1870
3,152 m
Edward R. Whitewell, Christian Lauener, Santo Siorpaes
PIZ POPENA
South Ridge (IV)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
700,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Piz Popena in the Cristallo massif is a true insider tip. One of the most exclusive Dolomite peaks of all. Despite its considerable height and beautiful shape, it is rarely climbed. However, the south ridge (Via Inglese) offers consistently wonderful rock and breathtaking climbing in a truly unique setting. For those who want to experience the Dolomites at their most beautiful, this tour is perfect. A peak that dwarfs even the neighboring Three Peaks.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Piz Popena - South Ridge: The ascent via the south ridge begins from Passo Tre Croci. The climb initially leads up through mountain pines on a pleasant path until reaching the large gravel field between Cristallo and Piz Popena. The trail continues along trail tracks to the entrance at a ramp that leads to the actual ridge. From here, a stunning climb begins on rocky, solid rock over several large towers. The difficulty is mostly in the grade II-III range, with two short IV sections. Absolutely breathtaking climbing with breathtaking views. From the entrance to the summit, there is a total of 600 meters of elevation gain along the ridge. This tour is accordingly long. The very complex descent via the normal route requires full concentration and makes this ascent a full day's hike of 11-12 hours – crampons and an ice axe are often required for the descent, requiring a full range of alpine experience. However, the reward is a truly exclusive dream summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Cristallo Massiv
Best time of year:
Mid-July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Passo Tre Croci
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III-IV climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents (tour duration 11-12 hours!)
PRICING
PROGRAM
We'll meet at Passo Tre Croci, where we'll briefly check our gear and then set off early. We'll follow the good trail until we reach the large gravel fields descending south from the Cristallos Saddle. Soon we'll turn right toward the entry ramp; the south ridge of Piz Popena is already clearly visible.
We'll follow the ramp off-trail to the ridge. From here, the exhilarating and, in terms of routefinding, sometimes quite complex climbing on the south ridge (max. grade IV) begins. We'll climb in the warming sun on beautiful rock and enjoy an exclusive climbing experience, gaining altitude quickly. After 600 meters of climbing only along the ridge (and significantly more climbing), we'll reach the summit.
A stunning panorama of the neighboring Monte Cristallo, the Hohe Gaisl, and the entire prominence of the Sesto Dolomites, including the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, which seem dwarfed from up here, as well as the Tofana, Sorapiss, Antelao, Monte Pelmo, and many, many other peaks, awaits us. Thanks to the great height of Piz Popena, no other peak obstructs our view.
The complex descent via the normal route once again demands our full attention. After a good 11 hours, we reach the Passo Tre Croci again, where we parked our car. In our pocket, we have one of the least climbed peaks in the Dolomites, via an absolutely stunning route. A tour that more than holds its own in the tour book.
The story of the first ascent
On June 16, 1870, the Englishman Edward R. Whitewell, together with the Swiss Christian Lauener and the local mountain guide Santo Siorpaes, achieved the first ascent of this peak. At that time, the summit of Piz Popena was even considered the highest point in the Cristallo massif. However, as early as 1877, Paul Grohmann and the German geographer Gottfried Merzbach determined that this initial measurement could not be correct. In fact, W. Eckerth succeeded in making the first more precise measurement in 1886, where the neighboring peak, Monte Cristallo, was 69 meters higher. The ascent via the south ridge (Via Inglese) was achieved on August 4 by the British S. Phillimore and A. G. S. Raynor with the three guides Antonio Dimai, Michael Innerkofler Jr. and Zaccaria Pompanin. It was not until 1981 that members of the CAI recovered a historic summit book from Piz Popena, with entries by Angelo Dibona, Emilio Comici and Ettore Castiglioni.
