1870
3,152 m
Edward R. Whitwell, Christian Lauener, Santo Siorpaes
PIZ POPENA
South Ridge (IV)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€700
for 1 person
Duration:
1 day
Piz Popena – South ridge
Piz Popena in the Cristallo massif is one of those Dolomite summits that hardly anyone has on their radar
3,152 m · Difficulty IV · 11 h · Cristallo Group
Piz Popena in the Cristallo massif is a real insider tip. One of the most exclusive summits in the entire Dolomites. Despite its considerable height and beautiful shape, it is only very rarely climbed.
And yet the South Ridge (Via Inglese) offers wonderful rock throughout and superb climbing in an absolutely unique setting. If you want to experience the Dolomites at their most beautiful, this tour is just the thing. A summit from which even the neighbouring Three Peaks look small.
THE TOUR
Piz Popena via the South Ridge is one of the quieter big tours in the Dolomites – not a fashionable peak, not a summit to tick off quickly, but a long, serious and truly beautiful climbing tour in the Cristallo Group.
The ascent via the South Ridge starts from Passo Tre Croci. A pleasant path first climbs through dwarf pines until you reach the large scree field between Cristallo and Piz Popena. Faint trails lead on to the start of the climb at a ramp that gains the ridge proper. From here, magnificent climbing on rock-solid stone leads over several large towers. The difficulty is mostly grade II-III, with two short sections of grade IV.
Absolutely thrilling climbing with dramatic views into the depths. From the start of the climb to the summit, you cover a total of 600 vertical metres climbing along the ridge. The tour is correspondingly long. The very complex descent via the normal route demands full concentration once again and makes this ascent a tour that fills the entire day. Crampons and an ice axe are often needed on the descent, which requires alpine experience. In return, you are rewarded with a very exclusive dream summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Cristallo Massif
Best time of year:
Mid-July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Passo Tre Croci
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Climbing at grade III-IV
- Sure-footedness, including on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Very good fitness for a long day of climbing with a strenuous ascent and descent (tour duration 11-12 hours!)
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€700
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day 1: South Ridge to Piz Popena
We meet at Passo Tre Croci, where we quickly check our equipment and then set off early. We follow the good path until we reach the large scree fields that run down southwards from the Cristallo col. Soon we bear right towards the ramp at the start of the climb. The South Ridge of Piz Popena is already clearly visible. We follow the ramp, without a path, up to the ridge.
From here begins the thrilling climbing on the South Ridge, which is at times quite complex in terms of route-finding, with sections up to grade IV. We climb on wonderful rock in the warming sun and enjoy an exclusive climbing experience, gaining height quickly. On the summit, a huge panorama awaits, taking in neighbouring Monte Cristallo, the Hohe Gaisl and all the big names of the Dolomites. The Three Peaks, which look small from up here, as well as the Tofana, Sorapiss, Antelao and Monte Pelmo also stand in the front row.
The complex descent via the normal route demands our full attention once again. After a good 11 hours we arrive back at Passo Tre Croci, where our car is parked. In the bag: one of the least climbed summits in the Dolomites, via an absolutely dreamlike route. A tour that will more than stand out in your logbook.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,350 m | ↓ 1,350 m | Difficulty: IV
The story of the first ascent
On 16 June 1870, the Englishman Edward R. Whitwell, together with the Swiss Christian Lauener and the local mountain guide Santo Siorpaes, made the first ascent of this summit. At the time, the summit of Piz Popena was even considered the highest point of the Cristallo massif. However, as early as 1877 Paul Grohmann and the German geographer Gottfried Merzbach established that this first survey could not be correct. Indeed, in 1886 W. Eckerth carried out the first more accurate survey, which showed the neighbouring summit of Monte Cristallo to be 69 metres higher. The ascent via the South Ridge (Via Inglese) was made on 4 August 1898 by the Britons S. Phillimore and A. G. S. Raynor with the three guides Antonio Dimai, Michael Innerkofler Jr. and Zaccaria Pompanin. It was not until 1981 that members of the CAI recovered a historic summit register from Piz Popena, with entries by Angelo Dibona, Emilio Comici and Ettore Castiglioni.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the South Ridge of Piz Popena suitable for?
The tour is ideal for sure-footed mountaineers with plenty of stamina and good climbing experience in alpine terrain. The South Ridge is long, route-finding is complex in places, and the descent also demands full concentration.
What should I bring for the tour?
Above all, suitable mountain boots and clothing for a long day in high-alpine terrain. You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from your South Tyrolean mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
How long is the tour on Piz Popena?
The tour is a genuine full-day undertaking and takes around 11 hours in total. Besides the climbing on the ridge, the complex descent in particular demands further time and attention.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# PIZ POPENA # SOUTH RIDGE # VIA INGLESE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE