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1865
3,221 m
Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dimai, Santo Siorpaes

MONTE CRISTALLO

Normal route (II)

Südtirolalpin Mountain Guide South Tyrol

Südtirolalpin

Certified Mountain Guide

IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations

Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com​​

IFMGA Mountain Guide

Prices from

360,- €

THE MOUNTAIN
 

Anyone who has ever driven through the Höhlenstein Valley or seen this imposing double peak from Cortina d'Ampezzo will not soon forget it. A massive colossus of rock, towering high above the beautiful landscape of this part of the Dolomites. Many people, when they hear the name Monte Cristallo, will associate it with via ferratas with suspension bridges or an impressive ski tour. However, none of the tours known in this area lead to the highest point of Monte Cristallo. Indeed, the summit is very rarely climbed – which should be seen as a blessing, as it offers the opportunity to experience a very special and exclusive summit experience in a pristine and adventurous setting.

ABOUT THE TOUR
 

Monte Cristallo - Normal Route: The route through the massive and impressive southeast face of Monte Cristallo, which we choose for this ascent, follows almost exactly the route that Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dibona, and Santo Siorpaes probably chose for their first ascent in 1865. It skilfully navigates the easiest sections of the wall, reaching a maximum difficulty of II+. This is a rarely visited climb. Difficult pathfinding and a rather long and arduous approach ensure that in the upper section of the tour, where the climbing begins, you are rewarded with a secluded, pristine, and adventurous Dolomite ambiance. A brilliant tour to the highest point of the Cristallo massif that offers a truly special experience. Perfect for true Dolomite lovers.

INFO
 

Services
 

Included in the price:

- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide

- All necessary reservations are made in advance

 

Additional costs:

- Transfer to and from the meeting point

- Individual tips

* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)

Facts
 

Location:

Cristallo massif

 

Best time of year:

July - October

 

 

Duration:

1 day

 

Meeting point:

Passo Tre Croci

What you need
 

Safety-relevant requirements

- Sure-footedness

 

Requirements for enjoyment

- Fitness for 1,500 meters of elevation

- No fear of heights

PRICING

 

Participants:

 

1-2 people



Prices:

1 person:
2 people:

600,- €
360,- €

 

 

 

If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.

 

Dates:

upon request

PROGRAM

We meet at the parking lot directly at Passo Tre Croci. Before setting off, we'll conduct a quick gear check and then set off.

Our ascent takes us along a well-trodden path on the south side toward the Cristallo Forcella. Initially, the climb continues along a perfectly maintained path, becoming increasingly arduous as we ascend the large gravel cirque until, after a total of 1,000 meters of elevation gain, we reach the col. This climb is made even more enjoyable by the impressive view of the towering walls of Monte Cristallo and Piz Popena, rising up on either side of the cirque. The remains of the Cristallo Glacier are located behind the col.

The exciting part of the climb begins from the col: we initially climb over a wide ledge. We follow almost exactly the route that Paul Grohmann would have chosen for his first ascent. Despite the imposing sight of these towering rock faces, the route skillfully leads through its easiest sections, sometimes through wide gullies, sometimes directly along the ridge, and in between, connecting ledges – the route never reaches UIAA grade III.

At the summit, we enjoy a fantastic view from the simple cross and a small summit book that doesn't really have many ascents. We savor this special summit experience at this exclusive vantage point.

At some point, however, we have to set off again to safely complete the equally challenging descent before we take one last look back at the car and think about that special experience and feeling of standing right there just a few hours ago. A summit that will remain in our memories for a long time.

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 The story of the first ascent

Not much can be found about the first ascent of Monte Cristallo. However, it is recorded that Paul Grohmann, along with Angelo Dimai and Santo Siorpaes, were the first to reach the summit on September 14, 1865. I have not been able to determine which route they chose to ascend the highest peak in the Cristallo group. However, it is likely that it was roughly along the current normal route on the southeast face and via the south ridge, which has a maximum climbing difficulty of UIAA grade II.

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Brunner Andreas - Südtirolalpin

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