1869
2,999 m
Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler, Peter Salcher
GROSSE ZINNE
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€550
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
1 day
Große Zinne – Normal route
Cima Grande is the figurehead of the Dolomites
Difficulty III+ / IV- (UIAA) · 7.5 h · Sexten Dolomites
Cima Grande is the figurehead of the Dolomites. Together with its two neighbours, Cima Ovest and Cima Piccola, it forms one of the best-known mountain formations on Earth.
Climbing history has been written on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo time and again – starting with the first ascent by Paul Grohmann, Franz Innerkofler and Peter Salcher in 1869. To this day, the limits of what was thought possible have been pushed ever higher on these peaks. Another milestone was the 1933 ascent of the forbidding north face of Cima Grande by Emilio Comici and Angelo and Giuseppe Dimai.
At the time, the route was among the most difficult in grade VI, and today the route is one of the great classics for alpine climbers. Despite its impressive appearance, the normal route can be climbed with relatively easy climbing. However, the complicated route-finding and the rope techniques required pose serious problems for most summit hopefuls. This is exactly where being out with a South Tyrolean mountain guide is worth its weight in gold.
THE TOUR
Cima Grande via the normal route:
The starting point for this unique climbing route is the car park at the Auronzohütte above Misurina. First we walk a short way beneath the south flanks of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, then climb a zigzag path across the scree fields to the start of the route between Cima Piccola and Cima Grande.
Here we rope up and begin the enjoyable climbing. Via the entry ramp and a chimney gully we reach the lower scree ledge. Walking terrain and easy climbing passages alternate again and again in an impressive setting. It is precisely this mix that makes the tour so appealing: it is not a pure climbing line from bottom to top, but an alpine route on which route-finding also plays its part.
The crux is a chimney in the upper part of the route. Once past it, we reach the ring ledge below the summit. We traverse along the ledge for a while until, at a suitable spot, we tackle the final metres of climbing. Just how impressive the first ascensionists' achievement was back in 1869 becomes clear at the latest when you stand on the summit yourself, having needed roughly the same ascent time to the highest of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo as Grohmann, Innerkofler and Salcher did back then.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Toll for the Auronzohütte road
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Lago di Landro
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Climbing up to grade III
- Sure-footedness, even on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price from
€550
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Up Cima Grande
We meet at the Dürrensee and drive together to the Auronzohütte, directly below the south faces of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. After a short gear check, we set off towards the entry ramp between Cima Piccola and Cima Grande. The approach is short, but scenically it is already a prelude that leaves you wanting more. Once at the start, we rope up and climb through exciting, varied terrain along the normal route to the highest summit of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Along the way, enjoyable climbing passages keep alternating with easier walking terrain.
After the climbing we reach the summit of Cima Grande. At the top there is time for a short rest and a look at the surrounding Dolomite peaks. Then the descent still lies ahead, which takes us roughly as long as the ascent. On a short rope and via several abseils we return to the foot of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo and finally to the Auronzohütte.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 750 m | ↓ 750 m | Difficulty: III+ / IV- (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
The year 1869 was to be Paul Grohmann's year. Having already made the first ascents of the Langkofel and the Dreischusterspitze that year, he crowned it on 21 August with Cima Grande. Franz Innerkofler, who had already scouted the mountain beforehand, led the group to the summit in less than 3 hours via the normal route, which is still the most frequently climbed route today. Grohmann had previously walked around the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and on seeing the north face he said: "Up these precipices, these truly vertical walls, only a bird could ever climb."
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How difficult is the normal route on Cima Grande?
The tour is graded III+ / IV- (UIAA). Technically it is not extremely difficult, but it requires confident movement on rock, stamina and, above all, a good feel for alpine terrain. Route-finding is an important part of the tour on Cima Grande.
How long does the tour on Cima Grande take?
You should allow around 7.5 hours for the whole tour. This includes the approach, the climb via the normal route and the descent with short abseils back towards the Auronzohütte.
What do I need to bring for the tour?
Above all, you need mountain boots and suitable climbing clothing. You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented for a small wear-and-tear fee.
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MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# GROSSE ZINNE # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE