1867
3,308 m
William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge, François and Henri Devouassoud
PIZ BADILE
North Edge (D, V)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1,000,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Piz Badile is one of the most striking peaks in the Bregaglia Alps. A massif of the finest granite. The north face of Piz Badile is one of the six great north faces of the Alps and, while perhaps the easiest of the six in terms of technical difficulty, the fact that, due to its geographical location (to the south lies the Po Valley, which heats up considerably in summer), thunderstorms are common here in the warmer months. These storms can develop very quickly and be particularly violent makes this peak a serious target. The beautiful shape of Piz Badile, combined with the wonderfully climbable granite, is an absolute dream for climbers. Without a doubt, Piz Badile is one of the great tours in every mountaineer's tour book.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Piz Badile - North Ridge: The route over the north ridge to Piz Badile is undoubtedly one of the great classics of the Alps. A breathtakingly beautiful peak, the finest granite, varied and stunningly beautiful climbing along the north ridge, and a unique overall experience are all good reasons to climb this tour. A total of 800 meters of elevation gain and 1,200 meters of climbing must be covered along the ridge. The descent then takes place on the Italian side, as abseiling along the ridge is quite arduous and time-consuming, as the ropes are prone to getting caught in the numerous cracks during descent. This makes it a tour that takes a total of three days. However, this mountain and this route definitely deserve the time.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Sasc Furä Hut
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Rifugio Gianetti
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- (Possible taxi fares for the short descent down to Bagni del Masino)
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, taxi)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bergell
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Bondo - Parking in the village
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade IV climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Sasc Furä Hut
After meeting in Bondo and conducting a quick equipment check, we set off together towards the Sasc Furä Hut. The hut was closed for the entire summer of 2018 following a fatal rockfall on Piz Badile's neighboring peak, Piz Cengalo. The entire Bondasca Valley was buried in the wake of this massive collapse. The old hut path also ran through this area. A new trail was only built in 2019, which is now longer but out of the danger zone. This means that the Sasc Furä Hut can now be reached from Bondo in just over four hours.
Day 2: Piz Badile - North Ridge
We'll leave the hut early after breakfast, as we have a long and very eventful day ahead of us. The approach to the north ridge takes a good two hours from the hut. With the first light of day, we'll then begin the 1,200 meters of climbing at its finest. This tour is rightfully at the top of many climbers' wish lists – and after the first few meters on this stunning granite, we understand why. We will climb 800 meters along the lofty edge until we reach the 3,308-meter summit. Here, we will first enjoy the stunning panorama. Our descent then takes us down the Italian side of Piz Badile towards Val di Mello to the Gianetti Hut. Here, we will toast our successful tour in the evening.
Day 3: Back to Bondo
The third day is dedicated to returning to Bondo. We have two options: The leisurely route takes us further down to Bagni del Masino and from there, take a taxi back to Bondo. The longer route takes us over two passes (Passo Porcellizzo and Passo della Trubinasca) back into Switzerland and then down the Sasc Furä Hut trail, which we already know from the ascent, to Bondo (walking time approx. 6 hours).
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent of Piz Badile dates back to 1867. The British were familiar with the peak, particularly through the writings of Douglas Freshfield from the 1860s. However, unlike many other Alpine peaks, it was not first climbed by a Briton, but by the American William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge, together with the two French mountain guides François Devouassoud and Henri Devouassoud. The historian and theologian, only 17 at the time, reached the summit with the experienced guides via the south flank, i.e., from the Italian side.
