1869
3,181 m
Paul Grohmann
LANGKOFEL
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Langkofel – Normalweg
Out on the Langkofel in the very heart of the Val Gardena Dolomites
Difficulty III+ (UIAA) · 9.5 h walking time · Val Gardena Dolomites
The Langkofel can easily be regarded as the landmark of Val Gardena. A Dolomite massif that seems to come from another world. On the one hand, the mighty Langkofel with its massive bulk of rock stands firm like a rock in the surf. On the other, it is surrounded by slender spires such as the Fünffingerspitze, the Innerkoflerturm and the Zahnkofel.
This wild and beautiful massif is rounded off by the Grohmannspitze, the Plattkofel and numerous other rewarding climbing towers such as the Salamiturm. Anyone who ventures into the heart of this massif suddenly finds themselves in a fairy-tale world of rock. It lies just a few steps away from the mass tourism of the Sellajoch and the luxury huts scattered around the Langkofel, which have long ceased to deserve the name "hut".
From the summit of this unique mountain you look down on all this madness and wonder whether any of it is really needed. After all, nature has already given this corner of the earth everything.
THE TOUR
The Langkofel via the normal route is a long, demanding tour steeped in history in the Dolomites. We meet at the car park of the Sellajochhaus below the Sellajoch. Alternatively, you can consider staying overnight at the Toni-Demetz-Hütte so you can enjoy this long and strenuous tour more. If we depend on the lift, swift climbing and good fitness are a must.
Beyond the Toni-Demetz-Hütte, after a short descent, the Fassaner Band begins. From here we climb roped up for the next few hours. With full concentration we follow the ledge across a few shorter climbing sections to the large basin holding the remnants of the Langkofel glacier. To the left of the notorious Eisrinne (ice gully), we climb a rock rib to the next notch and reach the Amphitheatre.
Here we join the actual line of Paul Grohmann's first ascent, which is no longer climbed today because of the risk of rockfall. Continuing up the Führerrinne, we reach the green bivouac shelter. Behind it lies the crux of the route, leading up onto the Gelber Turm. Once we have mastered this too, we follow the ridge a little further and finally stand on the summit. The descent roughly follows the ascent route, with abseils in several places. The descent will take us about as long as the ascent.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Cable car ticket
- Overnight stay at the Toni Demetz Hütte, if applicable
- Expenses (cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Langkofel group
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Sellajoch Haus car park
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Climbing at grade III
- Sure-footedness, even on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
'- A head for heights
- Very good fitness for a long day of climbing with a strenuous ascent and descent
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
(2 people only under certain conditions - see programme)
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends on factors such as the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find more information about our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day tour: Normal route on the Langkofel
We meet at an agreed time either at the car park of the Sellajochhaus below the Sellajoch or at the Toni-Demetz-Hütte. After a short equipment check, we set off towards the start of the climb on the Fassaner Band. On foot it takes about 1.5 hours from the Sellajoch, or around 10 minutes from the Toni-Demetz-Hütte.
We then rope up and climb exciting, varied terrain along the normal route up the Langkofel. One after another we leave behind well-known sections such as the Fassaner Band, the glacier remnants on the Langkofel, the Eisrinne, the Amphitheatre, the Führerrinne, the Pyramidenturm and the Gelber Turm. Finally, a beautiful ridge leads us to the summit.
After a rest on the surprisingly spacious summit, we begin the descent, which also involves numerous abseils. Overall, the descent will take us roughly as long as the ascent. Back at the Toni-Demetz-Hütte, we hope we have been quick enough to catch the last cable car down to the valley. Otherwise, a good 500 metres of further descent await us.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,200 m | ↓ 700 m | Difficulty: III+ (UIAA)
Info: With 2 people, the tour only goes ahead under the following conditions: the mountain guide knows both participants and has already been out with them, both participants also know each other, and the mountain guide considers their climbing technique, sure-footedness and fitness sufficient for swift progress on the tour. Without the cable car, the descent is extended by approx. 1.5 h and around 500 vertical metres.
The story of the first ascent
On 13 August 1869, the Viennese mountaineer Paul Grohmann succeeded in finding a route to the summit of the Langkofel. The lower part of his line, which leads from the Cunfinböden into the Langkofelkar cirque and from there up a gully exposed to rockfall into the Amphitheatre, is no longer climbed today. The upper part of the route, from the Amphitheatre up to the summit, still roughly follows the original line. In the lower part, the climb follows the Fassaner Band, past the glacier and the Eisrinne (ice gully).
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the normal route on the Langkofel suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed mountaineers with plenty of stamina and solid climbing experience. The Langkofel is long and demanding, and it still calls for concentration on the descent. If you feel at home on exposed rock, you will really enjoy it here.
What happens if we miss the last lift at the Toni-Demetz-Hütte?
Then we continue down to the valley on foot. That means an additional descent below the Toni-Demetz-Hütte. This is exactly why good fitness and a steady pace are important on this tour.
What should I bring on the tour?
Above all, you need suitable mountain boots and weatherproof clothing. You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Technical equipment can be borrowed from your South Tyrolean mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# LANGKOFEL # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE