1881
2,857 m
Michl Innerkofler, Hans Innerkofler
KLEINE ZINNE
Normal route (IV)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Kleine Zinne – Normalweg
The smallest of the Drei Zinnen is also the most demanding – a steep, forbidding rock needle in the Sexten Dolomites
Difficulty IV+ (UIAA) · 8 h · Sexten Dolomites
The Kleine Zinne is also the hardest of the Drei Zinnen. It was only 12 years after the Große Zinne that Michl and Hans Innerkofler found a way through this forbidding yellow face. Particularly impressive was their climbing time of just 1.5 hours from the foot of the route to the summit.
This bold rock needle is climbed less often, standing in the shadow of its famous neighbour – partly because of its greater difficulty and partly because it lacks the prestige. But that is exactly what makes this summit a more than worthwhile objective, and a climbing adventure of the finest kind is guaranteed. Rarely anywhere on earth will you get the chance to climb such a steep face at such moderate grades.
THE TOUR
The Kleine Zinne via the normal route is a beautiful, exposed climbing route in the Sexten Dolomites. The starting point is the car park at the Auronzohütte above Misurina. First we walk a short way along beneath the south flank, before zigzagging up a path through the scree fields to the start of the route.
From here, we climb as a rope team from belay to belay. Around 13 pitches lie ahead of us in total. With enjoyable climbing and very consistent difficulty on almost every pitch, we work our way up bit by bit. That is exactly what makes the route so beautiful: it is steep throughout but never unpleasant, and you quickly settle into a really good rhythm.
The crux comes right at the top, just below the summit. But we will master the slippery Zsigmondy Chimney at IV+ too, and then enjoy the well-earned view from this impressive rock needle. The grand finale is an abseil descent that could hardly be better, bringing us safely and quickly back to the foot of the face.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Auronzohütte toll road fees
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Lake Misurina
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Climbing at grade III-IV
- Sure-footedness, even on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
'- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Each tour is priced individually.
Among other things, the price depends on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find further information on our rates in the terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Normal route on the Kleine Zinne
We meet at an agreed time at the car park by Lake Dürrensee. We drive together to the Auronzohütte. After a quick gear check, we set off towards the start of the route. The approach brings us to the foot of the Kleine Zinne, where we rope up and climb pitch by pitch towards the summit.
Around 13 pitches lie ahead of us in total, almost all of them at grade III to IV. The crux, the Zsigmondy Chimney, awaits just below the summit and makes a really fine finale to this route. After about 3 to 4 hours of climbing, we reach the summit of this striking rock needle.
We descend via a superbly equipped abseil line that brings us safely and quickly back to the foot of the face. You should allow around 8 hours for the whole tour.
Total time: 8 h | ↑ 550 m | ↓ 550 m | Difficulty: IV+ (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
The Kleine Zinne was long considered unclimbable because of its steep faces. Early attempts on the north face by Dima and Ißler in 1878 and by Siorpaes and Grünwald in 1881 failed. On 25 July 1881, the guides Michel and Hans Innerkofler were supposed to lead the Viennese Josef von Schlögel Ehrenburg up the Kleine Zinne, but they left him behind at the foot of the route and reached the summit via the south-west side. They needed just one and a half hours for the climb. Today, guidebooks allow two to three hours. Their ascent was considered the hardest climb ever made at the time and was a milestone in the development of climbing.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How difficult is the normal route on the Kleine Zinne?
The tour requires solid rock climbing experience and confident movement in exposed terrain. The crux is the Zsigmondy Chimney at IV+ (UIAA), plus around 13 pitches and a longer abseil on the descent.
How long does the tour on the Kleine Zinne take?
You should allow around 8 hours for the whole tour. This includes the approach, the climbing on the normal route, time on the summit and the abseil back to the foot of the face.
What do I need to bring on the tour?
Above all, you need climbing shoes and suitable clothing for a long day on the rock. You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Any missing equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# KLEINE ZINNE # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE