1865
3,937 m
Adolphus Warburton Moore, Horace Walker, Jakob Anderegg
PIZ ROSEG
Eselsgrat (AD-, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
730,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
No mountain range in the Eastern Alps boasts such high peaks as the Bernina Massif. Unlike Piz Bernina, however, Piz Roseg just barely misses the magical four-thousand-meter mark. This means, however, that despite its mighty and breathtaking form and impressive beauty, it doesn't receive nearly the attention among alpinists it deserves—which isn't a bad thing. This way, you have peace and quiet on this wonderful mountain, allowing you to fully enjoy the ascent over the challenging Eselsgrat—without any traffic jams or rockfall from other rope teams.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Piz Roseg - Eselsgrat: The long and demanding tour over the Eselsgrat to Piz Roseg demands the complete mountaineer. Long approaches to the huts and the long distances that must be covered on summit day require a good level of fitness. The high altitude of almost 4,000 meters requires thorough acclimatization. Add to that a crevasse-rich glacier, which requires glacier experience, and a challenging rocky ridge with climbing difficulties of grade III. In the summit area, confident walking with crampons and an ice axe is also necessary, as you'll be navigating steep snow and ice slopes. The reward is one of the best and most rewarding tours to one of the most beautiful and impressive peaks in the Eastern Alps. A must for anyone up to the challenge and an absolute dream tour.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Tschierva Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Optional: Horse-drawn carriage ride through the Val Roseg
- Expenses (accommodation, horse-drawn carriage) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernina group
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Pontresina - train station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Confident walking with crampons and a glacier ice axe
- UIAA Grade III climbing
- Good physical condition for a 12-hour tour (ascent and descent) with 1,500 meters of elevation gain on the summit day
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the Tschierva Hut
From the train station in Pontresina, where we will meet and conduct a quick equipment check, the trail initially continues on a flat path through the Val Rose to the Hotel Roseg. There's also the option of skipping the hike by taking a carriage ride. The approach path towards the Tschierva Hut begins at the Hotel Roseg. Initially, we pass scattered trees and meadows, but the terrain becomes increasingly rugged and barren towards the hut, and we slowly but surely reach the high mountains. The final meters of elevation to the hut are covered on the moraine of the Tschierva Glacier, which, although still very mighty, has also retreated considerably.
5 hours - 12.1 km - 800 meters of elevation gain
Day 2: Over the Eselsgrat to Piz Roseg
As is customary on high-altitude tours, breakfast is served early in the morning at the Tschierva Hut, and then, by the light of our headlamps, we set off down the Tschierva Glacier. We cross it and reach Piz Umur via a rocky passage. We ascend higher over another crevasse-filled glacier and reach the entrance to the Eselsgrat after just over 3 hours. Now the climbing begins on the finest granite, which will keep us busy for the next 2-3 hours. We continue over steep snow and ice flanks to the Schneekupee and the main summit of Piz Roseg. Here we enjoy the magnificent mountain scenery in this breathtaking setting before we begin our descent back along the ascent route. There are several abseiling points on the Eselsgrat.
12 hours - 6 km ascent - total 24 kilometers - 1,500 meters elevation gain - 2,300 meters elevation gain
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent of Piz Roseg was achieved on June 28, 1865, by the Englishmen Adolphus Warburton Moore and Horace Walker, together with their mountain guide Jakob Anderegg. Even today, when climbing Piz Roseg via the normal route, one follows in the footsteps of this first ascent. The route leads through the Val Roseg and over the north ridge, also known as the Eselsgrat, Middlemoregrat, or in Romansh, la cresta, to the summit. Piz Roseg also gained notoriety because one of the best and most famous steep-face skiers, Heini Holzer from South Tyrol, suffered a fatal fall on its north face on July 4, 1977 – witnessed through the binoculars of the then-innkeeper of the Tschiervahütte.
