1860
3,220 m
Simone de Silvestro
CIVETTA
Traverse (C)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
2 days
Civetta – Überschreitung über Ferrata Alleghesi und Tissi
For many Dolomites lovers, standing on the Civetta at least once is simply a must.
2 days · Difficulty C (via ferrata) · 13.5 h · Dolomites
Among climbers, the Civetta is widely known as the arena of the sixth grade, as alpine climbing history has been written on its impressive north-west face time and again. Thanks to this huge, steep and forbidding north face, it is truly an impressive sight and a landmark of the Dolomites. Standing on this quintessential Dolomites peak should be on the agenda of everyone who loves this unique mountain world. The ascents on the east side, where the normal route is also located, have been made easier with steel cables. The result is some of the most beautiful and impressive via ferratas in the entire Dolomites. They lead to one of the highest summits in the area and are definitely worth a visit, even if they have taken away some of the Civetta's seriousness and difficulty. Nevertheless, it remains a high-alpine summit that should only be attempted by experienced mountaineers.
THE TOUR
The Civetta – via the Ferrata Alleghesi and Ferrata Tissi: little remains of what the first ascensionists found on the Civetta. Today, this impressive summit has been equipped with steel cables on almost all of its routes. Both the normal route chosen by the first ascensionists and two further ascents are protected. And since this mountain has already been made accessible to so many people, we combine the finest of these via ferratas into a wonderful traverse. While the character of the tour has changed as a result, the beauty of the Civetta will always remain, no matter where you catch sight of it on future Dolomites tours. The Civetta massif is, and always will be, an imposing rocky landscape with a very special atmosphere. It is precisely this combination of grand Dolomites scenery, a long ascent and two classic via ferratas that makes the tour so special. If you love spending long days on rock and want not just to look at one of the best-known mountains in the Dolomites but actually traverse it, this is the tour for you.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- 1 night in a hut with half board at the Torrani hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Civetta group
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Pecol - Rifugio Pala Favera car park
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Sure-footedness
Key to enjoyment
'- Fitness for a long ascent with 1,700 metres of ascent
- Some via ferrata experience
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
max. 4 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Each tour is priced individually.
The price depends, among other things, on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find further information about our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Alleghesi and summit
We meet at the car park of Rifugio Pala Favera above Pecol. After a short gear check, we begin our ascent of the Civetta. In about 2.5 hours, it takes us past Rifugio Coldai. We continue along the path towards the south until, after another hour, we reach the start of the Alleghesi via ferrata. We follow this long via ferrata, which leads us directly to the highest point of the Civetta. From the summit, it is then just a short descent to today's stage destination, Rifugio Torrani, which sits just below the summit.
Total time: 8 h | ↑ 1,850 m | ↓ 250 m | Difficulty: C (via ferrata)
⌂ Rifugio Torrani (2,984 m)
Day 2: Tissi and descent
After what will hopefully be a restful night, in which we can recover from the strenuous first day, the second day brings the descent from the Civetta. For this, we choose the Tissi via ferrata. This equally rewarding and beautiful via ferrata leads us down into the Val delle Sasse and over the col of the same name onto the Sentiero Tivan, which takes us back to Rifugio Coldai and on down into the valley, where we parked our car the day before.
Total time: 5.5 h | ↑ 250 m | ↓ 1,850 m | Difficulty: C (via ferrata)
The story of the first ascent
In 1860, the hunter Simone de Silvestro, together with other hunting companions whose names are not known, became the first people to deliberately reach the highest point of the Civetta. They climbed through the south-east flank of the mountain via the route known today as the Tivan route, which is now also the normal route and therefore the easiest ascent to the summit. The starting point for their venture was the village of Val di Zoldo. Today, in addition to the normal route, there are also several beautiful via ferratas that make an ascent of the Civetta possible for far more people – for example the Ferrata degli Alleghesi or the Ferrata Tissi.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Civetta traverse suitable for?
The tour is suitable for experienced mountaineers who are comfortable on long via ferratas in difficult terrain. Fitness for two demanding days and sure-footedness are important on the Civetta.
Where do we stay overnight during the tour?
We spend the night at Rifugio Torrani, directly below the summit of the Civetta. It is precisely this location that gives the tour its special character, as you are right in the middle of high-alpine terrain.
What equipment do I need to bring?
The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountain boots and clothing for high-alpine terrain. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtiroler Bergführer for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# CIVETTA # MOUNTAIN GUIDE # FERRATA ALLEGHESI # FERRATA TISSI # DOLOMITES