1800
3,798 m
Matthias Hautzendorfer, Sepp Klotz, Martin Reicher, Martin Klotz
GROSSGLOCKNER
Bischof Salm Weg (AD-, II)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€1,000
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
2 days
Großglockner – Bishop Salm route
The Grossglockner is one of the great classics of the Hohe Tauern
3,798 m · Difficulty AD-, II · 2 days · Hohe Tauern
The Grossglockner is Austria's highest summit. At 3,798 metres it towers above the surrounding peaks of the Hohe Tauern and is one of the most striking and best-known summits in the Eastern Alps. Thanks to its relatively early first ascent in 1800, the Grossglockner played an important role in the development of alpinism in the Alps. Today, with more than 5,000 ascents a year, it is still one of the most popular summit objectives.
Every side of this striking rock pyramid, ringed by wild glaciers, offers several beautiful routes to discover. One of the best-known and finest ridge climbs in the entire Eastern Alps is the Stüdlgrat. On the north side there are other widely known ice routes such as the Mayerlrampe and the Pallavicinirinne. With the ascent via the Stüdlhütte and the route of the first ascensionists through the Leitertal, the Grossglockner also boasts two exciting normal routes.
THE TOUR
The Grossglockner via the Bischof Salm Weg: ever since the first ascent in 1800, this beautiful route through the Leitertal has been the classic ascent from Heiligenblut. Although it is no longer used as the standard normal route, its scenic beauty and far smaller crowds make it a more than worthwhile alternative.
The starting point is the Glocknerhaus on the Grossglockner High Alpine Road. From here we head through the Leitertal to the Salmhütte – the historic spot where the Gurk prince-bishop Franz Xaver Graf von Salm-Reifferscheid had the first hut built back in 1799, which became an important base for the first ascent. The Salmhütte would be a first overnight option. From the hut we continue over the Hohenwartscharte, protected with fixed ropes in places, onto the Hofmannkees and via the Salmkamp to the Erzherzog Johann Hütte, the second and better-placed overnight option.
Next comes the ascent via the notorious Glocknerleitl, a steep ice slope that is often bare in high summer, into the east face of the Kleinglockner. This is where the rock and ridge climbing to the summit begins. It is precisely this mix of history, glacier ascent and easy climbing that makes climbing the Grossglockner from this side so exciting.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- 1x hut night with half board at the Erzherzog Johann Hütte (or at the Salmhütte)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Hohe Tauern
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Glocknerhaus - Grossglockner High Alpine Road
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
- Good fitness for 8 hours of walking and 1,800 metres of ascent
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Good acclimatisation
PRICE
Participants:
max. 3 people
Price from
€1,000
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Ascent to the Adlersruhe
We meet at the Glocknerhaus, which lies right on the toll Grossglockner High Alpine Road. After a quick gear check, we begin our ascent through the scenic Leitertal to the Salmhütte. This would already be an overnight option, but we normally carry on up to the better-placed Erzherzog Johann Hütte. Via the rope-protected Hohenwartscharte we reach the Hofmannkees and finally, via the Salmkamp, the hut, which is also known as the Adlersruhe.
Walking time: 7 h | ↑ 1,550 m | ↓ 250 m
⌂ Erzherzog Johann Hütte (Adlersruhe)
Day 2: Summit day on the Grossglockner
We set off early the next morning and climb via the Glocknerleitl to the start of the east face of the Kleinglockner. First we climb the Kleinglockner and then descend an exposed ridge into the Glocknerscharte. From here Austria's highest summit is not far away, and shortly afterwards we reach the top of the Grossglockner. The descent follows the ascent route back to the Glocknerhaus.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 600 m | ↓ 1,900 m | Difficulty: AD-, II
The story of the first ascent
As early as 1799, the Gurk prince-bishop Franz Xaver Graf von Salm-Reifferscheid made a first serious attempt, at enormous expense, to climb the Grossglockner in the interest of science. Among other things, the Salmhütte was specially built at 2,644 metres as a base. However, this attempt failed due to heavy snowfall. Nevertheless, misleading reports tried to present the expedition as a success, even though preparations for another expedition the following year had begun that very same year. With a team of 62 participants in total, including countless clergymen and scientists, it was ultimately four farmers and carpenters who reached the summit on 28 July 1800.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How demanding is the Grossglockner tour via the Bischof Salm Weg?
The tour is a classic guided alpine tour graded AD-, II. You should be sure-footed, have the stamina for two long days and feel at ease on both rocky and glaciated terrain.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
We normally stay at the Erzherzog Johann Hütte, also known as the Adlersruhe. The Salmhütte along the way would also be an option, but the higher hut is usually better placed for summit day.
What do I need to bring for the tour?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountain boots and functional clothing for a long alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# GROSSGLOCKNER # BISCHOF SALM WEG # MOUNTAIN GUIDE