1867
3,308 m
William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge, François and Henri Devouassoud
PIZ BADILE
North Ridge (D, V)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€1,800
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
Duration:
3 days
Piz Badile – North ridge
Piz Badile in the Bregaglia is a beautiful granite climb
3 days · Difficulty D, V (UIAA)
Piz Badile is one of the most striking summits of the Bregaglia Alps, a massif of the finest granite. The north face of Piz Badile is one of the six great north faces of the Alps. In terms of technical difficulty it may be the easiest of the six, but its geographical position means that summer thunderstorms are common here – they can build up very quickly and be particularly violent – which makes this summit an objective to be taken seriously.
Yet the beautiful shape of Piz Badile, combined with its wonderfully climbable granite, is an absolute dream for climbers. Without any doubt, Piz Badile is one of the truly great tours in every mountaineer's tour book. The guided ascent via the North Ridge in particular thrives on this special mix: long climbing, lots of scenery, a big summit and the good feeling of being on one of the best-known lines in the Alps.
THE TOUR
The route via the North Ridge of Piz Badile is undoubtedly one of the great classic enjoyable climbs in the Alps. A beautiful summit, the finest granite, varied climbing along the ridge and a unique overall experience are all good reasons to climb this route at least once.
In total, there are 800 vertical metres over 1,200 metres of climbing to cover along the ridge. The descent then follows the Italian side down to Rifugio Gianetti, because abseiling down the ridge is rather laborious and time-consuming, as the ropes very often get stuck in the numerous cracks when pulled down.
This makes it a tour that takes 3 days in total. But this mountain and this route definitely deserve that time. Piz Badile is not just a summit objective, but a truly great line in the Bregaglia that you will remember for a long time.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- 1 night with half board at the Sasc Furä hut
- 1 night with half board at Rifugio Gianetti
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- (possibly taxi costs for the short descent variant down to Bagni del Masino)
- Mountain guide's expenses (accommodation, taxi)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Bregaglia
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Bondo - car park in the village
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Climbing at grade IV
- Sure-footedness, including on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Very good fitness for a long day of climbing with a strenuous ascent and descent
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price from
€1,800
for 1 person · lower price per person from 2 participants
PROGRAMME
Day 1: To the Sasc Furä hut
After meeting in Bondo and doing a quick equipment check, we set off together for the Sasc Furä hut. The hut was closed from August 2017 into the summer of 2018 after a fatal rockfall on Piz Badile's neighbouring peak, Piz Cengalo. The entire Bondasca Valley was buried by this huge collapse – and this is where the old hut path used to run. Only in 2019 was a new path built, which is longer but runs outside the danger zone. As a result, the Sasc Furä hut can now be reached easily from Bondo again.
Walking time: 4.5 h | ↑ 1,300 m | ↓ 200 m
⌂ Sasc Furä hut (1,904 m)
Day 2: Piz Badile North Ridge
We leave the hut early after breakfast, as a long and eventful day lies ahead. The approach from the hut to the North Ridge takes a good 2 hours. At first light, we start on some 1,200 metres of the very finest climbing. This tour is quite rightly at the top of many climbers' wish lists – and after the first few metres on this dreamlike granite, we know why. We cover 800 vertical metres on the airy ridge until we reach the summit of Piz Badile. Afterwards, the descent takes us down the Italian side to Rifugio Gianetti, where we toast the successful tour in the evening.
Total time: 12 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 800 m | Difficulty: D, V (UIAA)
⌂ Rifugio Gianetti (2,534 m)
Day 3: Return to Bondo
The third day is for returning to Bondo, and we have two options: the easy variant takes us further down to Bagni del Masino and from there back to Bondo by taxi. The longer variant leads back into Switzerland over two passes, the Passo Porcellizzo and the Passo della Trubinasca, and then down to Bondo on the Sasc Furä hut path we already know from the ascent.
Walking time: 7 h | ↑ 750 m | ↓ 2,450 m
Info: The times refer to the longer return to Bondo via the passes. The variant via Bagni del Masino with a taxi back is also possible.
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent of Piz Badile dates back to 1867. The British knew the peak mainly from Douglas Freshfield's writings of the 1860s, yet unlike many other Alpine summits it was first climbed not by a Briton but by the American William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge, together with the two French mountain guides François Devouassoud and Henri Devouassoud. The historian and theologian, only 17 years old at the time, reached the summit with the experienced guides via the south flank, i.e. from the Italian side.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How difficult is the North Ridge of Piz Badile?
The tour is a demanding granite climb graded D, V (UIAA). So you should have solid climbing experience and look forward to a long day in alpine terrain.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
As a rule, we spend the night at the Sasc Furä hut and, after the ascent, at Rifugio Gianetti. This splits the tour up sensibly and lets us tackle the long summit day well.
What equipment do I need to bring?
You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Most important are suitable climbing shoes and clothing for a long alpine day. Any missing equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
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MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# PIZ BADILE # NORTH RIDGE # MOUNTAIN GUIDE