1804
3,905 m
Josef Pichler, Johann Leitner, Johann Klausner
ORTLER
Normal route (PD, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
420,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Ortler, east of Piz Bernina, towers above all the peaks of the Alps and, at 3,905 meters, borders on the 4,000-meter mark. A majestic peak, reaching the highest point is challenging from any angle. Whether starting from Sulden or Trafoi, it's impossible without some climbing and glacier crossings. The Ortler challenges every mountaineer, yet also offers an unforgettable feeling of elation once you reach the summit and enjoy the breathtaking panorama.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Ortler - Normal Route: Climb South Tyrol's highest peak via the normal route. This route is the easiest ascent of the Ortler, yet offers an impressive overall package with enjoyable ridge climbing up to grade III, as well as imposing glaciers, challenging steep climbs, and breathtaking views. The Payer Hut, uniquely situated on a rocky ridge at over 3,000 meters, serves as a base camp, perfectly rounding off the overall Ortler experience with its charm and coziness. A high-altitude tour that could hardly be more varied and impressive, and a wonderful experience for any mountaineer.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Half-board accommodation at the Payerhütte (approx. €60)
- Cable car ticket (if applicable)
- Mountain guide expenses (hut)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Ortler Group
Best time of year:
Mid-June - end of September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Sulden - Parking lot at the Langenstein chairlift base station
or
at the Payerhütte
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Safe walking with crampons
- Surefootedness on the rocky ridge
- Very good physical condition for a strenuous summit day with ascent and a long descent
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Arrival and Ascent to Payer Hut
We meet in Sulden at the valley station of the Langenstein chairlift or directly at the Payer Hut if you choose to ascend to the hut independently.
The approach is perfectly signposted (trail no. 4) past the Tabaretta Hut and on to the Payer Hut. The hike takes approximately 3-4 hours. In the evening, we will briefly discuss the tour and then enjoy a leisurely dinner.
Day 2: Ortler Summit
The next morning, we'll have an early breakfast at the hut, and then we can begin the ascent. Over beautiful climbing spots and impressive passages, we'll reach the beginning of the glacier via the ridge (approx. 1.5 hours). With constant rope security, you can enjoy the tour to the fullest.
The ascent continues across the glacier in several steep sections, past the bivouac and onto the upper Ortler Glacier. We'll also pass some impressive crevasses.
Hopefully, weather permitting, we'll reach the summit, South Tyrol's highest point, during the morning (approximately 4 hours from the Payer Hut). The view and panorama of the surrounding mountains are breathtaking.
After a long rest and time for some great souvenir photos, we begin our descent. We return via our ascent route to the Payer Hut (where it's possible to stay another night) or, after a quick snack, continue directly to Sulden. The descent from the summit all the way to the valley floor is very long, with a drop of 2,000 meters.
The story of the first ascent
In 1804, Archduke Johann of Austria traveled through Tyrol. When he saw the Ortler from the Reschen Pass, he commissioned the official Johannes Gebhard to organize the first ascent of the Ortler. Gebhard traveled to Sulden and promised the farmers money for finding a route to the summit. Several men tried their luck, but a total of six attempts along the current standard route failed. On September 26, Josef Pichler, a chamois hunter from Schluderns, presented himself. From Trafoi, he led the two mountaineers Klausner and Leitner over the "Hintere Wandlen" (Hinter Wandlen) over difficult and brittle terrain to the summit. Their route, however, never became one of the great classic mountaineering routes and is no longer climbed at all today. The peak itself, however, remains as popular and infamous as ever.
