1874
2,981 m
Charles Comyns Tucker, T. H. Carson, Francois Devouassoud
ROSENGARTENSPITZE
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
330,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Although the Rosengartenspitze lends its name to the Rosengarten mountain range—or vice versa—it is not the highest peak in this massif. However, because there are two via ferratas on the Kesselkogel, the highest point in the Rosengarten group, it is usually much quieter on the Rosengartenspitze. The rock quality is truly superb in many areas of this rocky bastion, and there are several major highlights leading to its summit. However, since no one is secured with wire ropes, it is almost exclusively alpinists you meet up here. A Dolomite peak that is definitely worth a visit and, simply because of its unique ambiance, is one of the highlights of the Dolomites.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Rosengartenspitze - Normal Route (III+): The sheer variety of this route leading to the highest point of the Rosengartenspitze is impressive. Aside from glacier contact, it's packed with everything: first, we climb a short via ferrata from the mountain station at the Kölnerhütte, before continuing our leisurely hike to the actual Santner Pass via ferrata. The via ferrata, which isn't always secured with wire ropes, leads us to the Santner Pass. The view of the daring Vajolet Towers and the climbers hanging from their walls, as well as the panorama all the way to Bolzano, the capital of South Tyrol, are phenomenal – and we're not even at the summit yet. Here in the "Gartl" (garden), the real difficulties that separate the wheat from the chaff truly begin. Several pitches of astonishingly good grip yet still vertical ascend to the notch on the north ridge. As if that weren't enough, we continue climbing several more meters along the enjoyable ridge until we finally reach the highest point of the Rosengartenspitze. An absolute dream tour that also offers several abseiling spots on the descent and thus basically offers almost all aspects of an alpine tour - never really difficult but always varied and entertaining.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Cable car ticket
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Rosengarten
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
approx. 8 hours
Meeting point:
Valley station Frommer Alm
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascent and descent
PRICING
PROGRAM
We meet at the valley station of the Frommer Alm cable car. Before taking the cable car to the Kölner Hütte, we will do a quick gear check to ensure we have everything we need for the tour.
From the cable car mountain station, we first climb the Santner Pass via ferrata to the Santner Pass Hut. Here we have arrived in the so-called "Gartl" (garden) of King Laurin from the legend of the Rosengarten.
From here, we climb several pitches over the beautifully climbable rock on the west face to the north ridge. Once we reach the saddle, we follow the north ridge to the summit of the Rosengartenspitze, which offers a more scenic view. From here, we enjoy a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding peaks of the Dolomites and also far to the east, where the glaciers of the Ortler Group gleam.
The descent follows the same route as we ascended. We will abseil down the west face and return to our starting point via the Santner Pass via ferrata.
The story of the first ascent
There are various records regarding the exact date of the first ascent of the Rosengartenspitze. Officially, it took place on August 31, 1874, although other sources also mention the year 1873. However, it is more certain that it was the Englishmen Tucker and Carson, together with their mountain guide Devouassoud. Their ascent took the normal route, still in use today, from the "Gartl" via the west flank and then via the north ridge to the summit.
Alpine history was made two more times on the Rosengartenspitze:
- First, it was Antonio Dimai and Luigi Rizzi in 1896 with their route up the 600-meter-high east face. Tito Piaz said the following about this route: "I will never be convinced that the first ascent of the Rosengartenspitze East Face in 1896 by Antonio Dimais is less important than the later routes through the Zinnen North Face or the Eiger. The audacity of the idea alone, even more than its realization, to climb the Rosengarten from this side at that time seems to me the audacity of a titan."
- And almost exactly 30 years later, the direct route by Paula Wiesinger together with Hans Steger in 1929, starting from the lowest point of the East Face in a direct fall line to the summit. Their route ("Steger") is today one of the greatest classics in the Dolomites.
