1857
3,168 m
Sir John Ball
MONTE PELMO
Normal route (II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
270,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The mighty rock of Monte Pelmo is one of the highest peaks in the Dolomites. Its striking shape and the way it rises like a mighty bulwark from the green alpine pastures and forests make it one of the most impressive sights in the Dolomites. It's a very special peak that demands a great deal from its climbers. The satisfaction and summit experience, however, are all the more beautiful for it. A breathtaking panorama from the top of this completely isolated peak, which stands between the Civetta and Antelao, awaits us after the strenuous ascent.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Monte Pelmo - Normal Route: This Dolomite peak cannot be reached without a good amount of sweat and alpine skill. Many climbing sections, all of which are UIAA grades I and II, require constant concentration and attention, both on the ascent and the descent. There is no cable car on this mountain that would allow you to comfortably and effortlessly cover some of the 1,700 meters of elevation gain. However, you are away from the hustle and bustle of tourists in a wild and breathtaking Dolomite landscape, providing a truly unique mountain experience.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Pelmostock
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Passo Staulanza
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Very good physical condition for the 1,700-meter climb (approximately 10-12 hours of walking time for the ascent and descent)
- No fear of heights
- Some climbing experience or experience in rough terrain is an advantage
PRICING
PROGRAM
We meet either at the Rifugio Staulanza on the pass of the same name. From there, we hike comfortably to the Rifugio Venezia in just under three hours. From the rifugio, we initially follow a good, well-trodden path until we turn off towards the "Ball Band." Along this historic route, which Sir John Ball used for his daring first ascent in 1857, we follow an exposed but breathtakingly narrow path. It leads through an imposing rock face and provides easy access to the large scree cirques of the amphitheater above. A sweaty climb continues along trail tracks towards the summit. There are always shorter climbing sections to master. The ascent never gets boring and is not only scenically diverse. Suddenly we are standing at the highest point of this rocky colossus and enjoying an incredible view, before we return with full concentration along the ascent path back to the hut and continue to Passo Staulanza - the end point of an unforgettable tour and one of the most beautiful and diverse peaks in the Dolomites.
The story of the first ascent
Monte Pelmo was the first major Dolomite peak to be reached by a human. Thanks to a long rock ledge (climbing sections up to II-) now named after him, Sir John Ball reached the large, bowl-shaped cirque above the large rock ridge. His companion at the time, a chamois hunter, whom he had actually brought with him as a local guide, refused to ascend along this ledge. In his description, Ball is generally negative about his companion, who allegedly tried everything to jeopardize his summit victory. Thus, John Ball, who had started in the Boite Valley, reached the 3,168-meter-high summit alone via the Pelmo Glacier, which was still present at the time, and was to usher in a golden era of ascents of other Dolomite peaks in the years to come.
