1870
3,146 m
Edward R. Whitwell, Christian Lauener and Santo Siorpaes
HOHE GAISL
Innerkofler (IV)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
650,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A quiet, rugged mountain above the Pragser Dolomiten that does not flatter everyone – and that is exactly why it stays in the mind for a long time.
Difficulty IV (UIAA) · 10 h · Pragser Dolomiten
This mighty massif, because of its solitude, loose rock, and the demands it places on sure-footedness and experience in alpine terrain, is probably the most demanding of all the great three-thousand-metre peaks of the Dolomites.
In return, it rewards those who climb it with the deeply satisfying feeling of having mastered an exceptional summit, and of belonging to the select circle of the very few who have seen the panorama from the highest point of the Pragser Dolomiten with their own eyes. The Hohe Gaisl is not a casual outing, but a serious, impressive objective for all those who seek precisely this kind of mountain.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Hohe Gaisl – normal route (Innerkofler): We meet at the Plätzwiese car park and at first walk at an easy pace past the Plätzwiese alpine hut and the Hotel Hohe Gaisl. We then follow the path, descending slightly, towards Stollalm. We leave this on our right for the time being and soon leave the path to the left.
A trail leads us through dwarf pines into a small valley. Here we climb higher and find plenty of old war relics along the way. Bomb fragments and ammunition remains bear witness to the sad past, when many soldiers on the Dolomite front lost their lives during the First World War.
Passing between two rock walls, we cross a block glacier to reach the foot of the east face of the Hohe Gaisl. Here our climbing route begins, with 600 metres of face to the summit. One short section of grade IV is the main difficulty. The rest is a true Dolomite adventure in grades II and III – rugged, loose, and with exactly the character that on mountains like this you either love or are better off avoiding.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Braies Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
approx. 10 hours
Meeting point:
Parking Plätzwiese in Braies
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascent and descent
- 1,600 meters of elevation gain
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
650,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day tour: Innerkofler route
Meeting at an agreed time at the Plätzwiese car park in Prags. A short equipment check, then we set off on foot for the start of the route. The approach takes about 2 hours.
At the base of the wall we rope up and begin the ascent via the Innerkofler route to the summit of the Hohe Gaisl. We will need around 4 hours for this. After a summit break on the գեղեցuful and surprisingly spacious summit plateau, we begin the descent. There are several abseil points and plenty of ground to manage on a short rope during the descent. We allow about 3 hours for this.
Back on the block glacier, we return to Plätzwiese, where we can look back on a successful and adventurous day. The total duration of the tour is about 10 hours.
Total time: 10 h | Difficulty: IV (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
As early as 1865, Paul Grohmann, along with Angelo Pizzo and Fulgentio Dimai, narrowly missed the summit via the northwest route. Although technically the easiest route, it runs through a steep and brittle basin of clay and reddish rock and is no longer used today. On June 20, 1870, Whitewell, along with mountain guides Siorpaes and Laneuer, succeeded in reaching the main summit. Today, the route by Michl Innerkofler, which he opened in 1882 along with J. von Schlögel Ehrenkreuz through the east face, is considered the standard route.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is Hohe Gaisl suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed, fit mountaineers with good climbing experience in alpine terrain. The Hohe Gaisl demands confident movement on loose rock and enjoyment of long, serious tours.
How long does the tour via the Innerkofler route take?
We allow around 10 hours for the whole tour. Of this, about 2 hours are for the approach, around 4 hours for the ascent, and roughly 3 hours for the descent. Naturally, this may vary somewhat depending on conditions and pace.
What should I bring for the tour?
Above all, sturdy mountaineering boots and suitable clothing for a long day in alpine terrain are important. The detailed packing list will come with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be hired from the Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear-and-tear fee.
