1850
4,049 m
Johann Wilhelm Coaz, Jon Ragut, Lorenz Ragut
PIZ BERNINA
Spallagrat (AD-, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.250,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
At 4,049 meters, Piz Bernina is the only four-thousand-meter peak in the Eastern Alps. In terms of beauty and elegance, it easily rivals its counterparts in the Western Alps. The entire Bernina massif towers far above the surrounding mountain ranges, making it easily identifiable even from a great distance. Another striking feature is what many consider the most beautiful snow ridge in the Alps. The name of this unique gem on the north side of Piz Bernina could hardly be more apt: Biancograt. Another popular and somewhat easier ascent leads via the Spallagrat to the highest point. All of these are dream tours on a truly impressive mountain.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Piz Bernina - Spallagrat: The route chosen by the first climbers in 1850, through the massive glacial break of the Morteratsch Glacier, is no longer possible today and was already associated with great dangers. For this reason, we will expand the ascent of Piz Bernina with additional highlights: First, we take the Diavolezza cable car up to the Diavolezza Hut of the same name. This building really has little in common with a hut anymore. Known for its excellent cuisine, we enjoy a good meal in the Banquet Hall of the Alps before things get much easier and more rustic at the next accommodation on this tour. On the second day, we cross Piz Palü and reach the Marco e Rosa Hut via the Bellavista Ridge, a somewhat simpler but no less beautiful accommodation, as mentioned. Finally, on the third day, we ascend Piz Bernina via the Spallagrat. The return journey takes us over the Fortezza Ridge to Diavolezza and down to the valley by cable car. A dream tour in a breathtaking setting with unique summit destinations.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Diavolezza Hut
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Marco e Rosa Hut
- Cable car ticket for the Diavolezza cable car ascent and descent
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, cable car)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernina Group
Best time of year:
Mid-June - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Valley station Diavolezza cable car
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Good fitness and stamina for long days of touring in challenging terrain
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Diavolezza Hut
We'll meet in the afternoon at the valley station of the Diavolezza cable car. After a quick equipment check, we'll take the cable car up to the Diavolezza Hut at almost 3,000 meters. With excellent food and an even better view of our entire tour itinerary for the next two days, we'll have a short tour briefing and look forward to the two dream days ahead.
Day 2: Piz Palü Traverse
We'll set off from the hut early on the second day after breakfast. First, we'll descend onto the Vadret Pers Glacier and head toward Piz Palü. We'll ascend through impressive and massive crevasse zones to the final summit ridge of Piz Palü. We'll traverse its three peaks and climb the Bellavista Ridge to the Fuorcla Bellavista. Below the Bellavista peaks, we'll traverse toward the Marco e Rosa Hut—our destination for the day, where things are much easier and more rustic than the previous evening.
Day 3: Piz Bernina
Another early start. A long day lies ahead of us, which will take us from the south over the Spallagrat to the summit of Piz Bernina. From the highest point in the entire Eastern Alps, we have an incredible view of the surrounding peaks. In good weather, even far into the Western Alps with their striking and mighty mountains. Our descent then leads us back over the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa Hut and back along the trail from the second day until we reach the entrance to the Fortezza Ridge below the Bellavista peaks. We descend over another wonderful ridge and reach the enormous glacial basin of the Vedret Pers, which we now have to cross. The unpleasant finale now involves a climb back to the Diavolezza Hut – thanks to the retreating glacier. Instead, we take a leisurely cable car ride back down to the valley.
Variation: Depending on the weather and temperatures, we will adapt the route and climb to the summit of Piz Bernina on the second day. We'll then simply do the loop in the opposite direction: Day 2: Fortezza Ridge - Spalla Ridge - Marco e Rosa Hut, Day 3: Bellavista Ridge - Palü Crossing - Diavolazza Hut. The Alpine ballroom offers us many possibilities.
The story of the first ascent
In 1850, surveyor Johann Wilhelm Coaz was commissioned by the Swiss Office of Topography to survey the then-unnamed peak of Piz Bernina. Together with two mountain guides and surveyor's assistants, Jon and Lorenz Ragut, they began their ascent from the Bernina Häuser Inn. Equipped with hobnailed shoes, a hemp rope, headscarves for protection from the sun, and long poles for probing crevasses, they overcame the "Labyrinth" of the Morteratsch Glacier with great difficulty on September 13th. They finally reached the summit via the east ridge at 6 p.m. The descent was arduous and, with the help of the full moon, took place via the same route. At 2 a.m. – 20 hours after their departure – they reached the Bernina Inn.
