1857
3,168 m
Sir John Ball
MONTE PELMO
Normal route (II)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Monte Pelmo – Normalweg
Monte Pelmo is one of those mountains that impresses from afar – a massive block of rock in the heart of the Dolomites
1 day · Difficulty II (UIAA) · 11 h · Dolomites
The mighty rock massif of Monte Pelmo is one of the highest summits in the Dolomites. Its striking shape and the way it rises like a mighty bulwark from the green alpine pastures and forests definitely make it one of the most imposing sights to marvel at in the Dolomites.
It is a very special summit that demands quite a lot from those who climb it. But that makes the satisfaction and the summit experience all the more rewarding. After the exertions of the ascent, a panorama awaits us on the crown of this completely solitary peak, which holds its own between Civetta and Antelao. Anyone who takes the normal route up Monte Pelmo soon realises: this is no leisurely after-work outing, but a long, varied and truly beautiful Dolomites tour.
THE TOUR
Monte Pelmo – normal route: you won't get up this Dolomites summit without plenty of sweat and solid alpine skills. There are many climbing passages to master – always within UIAA grades I and II, yet demanding full concentration and attention throughout, on both the ascent and the descent.
There is no cable car on this mountain to let you cover part of the total 1,700 metres of ascent comfortably and save your energy. In return, you are out in a wild Dolomites landscape, away from the tourist crowds, and enjoy a truly special kind of mountain experience.
It is not for nothing that the mountain is also called the Throne of the Gods. Its free-standing form in the Zoldo Dolomites makes it something special just to look at. And you feel exactly that on the way: long approaches, exposed passages, scree, rock and, again and again, the sense of being on a truly distinctive mountain. Anyone who climbs Monte Pelmo is not after a quick summit tick, but a big, demanding day tour.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Pelmostock
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Passo Staulanza
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Sure-footedness
Key to enjoyment
'- Very good fitness for 1,700 metres of ascent (approx. 10–12 hours of walking for the ascent and descent)
- A head for heights
- Some climbing experience or experience on rough terrain is an advantage
PRICE
Participants:
max. 3 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends, among other things, on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find further information on our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day tour: up Monte Pelmo
We meet at the Rifugio Staulanza on the pass of the same name. From here we hike at a leisurely pace for just under 3 hours to the Rifugio Venezia. From the rifugio we first follow a well-trodden path until we turn off towards the Ball-Band. Along this historic line, which Sir John Ball used back in 1857 for his bold first ascent, we follow a narrow, exposed path. It leads through an imposing rock face, providing an easy passage into the vast scree cirques of the amphitheatre above.
We continue sweating our way up the faint path towards the summit. Again and again there are short climbing passages to master. The ascent is never boring and the scenery is wonderfully varied. Suddenly we are standing on the highest point of this colossal rock and enjoying a magnificent view, before heading back down with full concentration along the ascent route to the hut and on to the Passo Staulanza – the end point of a truly beautiful tour on one of the most varied summits in the Dolomites.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,700 m | ↓ 1,700 m | Difficulty: II (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
Monte Pelmo was the first major Dolomites summit ever to be climbed. Thanks to a long rock ledge (climbing sections up to II-) that now bears his name, Sir John Ball reached the large, bowl-shaped cirque above the great rock barrier. His companion at the time, a chamois hunter whom he had brought along as a local guide, refused to climb along this ledge. In his account, Ball speaks only disparagingly of his companion, who allegedly did everything he could to jeopardise the summit success. And so John Ball, who had set out from the Boite valley, reached the 3,168-metre summit alone via the Pelmo glacier, which still existed at the time, ushering in a golden era of ascents of further Dolomites peaks in the years that followed.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the tour up Monte Pelmo suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed mountaineers with good stamina who feel at home on easy rock and can stay focused over longer sections. Experience on alpine day tours and some climbing experience are a clear advantage here.
How demanding is the normal route up Monte Pelmo?
The normal route is long and demanding. Besides the many metres of ascent, it is above all the exposed terrain on the Ball-Band and the constant easy climbing sections on the ascent and descent that demand your full attention. Technically, the tour is around II (UIAA).
What should I bring for the tour?
Above all, you need sturdy mountain boots and a suitable rucksack for a long day tour. The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# MONTE PELMO # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE