Alpine climbing
Große Zinne
Dibona edge (V-)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
420,- €
ABOUT THE TOUR
Climbing the Cima Grande via the Dibona Ridge is Dolomite history you can touch.
Difficulty V- (UIAA) · 10 h · Sexten Dolomites
Cima Grande - Dibona Ridge: For many alpine climbers, the Dolomites are an absolute dream destination and a climbing area that inspires both great respect and deep fascination. Every somewhat ambitious climber dreams of climbing in the Dolomites at least once in a lifetime. It is a landscape of unique beauty, with an almost endless number of climbing routes steeped in alpine climbing history.
But one route stands out here in a particularly special way: the Dibona Ridge on Cima Grande. It was probably first climbed free solo by Rudi Eller in 1908, but was definitely climbed in 1909 by the route’s namesake, Angelo Dibona, together with Emil Stübler. It is truly awe-inspiring how bold these climbing legends were, setting off into such long walls with the equipment of the time and pushing the limit of the hardest climbing routes again and again.
When you consider how many rope teams still regularly reach their limits on this route today even with the most modern equipment – above all because of route-finding and the level of commitment and self-reliance required when placing mobile protection – it is a remarkable achievement. It is a very special experience to climb in the footsteps of these pioneers, following the logical lines of such great Dolomite walls. Especially on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and on the Dibona Ridge, with sustained and for most climbers highly enjoyable fourth-grade climbing.
Pitch by pitch, we climb higher, enjoy the exposure and the deep views at the belays, and soak up the magnificent Dolomite panorama all around. In between, we get a hint of the famous north faces of the Cime, and at the end of the route we reach one of the most iconic summits in the entire Dolomites. Quite rightly, the Dibona Ridge on Cima Grande is considered one of the great classics of the Dolomites.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to the meeting point
- Auronzo Hut toll fees
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Landro parking lot at Dürrensee
What you need
Requirements:
- Surefootedness
- Some climbing experience
- Fitness for a long day of climbing (18 pitches + descent via the normal route)
PRICING
Participants:
1 - 2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
700,- €
420,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day tour: Dibona Ridge
We meet in Landro – we will arrange the exact time and place later – and drive together to Rifugio Auronzo. At the car park we do a short gear check and then set off towards the start of the route. Passing below the south faces of the Cime, we reach the Paternsattel and from here get our first view of the impressive north faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
We traverse the scree slope to the start of the Dibona Ridge. Here we put on our harnesses and get ready for 18 exciting pitches of varied and genuinely enjoyable climbing. It is no coincidence that the Dibona Ridge is counted among the very great classics of alpine climbing in the Dolomites. It is one of many routes on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, where alpine climbing history was written and the boundaries of what was thought possible in climbing were pushed several times.
Once on the summit, a panorama awaits us in the heart of the Sexten Dolomites. Even within these impressive mountains, this is a truly special corner. Afterwards, the demanding descent via the normal route requires our full attention once again. Challenging route-finding and several abseil sections, some of them spectacular – including one full 60-metre rappel – ensure there is no dull moment on the way back to the car park either.
Back at Rifugio Auronzo, we will have gained a truly special experience and can look back with pride on an exceptional climbing route in the Dolomites.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 700 m | ↓ 700 m | Difficulty: V- (UIAA)
Any changes to the program that may be necessary for various reasons (weather, conditions, accommodation booking situation, etc.) will always be made in consultation with the participants.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
What should I bring in terms of experience for the Dibona Ridge?
For the Dibona Ridge, you should have solid climbing experience in alpine terrain and feel comfortable on longer routes. The route is long, the descent requires concentration, and being at ease in exposed ground is important.
What do I need to pack for the tour?
Most important are climbing shoes and suitable clothing for a long day in the mountains. You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Missing equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear fee.
How do the approach and descent work?
The approach starts from Rifugio Auronzo via the Paternsattel to the start of the route. After the climb, we descend via the normal route, with route-finding and several abseil points. This part in particular is very much an integral part of the tour on Cima Grande.
