High tour
SCHWARZENSTEIN
South Ridge (IV)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€700
for 1 person
Duration:
1 day
Schwarzenstein - South ridge
A long but very rewarding ridge tour on the sunny side of the Schwarzenstein.
I V (UIAA) · 12 hours · 2,000m elevation gain · Zillertal Alps
The south ridge of the Schwarzenstein is a tour for lovers of solitary, long, and wild ridges. It's actually quite unjustly under-climbed. Whether this is due to a lack of information available about the route, or the fact that there are no overnight accommodations to split the tour into two days, is hard to say. Probably both. As a day hike, you need to be in good shape: it's a 2,000-meter ascent from the starting point at Stallila in the Rotbach Valley (a small side valley of the Ahrntal) to the 3,368-meter summit. Only the descent can potentially be shortened by spending the night at the Schwarzenstein Hut.
Those with the necessary fitness will find the ridge mostly filled with truly solid and wonderful rock. However, the upper section includes a brittle stretch where not all the loose blocks inspire confidence. Route finding isn't always straightforward; a good sense for the easiest line is required to complete the climb at grade IV. Overall, it's a beautiful and sunny climb to one of the most popular peaks in the Ahrntal valley, and those who appreciate peace and solitude will find it a perfect destination.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organization and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations will be made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- possibly 1 overnight stay with half board at the Schwarzensteinhütte mountain hut
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Zillertal Alps
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Stallila parking lot
Requirements
Requirements:
- Surefootedness and ability to climb quickly on easy, rocky terrain (Grade III)
- Good physical condition for 2,000 meters of elevation gain and loss (a significant portion of which is on the rocky ridge)
- Tour duration approx. 12 hours
- No fear of heights
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€700
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Schwarzenstein South Ridge
We meet early in the morning in the Rotbach Valley, at the parking lot of the Gasthof Stallila in the Ahrntal Valley. Our first task is to reach the ridge. This takes us about 2.5 hours, initially on a forest road to the Daimer Alm and then along the Stabeler Höhenweg to the "Törla" pass. We bypass the first tower (Zwilcher) to the right and soon reach the ridge. The lower section, in particular, offers wonderful climbing sections on excellent rock, and the more difficult parts are located in the first two-thirds of the ridge. The rock only becomes truly brittle briefly as we ascend to the Schwarzenbach Spitze and continue along the flat ridge section to the final ascent to the Schwarzenstein. The last few meters are pure pleasure, and after about 4-5 hours of climbing, the summit is within reach.
The descent then leads past the Schwarzenstein Hut back to the starting point at Stallila, pushing many a knee to its limits. We highly recommend an overnight stay at the beautifully situated Schwarzenstein Hut after the tour, especially since the remaining descent the next day can easily be managed without a mountain guide, and the hut offers a fantastic view of the entire profile of the south ridge just traversed.
Total time: 12 hours | ↑ 2,000 m | ↓ 2,000 m | Difficulty: IV (UIAA)
Any changes to the programme that may become necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, availability of accommodation, etc.) are always made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
For whom is the south ridge of the Schwarzenstein suitable?
This tour is ideal for very fit mountaineers with good climbing experience and a confident handling of alpine terrain . The south ridge is long, exposed, and challenging in places – in addition to mostly solid rock, there is also loose rock in the upper section where accurate route finding is essential.
Is the tour also possible as a two-day tour?
Generally, yes – an overnight stay at the Schwarzenstein Hut can significantly shorten the descent . However, this doesn't allow the actual south ridge, with its long ascent of around 2,000 meters, to be effectively spread over two even days. As a rule , summit day remains a long and demanding day of touring – an overnight stay is primarily worthwhile if you want a more relaxed descent.
What do I need to bring for the tour?
The detailed packing list will be sent with the confirmation email. Essential items include appropriate hiking boots , functional clothing, and complete high-altitude mountaineering equipment. Since the descent leads across glaciated terrain, crampons, ice axe, climbing harness, and helmet are also necessary. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear and tear fee.
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MOUNTAIN GUIDES FROM SOUTH TYROL
# SCHWARZENSTEIN # SOUTH RIDGE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE