1859
4,194 m
Francis Fox Tuckett, Johann Josef Benet, Peter Boren, Victor Tairraz
ALETSCHHORN
Southwest rib (AD-, II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.900,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The majestic Aletschhorn stands amidst the mighty rock and ice giants of the Bernese Oberland. Surrounded by some of the largest expanses of ice in Europe, including the Aletsch Glacier, the largest glacier tongue in the Alps, it has the reputation of being the coldest mountain in the entire Alpine region. Without exception, all ascents to this remote peak are long and challenging, requiring not only thorough acclimatization but also top-notch fitness. This is true even if you plan to complete the tour in three days. Even the approach to the hut is a very long journey, taking over four hours, with constant ups and downs, and thus numerous climbs on the way back. On summit day, there are already 2,000 meters of elevation gain to overcome just from the hut to the summit and back to the hut, before you reach the second-highest point in the Bernese Oberland. The Aletschhorn is surpassed in this region only by the Finsteraarhorn. The reward for your efforts will be one of the most exclusive peaks in the Alps. It's definitely worth meticulously following your training plan and practicing the necessary physical demands.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Aletschhorn - Southwest Ridge: Even though the Aletschhorn is considered the coldest mountain in the Alps, that shouldn't deter anyone from climbing it. The standard route today leads along the south side of the mountain, more precisely over the southwest ridge, along a varied high-altitude tour that offers basically everything a mountaineer's heart could wish for, all the way to the second-highest point in the Bernese Alps. But first, the long but beautifully landscaped high-altitude trail from Belalp to the Oberaletsch Hut must be tackled. The hut is located high above the Oberaletsch Glacier and is beautifully situated. The next morning, however, the first challenge is a descent of a good 200 meters over steep (secured) rock faces onto the glacier and a path along the glacier tongue through the scree carried by the glacier. Finally, once you reach the base of the mountain, you continue over a steep moraine flank to the first rocky ridge. The astonishingly good rock leads along the ridge to the glacier, finally climbing a steep ice and rock flank to the summit. The climbing difficulty never exceeds grade II, and on the summit flank, which is over 35° steep, the safety poles significantly increase safety. So nothing stands in the way of an enjoyable fitness boost in breathtaking scenery. Definitely a tour where large crowds are generally completely absent, even in perfect weather and the best conditions.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Belalp cable car ticket (round trip)
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Oberaletsch Hut
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, cable car)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernese Oberland
Best time of year:
End of June - beginning of September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Blatten near Naters - Belalp cable car valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe walking and climbing with crampons
- Climbing up to UIAA grade II
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Oberaletsch Hut Approach
We meet in Blatten near Naters at the valley station of the cable car to Belalp. After a quick gear check, we purchase the cable car ticket for the ascent and descent and begin our ascent to the hut, initially on a gentle, gentle downhill. The varied ascent to the hut will take us a total of four hours, covering numerous meters of elevation in constant ascents and descents.
Day 2: Aletschhorn
The summit aspirants' alarm clocks ring early at the Oberaletsch Hut. A long hike awaits us, which first takes us from the hut down a vertical rock face secured with ropes and ladders, 200 meters in altitude, to the glacier. Along the glacier tongue, completely covered in scree, we look for the best access route and the easiest way to reach the southwest ridge over the steep moraine flanks. With some entertaining rock scrambling, we ascend meter by meter. We only reach the glacier at 3,400 meters. The last 450 meters of ascent are particularly challenging, until we reach the summit after a 6-7 hour climb. The descent then takes us back along the same ascent route to the hut (don't forget: there's another 200-meter climb from the glacier up to the hut at the end ;)
Day 3: Descent back to the valley
Well-rested and recharged, we return to Belalp via the panoramic trail and take the cable car back to the starting point in Blatten.
*The mountain guide will descend completely back to the valley after reaching the summit.
The story of the first ascent
From Fiesch, the roped party of the first ascents (consisting of Francis Tuckett with his mountain guides Johann Benet, Peter Boren, and Victor Tairraz) climbed over the Eggishorn onto the Aletsch Glacier. They set up their bivouac in the Mittelaletsch region. Tuckett carelessly left the wine he had brought with the mountain guides in a cave, which hunters usually used for bivouacking, while the Englishman slept outside. In the morning, he heard loud singing coming from the cave. The mountain guides were extremely fond of the wine, completely drunk, and unable to climb the Aletschhorn. A rest day was necessary. On the third day, the time had come. The roped party continued up over the Mittelaletsch Glacier to the Aletschjoch and along the firn ridge to the narrow northeast ridge, which led them to the summit of the Aletschhorn. The route is still the shortest and technically easiest way to the summit, although it does not have to be accessed via any huts (and today there was also no bivouac box, which was destroyed by an avalanche).
