1869
3,181 m
Paul Grohmann
LANGKOFEL
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
390,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A wild day on Sassolungo right in the heart of the Val Gardena Dolomites – close to the bustle of Sellajoch and yet in a world of rock entirely its own.
Difficulty III+ (UIAA) · 9.5 h walking time · Val Gardena Dolomites
Sassolungo can readily be regarded as the landmark of Val Gardena. A Dolomite massif from another world. On the one hand, mighty Sassolungo stands there with its massive rock architecture like a rock in the surf. On the other, it is surrounded by slender towers such as the Fünffingerspitze, the Innerkoflerturm and the Zahnkofel.
This wild and beautiful massif is rounded off by Punta Grohmann, Sasso Piatto and numerous other worthwhile climbing towers such as the Salamiturm. Anyone venturing into the heart of this massif suddenly finds themselves in a fairytale world of rock. It lies only a few steps away from the mass tourism of Sellajoch and the luxury huts scattered around Sassolungo, which long ago ceased to deserve the name “hut”.
From the summit of this unique mountain, you look down on all this madness and ask yourself whether any of it is really necessary. Nature has in fact already given this corner of the earth everything it needs.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Sassolungo via the Normal route is a long, demanding and historic tour in the Dolomites. We meet at the car park of Sellajochhaus below Sellajoch. Alternatively, an overnight stay at Toni-Demetz-Hütte can be considered in order to enjoy this long and strenuous tour more fully. If we depend on the lift, swift climbing and good fitness are essential.
Behind Toni-Demetz-Hütte, after a short descent, the Fassaner Band begins. From here, we will be climbing on the rope for the next few hours. With full concentration, we move along the ledge over several shorter climbing sections to the large basin with the glacier remnants of Sassolungo. To the left of the notorious Eisrinne, we climb over a rock rib to the next notch and reach the Amphitheater.
Here we join the actual line of the first ascent by Paul Grohmann, which is no longer climbed today because of the danger of rockfall. Continuing via the Führerrinne, we reach the green bivouac box. Behind it lies the crux of the route up onto the Gelbe Turm. Once we have mastered this too, we follow the ridge a little farther and finally stand on the summit. The descent follows roughly the line of ascent, with abseils at several points. We will need about as much time for the descent as for the ascent.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Cable car ticket
- Overnight stay at the Toni Demetz Hut (possible)
- Cable car expenses for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Langkofel group
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
approx. 10 hours
Meeting point:
Parking Sellajoch Haus
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
(2 people only under certain conditions - see program)
Prices:
1 person:
*2 people:
650,- €
*390,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day tour: Normal route on Sassolungo
Meeting at an agreed time either at the car park of Sellajochhaus below Sellajoch or at Toni-Demetz-Hütte. After a short equipment check, we set off towards the start at Fassaner Band. On foot from Sellajoch it takes about 1.5 hours, from Toni-Demetz-Hütte around 10 minutes.
We then rope up and climb engaging, varied terrain along the Normal route up Sassolungo. Well-known sections such as the Fassaner Band, the glacier remnants on Sassolungo, the Eisrinne, the Amphitheater, the Führerrinne, the Pyramidenturm and the Gelbe Turm are left behind one after another. Finally, we continue along a lovely ridge to the summit.
After a break on the surprisingly spacious summit, we begin the descent. This also involves negotiating numerous abseil points. Altogether, we will need roughly the same amount of time for the descent as for the ascent. Back at Toni-Demetz-Hütte, we hope we have been quick enough to catch the last cable car down. Otherwise, another good 500 metres of descent awaits us.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,200 m ascent | ↓ 700 m descent | Difficulty: III+ (UIAA)
Info: With 2 people, the tour is only run under the following conditions: the mountain guide knows both participants and has already been in the mountains with them, both participants also know each other, and the mountain guide considers the participants’ climbing technique, sure-footedness and fitness sufficient for swift progress on the tour. Without the cable car, the descent is extended by approx. 1.5 h and around 500 vertical metres.
The story of the first ascent
The Viennese mountaineer Paul Grohmann succeeded in finding a route to the summit of the Sassolungo on August 13, 1869. His route, which leads from the Cunfinböden into the Sassolungo cirque and from there over a gully prone to rockfall into the amphitheater, is no longer climbed in the lower section. The upper section of the route, from the amphitheater up to the summit, still follows roughly the original route. The lower section is climbed over the Fassaner Band, past the glacier and the ice gully.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the normal route on Sassolungo suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed, fit mountaineers with good climbing experience. Sassolungo is long, demanding, and still requires concentration on the descent. Those who feel comfortable on exposed rock terrain will really enjoy it here.
What happens if we miss the last lift at Toni-Demetz-Hütte?
Then we continue descending on foot into the valley. This means additional descent below Toni-Demetz-Hütte. That is exactly why good fitness and swift progress are important on this tour.
What should I bring for the tour?
Above all, suitable mountain boots and weatherproof clothing are important. You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from the Südtiroler Bergführer for a small wear-and-tear fee.
