1868
3.436 mt.
Karl Hofmann, Valentin Kaltdorff, Georg Wels, Hansl Oberarzbacher
HOCHGALL
Northwest Ridge (AD-)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€700
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
2 days
Hochgall – Normal route
A beautifully shaped peak: the Hochgall via the Northwest Ridge - a fine ridge climb in the Rieserferner Group
3,436 m · Difficulty AD- / ZS- (II-III) · 2 days · Rieserferner Group
The "high gleaming mountain", as it was called in historical records, together with its neighbour the Wildgall, known as the "wild shimmering mountain", forms an impressive mountain backdrop in the Rieserferner Group.
It is not only the highest peak in this range, but also not easy to climb from any side. There is a normal route to the summit from the Barmer Hütte via the east flank and the Northeast Ridge, and another from the Kasseler Hütte via the Graues Nöckl and the Northwest Ridge. Both are wonderful ridge climbs and a very special mountain experience on one of the most beautifully shaped peaks in the entire Eastern Alps.
The north face, very popular until the 1980s, has now almost completely melted away and is only rarely climbed. That is precisely why, for many, the ascent via the Northwest Ridge is today the finest line on the Hochgall: varied, airy and with just the right degree of seriousness.
THE TOUR
At 3,436 metres, the Hochgall is the highest summit of the Rieserferner Group, and its very shape makes it a mountain that stands out: free-standing, striking and serious from every side. The ascent via the Northwest Ridge actually starts much lower down in the Reintal, at the car park by the Säge.
The path climbs steeply through the forest and after around 700 metres of ascent reaches the Kasseler Hütte. If you would rather not tackle this approach on summit day as well, you are well advised to spend the night there. The hut is an ideal base for the tour and makes the second day far more manageable.
From the hut we continue to the Graues Nöckl, where the exciting and truly beautiful ridge climbing begins. That is exactly what makes the route so rewarding: not just a plod uphill, but a varied line with real alpine character. The descent follows the ascent route. From the hut to the summit and back, allow around 7 to 8 hours, plus the descent to the valley.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Hut overnight stay with half board at the Kasseler Hütte (approx. €60)
- Mountain guide's expenses (overnight stay)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Rieserferner Group
Best time of year:
Mid-June - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Car park at Gasthaus Säge - Reintal
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Climbing at grade II
- Sure-footedness
Key to enjoyment
- Good fitness for a strenuous summit day with an ascent and a long descent
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price from
€700
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
It is best to park at the Säge mountain snack inn in Rein in Taufers. From there a well-marked, technically easy hiking trail leads up to the Kasseler Hütte. The approach is straightforward and ideal for easing into the tour without any rush. If you walk up at a relaxed pace the day before, you save valuable energy for summit day and can start straight from the hut the next morning.
Walking time: 2 h | ↑ 700 m
⌂ Kasseler Hütte (2,276 m)
Day 2: Hochgall via the Northwest Ridge
Early in the morning we meet at the hut and set off together after breakfast. First we follow the path towards the Graues Nöckl, fairly easy-going at first, then increasingly alpine. Following the tracks, we reach the start of the climb. The climbing along the Northwest Ridge to the Hochgall is varied and exciting, with fine scrambling over blocks and plenty of airy passages. Time almost flies until we finally reach the summit. After a good long break, we descend along the ascent route back to the Kasseler Hütte and on down into the valley to the Säge.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,200 m | ↓ 1,900 m | Difficulty: AD- / ZS- (II-III)
Info: Alternatively, the tour can also be done as a day tour for the same price. However, this only makes sense for very fit and experienced mountaineers and should not be underestimated.
The story of the first ascent
A first attempt at the first ascent was made as early as 1854 by survey lieutenant Hermann von Acken and several survey assistants from Defereggen, via the Northwest Ridge. However, they only reached a rocky knoll on the summit ridge east of the summit notch, just below the top. The true highest point was reached on 3 August 1868 by Karl Hofmann and Valentin Kaltdorff with their mountain guides from Rein, Georg Wels and Hansl Oberarzbacher, via the west flank and the Northwest Ridge. Their route is still the normal route to the summit of the Hochgall today.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Hochgall via the Northwest Ridge suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed, fit mountaineers who already have climbing experience on easy rock. The Northwest Ridge is not a beginner's tour, but for experienced alpinists it is a superb guided alpine tour.
Do we meet in the valley or at the hut?
On the standard 2-day option, you make your own way up to the Kasseler Hütte the day before. On the morning of summit day we meet right at the hut and set off together from there for the Hochgall.
What equipment do I need to bring?
The detailed packing list comes with your confirmation email. Above all you need suitable mountaineering boots and weatherproof clothing. Technical equipment can be rented from your South Tyrol mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# HOCHGALL # NORMAL ROUTE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE