1864
3.264 mt.
Paul Grohmann
ANTELAO
Normal route (II)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Antelao – Normalweg
Antelao, King of the Dolomites, is a long tour to one of the most striking summits in the Dolomites
2 days · Difficulty II (UIAA)
Antelao: King of the Dolomites. Not only is it the second-highest summit in the Dolomites, its impressive shape also makes it a particularly striking sight, visible from almost every corner of the Dolomites. No via ferrata and no easy path lead to its summit. An ascent remains reserved for very experienced alpinists. A massive rockfall in 2014 made this even more so. Since then the ascent has become more demanding, and the new character of the Laste has raised the need for good conditions even further. In addition, an important shelter for emergencies or sudden changes in the weather has been missing ever since: the event also destroyed the Bivacco Cosi, so stable weather is practically a must. All in all, an ascent of Antelao is a big undertaking on a big Dolomite summit.
THE TOUR
Antelao via the normal route is a must for every Dolomites fan. Not only because it is the second-highest summit and the "King of the Dolomites", but because, with the Laste, it offers a passage that is unique in the Dolomites and highly impressive. In 2014 a massive rockfall occurred in which the entire upper layer slid away together with other parts of the mountain. The Bivacco Cosi was destroyed as well. This affected the route, which on the Laste has become even more impressive and also somewhat more demanding since the rockfall. Plenty of loose debris and scree still bear witness to the event today, many years later. Overall, the technical climbing difficulties on the normal route are very easy. On the short climbing passages, which crop up again and again along the entire route, UIAA grade II is never exceeded. Even so, you are constantly in terrain where a fall would be serious, and maximum concentration and sure-footedness are required. The ascent cleverly follows the easiest passages to a summit that looks like it would involve far harder climbing than is actually the case. It is precisely this mix that makes it so appealing: a great Dolomite summit, an unusual line across the Laste slabs and an ascent that never comes for free. For experienced alpinists, Antelao is therefore a true classic.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- 1 night in a hut with half board
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Antelao
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
San Vito di Cadore - car park at the valley station of the chairlift towards Rifugio Scotter
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Sure-footedness on loose scree
- Some climbing experience
- Very good fitness for a long ascent and descent of 1,400 vertical metres in demanding terrain
Key to enjoyment
'- A head for heights
- Some Dolomites experience is an advantage
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends on factors such as the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find more information on our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to Rifugio Galassi
On the first day we recommend making your own way up to Rifugio Galassi and spending the night there. Rifugio San Marco may also be possible, but this adds extra vertical metres on the tour day. The car park and starting point are in San Vito di Cadore, a little below the valley station of the chairlift to Rifugio Scotter Palatini. A partly tarmacked road first leads uphill. Behind the hut a steeper path begins, zigzagging up to the Dolomites High Route. Then continue climbing to Forcella Piccola and, beyond the col, descend briefly to Rifugio Galassi.
Walking time: 3 h | ↑ 1,000 m | ↓ 100 m
⌂ Rifugio Galassi
Day 2: Summit day on Antelao
We meet early in the morning at Forcella Piccola and set off together towards Antelao. At first we follow clearly visible paths across green meadows, but the landscape soon becomes barer and we reach a large cirque below the walls of the mountain. With clever route-finding, ledges lead surprisingly easily to the ridge crest and on to the Laste inferiori, the lower slabs of Antelao. These are still considerably less steep, and a path leads through scree and boulders. Again and again there are very short, easy climbing passages to master. We then reach the Laste superiori. This is where a massive rockfall occurred in 2014, permanently changing the character of this passage. Good conditions, sure-footedness and trust in your footwear are absolutely essential here. After the Laste, easier passages alternate with a few more scrambly sections. However, you never really get into proper climbing on the entire ascent to the summit – the individual sections are always too short for that. Still, this normal route up Antelao remains impressive and exposed throughout. The descent follows the ascent route all the way down to San Vito di Cadore.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 1,250 m | ↓ 2,100 m | Difficulty: II (UIAA)
Info: Possible as a day tour on request. This involves 2,100 vertical metres in demanding terrain. The price stays the same.
The story of the first ascent
After Paul Grohmann heard that a certain Matteo Ossi was said to have reached the summit of Antelao as early as 1850, he promptly rented him as a guide so that he too could reach this beautifully shaped peak. In his book "Wanderungen in den Dolomiten" (Wanderings in the Dolomites), published in 1877, he describes the ascent as follows: Matteo Ossi agreed to come along, but at some point fell to brooding, made excuses and declared that he had lost his way – in short, he could no longer find the route. But my brave Ampezzo guides found the right way at once. We stepped onto the summit of Antelao at 11.45, and I believe I may say that we stood on a peak no one had set foot on before.”
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Antelao ascent suitable for?
The tour is designed for very experienced alpinists who move confidently in terrain where a fall would be serious and stay calm even on short passages of grade II. Antelao is not the mountain for your first taste of exposed Dolomite tours.
Do we stay overnight in a hut?
Yes, as a rule you make your own way up to Rifugio Galassi the day before and spend the night there. From there, Forcella Piccola, where we meet on summit day, is quickly reached. Alternatively, Rifugio San Marco may also be an option.
What equipment do I need?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Above all, you need mountaineering boots and suitable clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# ANTELAO # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE