1874
2,981 m
Charles Comyns Tucker, T. H. Carson, Francois Devouassoud
ROSENGARTENSPITZE
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
330,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A quieter Dolomite summit with genuinely excellent rock and a line you won’t forget in a hurry.
2,981 m · Difficulty III+ (UIAA) · 8 h · Dolomites
Although Rosengartenspitze gives the Rosengarten its name – or perhaps the other way round – it is not the highest summit in this massif. But because there are no fewer than two via ferratas leading up Kesselkogel, the highest point of the Rosengartengruppe, it is usually much quieter on Rosengartenspitze.
The rock quality is truly superb across many sections of this great rock bastion, and there are several major highlights leading to its summit. Since none of them is equipped with fixed steel cables, however, the people you meet up here are almost exclusively alpinists. A Dolomite peak that is definitely worth a visit and, for its unique atmosphere alone, ranks among the highlights of the Dolomites.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Rosengartenspitze – Normal Route (III+): The sheer variety of terrain on this route to the summit of Rosengartenspitze is impressive in itself. Everything is included apart from glacier travel: first, from the upper station by Kölner Hütte, we take a short via ferrata before continuing on an easy walk to the actual Santnerpassklettersteig.
Following the via ferrata, which is not always protected by steel cables, we make our way up to Santnerpass. The view of the bold Vajolettürme and the climbers hanging on their walls, as well as the panorama stretching as far as Bozen, the capital of South Tyrol, is magnificent even here – and we are not yet on the summit. Here in the “Gartl”, the real difficulties that separate the wheat from the chaff only truly begin.
In several pitches, on surprisingly positive holds yet still on vertical ground, we climb up to the notch on the Nordgrat. As if that were still not enough, the enjoyable ridge climbing then serves up plenty more metres of scrambling and climbing until we finally reach the highest point of Rosengartenspitze. A dream tour that also keeps a number of abseil points in store for the descent, and thus offers almost every aspect of an alpine route – never truly difficult, but always varied and engaging.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Cable car ticket
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Rosengarten
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
approx. 8 hours
Meeting point:
Valley station Frommer Alm
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascent and descent
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
550,- €
330,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Via Santnerpass to the summit
We meet at the valley station of the Frommer Alm cable car. Before taking the lift up to Kölner Hütte, we do a brief kit check to make sure we have everything we need for the tour. From the upper station, we first follow the Santnerpassklettersteig to the Santnerpasshütte. Here we arrive in the so-called “Gartl”, King Laurin’s rose garden from the legend of the Rosengarten.
From here, we climb in several pitches up the wonderfully climbable rock of the west face to the Nordgrat. Once at the notch, we follow the north ridge to the panoramic summit of Rosengartenspitze. From here we enjoy sweeping views of the surrounding peaks of the Dolomites, and far to the east, where the glaciers of the Ortlergruppe gleam in the distance.
The descent follows the ascent route. We abseil down the west face and return to our starting point via the Santnerpassklettersteig.
Total time: 8 h | ↑ 650 m ascent | ↓ 650 m descent | Difficulty: III+ (UIAA)
Info: Without the cable car, the approach is extended by approx. 2.5 h, making for a total ascent of 1,250 vertical metres.
The story of the first ascent
There are various records regarding the exact date of the first ascent of the Rosengartenspitze. Officially, it took place on August 31, 1874, although other sources also mention the year 1873. However, it is more certain that it was the Englishmen Tucker and Carson, together with their mountain guide Devouassoud. Their ascent took the normal route, still in use today, from the "Gartl" via the west flank and then via the north ridge to the summit.
Alpine history was made two more times on the Rosengartenspitze:
- First, it was Antonio Dimai and Luigi Rizzi in 1896 with their route up the 600-meter-high east face. Tito Piaz said the following about this route: "I will never be convinced that the first ascent of the Rosengartenspitze East Face in 1896 by Antonio Dimais is less important than the later routes through the Zinnen North Face or the Eiger. The audacity of the idea alone, even more than its realization, to climb the Rosengarten from this side at that time seems to me the audacity of a titan."
- And almost exactly 30 years later, the direct route by Paula Wiesinger together with Hans Steger in 1929, starting from the lowest point of the East Face in a direct fall line to the summit. Their route ("Steger") is today one of the greatest classics in the Dolomites.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Normal Route on Rosengartenspitze suitable for?
The tour is ideal for sure-footed mountaineers with good fitness and some climbing experience. The Normal Route requires confident movement in alpine terrain and enjoyment of easy to moderate rock climbing.
What do I need for the tour?
The most important things are sturdy mountain boots and suitable clothing for a long day in the Dolomites. The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email, and technical equipment can be hired from the Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Is the tour also possible without the cable car?
Yes, that is possible. Without the lift from Frommer Alm, however, the approach becomes significantly longer. This makes the day noticeably more demanding, even though the actual climbing tour on Rosengartenspitze remains the same.
