1850
4,049 m
Johann Wilhelm Coaz, Jon Ragut, Lorenz Ragut
PIZ BERNINA
Spallagrat (AD-, III)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
3 days
Piz Bernina – Normalweg
On Piz Bernina in the Engadine, the Biancograt and Spallagrat offer high-alpine terrain at its finest
4,049 m · Difficulty AD-, III · 3 days · Engadine
At 4,049 metres, Piz Bernina is the only four-thousander in the Eastern Alps. In terms of beauty and elegance, it can easily hold its own against its counterparts in the Western Alps. The entire Bernina massif towers far above the surrounding mountain groups, making it easy to identify even from a great distance.
Another striking feature is what many consider the most beautiful snow ridge in the Alps. The name of this unique showpiece on the north side of Piz Bernina could hardly be more fitting: Biancograt ("white ridge"). Another popular and slightly easier ascent leads via the Spallagrat to the highest point. All of them are dream tours on a truly impressive mountain. On this circuit we combine the ascent of Piz Bernina with the traverse of Piz Palü – a superb combination for anyone who wants to bag more than one summit in the Bernina area.
THE TOUR
The route up Piz Bernina via the Spallagrat has history. The line chosen by the first ascensionists in 1850, straight through the huge icefall of the Morteratsch Glacier, is no longer possible today and was already fraught with great danger back then.
We therefore add extra highlights to the ascent of Piz Bernina: first, the Diavolezza cable car takes us up to the Diavolezzahütte of the same name. This building really has little in common with a hut any more. It is known for its excellent cuisine; in this banqueting hall of the Alps we are happy to treat ourselves before things get much simpler and more rustic at the next accommodation on this tour.
On the second day we traverse Piz Palü and reach the Marco e Rosa Hütte via the Spinasgrat – as mentioned, a somewhat simpler but no less beautiful place to stay. On the third day comes the ascent of Piz Bernina via the Spallagrat. We return via the Fortezzagrat to Diavolezza and ride the cable car down to the valley. A dream tour in impressive surroundings with unique summit goals.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- 1 night in a hut with half board at the Diavolezzahütte
- 1 night in a hut with half board at the Marco e Rosa Hütte
- Diavolezza cable car ticket (up and down)
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Expenses (accommodation, cable car) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Bernina group
Best time of year:
Mid-June - September
Duration:
3 days
Meeting point:
Diavolezza cable car valley station
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Sure-footedness
- Good fitness and stamina for long touring days in demanding terrain
Key to enjoyment
'- A head for heights
- Good acclimatisation
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends on factors including the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel requirements and scope of services.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to Diavolezza
We meet in the afternoon at the valley station of the Diavolezza cable car and, after a quick equipment check, ride up at a leisurely pace to the Diavolezzahütte. Over excellent food and an even better view of the entire route for the next two days, we hold a short tour briefing and look forward to the two dream days ahead.
⌂ Diavolezzahütte (2,978 m)
Day 2: Piz Palü traverse
On the second day we leave the hut early after breakfast. First we step onto the Vadret Pers and head towards Piz Palü. Through impressive crevasse zones we climb up to the final summit ridge. We traverse the three summits and climb via the Spinasgrat to the Fuorcla Bellavista. Below the Bellavista summits we traverse towards the Marco e Rosa Hütte – our goal for the day, where things are much simpler and more rustic (and more authentic) than the evening before.
Total time: 7.5 h | ↑ 1,100 m | ↓ 450 m | Difficulty: WS, II
⌂ Marco e Rosa Hütte (3,609 m)
Day 3: Piz Bernina
Another early start. A long day lies ahead, taking us via the Spallagrat from the south to the summit of Piz Bernina. From the highest point of the Eastern Alps we have a stunning view of the surrounding peaks and, in fine weather, far across to the Western Alps. The descent first leads back down the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa Hütte and then retraces part of the second day's track until, below the Bellavista summits, we reach the start of the Fortezzagrat. We descend this wonderful ridge and reach the vast glacier basin of the Vadret Pers, which we now cross. As a somewhat unwelcome finale, a final climb back up to the Diavolezzahütte awaits – thanks to glacier retreat. Then we ride the cable car comfortably back down to the valley.
Total time: 10 h | ↑ 750 m | ↓ 1,350 m | Difficulty: AD-, III
Info: Depending on the weather and temperatures, we adapt the route and climb to the summit of Piz Bernina as early as the second day.
The story of the first ascent
In 1850, the Swiss Federal Office of Topography commissioned the surveyor Johann Wilhelm Coaz to survey the then still nameless summit of Piz Bernina. Together with the two mountain guides and survey assistants Jon and Lorenz Ragut, he set off on the ascent from the Bernina Häuser inn. Equipped with hobnailed boots, a hemp rope, headscarves to protect them from the sun and long poles for probing crevasses, on 13 September they overcame, with the greatest difficulty, the icefall of the Morteratsch Glacier known as the "Labyrinth". Via the east ridge they finally reached the summit at 6 p.m. The descent was arduous and, helped by the full moon, followed the same route. At 2 a.m. – 20 hours after setting off – they reached the Bernina inn.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How demanding is the circuit over Piz Palü and Piz Bernina?
This is a serious alpine tour with long days and technical sections on the Spallagrat. You should be sure-footed, feel at home in mixed terrain and already have experience on glaciers.
Where do we stay overnight on the tour?
We stay at the Diavolezzahütte and the Marco e Rosa Hütte. The contrast is rather charming: first comfortable with a grand panorama, then much more rustic – and that is exactly what this Bernina circuit is all about.
What equipment do I need?
You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Above all, you need suitable mountaineering boots and crampons. Any missing equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# PIZ BERNINA # SPALLAGRAT # MOUNTAIN GUIDE