1865
3,221 m
Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dimai, Santo Siorpaes
MONTE CRISTALLO
Normal route (II)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
360,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A quiet, great Dolomite summit above Cortina that does not tempt with a suspension bridge, but with a true line through wild rock.
Difficulty II+ (UIAA) · 9.5 h · Ampezzo Dolomites
Anyone who has once driven through the Höhlensteintal or seen this immense twin summit from Cortina d’Ampezzo will not forget it quickly. A huge colossus of rock rising high above the beautiful landscape of this part of the Dolomites.
Many will associate the name Monte Cristallo with via ferratas featuring suspension bridges or with an impressive ski tour. However, none of the well-known routes in this area leads to the highest point of Monte Cristallo. In fact, the summit is climbed only very rarely – which can certainly be seen as a blessing. This gives you the chance to enjoy a very special and exclusive summit experience in an unspoilt and adventurous setting.
That is precisely what makes this tour so appealing: no fashionable peak, no quick summit tick, but a long ascent and a route with real character. Anyone wishing to reach the highest point of the Cristallo massif will find no show here, but a serious Dolomite route with vast scenery, plenty of rock, and a summit that will stay in your mind for a long time.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Monte Cristallo – Normalweg:
The route through the vast and impressive Südostwand of Monte Cristallo that we choose for this ascent follows almost exactly the line that Paul Grohmann, Angelo Dimai and Santo Siorpaes likely took on their first ascent in 1865.
It is cleverly guided through the easiest passages of the face, reaching a maximum difficulty of II+ (UIAA). This is an ascent that is only rarely visited. Demanding route-finding and a rather long, strenuous approach ensure that in the upper part of the tour, where the climbing begins, you are rewarded with a solitary, original and adventurous Dolomite atmosphere.
That is precisely what makes this line in the Ampezzo Dolomites so appealing: not an overcrowded classic, but a serious, beautiful and highly distinctive route to the highest point of the Cristallo massif. A superb tour offering a truly special experience. Exactly the right choice for true lovers of the Dolomites.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Cristallo massif
Best time of year:
July - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Passo Tre Croci
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for 1,500 meters of elevation
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
600,- €
360,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day tour: Ascent via the southeast face
We meet at the car park directly at Passo Tre Croci. Before setting off, we will carry out a short gear check and then start our ascent. Our route leads along a well-trodden path on the southern side towards Cristalloscharte. At first, we follow a perfectly laid-out trail up to the notch, then the ground becomes increasingly laborious across the large scree cirque. The ascent is enriched by the impressive sight of the mighty walls of Monte Cristallo and Piz Popena, which rise on both sides of the cirque. On the far side of the notch lie the remains of the Cristallo glacier.
From the notch, the exciting part of the ascent begins: first across a broad ledge. We follow the line of the Normalweg, which Paul Grohmann likely also chose on the first ascent. Despite the imposing appearance of these vast rock walls, the route is cleverly guided through their easiest passages – at times through broad gullies, at times directly on the ridge, and in between again over linking ledges. The climbing remains within II+ (UIAA) throughout.
On the summit, we enjoy the magnificent panorama, the simple cross, and a small summit register that does not record many ascents at all. We savour this special summit experience from this exclusive vantage point. At some stage, however, we must set off again in order to manage the no less demanding descent well, before taking one last look back at the car and thinking of this special experience – of what it was like, just a few hours earlier, to stand high up there. A summit that will remain in your memory for a long time.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,400 m ascent | ↓ 1,400 m descent | Difficulty: II+ (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
Not much can be found about the first ascent of Monte Cristallo. However, it is recorded that Paul Grohmann, along with Angelo Dimai and Santo Siorpaes, were the first to reach the summit on September 14, 1865. I have not been able to determine which route they chose to ascend the highest peak in the Cristallo group. However, it is likely that it was roughly along the current normal route on the southeast face and via the south ridge, which has a maximum climbing difficulty of UIAA grade II.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Monte Cristallo tour suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed and enduring mountaineers with good climbing experience in alpine terrain. Monte Cristallo is not an easy hiking peak, but a long and demanding tour with sections up to II+ (UIAA).
How strenuous is the ascent?
The tour is long and demanding. For the full day, you should expect around 9.5 hours and about 1,400 metres of elevation gain on the ascent and descent. The approach to Cristalloscharte in particular and the long descent require good fitness.
What do I need to bring for the tour?
You will receive the detailed packing list in the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and weather-appropriate clothing. Technical equipment can be hired from the Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear-and-tear fee.
