1860
3,220 m
Simone de Silvestro
CIVETTA
Exceedance (C)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
340,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Civetta is widely known among climbers as the arena for sixth-grade climbers, as alpine climbing history has been written many times on its impressive northwest face. Thanks to this massive, steep, and forbidding north face, it is truly an impressive sight and a symbol of the Dolomites. Standing on this flagship Dolomite mountain should be on the agenda for every lover of this unique mountain world. The ascents on the east side, where the normal route also lies, have been made safer by wire ropes. This has created some of the most beautiful and impressive via ferratas in the entire Dolomites. They lead to one of the highest peaks and are definitely worth a visit, even if they have taken away some of the seriousness and difficulty of the Civetta: It remains a high-alpine peak that should only be attempted by experienced mountaineers.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Civetta - Ferrata Alleghesi and Ferrata Tissi: Not much remains of what the first climbers found on the Civetta. This impressive peak has since been secured with steel cables on almost all routes, including the normal route chosen by the first climbers and two other ascents. And since this mountain has already been opened to many people, we will combine the most beautiful of these via ferratas into one wonderful traverse. While the character of the tour has changed, the beauty of the Civetta, no matter where you view it from on future Dolomite tours, will always remain. It is and remains an imposing and breathtaking rock landscape, and a special atmosphere prevails in the Civetta massif.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Torrani Hut
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Civetta Group
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Pecol - Pian del Crep cable car valley station (opposite Civetta Camping)
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for a long climb with 1,700 meters of elevation gain
- Some via ferrata experience
- No fear of heights
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ferrata degli Alleghesi
We meet at the valley station of the "Pian del Crep" cable car above Pecol (opposite the Civetta campsite). There is a large free parking lot here. After a quick gear check, we begin our ascent to the Civetta. After about 2.5 hours, this climb takes us past the Rifugio Coldai. We follow the trail south from the hut until, after another hour, we reach the start of the Via degli Alleghesi via ferrata (C). We follow the long via ferrata, which will lead us directly to the highest point of the Civetta. From the summit, it is only a short descent to today's destination: the Rifugio Torrani, which is just below the summit.
Day 2: Ferrata Tissi
After a hopefully restful night, where we were able to recover from the strenuous first day, the second day begins with the descent from the Civetta. For this, we will choose the Tissi via ferrata (C). This equally rewarding and beautiful via ferrata leads us down into the "Val delle Sasse" and over the col of the same name to the Sentiero Tivan, which takes us back to the Rifugio Coldai and further down into the valley where we parked our car the day before.
The story of the first ascent
The hunter Simone de Silvestro, along with other hunting companions whose names are unknown, was the first person to deliberately reach the highest point of the Civetta in 1860. They reached the southeast flank of the mountain via the route now known as the Tivanweg, which has since become the normal route and thus the easiest ascent to the summit. Their starting point for their venture was the town of Val di Zoldo. In addition to the normal route, there are now several beautiful via ferratas that make climbing the Civetta accessible to many more people. Examples include the Ferrata degli Alleghesi and the Ferrata Tissi.
