1874
2,981 m
Charles Comyns Tucker, T. H. Carson, Francois Devouassoud
ROSENGARTENSPITZE
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Rosengartenspitze – Normalweg
A striking Dolomite summit with really good rock
2,981 m · Difficulty III+ (UIAA) · 8 h · Dolomites
Although the Rosengartenspitze gives the Rosengarten its name – or vice versa – it is not the highest summit in this massif. But because no fewer than two via ferratas lead up the Kesselkogel, the highest point of the Rosengarten group, it is usually much quieter on the Rosengartenspitze.
The rock quality is superb across much of this rock bastion, and several great highlights lead to its summit. As none of them is protected with steel cables, though, the people you meet up here are almost exclusively alpinists. A Dolomite summit that is definitely worth a visit and, for its unique atmosphere alone, ranks among the highlights of the Dolomites.
THE TOUR
Rosengartenspitze – normal route (III+): The sheer variety of this route to the summit of the Rosengartenspitze is impressive in itself. It has everything except glacier terrain: from the top station by the Kölner Hütte we first tackle a short via ferrata, before hiking on at a relaxed pace to the Santnerpass via ferrata proper.
Along the via ferrata, which is not protected by steel cables throughout, we climb up to the Santnerpass. The view of the bold Vajolet Towers with climbers clinging to their faces, and the panorama all the way to Bolzano, the capital of South Tyrol, are already magnificent here – and we are not even on the summit yet. Here in the "Gartl", the real difficulties that separate the wheat from the chaff only truly begin.
Several pitches on surprisingly good holds, yet still vertical, lead up to the notch on the north ridge. As if that were not enough, the enjoyable ridge serves up plenty more metres of climbing until we finally reach the highest point of the Rosengartenspitze. A dream tour that also has a few abseils in store on the descent, and so offers almost every aspect of an alpine tour – never really difficult, but always varied and engaging.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Cable car ticket
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Rosengarten
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Frommer Alm valley station
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Climbing at grade III
- Sure-footedness, even on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
'- A head for heights
- Good fitness for a long day of climbing with a strenuous approach and descent
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends on factors including the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel requirements and scope of services.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Via the Santnerpass to the summit
We meet at the valley station of the Frommer Alm cable car. Before riding up to the Kölner Hütte, we do a quick kit check to make sure we have everything we need for the tour. From the top station we first follow the Santnerpass via ferrata to the Santnerpasshütte. Here we have arrived in King Laurin's so-called "Gartl" from the legend of the Rosengarten.
From here, several pitches on the beautifully climbable rock of the west face lead up to the north ridge. Once at the notch, we follow the north ridge to the panoramic summit of the Rosengartenspitze. From here we enjoy a panorama of the surrounding peaks of the Dolomites and far to the east, where the glaciers of the Ortler group gleam across.
The descent follows the ascent route. We abseil down the west face and return to our starting point via the Santnerpass via ferrata.
Total time: 8 h | ↑ 650 m | ↓ 650 m | Difficulty: III+ (UIAA)
Info: Without the cable car, the approach is about 2.5 h longer, making a total of 1,250 m of ascent.
The story of the first ascent
There are differing records of the exact date of the first ascent of the Rosengartenspitze. Officially it took place on 31 August 1874, though other sources also mention 1873. What is certain, however, is that it was the Englishmen Tucker and Carson together with their mountain guide Devouassoud. They climbed the normal route still used today, from the "Gartl" via the west flank and then along the north ridge to the summit.
Alpine history was made on the Rosengartenspitze twice more after that:
- First by Antonio Dimai and Luigi Rizzi in 1896 with their route through the 600-metre east face. Tito Piaz said the following about this route: “I will never be persuaded that Antonio Dimai’s first ascent of the Rosengartenspitze east face in 1896 deserves less significance than the later routes on the north face of the Drei Zinnen or on the Eiger. The very audacity of the idea of climbing the Rosengarten from this side at that time, even more than its realisation, seems to me the boldness of a titan.”
- And almost exactly 30 years later, in 1929, the direct route by Paula Wiesinger and Hans Steger, starting from the lowest point of the east face and following the direct fall line of the summit. Their route (the "Steger") is today one of the greatest classics in the Dolomites.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the normal route on the Rosengartenspitze suitable for?
The tour is ideal for sure-footed mountaineers with good fitness and some climbing experience. The normal route calls for confident movement in alpine terrain and a love of easy to moderate rock climbing.
What do I need for the tour?
Above all, you need sturdy mountain boots and suitable clothing for a long day in the Dolomites. The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email, and technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Is the tour possible without the cable car?
Yes, it is. Without the cable car from Frommer Alm, however, the approach is considerably longer. This makes the day noticeably more demanding, even though the actual climb on the Rosengartenspitze stays the same.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# ROSENGARTENSPITZE # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE