1859
4,194 m
Francis Fox Tuckett, Johann Josef Benet, Peter Boren, Victor Tairraz
ALETSCHHORN
Southwest rib (AD-, II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.900,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A long, wild ascent of the Aletschhorn – right into the heart of the great world of ice and rock in the Bernese Alps.
3 days · Difficulty AD-, II
The Aletschhorn stands amid the mighty giants of rock and ice of the Bernese Oberland. Surrounded by some of the largest icefields in Europe, including the largest glacier tongue in the Alps, the Aletsch Glacier, it has a reputation for being the coldest mountain in the entire Alpine region.
Without exception, all ascents of this remote summit are long, demanding and require not only good acclimatisation but also bombproof fitness. Even if you want to complete the tour in 3 days. That is because even the hut approach, at well over 4 hours, with constant ups and downs and therefore many re-ascents on the way back as well, is very long.
On summit day alone, from the Oberaletsch Hut to the summit and back to the hut, there are already 1,950 vertical metres to cover in order to reach the second-highest point in the Bernese Oberland. In this region, only the Finsteraarhorn rises higher than the Aletschhorn. The reward for the effort is one of the most exclusive summits in the Alps. It is definitely worth following the training plan meticulously and building the necessary physical fitness.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Aletschhorn – Südwestrippe: Even though the Aletschhorn is considered the coldest mountain in the Alps, that should not put anyone off climbing it. The normal route commonly used today follows the south side of the mountain, more precisely the Südwestrippe, on a varied alpine tour that essentially offers everything a mountaineer's heart could desire, all the way to the second-highest point in the Bernese Alps.
First, however, you have to complete the long but beautifully laid-out high-level path from Belalp to the Oberaletsch Hut. The hut sits high above the Oberaletsch Glacier and is in a truly superb position. The next morning, though, the first task is to descend a good 200 vertical metres down steep, protected rock walls to the glacier and then find a way along the glacier tongue through the debris carried by the glacier.
Once you finally reach the foot of the mountain, the route climbs a steep moraine slope to the first rock rib. On surprisingly good rock, you continue along the rib to the glacier and finally up a steep flank of ice and rock to the summit. The climbing difficulties never exceed grade II. So nothing stands in the way of a thoroughly enjoyable endurance test in a grand high-alpine setting. This is definitely a tour where, even in perfect weather and with excellent conditions, the big crowds are usually completely absent.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Belalp cable car ticket (round trip)
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Oberaletsch Hut
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, cable car)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernese Oberland
Best time of year:
End of June - beginning of September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Blatten near Naters - Belalp cable car valley station
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Safe walking and climbing with crampons
- Climbing up to UIAA grade II
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
1,900,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
We meet in Blatten bei Naters at the valley station of the cable car to Belalp. After a brief equipment check, we buy the cable car ticket for the ascent and descent and begin our approach to the hut, at first pleasantly and slightly downhill. The path to the Oberaletsch Hut is varied and, with its constant ups and downs, takes longer than you might think at first. But that is exactly what makes this approach so special: you are not simply on the way to the hut, you are already right in the middle of this vast mountain landscape.
Walking time: 4.5 h | ↑ 950 m | ↓ 450 m
⌂ Oberaletsch Hut
Day 2: Summit day Aletschhorn
Alarms ring early in the Oberaletsch Hut for those aiming for the summit. A long day lies ahead, beginning with a descent of around 200 vertical metres down a steep rock wall secured with fixed ropes and ladders to the glacier. Along the debris-covered glacier tongue, we pick out the best line to reach the Südwestrippe. Then it is upward, metre by metre, in enjoyable scrambling on rock. Only at around 3,400 metres do we reach the glacier again. The final vertical metres in particular demand one last effort before we gain the summit of the Aletschhorn. The descent follows the ascent route back to the hut – and do not forget: at the end, the re-ascent from the glacier back up to the hut is still waiting ;)
Total: 10 h | ↑ 1,950 m | ↓ 1,950 m | Difficulty: AD-, II
⌂ Oberaletsch Hut
Day 3: Descent into the valley
Well rested and with renewed energy, you return via the panoramic trail to Belalp and take the cable car back to the starting point in Blatten. After the long summit day, this is a fine conclusion to the tour – scenically superb, but much more relaxed than the day before.
Walking time: 4 h | ↑ 450 m | ↓ 950 m
Info: After the summit, the mountain guide will descend all the way back into the valley.
The story of the first ascent
From Fiesch, the roped party of the first ascents (consisting of Francis Tuckett with his mountain guides Johann Benet, Peter Boren, and Victor Tairraz) climbed over the Eggishorn onto the Aletsch Glacier. They set up their bivouac in the Mittelaletsch region. Tuckett carelessly left the wine he had brought with the mountain guides in a cave, which hunters usually used for bivouacking, while the Englishman slept outside. In the morning, he heard loud singing coming from the cave. The mountain guides were extremely fond of the wine, completely drunk, and unable to climb the Aletschhorn. A rest day was necessary. On the third day, the time had come. The roped party continued up over the Mittelaletsch Glacier to the Aletschjoch and along the firn ridge to the narrow northeast ridge, which led them to the summit of the Aletschhorn. The route is still the shortest and technically easiest way to the summit, although it does not have to be accessed via any huts (and today there was also no bivouac box, which was destroyed by an avalanche).
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How strenuous is the ascent of the Aletschhorn really?
Very strenuous. The Aletschhorn is not a tour you just pull out of your sleeve. Even the approach to the Oberaletsch Hut is long, and on summit day the vertical gain quickly adds up. Anyone joining this tour should bring very good fitness and experience on demanding alpine tours.
What prior experience do I need for the Südwestrippe?
You should already have experience on alpine tours and feel comfortable on steep rock and glacier terrain. The route via the Südwestrippe is long and demanding, even if the climbing sections remain technically moderate. What matters most are endurance, sure-footedness and confident movement at altitude.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list in the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and warm clothing, because it can be chilly on the Aletschhorn even in summer. Technical equipment can be rented from the Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear-and-tear fee.
