Four-thousanders
WEISSMIES
South ridge (PD)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
2 days
Weissmies – Südgrat
A major Valais four-thousander that we traverse via the south ridge, descending by the normal route.
4,023 m · Difficulty PD · 2 days · Valais Alps
At 4,023 metres, the Weissmies is not only the highest but also the most imposing peak in the north-eastern part of the Valais Alps. Despite its appearance, with its ice-armoured north-west flank and rocky south side, the summit also offers less experienced mountaineers a technically relatively easy route to the top.
Without the necessary safety precautions, however, glacier travel carries the risk of falling into one of the large crevasses on its extensive expanses. While there are no difficult climbing sections on the way to the summit, steep and heavily crevassed slopes await. With the right know-how and the necessary safety measures, the Weissmies is a classic alpine tour and a manageable, rewarding objective even for newcomers to the world of four-thousanders.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- 1 overnight stay with half board (Almagellerhütte)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Valais Alps
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Saas Almagell
Requirements
Requirements:
'- Sure-footedness
- Fitness for 1,200 metres of ascent at high altitude
PRICE
Participants:
1 - 2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends, among other things, on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find more information about our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need further information, just add them in the comment field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your request: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
Subject to conditions on the mountain at short notice
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Saas Almagell and, after a quick gear check, hike up to the Almagellerhütte. Alternatively, we can arrange to meet directly at the hut, and you can tackle the roughly four-hour ascent on a good hiking trail past the Almagelleralp on your own and at your own pace. That way, you can set off early in the morning while it is not yet too hot. The mountain guide arrives at the hut in the late afternoon. Together we discuss the next day's tour, and after dinner we retire to our quarters for a short night.
Walking time: 4 h | ↑ 1,200 m
⌂ Almagellerhütte (2,894 m)
Day 2: Weissmies summit day
The next morning, after breakfast, we set off towards the summit. First we climb up to the Zwischenbergpass. From there, the route continues along the south ridge towards the summit. Easy scrambling alternates with walking sections, making for a varied tour. Finally, we follow the firn ridge to the highest point of the Weissmies. The descent leads over the impressive and heavily crevassed Trift Glacier. The actual normal route is not difficult, but depends heavily on current conditions. Especially on bare ice, this supposedly easy route calls for appropriate belaying techniques. Once at Hohsaas, we ride the cable car comfortably back down to Saas Grund.
Total time: 6.5 h | ↑ 1,150 m | ↓ 900 m | Difficulty: PD
Info: Without the cable car, the total time for this day is approx. 10 h with ↓ 2,450 m of descent.
Any changes to the programme that may become necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, availability of accommodation, etc.) are always made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Is the Weissmies suitable for beginners?
Yes, the Weissmies is considered a manageable introduction to the world of four-thousanders, provided you are sure-footed and have a good basic level of fitness. However, it is still a genuine alpine tour with glaciers, crevasse zones and changing conditions.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
You need the usual high-alpine equipment, above all crampon-compatible mountain boots and clothing for cold conditions. You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Any missing equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
How strenuous are the two days?
At four hours, the approach to the Almagellerhütte is moderate, while summit day is considerably more demanding. Overall, for the Weissmies you should have solid fitness for several hours at altitude.
MOUNTAIN GUIDES FROM SOUTH TYROL
# WEISSMIES # NORMAL ROUTE #SOUTH RIDGE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE