car park by the cable car in La Grave, where we do a quick kit check and then buy a ticket for the ride up to the middle station. From here our already fairly demanding approach to the Promontoire Hut begins. Descending slightly at first, then across rocky terrain, we reach the Glacier de la Meije and continue to the Brèche de la Meije. Crossing this col, we reach the Glacier des Étançons and shortly afterwards the hut. We will definitely stop here. Depending on the planned tour, we either relax on the terrace or climb on that same afternoon to the Glacier Carré to bivouac there.
Walking time: 4 h | ↑ 950 m | ↓ 250 m
⌂ Promontoire Hut (3,092 m)
Day 2: Meije traverse
We are woken early at the Promontoire Hut and, after a quick breakfast, set off roped up straight from the hut door. The climbing begins almost immediately and leads on superb rock with entertaining climbing along well-known passages such as the Couloir Duhamel, Pyramide Duhamel, Dalle Castelnau, Dalle des Autrichiens and Pas du Chat to the Glacier Carré. The crux is a slab with small edges at grade IV-, which calls for a determined grip with a heavy rucksack and clumpy mountaineering boots. We continue across the glacier to the summit block of the Grand Pic de la Meije, the main summit of the Meije. We enjoy the panorama but soon move on again, as a long way over several ridge towers still lies ahead of us. First we abseil several times on the north side of the summit into the Brèche Zsigmondy and bypass the first ridge tower, the Dent Zsigmondy, via an ice gully. The remaining towers are climbed over on superb rock until we finally stand on the last summit, the Doigt de Dieu. After a few more abseils we reach the Glacier du Tabuchet. Past huge crevasses we descend to the Refuge de l'Aigle, where we let the long and strenuous day draw to a relaxed close.
Walking time: 10-12 h | ↑ 1,100 m | ↓ 750 m | Difficulty: D-, IV-
⌂ Refuge de l'Aigle (3,450 m)
Day 3: Descent to La Grave
The next morning there is no rush and we can enjoy breakfast to the full – a rarity on alpine tours. Afterwards a long descent back to the valley lies ahead, which is fairly demanding, especially in the upper section. And so a superb tour comes to an end. What remains are impressions and experiences that no one can take away from us and that resonate for a very long time after tours like this.
Walking time: 3 h | ↓ 1,800 m
The story of the first ascent
The Meije has an exciting first-ascent history: after numerous failed attempts, the Grand Pic was first reached on 16 August 1877 by Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau together with the guides Pierre Gaspard (father and son). The three climbed via the Promontoire Ridge to the Glacier le Carré and continued up the south-west face of the summit block to the highest point. This made the Meije one of the few high French peaks to be first climbed by local guides. Another milestone was the first traverse along the ridge from the Grand Pic to the Pic Central by Ludwig Purtscheller with the brothers Emil and Otto Zsigmondy on 27 July 1885. Only a few days later, Emil Zsigmondy fell to his death while attempting to climb the south face of the Meije. With him died one of the best-known Austrian mountaineers.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Meije traverse suitable for?
The tour is intended for experienced alpinists who feel at home in mixed terrain and already have solid climbing experience. The Meije is long, demanding and serious – and that is exactly what makes it so appealing. If you are unsure whether the tour is right for you, it is best to clarify this together in advance.
Do we always stay overnight at the Promontoire Hut?
Not necessarily. As a rule, we spend the night at the Promontoire Hut and later at the Refuge de l'Aigle. Depending on the weather, conditions and plan, however, it can also make sense to continue to the Glacier Carré on the first day and bivouac there.
What equipment do I need?
You will receive the detailed kit list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for high-alpine terrain. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
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