1870
3.030 mt.
Johann Baptist Vinatzer
FURCHETTA
Normal route (III-)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
330,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Furchetta is the highest peak in the Odle Group. The northern flanks, visible from Villnöß, are particularly impressive. The north faces of Furchetta, Sas Rigais, and other peaks in the Odle Group plummet down into the valley at a dizzying 800 meters of vertical rock, making this view, especially from Ranui and its photogenic chapel, a popular photo opportunity. However, the ascent to the Furchetta is far more beautiful and impressive, and in this context, truly solitary. Incidentally, it takes its name from the distinctive fork (Italian: forchetta) that separates the two peaks, the Big and Little Furchetta.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Furchetta - Normal Route: The tour is approached primarily from the south, from the Val Gardena. The option of saving several meters of elevation gain by taking the Col Raiser cable car offers a significant advantage over the significantly longer ascent from Villnöß. The approach follows stunning hiking trails along beautiful alpine meadows and into a breathtaking Dolomite cirque to the Salieres Forcella. From here, the lonely part of the tour begins, a rather tricky and, above all, challenging route through the south-facing rock faces of the Furchetta. In the lower section, the climbing sections are still very easy and range from grade I-II. Shortly before the summit, the climbing becomes somewhat more difficult, although even here only grade III- is manageable. Thus, it is less the technical climbing difficulties that distinguish this tour, but rather the adventurous Dolomite character, tricky route finding, and plenty of loose rock – the reward is one of the most exclusive 3,000-meter peaks in the Dolomites and a breathtaking view from the highest peak of the Odle peaks.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Cable car ticket for Col Raiser
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Villnößer Geisler
Best time of year:
July - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
St. Christina - Col Raiser cable car parking lot
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents
PRICING
PROGRAM
We meet at the valley station of the Col Raiser cable car in Santa Cristina (Val Gardena). After a quick gear check, we'll take the first gondola and begin the approach across beautiful alpine meadows into the Wasserrinnental valley and then continue along well-trodden hiking trails to the Salieres Forcella.
The challenging part of the tour begins at the Salieres Forcella. Here, we'll put on our gear (harness and climbing helmet), and you'll be secured by the mountain guide's rope. Initially, there are a few climbing sections up to grade II to tackle.
The middle section of the tour is characterized by finding the easiest route without having to tackle any difficult climbing sections. Only once we get closer to the summit do we have to get more active and tackle numerous more climbing sections up to grade III.
At the summit, we'll be rewarded with a breathtaking view. To the north, the infamous north face of the Furchetta plunges 800 meters vertically toward Villnöß, and to the south we enjoy views of the Sassolungo group, the Sella massif, and beyond, the Marmolada.
The descent follows the same route as the ascent.
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent took place in 1870, when Johann Baptist Vinatzer, a hunter from Val Gardena, climbed solo to the summit of the Grosse Furchetta. Vinatzer later became a mountain guide. The official first ascent was not made until 10 years later by Johann Santner, on September 3, 1880. Also notorious are the attempts to climb the Furchetta North Face, where the two top climbers of the time, Hans Dülfer and Luis Trenker, initially failed in 1914. It wasn't until 1925 that Emil Solleder and Fritz Wiesner made the first ascent of this face.
