1869
3,181 m
Paul Grohmann
LANGKOFEL
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
390,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Sassolungo can easily be considered a symbol of Val Gardena. A Dolomite massif from another world. On the one hand, the mighty Sassolungo, with its massive rock formation, stands like a rock in the surf. On the other, it is surrounded by slender pinnacles such as the Quintofingerspitze, the Innerkoflerturm, and the Zahnkofel. This wild and breathtakingly beautiful massif is rounded off by the Grohmannspitze, the Sasso Piatto, and numerous other worthwhile climbing towers, such as the Salamiturm. Those who venture into the heart of this massif are immersed in a fairytale world of rock. Just a few steps away from the mass tourism of the Sella Pass and the luxury huts scattered around the Sassolungo, which have long since ceased to deserve the name "hut." Looking down on all this madness from the summit of this unique mountain, one might wonder if all this is really necessary. After all, nature has already given this spot on earth everything it has to offer.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Langkofel - Normal Route: We meet at the parking lot of the Sellajochhaus below the Sassolungo Pass. Alternatively, an overnight stay at the Toni Demetz Hut can be considered to better enjoy this long and strenuous tour. If we rely on the cable car, fast climbing and good fitness are required. Behind the Toni Demetz Hut, after a short descent, the Fassaner Band begins. From here, we will climb with rope for the next 6-8 hours. Concentrated, we ascend along the ledge, passing a few shorter climbing sections to the large basin containing the glacial remnants of the Sassolungo. To the left of the infamous ice gully, we climb over a rocky ridge to the next notch and reach the amphitheater. Here we encounter the actual route of Paul Grohmann's first ascent, which is no longer climbed due to the danger of rockfall. Continuing along the guide's gully, we reach the green bivouac box. Behind it lies the crux of the route up to the yellow tower. Once we've mastered this, we follow the ridge a bit further and reach the summit after about four hours. The descent follows roughly the same route as the ascent, with abseiling at some points. The descent will take about the same amount of time as the ascent.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Cable car ticket
- Overnight stay at the Toni Demetz Hut (possible)
- Cable car expenses for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Langkofel group
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
approx. 10 hours
Meeting point:
Parking Sellajoch Haus
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents
PRICING
PROGRAM
Meeting point at an agreed time either:
- at the Sellajochhaus parking lot below the Sellajoch Pass
- or at the Toni Demetz Hut
A quick equipment check, then we set off toward the starting point at the Fassaner Band.
On foot from the Sellajoch Pass, approximately 1.5 hours. From the Toni Demetz Hut, a 10-minute walk.
We rope up and climb along the normal route to the Sassolungo through exciting, entertaining, and beautiful terrain. We climbed well-known climbing passages such as the Fassaner Band, the Sassolungo Glacier, the Ice Gully, the Amphitheater, the Führer Gully, the Pyramid Tower, and the Yellow Tower one after the other.
Finally, we continue over a beautiful ridge to the summit.
After a summit break on the beautiful and surprisingly large peak, we begin the descent. There are also numerous abseiling points.
In total, the descent will take us about the same amount of time as the ascent.
Back at the Toni Demetz Hut, we hope we were fast enough to make the final descent down the valley. Otherwise, another 400 meters of descent await us.
Tour duration: approximately 8-10 hours.
*The tour will only be conducted with two people under the following conditions:
- The mountain guide knows both participants and has already hiked with them.
- Both participants also know each other.
- The mountain guide finds that the participants' climbing technique, surefootedness, and fitness are sufficient for rapid progress on the tour.
The story of the first ascent
The Viennese mountaineer Paul Grohmann succeeded in finding a route to the summit of the Sassolungo on August 13, 1869. His route, which leads from the Cunfinböden into the Sassolungo cirque and from there over a gully prone to rockfall into the amphitheater, is no longer climbed in the lower section. The upper section of the route, from the amphitheater up to the summit, still follows roughly the original route. The lower section is climbed over the Fassaner Band, past the glacier and the ice gully.
