1857
3,168 m
Sir John Ball
MONTE PELMO
Normal route (II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
270,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Monte Pelmo is one of those mountains that makes an impression from afar – a huge rock massif in the heart of the Dolomites, proud and decidedly demanding.
1 day · Difficulty II (UIAA) · 11 h · Dolomites
The mighty rock massif of Monte Pelmo is one of the highest summits in the Dolomites. Its striking shape, and the way it rises like a powerful bastion above green alpine meadows and forests, make it one of the most imposing sights anywhere in the Dolomites.
It is a very special summit that asks a great deal of its climbers. All the greater, however, is the satisfaction and the summit experience. After the effort of the ascent, a panorama awaits us from the top of this completely freestanding peak, holding its own between Civetta and Antelao. Anyone taking the normal route up Monte Pelmo quickly realises: this is no easy after-work outing, but a long, varied, and truly beautiful Dolomite tour.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Monte Pelmo – normal route: You do not climb this Dolomite summit without a proper amount of sweat and solid alpine ability. Many climbing sections, all within UIAA grade I and II, still require constant concentration and attention throughout – both on the ascent and the descent.
There is no cable car on this mountain that would allow you to cover part of the total 1,700 vertical metres in comfort and save energy. In return, you travel far from the main tourist crowds through a wild Dolomite landscape and gain a mountain experience of a very special kind.
It is not for nothing that the mountain is also known as the Throne of the Gods. Its freestanding form in the Zoldo Dolomites makes it visually exceptional from the outset. And that is exactly what you feel on the route: long approaches, exposed passages, scree, rock, and again and again the sense of being on a truly independent mountain. Anyone who climbs Monte Pelmo is not looking for a quick summit tick, but for a big, demanding day in the mountains.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Pelmostock
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Passo Staulanza
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Very good physical condition for the 1,700-meter climb (approximately 10-12 hours of walking time for the ascent and descent)
- No fear of heights
- Some climbing experience or experience in rough terrain is an advantage
PRICING
Participants:
max. 3 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
3 people:
600,- €
360,- €
270,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day tour: Monte Pelmo
We meet at Rifugio Staulanza on the pass of the same name. From here, we hike at a relaxed pace in just under 3 hours to Rifugio Venezia. From the hut, we first follow a well-trodden path until we branch off towards the Ball-Band. Along this historic line, which Sir John Ball already used for his bold first ascent in 1857, we follow a narrow, exposed path. It leads through an impressive rock face and serves as a straightforward passage into the large scree cirques of the amphitheatre above.
From there, we continue upwards towards the summit, following traces of path in a sweat-inducing climb. Time and again, short scrambling sections have to be overcome. The ascent is never dull and the scenery is wonderfully varied. Suddenly we find ourselves on the highest point of this rock giant and enjoy magnificent views before returning, fully focused, along the ascent route back to the hut and on to Passo Staulanza – the end point of a truly beautiful tour on one of the most varied summits in the Dolomites.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,700 m ascent | ↓ 1,700 m descent | Difficulty: II (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
Monte Pelmo was the first major Dolomite peak to be reached by a human. Thanks to a long rock ledge (climbing sections up to II-) now named after him, Sir John Ball reached the large, bowl-shaped cirque above the large rock ridge. His companion at the time, a chamois hunter, whom he had actually brought with him as a local guide, refused to ascend along this ledge. In his description, Ball is generally negative about his companion, who allegedly tried everything to jeopardize his summit victory. Thus, John Ball, who had started in the Boite Valley, reached the 3,168-meter-high summit alone via the Pelmo Glacier, which was still present at the time, and was to usher in a golden era of ascents of other Dolomite peaks in the years to come.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Monte Pelmo tour suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed, fit mountaineers who are comfortable on easy rock and able to stay focused over long sections. Experience on alpine day tours and some climbing experience are clearly an advantage here.
How demanding is the normal route on Monte Pelmo?
The normal route is long and demanding. In addition to the many vertical metres, the exposed ground on the Ball-Band and the constant easy climbing sections on both ascent and descent require full attention. Technically, the tour is graded II (UIAA).
What should I bring for the tour?
Above all, sturdy mountaineering boots and a suitable rucksack for a long day tour are important. The detailed packing list will be sent with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be hired from the South Tyrolean Mountain Guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
