1861
3,841 m
Michel Croz, Jean Baptiste Croz, William Mathews, Fredrik Jacomb
MONTE VISO
South face (III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
960,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Monte Viso towers over all surrounding peaks by more than 500 meters. With a proud height of over 3,800 meters, it is also the southernmost mountain in the Alps, exceeding the 3,500-meter mark. For this reason, Monte Viso is visible from afar, stands out so prominently in the beautiful landscape of Piedmont, and has long been known in Italy as "Re di pietra," or "King of Stone." It is a dream peak in the Western Alps and a magnificent touring destination for any ambitious mountaineer. But reaching the summit is hard work. There is no easy standard route, and the ascent to the top of Monte Viso leads through challenging terrain, but is nevertheless very varied and entertaining, and takes in breathtaking scenery. Those who dare will be rewarded with an exclusive and impressive summit, a highlight in any touring book.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Monte Viso - South Face: Our route takes us up the south side of Monte Viso via the normal route to the summit. From our base camp, the Rifugio Quintino Sella, there are several passages equipped with via ferratas, but the majority of them require self-protection. This is easy scrambling terrain, mostly rated grades I and II. A few sections requiring grade III add a little spice to the route. Overall, a wonderful tour on an absolutely dream mountain with a varied ascent in an incomparable setting and a magnificent panorama at the summit of one of the most free-standing peaks in the entire Alps.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at Rifugio Quintino Sella
- Parking fees at Pian del Re
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, parking)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Cottian Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Pian della Regina - Parking
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Climbing up to UIAA grade III
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for a long day of summiting with high-altitude climbing
- No fear of heights
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to Rifugio Quintino Sella
We meet at the parking lot at Pian della Regina and continue together to the paid parking lot a little higher at Pian del Re. There, we'll have a quick gear check and then begin our ascent toward Rifugio Quintino Sella. After about 15 minutes, we'll pass the official source of Italy's largest river, the Po. Our path takes us past the northern cliffs of Viso Mozzo and over vast scree slopes to the refuge, which we reach after almost 3 hours and 600 meters of elevation gain.
Day 2: Summit Day Monte Viso
Depending on the season, we'll set off around 4 a.m. with breakfast. We then descend to Lago Grande di Viso. Our further path leads us uphill over scree on the eastern flank, partially secured as a via ferrata, to Passo delle Sagnette. Cairns mark the way forward, and we reach the Andreotti bivouac at 3,420 meters across several snowfields. Shortly thereafter, the climb (up to UIAA grade III) begins on the south flank, leading us to the summit. From the highest point, we have a fantastic view of this very free-standing peak. We will thoroughly enjoy our summit victory before returning to the valley along our ascent route.
The story of the first ascent
The sting must have been deep among the Italians when, on August 30, 1861, the Englishman William Mathews, together with Fredrik Jacomb and the experienced mountain guide Michel Croz and his brother Jean Baptiste, succeeded in the first ascent of their symbolic mountain. Moreover, in his report, Mathews had nothing good to say about those who considered the mountain inconquerable. If one believes his accounts, the biggest problem wasn't the climb itself, but the question of what provisions to bring: "In Casteldelfino, we had to make do with veal alone; Michel Croz himself had to search the stables in search of eggs, and we were initially refused wine because there were no bottles to refill on site." The tour itself is then described only very briefly in the report.
