1864
3,205 m
Paul Grohmann, Franceso Lacedelli, Angelo Dimai
PUNTA SORAPIS
Normal route (III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
360,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Southeast of Cortina d'Ampezzo lies an impressive Dolomite massif: the Sorapis Group. Its highest peak, the Punta Sorapis, has so far largely escaped the development frenzy and the via ferrata boom that plagues many Dolomite peaks. The massif has thus largely retained its pristine and wild beauty and offers Dolomite lovers a fantastic opportunity to experience this unique mountain world. Demanding, pathless, and with many meters of climbing in typical Dolomite terrain, it requires a surefooted mountaineer who is up to the challenge of an ascent. Those who are up to these challenges have the privilege of exploring one of the most pristine and wildest corners of the Dolomites, escaping the crowds and experiencing an unforgettable mountain adventure.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Punta Sorapis - Normal Route: The normal route to the highest peak in the Sorapis Group is an impressive and beautiful tour through a breathtaking sea of rock. The climbing is mostly on surprisingly solid and grippy rock. Only the large amount of loose scree lying around on the numerous ledges poses a risk of rockfall. The climb is of moderate difficulty, with two shorter, somewhat tougher crux sections rated UIAA grade III. At the end, however, you'll find yourself on one of the most impressive Dolomite peaks with a panorama that is second to none. A tour that every Dolomite lover should do at least once in their lifetime. Away from the hustle and bustle of many other peaks and in a pristine and wild landscape.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Rifugio San Marco
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sorapiss group
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
San Vito di Cadore - Parking at the Hotel "il Cardo"
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for 1,500 meters of elevation gain on rough terrain
- No fear of heights
- Some climbing experience
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Self-guided ascent to Rifugio San Marco
It's best to park just above San Vito di Cadore, in the parking lot at the Hotel "il Cardo." The approach to Rifugio San Marco begins here. The approach to the hut is easy, and after 700 meters of elevation gain and approximately 2.5 hours of leisurely ascent, you'll reach the hut.
Day 2: Meeting with the mountain guide and ascent to Punta Sorapis
We meet early in the morning at the San Marco Hut. After breakfast, we follow the Dolomites High Routes 3, 4, and 5 to Forcella Grande and then on to Bivacco Slataper (which would also be an alternative overnight stay). From here, it's not far to the start of the climbing route of the normal route (approximately 3 hours from the hut to the start). This is followed by challenging climbing, mostly grade II. Two short crux sections must be overcome, grade III. The rock is mostly firm and grippy, but there is a lot of loose scree, creating a rockfall hazard. After another three hours of climbing, gaining approximately 450 meters in altitude, we reach the summit of Sorapis and enjoy a breathtaking panorama before beginning the equally long and challenging descent.
Alternative - as a day trip (same price):
Only for very fit mountaineers! A total of 2,100 meters of ascent and descent, and a total walking time of 14 hours.
The starting point for a one-day climb is the parking lot in Val d'Ansiei. Continue through the beautiful Val di San Vito until, just before the bivouac (Bivacco Slataper), you meet the same path that leads up from the Rifugio San Marco. From here, the ascent to the summit of Sorapis follows the same route. This variant is even more scenic and the eastern side of the Sorapis massif is somewhat less visited than the one above San Vito di Cadore, because there are no overnight accommodations or refreshment options here.
The story of the first ascent
After two failed attempts, which they had to abort due to weather conditions, Paul Grohmann, together with Franceso Lacedelli and Angelo Dimai, succeeded in making the first ascent of Punta Sorapis. They reached the summit on September 16, 1864, from the west via the Vallon del Banco and the Fopa di Matiak, crawling through a diagonal crack on the western flank of the Fopa di Matia. They then descended via the now-used normal route, abseiling for the first time in the Dolomites. According to local legend, upon reaching the summit and enjoying the breathtaking view of the surrounding Ampezzo Dolomites, Paul Gromann appointed Franceso Lacedelli as the first mountain guide in the area.
