1864
3,205 m
Paul Grohmann, Franceso Lacedelli, Angelo Dimai
PUNTA SORAPIS
Normal route (III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
360,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A wild Dolomite summit away from the crowds, for anyone who wants to experience the Sorapis Group from its original side.
2 days · Difficulty III (UIAA) · Dolomites
South-east of Cortina d’Ampezzo lies an impressive Dolomite massif: the Sorapis Group. Its highest point, Punta Sorapis, has so far largely been spared the overdevelopment and via ferrata boom seen on many Dolomite peaks. In this way, the massif has preserved much of its original and wild beauty, offering Dolomite lovers a wonderful opportunity to experience this unique mountain world.
Demanding, pathless, and with plenty of climbing in typical Dolomite terrain, this tour requires a sure-footed mountaineer willing to take on the challenge of an ascent. Those who are up to it have the privilege of travelling through one of the most original and wildest corners of the Dolomites, escaping the crowds and enjoying a great mountain adventure.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Punta Sorapis – Normal route: The normal route to the highest summit of the Sorapis Group is an impressive and beautiful tour right through a wild sea of rock. The climbing is mostly on surprisingly solid and grippy rock. Only the large amount of loose scree lying on the many ledges means you should stay fully focused throughout.
The climbing is of moderate difficulty, with two shorter, slightly more testing crux sections at UIAA Grade III. That is exactly what makes the tour so interesting: not just walking, but not an extreme climbing outing either—rather, a serious Dolomite tour with real character. The approach via San Marco Hut and the ascent by the normal route lead through a corner of the Dolomites that has retained a great deal of its original nature.
In return, you end up standing on one of the most impressive Dolomite summits, far from the bustle of many other mountains and in an original, wild landscape. A tour that is so special to many Dolomite lovers for precisely that reason.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Rifugio San Marco
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sorapiss group
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
San Vito di Cadore - Parking at the Hotel "il Cardo"
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for 1,500 meters of elevation gain on rough terrain
- No fear of heights
- Some climbing experience
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
600,- €
360,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ascent to the hut
Independent ascent to Rifugio San Marco. The best place to park is slightly above San Vito di Cadore in the car park by Hotel il Cardo. The approach to Rifugio San Marco starts here. The walk up to the hut presents no particular difficulties, and after a relaxed ascent you reach the hut.
Walking time: 2.5 hrs | ↑ 700 m
⌂ Rifugio San Marco (1,823 m)
Day 2: Summit via the normal route
We meet early in the morning at San Marco Hut. After breakfast, we follow the Dolomite high paths towards Forcella Grande and continue to Bivacco Slataper, which would also be an alternative place to spend the night. From here it is not far to the start of the normal route. Pleasant climbing follows, mostly at Grade II. Two short crux sections must be overcome at Grade III. The rock is generally solid and grippy, but there is a lot of loose scree on the ledges. After the summit, we set off on the descent back into the valley, which is just as long as it is demanding.
Walking time: 10 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 2,100 m | Difficulty: III (UIAA)
Info: Alternative as a day tour from the car park in Val d’Ansiei: only for mountaineers with very strong fitness. This variant runs through Val di San Vito until shortly before Bivacco Slataper, where it joins the same route. Scenically it is even a little more beautiful, the east side of the Sorapis massif is slightly less frequented, but there are no accommodation or refreshment options there.
The story of the first ascent
After two failed attempts, which they had to abort due to weather conditions, Paul Grohmann, together with Franceso Lacedelli and Angelo Dimai, succeeded in making the first ascent of Punta Sorapis. They reached the summit on September 16, 1864, from the west via the Vallon del Banco and the Fopa di Matiak, crawling through a diagonal crack on the western flank of the Fopa di Matia. They then descended via the now-used normal route, abseiling for the first time in the Dolomites. According to local legend, upon reaching the summit and enjoying the breathtaking view of the surrounding Ampezzo Dolomites, Paul Gromann appointed Franceso Lacedelli as the first mountain guide in the area.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How difficult is Punta Sorapis via the normal route?
The tour is demanding and requires sure-footedness and good fitness in alpine terrain. The crux sections are at UIAA Grade III, and there is also pathless ground and a long descent.
Where do we stay the night before summit day?
As a rule, you stay overnight at Rifugio San Marco. Alternatively, Bivacco Slataper is also an option if that suits your planning better. The meeting point with the South Tyrolean mountain guide is early in the morning at the hut.
What equipment do I need to bring?
Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and a climbing harness. The exact packing list will come with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
