1800
3,798 m
Matthias Hautzendorfer, Sepp Klotz, Martin Reicher, Martin Klotz
GROSSGLOCKNER
Bishop Salm Way (AD-, II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
500,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Großglockner is Austria's highest peak. At 3,798 meters, it towers above the surrounding peaks of the Hohe Tauern and is one of the most striking and well-known peaks in the Eastern Alps. Due to its relatively early first ascent in 1800, the Großglockner has played an important role in the development of mountaineering in the Alps. Even today, with over 5,000 ascents per year, it remains one of the most popular summit destinations. Several beautiful climbs from all sides of this striking rock pyramid, surrounded by wild glaciers, can be discovered here. One of the most famous and beautiful ridge climbs in the entire Eastern Alps is the Stüdlgrat; on the north side, there are other well-known ice climbs such as the Mayerlrampe and the Pallavicinirinne. With the ascent via the Stüdlhütte and the route of the first ascents through the Leitertal valley, the Großglockner also offers two exciting normal routes.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Grossglockner - Bishop Salm Trail: Since its first ascent in 1800, this beautiful climb through the Leitertal Valley has been the usual ascent from Heiligenblut. It is no longer a common standard route, but due to its scenic beauty and significantly lower traffic, it is a more than worthwhile alternative. The starting point is the Glocknerhaus on the Glockner High Alpine Road. From here, the route continues through the Leitertal Valley to the Salmhütte – the historic site where the Carinthian Archbishop Franz Xaver Graf von Salm-Reifferscheid built the first hut in 1799, which became an important base for the first ascent. The Salmhütte would be a first overnight option. From the hut, the route continues over the Hohenwartscharte (secured with ropes at certain points) to the Hofmannkees and over the Salmkamp to the Erzherzog Johann Hütte, the second and more conveniently located overnight option. This is followed by the ascent over the infamous Glocknerleitl, a steep and, in midsummer, often bare ice flank, to the east face of the Kleinglockner. Here begins the rock and ridge climbing to the summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Erzherzog Johann Hut (or the Salm Hut)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
High Tauern
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Glocknerhaus - Glockner High Alpine Road
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Good physical condition for 8 hours of walking and 1,800 meters of elevation gain
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ascent to Adlersruhe (Erzherzog Johann Hut)
We meet at the Glocknerhaus, which is located directly on the toll-paying Glockner High Alpine Road. After a brief gear check, we begin our ascent through the scenic Leitertal valley to the Salmhütte (overnight accommodation available - approx. 3.5 hours from the Glocknerhaus). Normally, we will continue from the Salmhütte to the better-situated Erzherzog Johann Hut. We reach the Hofmannkees via the Hohenwartscharte, secured with ropes, and then the Salmkamp via the hut, also known as Adlersruhe (3.5 hours from the Salmhütte).
Day 2: Summit of the Grossglockner
The next morning, we set off early and ascend via the "Glocknerleitl" to the entrance to the east face of the Kleinglockner. First, we climb the Kleinglockner and descend an exposed ridge to the Glocknerscharte. From here, Austria's highest peak is not far away, and we reach this magnificent vantage point shortly thereafter (Adlersruhe - summit 2-3 hours). The descent follows the ascent route back to the Glocknerhaus (descent: summit - Glocknerhaus approx. 5 hours).
The story of the first ascent
As early as 1799, the Carinthian Archbishop Franz Xaver Graf von Salm-Reifferscheid made the first serious attempt, with enormous effort, to climb the Großglockner in the interest of science. Among other things, the Salmhütte was built as a base camp at 2,644 meters. However, this attempt failed due to heavy snowfall. Nevertheless, misleading reports attempted to portray this expedition as a success, even though preparations for a second expedition the following year had begun that same year. With a team of 62 participants, including countless clergy and scientists, four farmers and carpenters finally reached the summit on July 28, 1800.
