1862
3,678 m
Leslie Stephen, Melchior Anderegg, Edward Shirley Kennedy, Thomas Cox
MONTE DISGRAZIA
Northwest ridge (AD, III, 40°)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
2 days
Monte Disgrazia – Normalweg
A long, airy ascent to the highest point of the Bregaglia Alps – through the wild Val di Preda Rossa and along the beautiful northwest ridge of Monte Disgrazia.
2 days · Difficulty AD, III, 40° · 11.5 h · Bregaglia Alps
Monte Disgrazia is the highest peak in the Bregaglia Alps. Its impressive shape and height make it visible from far and wide, and it inevitably awakens in mountaineers the wish to climb it one day.
The normal route through the Val di Preda Rossa onto the northwest ridge and along it to the summit is an alpine tour of a very special kind. It is beautiful, varied and yet rarely frequented: a rugged valley, glacier terrain and a long ridge that leads, airy and varied, over the Bronze Horse to the highest point. What more could a mountaineer's heart desire?
THE TOUR
Monte Disgrazia – normal route: the tour to the summit of Monte Disgrazia starts in Preda Rossa, a side valley of the Val di Mello in the province of Sondrio. We will come across the name Preda Rossa several more times on this ascent.
We first head through the Val di Preda Rossa to the Rifugio Cesare Ponti, where we spend the night. The next day the route leads onto the Ghiacciaio di Preda Rossa glacier and up to the Sella Pioda. This is where a rewarding ridge climb begins, with memorable climbing passages such as the Bronze Horse, along the northwest ridge to the summit.
This line is what makes the tour so appealing: first the quiet valley, then glacier terrain and finally a long ridge that never gets boring. At the top we stand on one of the highest summits in the region and gaze far across the surrounding mountains. It is a big, varied alpine tour that rightly holds a special place in many mountaineers' logbooks.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- 1 night in a hut with half board at the Rifugio Cesare Ponti
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Bregaglia Alps
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Preda Rossa car park in the Val di Mello
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Sure-footedness
- Good fitness for the long ascent and descent on summit day
Key to enjoyment
'- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Each tour is priced individually.
Among other things, the price depends on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel distance and scope of services.
You can find more information about our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
The meeting point and starting point for the ascent of Monte Disgrazia is the Preda Rossa car park at almost 2,000 metres in the Val di Mello. After the village of Cataeggio we turn right. An alternative meeting point can also be arranged when booking; we then drive together to the starting point. At the car park we briefly check our gear and set off towards the Rifugio Cesare Ponti, which we reach after about 2 hours.
Walking time: 2 h | ↑ 600 m
⌂ Rifugio Cesare Ponti (2,559 m)
Day 2: Summit via the northwest ridge
The next day the ascent takes us up to the moraine crest of the Preda Rossa Glacier. Over scree and across the glacier we climb to the Sella Pioda, the start of the northwest ridge. From the saddle we still have a good 2 hours of demanding ridge climbing ahead of us. The crux, the so-called Bronze Horse, is graded III. The rest of the ridge is easier but very enjoyable. On the summit we take in the panorama before returning with full concentration along the ridge to the Sella Pioda and down to the valley.
Total time: 9.5 h | ↑ 1,100 m | ↓ 1,700 m | Difficulty: AD, III, 40°
Info: An alternative meeting point can be arranged when booking.
The story of the first ascent
Little information can be found about the first ascent of Monte Disgrazia. What is certain is that it was achieved by Leslie Stephen, Edward Shirley Kennedy and Thomas Cox, together with the mountain guide Melchior Anderegg. The route they chose back then, on 23 August 1862 – from Preda Rossa through the Val di Preda Rossa onto the glacier of the same name and via the northwest ridge to the summit – is still the easiest ascent of Monte Disgrazia today and has accordingly become established as the normal route.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Monte Disgrazia tour suitable for?
The tour is suitable for experienced mountaineers who have already done an alpine tour and feel comfortable on rock and easy glacier terrain. The northwest ridge demands stamina, sure-footedness and concentration over a long day.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
We spend the night at the Rifugio Cesare Ponti. This splits the approach nicely on the first day, and on summit day we set off straight from the hut towards the Sella Pioda and Monte Disgrazia.
What equipment do I need to bring?
The exact packing list comes with your confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountain boots and clothing for an alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# MONTE DISGRAZIA # NORMAL ROUTE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE