1800
3,798 m
Matthias Hautzendorfer, Sepp Klotz, Martin Reicher, Martin Klotz
GROSSGLOCKNER
Bishop Salm Way (AD-, II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
450,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Grossglockner is a great classic of the Hohe Tauern – steeped in history, striking in form, and offering an astonishing number of exciting ascents.
3,798 m · Difficulty AD-, II · 2 days · Hohe Tauern
Grossglockner is Austria’s highest summit. At 3,798 metres, it towers above the surrounding peaks of the Hohe Tauern and is one of the most striking and best-known summits in the Eastern Alps. Owing to its relatively early first ascent in 1800, Grossglockner played an important role in the development of alpinism in the Alps. Even today, with more than 5,000 ascents per year, it remains one of the most popular summit objectives.
From every side of this striking rock pyramid, ringed by wild glaciers, there are several beautiful routes to discover. One of the best-known and finest ridge climbs in the entire Eastern Alps is the Stüdlgrat. On the north face there are further widely known ice climbs such as the Mayerlrampe and the Pallavicinirinne. With the ascent via the Stüdlhütte as well as the route of the first ascensionists through the Leitertal, Grossglockner also offers two exciting normal routes.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Grossglockner via the Bischof Salm Weg: Since the first ascent in 1800, this beautiful route through the Leitertal has been the customary ascent from Heiligenblut. It is no longer used as the standard normal route, but thanks to its scenic beauty and significantly lower traffic, it is more than a worthwhile alternative.
The starting point is the Glocknerhaus on the Grossglockner High Alpine Road. From here, the route leads through the Leitertal to the Salmhütte – the historic place where the Carinthian bishop Franz Xaver Graf von Salm-Reifferscheid had the first hut built as early as 1799, which became an important base for the first ascent. The Salmhütte would be a first overnight option. From the hut, the route continues over the Hohenwartscharte, partly protected with fixed ropes, onto the Hofmannkees and via the Salmkamp to the Erzherzog Johann Hütte, the second and more favourably located overnight option.
This is followed by the ascent via the notorious Glocknerleitl, a steep slope of ice that is often bare in high summer, into the east face of Kleinglockner. Here the rock and ridge climbing to the summit begins. It is precisely this combination of history, glacier ascent, and easy climbing that makes the tour on Grossglockner from this side especially exciting.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1x overnight stay with half board at the Erzherzog Johann Hut (or the Salm Hut)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
High Tauern
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Glocknerhaus - Glockner High Alpine Road
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Good physical condition for 8 hours of walking and 1,800 meters of elevation gain
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
Participants:
max. 3 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
3 people:
1.000,- €
600,- €
450,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ascent to Adlersruhe
We meet at the Glocknerhaus, located directly on the toll Grossglockner High Alpine Road. After a short gear check, we begin our ascent through the scenically beautiful Leitertal up to the Salmhütte. It would already be a possible overnight stop; normally, however, we continue up to the better-situated Erzherzog Johann Hütte. Via the rope-protected Hohenwartscharte we reach the Hofmannkees and finally the hut via the Salmkamp, which is also known as Adlersruhe.
Walking time: 7 h | ↑ 1,550 m | ↓ 250 m
⌂ Erzherzog Johann Hütte (Adlersruhe)
Day 2: Summit day on Grossglockner
Early the next morning we set off and ascend via the Glocknerleitl to the start of the east face of Kleinglockner. First we climb Kleinglockner and then descend along an exposed ridge into the Glocknerscharte. From here, Austria’s highest summit is no longer far away, and shortly afterwards we reach the Grossglockner. The descent follows the ascent route back to the Glocknerhaus.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 600 m | ↓ 1,900 m | Difficulty: AD-, II
The story of the first ascent
As early as 1799, the Carinthian Archbishop Franz Xaver Graf von Salm-Reifferscheid made the first serious attempt, with enormous effort, to climb the Großglockner in the interest of science. Among other things, the Salmhütte was built as a base camp at 2,644 meters. However, this attempt failed due to heavy snowfall. Nevertheless, misleading reports attempted to portray this expedition as a success, even though preparations for a second expedition the following year had begun that same year. With a team of 62 participants, including countless clergy and scientists, four farmers and carpenters finally reached the summit on July 28, 1800.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How demanding is the Grossglockner tour via the Bischof Salm Weg?
The tour is a classic guided mountaineering tour with a difficulty of AD-, II. You should be sure-footed, have good fitness for two long days, and feel comfortable in rocky and glaciated terrain.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
Normally, we stay at the Erzherzog Johann Hütte, also known as Adlersruhe. The Salmhütte would also be a possible stop on the way; however, the higher hut is usually the better option for summit day.
What do I need to bring for the tour?
You will receive the detailed packing list in the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and functional clothing for a long mountaineering tour. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtiroler Bergführer for a small wear-and-tear fee.
