1804
3,905 m
Josef Pichler, Johann Leitner, Johann Klausner
ORTLER
Normal route (PD+, III, 40°)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
450,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Ortler is a great mountain with character – rugged, demanding, and precisely for that reason so special.
3,905 m · Difficulty PD+, III, 40° · 2 days · South Tyrol
Ortler rises east of Piz Bernina above all the peaks of the Alps and, at 3,905 metres, comes close to the 4,000-metre mark. A major summit that does not make it easy for its climbers to reach the top from any side. Whether you start from Sulden or from Trafoi: it is not possible without climbing sections and glacier crossings.
Ortler challenges the alpinist and therefore offers a powerful feeling of happiness as soon as you stand on the summit and can enjoy the panorama. It is precisely this mix of rock, ice, and altitude that makes the tour so appealing. It is not an easy alpine tour to simply tick off, but a true classic in South Tyrol that demands respect and stays in your mind for a long time.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The Ortler-Normalweg is the easiest ascent of Ortler – easy only in comparison with the other routes, not easy in the literal sense. That is exactly what makes this tour so exciting. Anyone climbing South Tyrol’s highest summit via the normal route gets an impressive overall package of enjoyable ridge climbing up to grade III, imposing glaciers, steeper passages, and deep views that you will not forget in a hurry.
The base for the tour is the uniquely situated Payer Hut, perched on a rocky ridge at over 3,000 metres. For many, it is almost as much a part of the tour as the summit itself. The approach, the night at the hut, and the early start the next morning define the character of this alpine tour. That is exactly why Ortler does not feel like just any summit, but like a real objective.
An alpine tour that could hardly be more varied: rock, ice, exposed sections, and in the end the highest point in the region. Anyone who brings the necessary fitness and mountain experience will experience one of the great classics on Ortler.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Half-board accommodation at the Payerhütte (approx. €60)
- Cable car ticket (if applicable)
- Mountain guide expenses (hut)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Ortler Group
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Sulden - Parking lot at the Langenstein chairlift base station
or
at the Payerhütte
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Safe walking with crampons
- Surefootedness on the rocky ridge
- Very good physical condition for a strenuous summit day with ascent and a long descent
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
750,- €
450,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Ascent to Payer Hut
We meet in Sulden at the valley station of the Langenstein chairlift or directly at Payer Hut if you make the ascent independently. The approach is perfectly signposted and follows trail no. 4 past Tabaretta Hut and on to Payer Hut. This gives you time to settle into the tour at a relaxed pace and still arrive at the hut with plenty of time to spare. In the evening, we briefly discuss the tour and then enjoy a cosy dinner at the hut.
Walking time: 3 h | ↑ 700 m
⌂ Payer Hut (3,029 m)
Day 2: Summit day on Ortler
The next morning, we have an early breakfast at the hut and then set off on the ascent of Ortler. Over enjoyable climbing sections and impressive passages, we climb along the ridge to the start of the glacier. Constantly secured on the rope, you can fully enjoy the tour. Wearing crampons, we continue over the glacier in several steep steps past the Lombardi Bivouac and onto the upper Ortlerferner. Along the way, we also pass some imposing crevasses. As the morning progresses, we reach the summit and with it the highest point in South Tyrol.
After a good rest and time for souvenir photos, we begin the descent. We return along our ascent route to Payer Hut, where it is possible to stay another night or, after a short refreshment stop, continue directly down to Sulden. The descent from the summit all the way to the valley is long at around 2,000 vertical metres and demands concentration and fitness right to the very end.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 900 m | ↓ 2,050 m | Difficulty: PD+, III, 40°
Info: Without the lift, the approach is extended by approx. 0.5 h and 500 vertical metres.
The story of the first ascent
In 1804, Archduke Johann of Austria traveled through Tyrol. When he saw the Ortler from the Reschen Pass, he commissioned the official Johannes Gebhard to organize the first ascent of the Ortler. Gebhard traveled to Sulden and promised the farmers money for finding a route to the summit. Several men tried their luck, but a total of six attempts along the current standard route failed. On September 26, Josef Pichler, a chamois hunter from Schluderns, presented himself. From Trafoi, he led the two mountaineers Klausner and Leitner over the "Hintere Wandlen" (Hinter Wandlen) over difficult and brittle terrain to the summit. Their route, however, never became one of the great classic mountaineering routes and is no longer climbed at all today. The peak itself, however, remains as popular and infamous as ever.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Ortler tour via the normal route suitable for?
The tour is suitable for fit mountaineers with good sure-footedness and experience in alpine terrain. Despite being the normal route, Ortler is not an easy tour – climbing sections, glaciers, and a long descent are all part of it.
Where do we stay the night before summit day?
Overnight accommodation is at Payer Hut, the classic base on the Ortler-Normalweg. If you wish, you can also stay an additional night there after the tour before heading back down to Sulden.
What do I need to bring for the tour?
The detailed packing list will be sent with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and functional clothing for a high-alpine tour. Technical equipment can be rented from your South Tyrolean mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
