1850
4,049 m
Johann Wilhelm Coaz, Jon Ragut, Lorenz Ragut
PIZ BERNINA
Spallagrat (AD-, III)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
1.200,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
On Piz Bernina, truly outstanding alpine terrain awaits with the Biancograt and Spallagrat in the Engadin – elegant, striking, and full of character.
4,049 m · Difficulty AD-, III · 3 days · Engadin
Piz Bernina, at 4,049 metres, is the only four-thousander in the Eastern Alps. In terms of beauty and elegance, it can easily hold its own against its counterparts in the Western Alps. The entire Bernina massif rises far above the surrounding mountain groups and is therefore easy to identify even from a great distance.
Another striking feature is what many consider the finest snow arête in the Alps. The name of this unique jewel on the north side of Piz Bernina could hardly be more fitting: Biancograt. Another popular and slightly easier ascent leads via the Spallagrat to the summit. All of them are dream routes on a truly impressive mountain. On this tour, we combine the ascent of Piz Bernina with the traverse of Piz Palü – a superb combination for anyone who wants to take in more than just one summit in the Bernina area.
ABOUT THE TOUR
The route up Piz Bernina via the Spallagrat has history. The line chosen by the first ascensionists in 1850, straight through the vast icefall of the Morteratsch Glacier, is no longer possible today and was already associated with major dangers even back then.
We therefore enhance the ascent of Piz Bernina with additional highlights: first, we take the Diavolezza cable car up to the Diavolezza Hut of the same name. This building has little in common with a hut in the traditional sense. It is known for its excellent cuisine; in the grand hall of the Alps, we are more than happy to enjoy ourselves before the next accommodation on this tour becomes much simpler and more rustic.
On the second day, we traverse Piz Palü and reach the Marco e Rosa Hut via the Spinas Ridge, a – as mentioned – somewhat simpler but no less beautiful place to stay. On the third day, the ascent of Piz Bernina via the Spallagrat follows. We return via the Fortezza Ridge to Diavolezza and take the railway back down into the valley. A dream tour in an impressive setting with unique summit objectives.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Diavolezza Hut
- 1 overnight stay with half board at the Marco e Rosa Hut
- Cable car ticket for the Diavolezza cable car ascent and descent
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Mountain guide expenses (accommodation, cable car)
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Bernina Group
Best time of year:
Mid-June - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Valley station Diavolezza cable car
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Surefootedness
- Good fitness and stamina for long days of touring in challenging terrain
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Good acclimatization
PRICING
Participants:
1-2 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
2.000 ,-€
1.200,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to Diavolezza
We meet in the afternoon at the valley station of the Diavolezza cable car and, after a short equipment check, take a relaxed ride up to the Diavolezza Hut. With excellent food and an even better view of the full route for the next two days, we have a short tour briefing and look forward to the two dream days ahead.
⌂ Diavolezza Hut (2,978 m)
Day 2: Piz Palü traverse
We set off early on the second day after breakfast at the hut. First, we descend onto the Vadret Pers and make our way towards Piz Palü. Through impressive crevasse zones, we climb up to the final summit ridge. We traverse the three summits and descend via the Spinas Ridge to the Fuorcla Bellavista. Below the Bellavista summits, we cross towards the Marco e Rosa Hut – our goal for the day, where things are much simpler and more rustic than the evening before.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 1,100 m ascent | ↓ 450 m descent | Difficulty: WS, II
⌂ Marco e Rosa Hut (3,609 m)
Day 3: Piz Bernina
Once again, it is an early start. A long day lies ahead, taking us up the Spallagrat from the south to the summit of Piz Bernina. From the highest point in the Eastern Alps, we enjoy an incredible view of the surrounding peaks and, in fine weather, far across to the Western Alps. The descent first leads back via the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa Hut and then follows part of the previous day’s track until, below the Bellavista summits, we reach the start of the Fortezza Ridge. We descend via this wonderful ridge and reach the broad glacier basin of the Vadret Pers, which we now cross. As a somewhat unwelcome finale, there is then still the uphill return to the Diavolezza Hut – thanks to glacial retreat. Afterwards, we take the cable car comfortably back down to the valley.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 750 m ascent | ↓ 1,350 m descent | Difficulty: AD-, III
Info: Depending on the weather and temperatures, we adjust the route and may already climb Piz Bernina on the second day. In that case, we simply do the tour in the opposite direction.
The story of the first ascent
In 1850, surveyor Johann Wilhelm Coaz was commissioned by the Swiss Office of Topography to survey the then-unnamed peak of Piz Bernina. Together with two mountain guides and surveyor's assistants, Jon and Lorenz Ragut, they began their ascent from the Bernina Häuser Inn. Equipped with hobnailed shoes, a hemp rope, headscarves for protection from the sun, and long poles for probing crevasses, they overcame the "Labyrinth" of the Morteratsch Glacier with great difficulty on September 13th. They finally reached the summit via the east ridge at 6 p.m. The descent was arduous and, with the help of the full moon, took place via the same route. At 2 a.m. – 20 hours after their departure – they reached the Bernina Inn.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How demanding is the tour over Piz Palü and Piz Bernina?
The tour is a serious alpine tour with long days and technical sections on the Spallagrat. You should be sure-footed, feel comfortable in mixed terrain, and already have experience on glaciers.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
We stay at the Diavolezza Hut and the Marco e Rosa Hut. The contrast is quite charming: first comfortable with a huge panorama, then distinctly more rustic – and that is exactly part of what makes this Bernina circuit so special.
What equipment do I need?
You will receive the exact packing list with the confirmation email. The most important items are suitable mountaineering boots and crampons. Missing equipment can be hired from Südtirolalpin for a small wear fee.
