1861
3,841 m
Michel Croz, Jean Baptiste Croz, William Mathews, Fredrik Jacomb
MONTE VISO
South face (III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
960,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Monte Viso is one of those mountains that towers above everything else even from far away, and for exactly that reason it has long been known as the “Re di pietra” – King of Stone.
2 days · Difficulty PD, UIAA III
Monte Viso rises more than 500 metres above all surrounding summits. At a proud height of over 3,800 metres, it is also the southernmost mountain in the Alps to break the 3,500-metre mark. For this reason, Monte Viso is visible from far and wide and stands out dramatically in the landscape of Piedmont. In Italy, it has therefore long been referred to as the “Re di pietra”, the “King of Stone”.
It is a dream peak in the Western Alps and a magnificent objective for any ambitious alpinist. But the summit must be earned. There is no easy normal route, and the ascent to the top of Monte Viso leads through demanding, yet highly varied and engaging terrain. Those who are up to it are rewarded with an exclusive and impressive summit that is a highlight in any mountaineer’s logbook.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Our route follows the south face of Monte Viso via the normal route to the summit. From our base, Rifugio Quintino Sella, there are several sections to negotiate that are secured as a via ferrata; however, the greater part of the route is protected by the mountain guide. This is easy scrambling terrain, mostly in grade I and II. A few sections reaching grade III add a little spice to the route.
All in all, this is a beautiful climb on an absolute dream mountain, with a varied ascent and strong alpine character. The appeal of Monte Viso lies precisely in the combination of approach, scree, protected sections, snowfields and climbing. Added to that is the panorama from the summit of one of the freestanding mountains in the entire Alpine arc. If you like classic Western Alps routes and have set your sights on a special summit, this is exactly the right objective.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at Rifugio Quintino Sella
- Parking fees at Pian del Re
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, parking)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Cottian Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Pian della Regina - Parking
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Climbing up to UIAA grade III
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for a long day of summiting with high-altitude climbing
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
1.600,- €
960,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet at the car park near Pian della Regina and continue together to the paid car park a little higher up at Pian del Re. Here we do a short equipment check, and then begin our ascent towards Rifugio Quintino Sella. After about 15 minutes, we pass the official source of Italy’s longest river, the Po. Our path leads along the northern faces of Viso Mozzo and over large scree slopes to the mountain hut, which we reach after just under 3 hours and around 600 metres of ascent.
Walking time: 2.5 h | ↑ 600 m
⌂ Rifugio Quintino Sella (2,640 m)
Day 2: Summit day on Monte Viso
Depending on the season, we start breakfast at around 4 a.m. Afterwards, we descend to Lago Grande di Viso. Our route then continues over scree on the east flank, partly protected by fixed cables, up to Passo delle Sagnette. Cairns mark the way ahead, and across several snowfields we reach Bivacco Andreotti. Shortly afterwards, the climbing on the south flank begins and leads us all the way to the summit of Monte Viso. From this very prominent summit, we enjoy a superb panorama. We take time to savour the summit success before returning to the valley along our ascent route.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 2,000 m | Difficulty: PD, UIAA III
The story of the first ascent
The sting must have been deep among the Italians when, on August 30, 1861, the Englishman William Mathews, together with Fredrik Jacomb and the experienced mountain guide Michel Croz and his brother Jean Baptiste, succeeded in the first ascent of their symbolic mountain. Moreover, in his report, Mathews had nothing good to say about those who considered the mountain inconquerable. If one believes his accounts, the biggest problem wasn't the climb itself, but the question of what provisions to bring: "In Casteldelfino, we had to make do with veal alone; Michel Croz himself had to search the stables in search of eggs, and we were initially refused wine because there were no bottles to refill on site." The tour itself is then described only very briefly in the report.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How difficult is Monte Viso via the normal route?
Monte Viso is not an easy mountain hike. The tour requires stamina, confident movement in alpine terrain and climbing experience on easy rock. On summit day, we move through a combined alpine climb with climbing sections up to UIAA III.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
We stay at Rifugio Quintino Sella, the ideal base for the ascent of Monte Viso. From there, we set off very early on summit day, which simply makes sense for such a long and demanding tour.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list in the confirmation email. The most important items are suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from the Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear-and-tear fee.
