1864
3,264 m
Paul Grohmann
ANTELAO
Normal route (II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
360,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Antelao: King of the Dolomites. It is not only the second-highest peak in the Dolomites, but its impressive shape also makes it particularly striking and visible from almost every angle of the Dolomites. There is no via ferrata or easy path leading to its summit. Climbing it is reserved only for very experienced alpinists. A massive rockfall in 2014 exacerbated this situation. The climb has become more challenging since then, and the requirement for good conditions has increased even further due to the new characteristics of the "Laste." Furthermore, an important shelter for emergencies or possible weather changes has been missing since then. The Bivacco Cosi was also destroyed in the incident, and stable weather is practically mandatory. All in all, climbing the Antelao is a major undertaking on a major Dolomite peak.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Antelao - Normal Route: The normal route to Antelao is a must for every Dolomites enthusiast. Not only because it is the second-highest peak and the "King of the Dolomites," but also because it offers a unique and very impressive passage in the Dolomites with the "Laste." In 2014, a massive rockfall occurred, causing the entire upper layer of the mountain to slide away, along with other parts of it. The Bivacco Cosi was also destroyed. This also had an impact on the route, which has become even more impressive and somewhat more challenging since the rockfall. A great deal of loose debris and scree still bears witness to this event, even many years later. Overall, the climbing difficulties on the normal route can be classified as very easy! The short climbing passages, which are found quite frequently along the entire route, never exceed UIAA grade II. Nevertheless, you are constantly in the area of falling terrain, requiring utmost concentration and surefootedness. The climb skillfully leads along the easiest sections to a summit that suggests significantly more difficult climbing sections than actually occur. The breathtaking landscape and the stunning panorama make this tour a highlight in every Dolomite mountaineer's tour book and a popular classic for experienced alpinists!
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- 1 overnight stay in a hut with half board
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Antelao
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
San Vito di Cadore - Parking at the valley station of the chairlift towards Rifugio Scotter
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness on loose scree
- Some climbing experience
- Very good fitness for long ascents and descents with 1,400 meters of elevation gain in challenging terrain
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Some Dolomite experience is an advantage
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Self-guided ascent to Rifugio Galassi
On the first day, it is recommended that you ascend independently to Rifugio Galassi (or possibly Rifugio San Marco – in which case, you'll gain 200 meters of elevation gain on the day of your tour) and spend the night there.
The parking lot and starting point is in San Vito di Cadore, just below the valley station of the chairlift to Rifugio Scotter Palatini. A partially paved road leads to the hut. Behind the hut, a steeper path (trail no. 229) begins, which zigzags onto the Dolomites High Route (trail no. 227). Continue following this path uphill to Forcella Piccola. After the saddle, descend shortly to the Galassi Hut.
Allow approximately 3 hours for the climb to the hut - 1,000 meters of elevation gain
Day 2: Antelao
We'll meet in the morning (around 6:00 a.m.) at the "Forcella Piccola" (10 minutes from the Rifugio Galassi) and then set off together towards Antelao!
We'll follow clearly visible trails from the Forcella Piccola, initially across green flower meadows. Soon, however, the landscape becomes more barren, and we reach a large Dolomite cirque, which we follow until we're virtually surrounded by rock faces.
With skillful pathfinding, the ascent is surprisingly easy (I) over ledges to the ridge and further onto the "Laste inferiori dell'Antelao" - the lower slabs of Antelao. These are significantly less steep (25°), and a trail leads through the numerous scree and boulders lying around. There are also some very short, easy climbing sections (max. II) to master.
We then reach the "Laste superiori." A massive rockslide occurred here in 2014, where large masses of rock slid down the slabs, permanently changing the character of these "Laste." This unique slab is certainly the most impressive passage on the Antelao and the defining feature of this climb. Good conditions, surefootedness, and confidence in your footwear are absolutely essential.
After the Laste, easier passages alternate with slightly more scrambling sections. However, you never really get into climbing on the entire climb to the summit; the sections are always too short for that.
Impressive, exposed, and unforgettable, this normal route to the Antelao will definitely remain in the memory of all who reach the summit after about 4-5 hours from "Forcella Piccola"!
The descent follows the ascent route, and you must allow the same amount of time as for the ascent.
*A day tour available upon request: Please note that this tour involves 2,100 meters of elevation gain. Much of it is challenging terrain, requiring utmost concentration and unforgiving of mistakes. The price remains the same.
The story of the first ascent
After Paul Grohmann heard that a certain Matteo Ossi had already reached the summit of Antelao in 1850, he promptly hired him as a guide to help him reach this beautiful peak. In his 1877 book "Wanderungen in den Dolomiten" (Walks in the Dolomites), he described the climb as follows: "Matteo Ossi agreed to join us, but at some point he began to reflect, sought excuses, and declared he had lost his way—in short, he couldn't find the way. But my brave Ampezzo guides immediately found the right path. We reached the summit of Antelao at 11:45 a.m., and I believe I can say that we stood on a peak that had never been climbed before."
