1868
3.436 mt.
Karl Hofmann, Valentin Kaltdorff, Georg Wels, Hansl Oberarzbacher
HOCHGALL
Northwest Ridge (AD-)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
420,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A beautifully shaped peak with a serious line: Hochgall via the Northwest Ridge is a truly beautiful ridge climb in the Rieserfernergruppe.
3,436 m · Difficulty AD- / ZS- (II-III) · 2 days · Rieserfernergruppe
The “high shining mountain”, as it was referred to in historical accounts, together with its neighbour Wildgall, described as the “wild shimmering mountain”, forms an impressive mountain backdrop in the Rieserfernergruppe.
It is not only the highest summit in this mountain group, but also not easy to climb from any side. There is both a normal route to the summit from the Barmer Hütte via the east face and the northeast ridge, and another from the Kasseler Hütte via Graues Nöckl and the Northwest Ridge. Both are wonderful ridge climbs and a very special mountain experience on one of the most elegant peaks in the entire Eastern Alps.
The north face, very popular until the 1980s, has now almost completely melted away and is only rarely climbed today. Precisely for that reason, the ascent via the Northwest Ridge is now for many the finest line on Hochgall: varied, airy, and with exactly the right degree of seriousness.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Hochgall, at 3,436 metres, is the highest summit of the Rieserfernergruppe and, by its very shape alone, a mountain that stands out. Free-standing, striking, and serious from every side. The ascent via the Northwest Ridge actually begins much lower down in the Reintal, at the car park by Säge.
The steep trail through the forest gains around 700 vertical metres to the Kasseler Hütte. If you do not want to take on this approach as well on summit day, an overnight stay there is highly advisable. The hut is an ideal base for the tour and makes the second day much more balanced.
From the hut the route continues to Graues Nöckl, where the exciting and genuinely beautiful ridge climbing begins. That is exactly what makes the route so rewarding: not just trudging uphill, but a varied line with true alpine character. The descent also follows the ascent route back. From the hut to the summit and back, you should allow around 7 to 8 hours, plus the descent into the valley.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Half-board accommodation at the Kasselerhütte (approx. €60)
- Mountain guide expenses (overnight accommodation)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Rieserferner Group
Best time of year:
Mid-June - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Parking lot Gasthaus Säge - Reintal
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade II climbing
- Surefootedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Good physical condition for a strenuous summit day with ascent and a long descent
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
€700
€420
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
It is best to park at the Säge snack station in Rein in Taufers. From there, a well-marked and technically easy hiking trail leads up to the Kasseler Hütte. The approach is straightforward and ideal for easing into the tour without any rush. Those who walk up comfortably the day before save valuable energy for summit day and can start directly from the hut the next morning.
Walking time: 2 h | ↑ 700 m
⌂ Kasseler Hütte (2,276 m)
Day 2: Hochgall via the Northwest Ridge
Early in the morning we meet directly at the hut and set off together after breakfast. First we follow the path towards Graues Nöckl, initially rather relaxed, later increasingly alpine. Following the traces, we reach the start of the route. The climbing along the Northwest Ridge to Hochgall is varied and exciting, with fine block climbing and repeatedly airy passages. Time almost flies by until we finally reach the summit. After a long rest, we descend along the ascent route back to the Kasseler Hütte and continue down into the valley to Säge.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,200 m | ↓ 1,900 m | Difficulty: AD- / ZS- (II-III)
Info: Alternatively, the tour is also possible as a one-day outing at the same price. However, this only makes sense for very fit and experienced mountaineers and should not be underestimated.
The story of the first ascent
The first attempt at the first ascent was made in 1854 by Lieutenant Surveyor Hermann von Acken and several surveyors from Defregger via the northwest ridge. However, they only reached a rocky outcrop on the summit ridge east of the summit notch, just below the summit. The highest point was actually reached on August 3, 1868, by Karl Hofmann and Valentin Kaltdorff, with their mountain guides Georg Wels and Hansl Oberarzbacher, via the west flank and northwest ridge. Their route remains the standard route to the summit of Hochgall today.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is Hochgall via the Northwest Ridge suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed and fit mountaineers who already have climbing experience on easy rock. The Northwest Ridge is not a beginner’s tour, but for experienced alpinists it is a very fine guided alpine tour.
Do we meet in the valley or at the hut?
For the regular 2-day option, the approach to the Kasseler Hütte is done independently the day before. On the morning of summit day, we meet directly at the hut and start from there together towards Hochgall.
What equipment do I need to bring?
The detailed packing list is sent with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and weatherproof clothing. Technical equipment can be hired from the Südtiroler Bergführer for a small wear-and-tear fee.
