1864
3,264 m
Paul Grohmann
ANTELAO
Normal route (II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
360,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Antelao, the King of the Dolomites, is a major undertaking on one of the most distinctive summits in the Dolomites.
2 days · Difficulty II (UIAA)
Antelao: King of the Dolomites. It is not only the second-highest summit in the Dolomites, but, thanks to its impressive shape, also a particularly striking peak that can be seen from almost every angle in the Dolomites. There is no via ferrata and no easy path to its summit. An ascent is reserved for very experienced alpinists only. A massive rockfall in 2014 made this situation even more serious. Since then, the ascent has become more demanding, and the need for good conditions has increased further due to the new character of the Laste. In addition, an important shelter for emergencies or possible changes in the weather has been missing ever since. The event also destroyed the Bivacco Cosi, so stable weather is virtually essential. All in all, an ascent of Antelao is a major undertaking on a great Dolomite summit.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Antelao via the normal route is a must for every Dolomites fan. Not only because it is the second-highest summit and the “King of the Dolomites”, but because with the Laste it offers a passage that is unique in the Dolomites and deeply impressive. In 2014, a massive rockfall occurred in which the entire upper layer, together with further parts of the mountain, broke away. The Bivacco Cosi was also destroyed in the event. This affected the route, which along the Laste has become even more impressive and also somewhat more demanding since the rockfall. A great deal of loose debris and scree still bears witness to this event even today, many years later. Overall, the technical climbing difficulties on the normal route are to be rated as very easy. On the short climbing sections, which are encountered again and again at intervals along the whole route, UIAA grade II is never exceeded. Nevertheless, you are permanently in exposed fall terrain, and maximum concentration and sure-footedness are required. The ascent cleverly follows the easiest passages up to a summit that suggests distinctly harder climbing than is actually the case. This very combination is what makes it so appealing: a great Dolomite summit, an idiosyncratic line across the Laste slabs, and an ascent that is never a giveaway. For experienced alpinists, Antelao is therefore a true classic.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- 1 overnight stay in a hut with half board
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Antelao
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
San Vito di Cadore - Parking at the valley station of the chairlift towards Rifugio Scotter
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness on loose scree
- Some climbing experience
- Very good fitness for long ascents and descents with 1,400 meters of elevation gain in challenging terrain
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Some Dolomite experience is an advantage
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
600,- €
360,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to Rifugio Galassi
On the first day, it is recommended to make your own way up to Rifugio Galassi and spend the night there. Rifugio San Marco may also be possible, but that would add extra ascent on summit day. The car park and starting point are in San Vito di Cadore, a little below the lower station of the chairlift to Rifugio Scotter Palatini. A partly asphalted road leads uphill at first. Beyond the hut, a steeper path begins, climbing in switchbacks to the Dolomite High Route. From there, continue ascending to Forcella Piccola, then descend briefly beyond the notch to Rifugio Galassi.
Walking time: 3 h | ↑ 1,000 m | ↓ 100 m
⌂ Rifugio Galassi
Day 2: Summit day on Antelao
We meet early in the morning at Forcella Piccola and set off together towards Antelao. At first, we follow clearly visible tracks across green meadows, but the landscape soon becomes barer, and we reach a large cirque beneath the mountain walls. Across ledges, with careful route-finding, the way is surprisingly straightforward up to the crest and onward to the Laste inferiori, the lower slabs of Antelao. These are still distinctly less steep, and a path leads through scree and boulders. Again and again, there are also very short, easy scrambling sections to overcome. After that, we reach the Laste superiori. This is where a massive rockfall occurred in 2014, permanently changing the character of this passage. Good conditions, sure-footedness, and confidence in your footwear are absolutely essential here. After the Laste, easier sections alternate with slightly more involved scrambling. However, the entire ascent to the summit never really turns into sustained climbing, as the individual sections are always too short for that. Even so, this normal route on Antelao remains highly impressive and exposed throughout. The descent follows the ascent route all the way back down to San Vito di Cadore.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 1,250 m | ↓ 2,100 m | Difficulty: II (UIAA)
Info: Possible as a day tour on request. In that case, 2,100 vertical metres must be covered in demanding terrain. The price remains the same.
The story of the first ascent
After Paul Grohmann heard that a certain Matteo Ossi had already reached the summit of Antelao in 1850, he promptly hired him as a guide to help him reach this beautiful peak. In his 1877 book "Wanderungen in den Dolomiten" (Walks in the Dolomites), he described the climb as follows: "Matteo Ossi agreed to join us, but at some point he began to reflect, sought excuses, and declared he had lost his way—in short, he couldn't find the way. But my brave Ampezzo guides immediately found the right path. We reached the summit of Antelao at 11:45 a.m., and I believe I can say that we stood on a peak that had never been climbed before."
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the ascent of Antelao suitable for?
The tour is intended for very experienced alpinists who move confidently in exposed fall terrain and remain calm even on short sections of grade II difficulty. Antelao is not a mountain for a first encounter with exposed Dolomite routes.
Will we stay overnight in a hut?
Yes, as a rule you make your own way up to Rifugio Galassi the day before and stay overnight there. From there, Forcella Piccola is quickly reached, where we meet on summit day. Alternatively, Rifugio San Marco may possibly also be used.
What equipment do I need?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are mountaineering boots and suitable clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
