1877
3,984 m
Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau, Pierre Gaspard (father and son)
MEIJE
Traverse (D-, IV-)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
2.500,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A wild, elegant rock mountain that makes a far greater impression than many a higher neighbour.
3 days · Difficulty D-, IV- · Écrins Massif
La Meije is the hidden majesty of the Dauphiné. It may not be the highest summit in this mountain group, as it is topped by the Barre des Écrins by a little over one hundred metres, but with its striking shape it certainly has no need to hide. It is best described as an elegant rock wall of unique form, rising high above white glacier fields.
It is considered one of the most difficult high summits in the Alps. The challenges of an ascent even surpass those of the Aiguille Verte, which is regarded as one of the most demanding four-thousanders in the Alps. Added to this are the rustic, lovingly run huts around La Meije, standing in stark contrast to the mass processing found in the Mont Blanc area or on the Matterhorn.
The reason, besides the rather demanding route, is probably also the fact that this dream mountain receives nowhere near the attention in the German-speaking world that it could. Thankfully, one has to say.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Meije Traverse is the king line on Her Majesty – and definitely the full traverse. Superb rock, glaciers, airy ridge climbing, abseil points and ice gullies demand the complete repertoire of an alpinist. The starting point is the village of La Grave on the north side of the massif. From here, the venerable cable car of La Grave takes us to the Premier Tronçon. From there follows an already quite demanding hut approach via the Brèche de la Meije to the Promontoire Hut.
Depending on the weather forecast and appetite for adventure, there is the option of enjoying the wonderful climbing along the Promontoire Ridge with its excellent rock in the afternoon sun and climbing on to the Glacier Carré to bivouac there. A unique experience under a clear starry sky high above the Dauphiné. If the forecast is uncertain, or if we prefer a proper evening meal and a cosy bed for the night, we stay in the rustic, family-run Promontoire Hut.
The next morning, we climb most of the ridge by headtorch up to the Glacier Carré and onwards to the highest point, the Grand Pic de la Meije. The continuation over several ridge steps to the Doigt de Dieu once again offers wonderfully varied terrain and the finest ridge climbing. From the Doigt de Dieu, after several abseils down to the glacier, we reach the historic Refuge de l'Aigle, our lodging for another night, before on the third day the long descent back into the valley and a taxi ride back to the starting point in La Grave await.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Cable car ticket from La Grave to Premier Troncon
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Refuge de Promontoire
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Refuge de l'Aigle
- 1 taxi ride from Point Vieux ou des Brebis back to La Grave
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, cable car)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Dauphin
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
La Grave - cable car valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Confident walking and climbing with crampons
- Rock climbing up to grade IV-
- Very good physical condition for long days in challenging terrain (the Promontoire Hut - Meije - Aigle crossing is rated at 10-15 hours)
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
2.500,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We will arrange the journey individually and, where possible, travel together. Otherwise, we meet in the morning directly at the car park by the cable car in La Grave, where we carry out a short equipment check and then get a ticket for the ascent to the mid-station. From here begins our already quite demanding approach to the Promontoire Hut. First slightly descending, then across rocky terrain, we reach the Glacier de la Meije and continue to the Brèche de la Meije. Over this col we gain the Glacier des Étançons and shortly afterwards the hut. We will definitely stop here. Depending on the planned tour, we either relax on the terrace or continue climbing that same afternoon to the Glacier Carré to bivouac there.
Walking time: 4 h | ↑ 950 m | ↓ 250 m
⌂ Promontoire Hut (3,092 m)
Day 2: Meije traverse
We are woken early in the Promontoire Hut, and after a short breakfast we set off directly from the hut entrance, roped up. The climbing begins almost immediately and follows superb rock and enjoyable climbing along well-known passages such as Couloir Duhamel, Pyramide Duhamel, Dalle Castelnau, Dalle des Autrichiens and Pas du Chat to the Glacier Carré. The crux is a slab with small edges at grade IV-, and with the heavy rucksack and clumsy mountaineering boots it calls for committed climbing. Across the glacier we continue to the summit section of the Grand Pic de la Meije, the main summit of La Meije. We enjoy the panorama, but will soon move on again, as a long way still lies ahead over several ridge towers. First, we must abseil several times on the north side of the summit into the Brèche Zsigmondy and bypass the first ridge tower, the Dent Zsigmondy, in an ice gully. The remaining towers are then climbed again on superb rock until we finally stand on the last summit, the Doigt de Dieu. After several more abseil sections, we reach the Glacier du Tabuchet. Past huge crevasses, we descend to the Refuge de l'Aigle, where we round off the long and strenuous day in comfort.
Walking time: 10-12 h | ↑ 1,100 m | ↓ 750 m | Difficulty: D-, IV-
⌂ Refuge de l'Aigle (3,450 m)
Day 3: Descent to La Grave
The next morning there is no rush, and we can enjoy breakfast to the full – a rarity on alpine tours. Afterwards, there is still a long descent back into the valley, one that is quite demanding, especially in the upper section. And so an outstanding tour comes to an end. What remains are impressions and experiences that no one can take away from us, and which continue to resonate for a very long time after tours like this.
Walking time: 3 h | ↓ 1,800 m
The story of the first ascent
The Meije has an exciting first ascent history. After several failed attempts, the Grand Pic was finally reached for the first time on August 16, 1877, by Emmanuel Boileau de Castelnau and his father and son guides, Pierre Gaspard. The three climbed via the Promontoire Ridge to the Glacier le Carré and continued up the southwest face of the summit structure to the highest point. Thus, the Meije became one of the few high French peaks to be first climbed by local guides. Another milestone was the first longitudinal traverse from the Grand Pic to the Pic Central by Ludwig Purtscheller and the brothers Emil and Otto Zsigmondy on July 27, 1885. Just a few days later, Emil Zsigmondy fell to his death while attempting to climb the south face of the Meije. With him perished one of Austria's most famous mountaineers.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Meije traverse suitable for?
The tour is intended for experienced alpinists who are comfortable in mixed terrain and already bring solid climbing experience. La Meije is long, demanding and serious – and that is exactly what makes it so appealing. If you are unsure whether the tour suits you, the best thing is for us to clarify it together in advance.
Do we always stay at the Promontoire Hut?
Not necessarily. As a rule, we spend the night at the Promontoire Hut and later at the Refuge de l'Aigle. Depending on the weather, conditions and plan, however, it can also make sense to continue to the Glacier Carré on the first day and bivouac there.
What equipment do I need?
You will receive the exact packing list in the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for high alpine terrain. Technical equipment can be hired from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
