1861
3,841 m
Michel Croz, Jean Baptiste Croz, William Mathews, Fredrik Jacomb
MONTE VISO
South face (III)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
2 days
Monte Viso – Normalweg
Monte Viso is one of those mountains that towers above everything even from afar, which is why it has always been called the "Re di pietra" – King of Stone.
2 days · Difficulty PD, UIAA III
Monte Viso rises more than 500 metres above all the surrounding summits. At a proud height of over 3,800 metres, it is also the southernmost mountain in the Alps to break the 3,500-metre mark. As a result, Monte Viso is visible from far and wide and stands out dramatically in the landscape of Piedmont. That is why in Italy it has always been called the "Re di pietra", the "King of Stone".
It is a dream summit in the Western Alps and a magnificent objective for any ambitious alpinist. But the summit has to be earned. There is no easy normal route, and the ascent to the top of Monte Viso leads up through demanding yet very varied and engaging terrain. Those who are up to the challenge are rewarded with an exclusive and impressive summit that is a highlight in any tour book.
THE TOUR
Our route takes us up the south face of Monte Viso via the normal route to the summit. From our base, Rifugio Quintino Sella, there are a few passages to master that are equipped as a via ferrata; most of the route, however, is belayed by the mountain guide. It is easy scrambling terrain, mostly grade I and II. A few spots that call for grade III give the route a little extra spice.
All in all, this is a beautiful tour on an absolute dream mountain, with a varied ascent and a strong alpine character. It is precisely the mix of approach, scree, protected passages, firn fields and climbing that makes Monte Viso so appealing. On top of that comes the panorama from the summit of one of the most free-standing mountains in the entire Alps. If you love classic Western Alps tours and have set your heart on a special summit, this is the one for you.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- 1x hut overnight stay with half board at Rifugio Quintino Sella
- Parking fees at Pian del Re
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (overnight stay, parking) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Cottian Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Pian della Regina - car park
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Sure-footedness
- Climbing up to UIAA grade III
Key to enjoyment
'- Fitness for a long summit day with climbing at high altitude
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends on factors including the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find further information on our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Hut approach
We meet at the car park at Pian della Regina and drive on together to the pay car park a little higher up at Pian del Re. Here we do a short equipment check and then start our ascent towards Rifugio Quintino Sella. After about 15 minutes we pass the official source of Italy's longest river, the Po. Our path leads along the north walls of Viso Mozzo and across large scree slopes to the hut, which we reach after just under 3 hours and around 600 metres of ascent.
Walking time: 2.5 h | ↑ 600 m
⌂ Rifugio Quintino Sella (2,640 m)
Day 2: Monte Viso summit day
Depending on the season, we start with breakfast at around 4 a.m. We then descend to Lago Grande di Viso. Our route continues over scree on the east flank, partly protected, up to the Passo delle Sagnette. Cairns mark the way on, and across a few firn fields we reach the Bivacco Andreotti. Shortly afterwards the climbing on the south flank begins, leading us all the way to the summit of Monte Viso. From this very free-standing summit we enjoy a superb view. We take plenty of time to savour our summit success before returning to the valley along our ascent route.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 2,000 m | Difficulty: PD, UIAA III
The story of the first ascent
The Italians must have felt the sting deeply when, on 30 August 1861, the Englishman William Mathews, together with Fredrik Jacomb, the seasoned mountain guide Michel Croz and his brother Jean Baptiste, made the first ascent of their emblematic mountain. What is more, Mathews had nothing good to say in his report about all those who had considered the mountain unclimbable. If his account is to be believed, the biggest problem was not the ascent itself but what to take as provisions: "In Casteldelfino we had to make do with veal alone; in search of eggs, Michel Croz had to comb the cowsheds himself, and at first we were refused wine because there was a shortage of bottles to fill locally." The climb itself is then described only quite briefly in the report.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How difficult is Monte Viso via the normal route?
Monte Viso is not an easy mountain hike. The tour demands stamina, confident movement in alpine terrain and climbing experience on easy rock. On summit day we are on a mixed alpine tour with climbing passages up to UIAA III.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
We stay at Rifugio Quintino Sella, the ideal base for the ascent of Monte Viso. From there we set off very early on summit day, which simply makes sense for such a long and demanding tour.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# MONTE VISO # SOUTH FACE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE