1862
3,678 m
Leslie Stephen, Melchior Anderegg, Edward Shirley Kennedy, Thomas Cox
MONTE DISGRAZIA
Northwest Ridge (AD, III, 40°)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
600,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A long, airy ascent to the highest point of the Bergell Alps – via the wild Val di Preda Rossa and the beautiful Northwest Ridge of Monte Disgrazia.
2 days · Difficulty AD, III, 40° · 11.5 h · Bergell Alps
Monte Disgrazia is the highest summit in the Bergell Alps. It is a mountain whose impressive shape and height make it visible from far and wide, and it inevitably inspires mountaineers with the desire to climb it at least once.
The normal route through the Val di Preda Rossa to the Northwest Ridge and along it to the summit is a very special alpine tour. It is beautiful, varied, and yet only rarely visited: a rugged valley, glacier terrain, and a long ridge that leads in an airy and varied way via the Bronzepferd to the highest point. Mountaineer’s heart, what more could you want?
ABOUT THE TOUR
Monte Disgrazia – Normal Route: The tour to the summit of Monte Disgrazia starts in Preda Rossa, a side valley of Val di Mello in the province of Sondrio. The name Preda Rossa will come up several times on this ascent.
We first make our way through the Val di Preda Rossa to Rifugio Cesare Ponti, where we will spend the night. The following day, the route leads onto the glacier Ghiacciaio di Preda Rossa and up to Sella Pioda. Here, rewarding ridge climbing begins, with memorable climbing sections such as the Bronzepferd, following the Northwest Ridge all the way to the summit.
This line is what gives the route its appeal: first the quiet valley, then glacier terrain, and finally a long ridge that never becomes dull. At the top, we stand on one of the highest summits in the region and look far across the surrounding mountains. It is a big, varied alpine tour that rightly holds a special place in the tour book of many mountaineers.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at Rifugio Cesare Ponti
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bregaglia Alps
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Preda Rossa car park in Val di Mello
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Good fitness for the long ascent and descent on summit day
Requirements for enjoyment
- Freedom from vertigo
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
1.000,- €
600,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
The meeting point and starting point for the ascent of Monte Disgrazia is the Preda Rossa car park at almost 2,000 metres in Val di Mello. After the village of Cataeggio, we turn right. An alternative meeting point can also be arranged when booking; in that case, we drive together to the starting point. At the car park, we briefly check our gear and set off towards Rifugio Cesare Ponti, which we reach after about 2 hours.
Walking time: 2 h | ↑ 600 m
⌂ Rifugio Cesare Ponti (2,559 m)
Day 2: Summit via the Northwest Ridge
The next day, the ascent leads us up to the moraine ridge of the Preda Rossa Glacier. Through scree and across the glacier, we climb up to Sella Pioda, the start of the Northwest Ridge. From the saddle, we still have a good 2 hours of demanding ridge climbing ahead of us. The crux, the so-called Bronzepferd, is climbed at grade III. The rest of the ridge is easier, but highly enjoyable. On the summit, we take in the panorama before returning with full concentration along the ridge to Sella Pioda and then descending back into the valley.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,100 m | ↓ 1,700 m | Difficulty: AD, III, 40°
Info: An alternative meeting point can be arranged when booking.
The story of the first ascent
Not much is known about the first ascent of Monte Disgrazia. Leslie Stephen, Edward Shirley Kennedy, and Thomas Cox, along with mountain guide Melchior Anderegg, certainly succeeded. The ascent route they chose on August 23, 1962—from Preda Rossa through the Val di Preda Rossa to the glacier of the same name and over the northwest ridge to the summit—is still the easiest ascent of Monte Disgrazia today and has accordingly become established as the standard route.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Monte Disgrazia tour suitable for?
The tour is suitable for experienced mountaineers who have already been on an alpine tour and feel comfortable on rock and straightforward glacier terrain. The Northwest Ridge requires stamina, sure-footedness, and concentration throughout a long day.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
We stay overnight at Rifugio Cesare Ponti. This splits the approach pleasantly over the first day, and on summit day we set off directly from the hut towards Sella Pioda and Monte Disgrazia.
What equipment do I need to bring?
The detailed packing list will be sent with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and clothing for an alpine tour. Technical equipment can be hired from the Südtiroler Bergführer for a small wear-and-tear fee.
