1867
3,308 m
William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge, François and Henri Devouassoud
PIZ BADILE
North Edge (D, V)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.100,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Piz Badile in the Bregaglia is a great granite climbing route, serious and beautiful in equal measure.
3 days · Difficulty D, V (UIAA)
Piz Badile is one of the most striking summits of the Bregaglia Alps. It is a massif of the finest granite. The north face of Piz Badile is one of the six great north faces of the Alps and, in terms of technical difficulty, may be the easiest of the six walls, yet the fact that its geographical position often brings summer thunderstorms that build up very quickly and can be especially violent makes this summit a serious objective.
However, the beautiful shape of Piz Badile combined with the wonderfully climbable granite is an absolute dream for climbers. Without any doubt, Piz Badile is one of the truly great routes in any mountaineer’s tour book. The guided ascent via the North Ridge in particular thrives on this special mix: long climbing, magnificent scenery, a major summit, and the satisfying feeling of being on one of the Alps’ truly famous lines.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The route via the North Ridge up Piz Badile is unquestionably one of the great classic alpine climbs of pure enjoyment. A beautiful summit, the finest granite, varied climbing along the ridge, and a unique overall experience are all excellent reasons to climb this route at least once.
In total, there are 800 vertical metres over 1,200 metres of climbing to be covered along the ridge. The descent then follows the Italian side down to Rifugio Gianetti, because abseiling along the ridge is rather laborious and time-consuming, as the ropes very often snag in the numerous cracks when being pulled down.
This makes it a route that takes 3 days in total. However, this mountain and this route most definitely deserve that time. Piz Badile is not simply a summit objective, but a truly great line in the Bregaglia that you will remember for a long time.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Sasc Furä Hut
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Rifugio Gianetti
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- (Possible taxi fares for the short descent down to Bagni del Masino)
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, taxi)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bergell
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Bondo - Parking in the village
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade IV climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
1.800,- €
1.100,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: To Sasc Furä Hut
After meeting in Bondo and carrying out a short equipment check, we set off together for Sasc Furä Hut. The hut was closed throughout the summer of 2018 after a fatal rockfall on Piz Badile’s neighbouring peak, Piz Cengalo. The entire Bondasca Valley was buried in the course of this enormous collapse. The old hut path also ran here. It was not until 2019 that a new trail was created which, although longer, runs outside the danger zone. This means that Sasc Furä Hut is now once again easily accessible from Bondo.
Walking time: 4.5 h | ↑ 1,300 m | ↓ 200 m
⌂ Sasc Furä Hut (1,904 m)
Day 2: Piz Badile North Ridge
We leave the hut early after breakfast, as a long and highly rewarding day lies ahead. The approach to the North Ridge from the hut takes a good 2 more hours. At first light, we then begin the finest 1,200 metres of climbing imaginable. This route is quite rightly at the very top of many climbers’ wish lists — and after the first few pitches on this dreamlike granite, we know exactly why. We gain 800 vertical metres along the airy ridge until we reach the summit of Piz Badile. Afterwards, the descent leads us down the Italian side to Rifugio Gianetti. In the evening, we celebrate the successful climb there.
Total time: 12 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 800 m | Difficulty: D, V (UIAA)
⌂ Rifugio Gianetti (2,534 m)
Day 3: Return to Bondo
The third day is for returning to Bondo. We have two options for this: the easier variant takes us further down to Bagni del Masino and from there by taxi back to Bondo. The longer variant leads us back into Switzerland over two passes, Passo Porcellizzo and Passo della Trubinasca, and then down to Bondo via the hut path to Sasc Furä Hut already familiar from the ascent.
Walking time: 7 h | ↑ 750 m | ↓ 2,450 m
Info: The times given refer to the longer return to Bondo via the passes. The variant via Bagni del Masino with taxi return is also possible.
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent of Piz Badile dates back to 1867. The British were familiar with the peak, particularly through the writings of Douglas Freshfield from the 1860s. However, unlike many other Alpine peaks, it was not first climbed by a Briton, but by the American William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge, together with the two French mountain guides François Devouassoud and Henri Devouassoud. The historian and theologian, only 17 at the time, reached the summit with the experienced guides via the south flank, i.e., from the Italian side.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How difficult is the North Ridge on Piz Badile?
The route is a demanding granite climbing route graded D, V (UIAA). You should therefore bring solid climbing experience and look forward to a long day in alpine terrain.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
As a rule, we spend the night at Sasc Furä Hut and, after the ascent, at Rifugio Gianetti. This allows the tour to be divided up sensibly and the long summit day to be tackled well.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. Most important are suitable climbing shoes and clothing for a long alpine day. Missing equipment can be hired from the South Tyrolean Mountain Guides for a small wear fee.
