1865
3,221 m
Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dimai, Santo Siorpaes
MONTE CRISTALLO
Normal route (II)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Monte Cristallo – Normalweg
A quiet, mighty Dolomite summit above Cortina
Difficulty II+ (UIAA) · 9.5 h · Ampezzo Dolomites
Anyone who has ever driven through the Höhlensteintal or seen this mighty twin summit from Cortina d’Ampezzo will not forget it in a hurry. A huge colossus of rock towering high above the beautiful landscape of this part of the Dolomites.
Many people will associate the name Monte Cristallo with via ferratas and suspension bridges or with an impressive ski tour. Yet none of the well-known tours in this area leads to the highest point of Monte Cristallo. In fact, the summit is climbed only very rarely – which should certainly be seen as a blessing. It gives you the chance to enjoy a very special and exclusive summit experience in unspoilt and adventurous surroundings.
That is exactly what makes this tour so appealing: no fashionable peak, no quick summit tick, but a long ascent and a route with real character. If you want to reach the highest point of the Cristallo massif, you get a serious Dolomite tour here with plenty of scenery, plenty of rock and a summit that will stay on your mind for a long time.
THE TOUR
Monte Cristallo – normal route:
The route we take for this ascent leads through the vast and impressive south-east face of Monte Cristallo and follows almost exactly the line that Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dimai and Santo Siorpaes are likely to have chosen on their first ascent in 1865.
It cleverly threads through the easiest passages of the face, with maximum difficulties of II+ (UIAA). This ascent is only rarely climbed. Tricky route-finding and a fairly long, strenuous approach mean that in the upper part of the tour, where the climbing begins, you are rewarded with a solitary, unspoilt and adventurous Dolomite atmosphere.
That is exactly what makes this line in the Ampezzo Dolomites so appealing: not an overcrowded classic, but a serious, beautiful and highly distinctive tour to the highest point of the Cristallo massif. A brilliant tour that offers a truly special experience. Just the thing for true Dolomite lovers.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Cristallo massif
Best time of year:
July - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Passo Tre Croci
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Sure-footedness
Key to enjoyment
'- Fitness for 1,500 vertical metres
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Each tour is priced individually.
The price depends on factors such as the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find further information on our rates in the terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day tour: ascent via the south-east face
We meet at the car park right at Passo Tre Croci. Before setting off, we do a quick gear check and then get going. Our ascent follows a well-trodden path on the south side towards the Cristalloscharte. At first we walk on a perfectly built trail towards the notch, then it becomes increasingly laborious across the large scree cirque. The climb is enriched by the impressive sight of the mighty faces of Monte Cristallo and Piz Popena, which tower on both sides of the cirque. On the far side of the notch lie the remains of the Cristallo glacier.
From the notch the exciting part of the ascent begins: first we cross a broad ledge. We follow the line of the normal route, which Paul Grohmann is likely to have chosen on his first ascent. Despite the imposing sight of these mighty rock faces, the route cleverly threads through their easiest passages – sometimes up broad gullies, sometimes directly on the ridge, and in between again and again along connecting ledges. The climbing stays within II+ (UIAA).
On the summit we enjoy the superb view, the simple cross and a small summit register that records very few ascents. We savour this special summit experience at this exclusive viewpoint. At some point, however, we have to set off again to safely complete the no less demanding descent, before we take one last look back from the car and think about this special experience – what it was like to stand right up there just a few hours earlier. A summit that will stay in your memory for a long time.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 1,400 m | Difficulty: II+ (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
Not much can be found about the first ascent of Monte Cristallo. What has been handed down, however, is that Paul Grohmann, together with Angelo Dimai and Santo Siorpaes, were the first to reach the summit on 14 September 1865. I have not been able to find out which route they chose to climb the highest peak of the Cristallo group. Most likely, though, it was roughly along today's normal route on the south-east face and over the south ridge, which has a maximum climbing difficulty of UIAA grade II.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Monte Cristallo tour suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed mountaineers with good stamina and solid climbing experience in alpine terrain. Monte Cristallo is not an easy hiking summit but a long and demanding tour with passages up to II+ (UIAA).
How strenuous is the ascent?
The tour is long and challenging. For the whole day you should expect around 9.5 hours and about 1,400 vertical metres of ascent and descent. The approach to the Cristalloscharte and the long descent in particular call for good fitness.
What do I need to bring on the tour?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and weather-appropriate clothing. Technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# MONTE CRISTALLO # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE