1881
2,857 m
Michl Innerkofler, Hans Innerkofler
KLEINE ZINNE
Normal route (IV)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
330,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The smallest of the Three Peaks is also the wildest – a steep, forbidding rock needle in the Sexten Dolomites that offers a huge amount of climbing enjoyment at surprisingly moderate grades.
· Grade IV+ (UIAA) · 8 h · Sexten Dolomites
The Kleine Zinne is also the most difficult of the Three Peaks. Only 12 years after the Große Zinne was first climbed did Michl and Hans Innerkofler find a way through this forbidding yellow wall. Particularly impressive was their climbing time of 1.5 hours, which they needed from the base of the route to the summit.
This bold rock needle is climbed less frequently in the shadow of its famous neighbour. On the one hand because of the greater difficulties, and on the other because of the lack of prestige. But that is exactly what makes this summit a more than worthwhile objective, and a climbing adventure of the finest kind is guaranteed. Rarely anywhere on this earth will you have the chance to climb such a steep wall at such moderate grades.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Kleine Zinne via the Normal Route is an exposed climbing route in the Sexten Dolomites. The starting point is the car park at Auronzohütte above Misurina. First, we follow the line just below the south face for a short distance, then ascend via a zigzag path through the scree fields to the start of the route.
From here, we climb as a rope team from belay to belay. In total, around 13 pitches lie ahead of us. On enjoyable climbing terrain and with very consistent difficulty on almost every pitch, we work our way steadily upwards. That is precisely what makes the route so beautiful: it is continuously steep, but never unpleasant, and you quickly settle into a really good rhythm.
The crux is right at the top, just below the summit. But we will also master the slippery Zsigmondy Chimney at IV+ and then enjoy the well-earned view from this impressive rock needle. For the finale, an abseil descent awaits that could hardly be better, bringing us safely and efficiently back to the base of the wall.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Auronzo Hut toll fees
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
approx. 8 hours
Meeting point:
Lake Misurina parking lot
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III-IV climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- Freedom from vertigo
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
550,- €
330,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Normal Route Kleine Zinne
Meeting at an agreed time at the car park by Dürrensee. We drive together to Auronzohütte. After a short equipment check, we set off towards the start of the route. Following the approach, we reach the foot of Kleine Zinne, rope up, and climb pitch by pitch towards the summit.
In total, around 13 pitches lie ahead of us, almost all in the grade III to IV range. The crux, the Zsigmondy Chimney, awaits directly below the summit and provides a truly fine finale to this route. After about 3 to 4 hours of climbing, we reach the summit of this striking rock needle.
We return via a very well-equipped abseil line, which brings us safely and efficiently back to the base of the wall. You should allow around 8 hours for the entire tour.
Total time: 8 h | ↑ 550 m ascent | ↓ 550 m descent | Grade: IV+ (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
The Kleine Zinne was long considered impregnable due to its steep walls. Initial attempts by Dima and Ißler in 1878, as well as Siorpaes and Grünwald in 1881, via the north face failed. On July 25, 1881, the guides Michel and Hans Innerkofler were supposed to lead Josef von Schlögel Ehrenburg from Vienna to the Kleine Zinne, but they left him at the entrance and reached the summit via the southwest face. They needed only one and a half hours to complete the ascent. Today, guidebooks estimate a time of two to three hours. Their ascent was considered the most difficult climb to date and was a milestone in the development of climbing.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How difficult is the Normal Route on Kleine Zinne?
The tour requires solid rock climbing experience and confident movement in exposed terrain. The crux is the Zsigmondy Chimney at IV+ (UIAA), together with around 13 pitches and a longer abseil descent on the way down.
How long does the tour on Kleine Zinne take?
You should allow about 8 hours for the entire tour. This includes the approach, the climbing on the Normal Route, time on the summit, and the abseil back to the base of the wall.
What do I need to bring for the tour?
Most important are climbing shoes and suitable clothing for a long day on the rock. You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Missing equipment can be hired from the Südtiroler Bergführer for a small wear-and-tear fee.
