1870
3,025 m
Johann Baptist Vinatzer
FURCHETTA
Normal route (III-)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€550
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
1 day
Furchetta – Normal route
A solitary ascent to the highest summit of the Geisler group – far more impressive than any photo taken from below.
3,025 m · Difficulty III- · 6.5 h · Geisler group
The Furchetta is the highest peak in the Geisler group. The north flanks in particular, as seen from Villnöß, are breathtaking. With a dizzying 800 metres of vertical rock, the north faces of the Furchetta, Sas Rigais and the other Geisler peaks plunge down into the valley, making this sight – especially from Ranui with its photogenic chapel – a popular photo motif.
But the ascent of the Furchetta is far more beautiful, more impressive and, in this respect, truly very solitary. Incidentally, the mountain takes its name from the distinctive notch (Italian: forchetta, "fork") that separates its two summits, the Große and Kleine Furchetta. It is precisely this contrast that defines the tour: below, the famous postcard view; above, a quiet, serious route with real Dolomite character
THE TOUR
Furchetta – normal route:
The tour is mostly tackled from the south, from Val Gardena. Being able to save a good number of vertical metres with the Col Raiser cable car is a big advantage over the much longer ascent from Villnöß. This is followed by an approach on lovely hiking trails past alpine meadows and into the Wasserrinnental up to the Salieresscharte.
From here the solitary part of the tour begins, and this is exactly what gives the normal route its appeal: a rather intricate route through the south-facing rock faces of the Furchetta, demanding above all in terms of route-finding. In the lower section the climbing is still very easy, around grade I–II. Shortly before the summit it gets a little harder again, although even here it is no more than III-.
So it is less the technical climbing difficulty that sets this tour apart, and more its adventurous Dolomite character, tricky route-finding and plenty of loose rock. The reward is one of the most exclusive three-thousanders in the Dolomites and a magnificent view from the highest summit of the Geisler group.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Col Raiser cable car ticket
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Villnößer Geisler
Best time of year:
July - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
St. Christina - car park at the Col Raiser cable car
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Climbing at grade III
- Sure-footedness, even on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Very good fitness for a long climbing day with a strenuous ascent and descent
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price from
€550
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Ascent of the Furchetta
We meet at the valley station of the Col Raiser cable car in St. Christina in Val Gardena. After a short gear check we take the first gondola and set off on the approach across beautiful alpine meadows into the Wasserrinnental and on to the Salieresscharte on well-trodden hiking trails.
At the Salieresscharte the demanding part of the tour begins. Here we put on our gear, and you are belayed on the rope of your South Tyrolean mountain guide. Right at the start there are a few climbing sections up to grade II. The middle part of the tour is more about finding the easiest line, without constantly having to master difficult climbing sections. Only as we get closer to the summit do we need to use our hands more often again and tackle further climbing sections up to grade III-.
At the summit we are rewarded with a magnificent view. To the north, the notorious north face of the Furchetta drops 800 metres vertically towards Villnöß; to the south, the view stretches to the Langkofel group, the Sella massif and beyond to the Marmolada. The descent follows the ascent route.
Total time: 6.5 h | ↑ 900 m | ↓ 900 m | Difficulty: III-
Info: Without the cable car, the approach takes approx. 2.5 h and 600 vertical metres longer.
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent was made as early as 1870, when Johann Baptist Vinatzer, a hunter from Val Gardena, climbed solo to the summit of the Große Furchetta. Vinatzer later also became a mountain guide. The official first ascent, however, was not made until 10 years later, by Johann Santner on 3 September 1880. Also notorious are the attempts on the Furchetta north face, where the two top climbers of the day, Hans Dülfer and Luis Trenker, initially failed in 1914. It was not until 1925 that Emil Solleder and Fritz Wiessner made the first ascent of this face.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Furchetta normal route suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed mountaineers with a head for heights, good fitness and some climbing experience. The normal route calls for confident movement in exposed terrain and a liking for a somewhat wild, solitary route.
How technical is the Furchetta tour?
The difficulties on the normal route go up to III-. The lower section is easier still; near the summit you have to use your hands more often. However, it is not only the climbing that is demanding, but also the route-finding and the partly loose rock.
What do I need to bring for the tour?
Above all, you need approach shoes with a good climbing sole and suitable clothing for a long day in the Dolomites. The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from your South Tyrolean mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
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MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# FURCHETTA # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE