1870
3,146 m
Edward R. Whitwell, Christian Lauener and Santo Siorpaes
HOHE GAISL
Innerkofler (IV)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€650
for 1 person
Duration:
1 day
Hohe Gaisl – Normal route
A mighty mountain above the Prags Dolomites
Difficulty IV (UIAA) · 10 h · Prags Dolomites
With its remoteness, its loose rock and the demands it places on sure-footedness and experience in alpine terrain, this mighty massif is probably the most challenging of all the great three-thousanders in the Dolomites.
In return, it rewards those who climb it with the deeply satisfying feeling of having mastered an exceptional summit – and of belonging to the select circle of the few who have seen the panorama from the highest point of the Prags Dolomites with their own eyes. The Hohe Gaisl is not a tour to tick off on the side, but a serious, impressive objective for anyone looking for exactly this kind of mountain.
THE TOUR
The Hohe Gaisl – normal route (Innerkofler): We meet at the Plätzwiese car park and start with a leisurely walk past the Plätzwiese mountain hut and the Hotel Hohe Gaisl. We then follow the path, descending slightly, towards the Stollalm. We leave the hut on our right for now and soon turn off the path to the left.
A trail leads us through dwarf pines into a small valley. Here we climb higher and come across plenty of old war relics along the way. Shell fragments and remnants of ammunition bear witness to a sad past, when many soldiers lost their lives on the Dolomite front during the First World War.
Passing between two rock walls, we cross a rock glacier to the foot of the east face of the Hohe Gaisl. This is where our climbing route begins, leading up 600 metres of face to the summit. A short grade IV section is the main difficulty. The rest is a true Dolomite adventure in grades II and III – rugged, loose and with exactly the character that, on mountains like this, you either love or are better off avoiding.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Prags Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Plätzwiese car park in Prags
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Climbing at grade III
- Sure-footedness, including on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Very good fitness for a long day of climbing with a strenuous approach and descent
- 1,600 metres of ascent
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€650
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day tour: Innerkofler route
We meet at an agreed time at the Plätzwiese car park in Prags. After a quick equipment check, we set off on foot to the start of the route. The approach takes about 2 hours.
At the foot of the face we rope up and begin the ascent via the Innerkofler route to the summit of the Hohe Gaisl. This will take us about 4 hours. After a summit break on the beautiful and surprisingly large summit plateau, we start the descent. On the way down there are several abseils and plenty of terrain to tackle on a short rope. We allow about 3 hours for this.
Back on the rock glacier, we return to the Plätzwiese, where we can look back on a successful and adventurous day. The whole tour takes about 10 hours.
Total time: 10 h | Difficulty: IV (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
As early as 1865, Paul Grohmann, together with Angelo Pizzo and Fulgentio Dimai, narrowly missed the summit via the north-west route. Although technically the easiest line, it runs through a steep, crumbly basin of clay rock and reddish stone and is no longer climbed today. On 20 June 1870, Whitwell and the mountain guides Siorpaes and Lauener succeeded in reaching the main summit. Today, the route through the east face opened by Michl Innerkofler in 1882 together with J. von Schlögel Ehrenkreuz is considered the normal route.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Hohe Gaisl suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed mountaineers with plenty of stamina and good climbing experience in alpine terrain. The Hohe Gaisl calls for confident movement on loose rock and a love of long, serious tours.
How long does the tour via the Innerkofler route take?
We allow around 10 hours for the whole tour: roughly 2 hours for the approach, about 4 hours for the ascent and around 3 hours for the descent. Naturally, this can vary somewhat depending on conditions and pace.
What should I bring for the tour?
Above all, you need sturdy mountain boots and suitable clothing for a long day in alpine terrain. The detailed packing list comes with your confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrol mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# HOHE GAISL # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE # INNERKOFLER