1870
3,146 m
Edward R. Whitwell, Christian Lauener and Santo Siorpaes
HOHE GAISL
Innerkofler (IV)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
650,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
This mighty mountain is arguably the most challenging of all the Dolomites' major three-thousanders due to its isolation, fragility, and its demands on orientation and experience in alpine terrain. In return, it rewards its climbers with the comforting feeling of having conquered an extraordinary summit and of belonging to a select group of those few who have seen the panorama of the highest point in the Braies Dolomites with their own eyes.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Hohe Gaisl - Normal Route (Innerkofler): We meet at the Plätzwiese car park and stroll leisurely past the Plätzwiese alpine hut and the Hohe Gaisl Hotel, then follow trail no. 3, gently descending toward the Stollalm. We leave this hut to the right for a while, then turn left. A path leads us through mountain pines into a small valley. Here we climb higher and find numerous old war relics along the way. Bomb fragments and remnants of ammunition bear witness to the sad past, where many soldiers lost their lives on the Dolomites front during the First World War. Passing between two rock faces, we reach the east face of the Hohe Gaisl, crossing a rock glacier sweating beneath masses of scree. This is where our climbing route begins, climbing 600 meters up to the summit. A short section of grade IV represents the main difficulty. The rest of the route is a top-class Dolomites adventure, with difficulty levels II and III.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Braies Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
approx. 10 hours
Meeting point:
Parking Plätzwiese in Braies
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascent and descent
- 1,600 meters of elevation gain
PRICING
PROGRAM
We'll meet at a prearranged time at the Plätzwiese parking lot in Prags.
After a quick equipment check, we'll then set off on foot to the starting point.
The approach takes approximately 2 hours.
At the base of the wall, we'll rope up and begin the ascent via the Innerkofler route to the summit. This will take approximately 4 hours.
After a summit break on the beautiful and surprisingly large summit plateau, we'll begin the descent. There are several abseils and a lot of terrain to be mastered on a short rope descent. Approximately 3 hours.
Back on the rock glacier, we'll return to Plätzwiese, where we can reflect on a successful and adventurous day.
The total duration of the tour is approximately 10 hours.
The story of the first ascent
As early as 1865, Paul Grohmann, along with Angelo Pizzo and Fulgentio Dimai, narrowly missed the summit via the northwest route. Although technically the easiest route, it runs through a steep and brittle basin of clay and reddish rock and is no longer used today. On June 20, 1870, Whitewell, along with mountain guides Siorpaes and Laneuer, succeeded in reaching the main summit. Today, the route by Michl Innerkofler, which he opened in 1882 along with J. von Schlögel Ehrenkreuz through the east face, is considered the standard route.
