1786
4,809 m
Michel Gabriel Paccard, Jacques Balmat
MONT BLANC
Trois Monts route (PD+)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€2,500
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
3 days
Mont Blanc – Trois Monts route
Standing on Mont Blanc is more than just reaching a summit – it is the roof of the Alps, which is exactly why it holds such appeal for so many
3 days · Difficulty WS+ (alpine tour)
The highest summit in the Alps. This title alone gives Mont Blanc a very special status among mountaineers and alpinists. The White Mountain has always cast a spell over climbers. Almost every possible line on every side of the mountain, at every conceivable grade, seems to have been climbed.
Chamonix, at its foot, is regarded as Europe's mountaineering mecca. Top alpinists mingle with countless recreational alpinists and hobby mountaineers. Then there are the many cable car tourists who ride comfortably up to almost four thousand metres to see this mighty colossus of rock and ice up close. But it is far more beautiful to actually stand on the roof of the Alps.
The route does present some technical challenges, but overall it is perfectly manageable for well-acclimatised mountaineers with some high-alpine experience. I will take care of the rope work and safety-related challenges so that you can enjoy climbing the highest summit in the Alps as much as possible. We take the Trois-Monts route – a serious alpine tour, but also a truly beautiful line up this great mountain.
THE TOUR
The Trois-Monts route is more demanding than the normal route, but also quieter. As the name suggests, it crosses three summits: Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc itself.
A lot has changed since the first ascent of Mont Blanc. Cable cars and huts have been built, and in the summer months the mountain is climbed by countless mountaineers. We, too, will make use of the cable car and enjoy the comfort of safe accommodation. In return, though, we will be on a route that sees far fewer crowds than the normal route.
Wild icefalls, steep and impressive snow and ice slopes and dizzying views into the depths make this line something special. It is precisely the combination of a big mountain, varied terrain and the traverse of three striking summits that gives the tour its own character. If you don't just want to get up Mont Blanc somehow, but want to experience a truly beautiful alpine tour, this is exactly the right route for you.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- 1 night with half board at the Cosmiques Hut
- 1 night with half board at the Goûter Hut
- Cable car tickets
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Mont Blanc massif
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of July
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Chamonix - valley station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Sure-footedness
- Confident walking with crampons and ice axe
Key to enjoyment
- Fitness for ascents of 1,800 metres at very high altitude
- Good prior acclimatisation is also absolutely essential (we would be happy to do an acclimatisation tour on another four-thousander together beforehand - just get in touch and I will put together a great package for you)
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price from
€2,500
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Arrival and walk to the hut
We meet in the early afternoon in Chamonix at the valley station of the Aiguille du Midi cable car and, after a quick equipment check, buy our tickets up to the top station. So on the very first day, the cable car takes us comfortably high up. From the top station on the Aiguille du Midi, we continue on foot to the Cosmiques Hut, which we reach after a short walk.
Total time: 0.5 h | ↑ 50 m | ↓ 250 m | Difficulty: WS (alpine tour)
⌂ Cosmiques Hut (3,613 m)
Day 2: Summit day on Mont Blanc
The next morning – or rather, in the middle of the night – we set off for the summit after a quick breakfast. By the light of our headtorches, we find our way through the maze of crevasses and up the steep flanks of Mont Blanc du Tacul. This way, we are already high up when the sun rises and bathes this mighty scenery in magical light. The early start, getting up in the night – it's all forgotten in that moment. But we still have a good way to go to the summit. In total, there are 1,800 metres of ascent to tackle at this great altitude. Next comes the steep slope on Mont Maudit, the crux of the tour. The summit no longer seems far, but it drags on until we reach the highest point of Mont Blanc. Once we have soaked up the view, we start the descent. It takes us along the usually well-trodden track of the normal route down to the Goûter Hut.
Total time: 9 h | ↑ 1,800 m | ↓ 950 m | Difficulty: WS+ (alpine tour)
⌂ Goûter Hut (3,835 m)
Day 3: Descent to Chamonix
On the third day, we descend back to Chamonix. Early in the morning, we head down through the Grand Couloir to the Tête Rousse Hut. Here we can pack our harnesses and crampons into our rucksacks and follow the hiking trail on to the Nid d'Aigle. We return to Chamonix by rack railway, cable car and bus.
Total time: 3.5 h | ↓ 1,450 m | Difficulty: WS (alpine tour)
The story of the first ascent
On 7 August 1786, Paccard, a physician from Chamonix, together with Balmat, with whom he had already been out in the mountains, dared to do something no Mont Blanc expedition had dared before: they spent the night at 2,300 metres near the Bossons Glacier, and that was the key to their success. All previous expeditions had considered it far too dangerous to spend the night at such a high altitude and had started lower down. On 8 August, the two battled for many hours through what was then an unknown world of rock and ice, and stood on the summit at 6:23 pm. Completely exhausted and on all fours, they faced a descent that turned into a perilous ordeal. On the morning of 9 August, snow-blind and at the end of their strength, they reached Chamonix. Mont Blanc had been conquered. Today, this first ascent is regarded as the birth of modern mountaineering.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Mont Blanc ascent via the Trois-Monts route suitable for?
The tour is suitable for well-acclimatised mountaineers with some high-alpine experience. You should feel comfortable on steep snow and ice and have good fitness for a long summit day.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. The most important items are suitable crampons and warm clothing for high altitude. Any missing equipment can be rented from the South Tyrol mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
How do the overnight stays work on the tour?
We spend the night at the Cosmiques Hut and, after the summit day, at the Goûter Hut. This splits the tour up sensibly and puts us in the best possible position for the long climb up Mont Blanc.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# MONT BLANC # MOUNTAIN GUIDE # TROIS MONTS ROUTE