1869
2,999 mt.
Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler, Peter Salcher
GROSSE ZINNE
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
330,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Drei Zinnen: The Great Cime di Lavaredo is the flagship of the Dolomites. Together with its two neighbors, the Western Cime di Lavaredo and the Small Cime di Lavaredo, it forms one of the most famous mountain formations on earth. Climbing history has been written many times on the Three Peaks, beginning with the first ascent by Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler, and Peter Salcher in 1869. To this day, the limits of what was considered possible have been repeatedly pushed upwards on the peaks. Another milestone was the 1933 ascent by Emilio Comici, Angelo Dimai, and Giuseppe Dimai up the forbidding north face of the Great Cime di Lavaredo. Grade VI was achieved here for the first time, and the route is now one of the greatest classics for alpine climbers. Despite its impressive appearance, the normal route can be conquered with relatively easy climbing. However, the complicated routefinding and the required rope techniques pose serious problems for most summit aspirants.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Cima Grande - Normal Route: The starting point for this unique climbing route on the Cima Grande is the car park of the Auronzo Hut above Misurina. First, the route follows a short section below the southern flanks of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, then zigzags up the scree fields to the entry point between the Cima Grande and Cima Grande. Here, we rope up and begin the enjoyable climb. Via the entry ramp and a chimney gully, we reach the lower scree ledge. Walking terrain alternates with easy climbing passages in an impressive setting. The crux of the route is in a chimney near the top. Once this is overcome, we reach the ring ledge below the summit. We traverse along the ledge for a short distance until we reach a suitable passage and begin the final meters of climbing. We realize how impressive the achievement of the first climbers in 1869 already was as soon as we stand on the summit and have needed roughly the same ascent time to reach the highest of the Three Peaks as Grohmann, Innerkofler and Salcher back then.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Auronzo Hut toll fees
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
approx. 7 hours
Meeting point:
Dürrensee parking lot
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- Freedom from vertigo
PRICING
PROGRAM
We meet at Lake Dürrensee and head together to the Auronzo Hut, directly beneath the south walls of the Three Peaks.
After a quick equipment check, we head toward the access ramp between the Kleine Zinne and the Große Zinne (approx. 1 hour). Accompanied by a stunning sunrise and the first rays of sunshine of the day.
Once we reach the start of the Große Zinne, we rope up and climb along the normal route through exciting, entertaining, and beautiful terrain to the highest peak of the Three Peaks. Enjoyable climbing sections alternate with easier walking terrain.
After about 3 hours of climbing, we reach the 2,999-meter-high summit.
The panorama is stunning, and the surrounding Dolomite peaks make the summit break an unforgettable experience. Afterwards, we face the descent, which will take just as long as the ascent.
With a short rope and several abseils, we return to the foot of the Three Peaks in another 3 hours.
The entire tour takes approximately 7 hours.
The story of the first ascent
The year 1869 was to be Paul Grohmann's year. After he had already achieved the first ascents of the Sassolungo and the Dreischusterspitze that year, the highlight came on August 21st, the Great Cime di Lavaredo. Franz Innerkofler, who had already conducted some reconnaissance, led the group to the summit in less than three hours via the normal route, which is still the most frequently climbed today. Grohmann had previously circumnavigated the Three Peaks, and upon seeing the north face, he said: "Here, on these cliffs, on these truly vertical cliffs, only a bird could climb them."
