1869
2,999 mt.
Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler, Peter Salcher
GROSSE ZINNE
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
330,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Cima Grande is the iconic peak of the Dolomites – and its Normal Route is a truly सुंदर climbing tour in the Sexten Dolomites.
Difficulty III+ / IV- (UIAA) · 7.5 h · Sexten Dolomites
Cima Grande is the emblem of the Dolomites. Together with its two neighbours, Cima Ovest and Cima Piccola, it forms one of the most famous mountain groups anywhere on Earth.
The Tre Cime di Lavaredo have seen climbing history written time and again – beginning with the first ascent by Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher in 1869. To this day, the limits of what was thought possible have repeatedly been pushed higher on these towers. Another milestone was the ascent by Emilio Comici and Angelo and Giuseppe Dimai in 1933 via the forbidding north face of Cima Grande.
It was here that Grade VI was reached for the first time, and today the route is one of the greatest classics for alpine climbers. Despite its imposing appearance, the Normal Route can be climbed on relatively moderate ground. However, the complex route-finding and the ropework required present serious problems for most summit aspirants. This is exactly where it is worth its weight in gold to be out with a South Tyrolean mountain guide.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Cima Grande via the Normal Route:
The starting point for this unique climbing route is the car park of Auronzohütte above Misurina. First, we follow the path for a short distance below the southern flanks of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, before ascending via a zigzag trail across the scree slopes to the start between Cima Piccola and Cima Grande.
Here we rope up and begin the enjoyable climbing. Via the entry ramp and a chimney gully, we reach the lower scree ledge. Time and again, walking terrain alternates with easy climbing passages in an impressive setting. This very mix is what gives the tour its appeal: it is not a pure climbing line from bottom to top, but an alpine route where route-finding also plays its part.
The crux is located in a chimney in the upper part of the route. Once this section is overcome, we reach the ledge system below the summit. We traverse along the ledge for a short distance until we reach a suitable passage to tackle the final metres of climbing. Just how impressive the achievement of the first ascensionists already was in 1869 becomes clear at the latest when you stand on the summit yourself and need roughly the same ascent time to the highest of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo as Grohmann, Innerkofler and Salcher did back then.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Auronzo Hut toll fees
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
approx. 7 hours
Meeting point:
Lake Misurina parking lot
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- Freedom from vertigo
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
550,- €
330,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Up Cima Grande
We meet at Dürrensee and drive together to Auronzohütte, directly below the south faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. After a short gear check, we set off towards the entry ramp between Cima Piccola and Cima Grande. The approach is short, but scenically it is already an opening act that leaves you wanting more. Once at the start, we rope up and climb through exciting, varied terrain along the Normal Route to the highest summit of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Enjoyable climbing sections are repeatedly broken up by easier scrambling and walking terrain.
After the climbing, we reach the summit of Cima Grande. At the top, there is time for a short rest and views of the surrounding Dolomite peaks. Afterwards, the descent still lies ahead, and it occupies us for roughly as long as the ascent. Moving together on a short rope and over a few abseil points, we make our way back to the foot of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and finally return to Auronzohütte.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 750 m ascent | ↓ 750 m descent | Difficulty: III+ / IV- (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
The year 1869 was to be Paul Grohmann's year. After he had already achieved the first ascents of the Sassolungo and the Dreischusterspitze that year, the highlight came on August 21st, the Great Cime di Lavaredo. Franz Innerkofler, who had already conducted some reconnaissance, led the group to the summit in less than three hours via the normal route, which is still the most frequently climbed today. Grohmann had previously circumnavigated the Three Peaks, and upon seeing the north face, he said: "Here, on these cliffs, on these truly vertical cliffs, only a bird could climb them."
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How difficult is the Normal Route on Cima Grande?
The tour is graded III+ / IV- (UIAA) and is not extremely difficult technically, but it requires confident movement on rock, stamina and, above all, a good feel for alpine terrain. Route-finding on Cima Grande is an important part of the tour.
How long does the tour on Cima Grande take?
For the full tour, you should allow around 7.5 hours. This includes the approach, the climbing on the Normal Route and the descent with short abseils back towards Auronzohütte.
What do I need to bring for the tour?
Most important are mountaineering boots and suitable climbing clothing. You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be hired for a small wear-and-tear fee.
