Alpine climbing
GROSSE ZINNE
Dibona Ridge (V-)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Große Zinne – Dibonakante
Climbing the Cima Grande via the Dibona Ridge is Dolomites history you can touch.
Difficulty V- (UIAA) · 10 h · Sexten Dolomites
Cima Grande - Dibona Ridge: For many alpine climbers, the Dolomites are an absolute dream destination – a climbing area that inspires great respect and deep fascination in equal measure. Every even slightly ambitious climber dreams of climbing in the Dolomites at least once in their life. It is a region of unique scenery with a seemingly endless number of climbing routes, all steeped in alpine climbing history.
Yet one route stands out even here: the Dibona Ridge on the Cima Grande. It was probably first climbed free solo by Rudi Eller as early as 1908, and definitely in 1909 by the route's namesake, Angelo Dibona, together with Emil Stübler. It is truly awe-inspiring how bold these climbing legends were, setting off up such long faces with the equipment of the day and pushing the limits of the hardest climbing routes again and again.
Considering how many rope teams with state-of-the-art equipment still regularly reach their limits on this route today – above all because of the route-finding and the nerve and self-reliance needed to place removable protection – it is a remarkable achievement. Climbing in the footsteps of these pioneers along the logical lines of such great Dolomite faces is a very special experience. Especially on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and on the Dibona Ridge, with sustained fourth-grade climbing that most climbers will thoroughly enjoy.
Climbing higher pitch by pitch, enjoying the views down from the belays and soaking up the wonderful Dolomites panorama all around. Getting a whiff of the Tre Cime north faces along the way, and at the end of the route reaching one of the most iconic summits in the entire Dolomites. The Dibona Ridge on the Cima Grande quite rightly ranks among the greatest classics of the Dolomites.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfer to the meeting point
- Toll for the Rifugio Auronzo road
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Landro car park at Dürrensee
Requirements
Requirements:
'- Sure-footedness
- Some climbing experience
- Stamina for a long day of climbing (18 pitches + descent via the normal route)
PRICE
Participants:
1 - 2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Each tour is priced individually.
The price depends, among other things, on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find further information on our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need further information, just add them in the comment field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your request: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day tour: Dibona Ridge
We meet in Landro – we will agree on the exact time and place beforehand – and drive together to Rifugio Auronzo. At the car park we do a quick gear check and then set off towards the start of the route. Passing below the south faces of the Tre Cime, we reach the Paternsattel, where we get our first view of the impressive north faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
We cross the scree field to the start of the Dibona Ridge. Here we put on our harnesses and get ready for 18 exciting pitches of varied and truly enjoyable climbing. It is no coincidence that the Dibona Ridge ranks among the great classics of alpine climbing in the Dolomites. It is one of many routes on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, where alpine climbing history was written and the limits of what was thought possible were pushed time and again.
On the summit, a panorama in the heart of the Sexten Dolomites awaits us – a very special corner even among these impressive mountains. The demanding descent via the normal route then requires our full attention once again. Tricky route-finding and several abseils, some of them spectacular – including one of 60 metres in a single go – make sure there is never a dull moment on the way back to the car park.
Back at Rifugio Auronzo, we are richer for a truly special experience and can look back with pride on an exceptional climbing route in the Dolomites.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 700 m | ↓ 700 m | Difficulty: V- (UIAA)
Any changes to the programme that may become necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, availability of accommodation, etc.) are always made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
What experience do I need for the Dibona Ridge?
For the Dibona Ridge you should have solid climbing experience in alpine terrain and feel at home on longer routes. The route is long, the descent demands concentration, and being comfortable on exposed terrain is important.
What do I need to pack for the tour?
Above all, you need climbing shoes and suitable clothing for a long day in the mountains. You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Any missing equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
How do the approach and descent work?
The approach leads from Rifugio Auronzo via the Paternsattel to the start of the route. After the climb we descend via the normal route, which involves route-finding and several abseils. On the Cima Grande, this part is very much an integral part of the tour.
MOUNTAIN GUIDES FROM SOUTH TYROL
# GROSSE ZINNE # DIBONA RIDGE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE