1870
3,152 m
Edward R. Whitewell, Christian Lauener, Santo Siorpaes
PIZ POPENA
South Ridge (IV)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
700,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Piz Popena in the Cristallo massif is one of those Dolomite summits that hardly anyone has on their radar – and that is exactly what makes its South Ridge so special.
3,152 m · Grade IV · 11 h · Cristallo Group
Piz Popena in the Cristallo massif is a real insider tip. One of the most exclusive summits in the Dolomites. Despite its impressive height and beautiful shape, it is only very rarely climbed.
Yet the South Ridge (Via Inglese) offers consistently excellent rock and nice climbing in an absolutely unique setting. Anyone who wants to experience the Dolomites at their very best will find exactly the right tour here. A summit from which even the nearby Tre Cime di Lavaredo suddenly look small.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Piz Popena via the South Ridge is one of the quieter major routes in the Dolomites – no fashionable peak, no summit for a quick tick, but a long, serious, and truly beautiful climbing tour in the Cristallo Group.
The ascent via the South Ridge starts from Passo Tre Croci. First, the route climbs pleasantly through dwarf pine on a good path until the large scree basin between Cristallo and Piz Popena is reached. Faint tracks then lead on to the start at a ramp that gains the actual ridge. From here begins magnificently beautiful climbing on rock-solid stone, crossing several major towers. The difficulty is mostly Grade II–III, with two short sections of Grade IV.
Absolutely inspiring climbing with tremendous exposure and deep views. From the start to the summit, the ridge involves a total of 600 vertical metres of climbing. Accordingly, this is a long tour. The very complex descent via the normal route requires full concentration once again and makes this ascent a complete full-day undertaking. It is not uncommon for crampons and an ice axe to be needed on the descent, which calls for solid alpine experience. In return, you are rewarded with a very exclusive dream summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Cristallo Massiv
Best time of year:
Mid-July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Passo Tre Croci
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III-IV climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents (tour duration 11-12 hours!)
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
700,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: South Ridge on Piz Popena
We meet at Passo Tre Croci, where we briefly check our equipment and then set off early. We follow the good path until we reach the large scree slopes descending southwards from the Cristalloscharte. Soon we bear right towards the access ramp. The South Ridge of Piz Popena is already clearly visible. We follow the ramp pathlessly up to the ridge.
From here begins the exhilarating climbing on the South Ridge, at times quite complex in terms of route-finding, with sections up to Grade IV. We climb in the warming sun on wonderful rock and enjoy an exclusive climbing experience, gaining height quickly. On the summit, a vast panorama awaits over neighbouring Monte Cristallo, Hohe Gaisl, and the full prominence of the Dolomites. Also lined up in the front row are the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, which look small from up here, as well as Tofana, Sorapiss, Antelao, and Monte Pelmo.
The complex descent via the normal route demands our full attention once again. After a good 11 hours, we return to Passo Tre Croci, where our car is parked. In the bag: one of the most rarely climbed summits in the Dolomites via an absolutely dreamlike route. A tour that more than holds its own in any climbing logbook.
Total time: 11 h | ↑ 1,350 m ascent | ↓ 1,350 m descent | Difficulty: IV
The story of the first ascent
On June 16, 1870, the Englishman Edward R. Whitewell, together with the Swiss Christian Lauener and the local mountain guide Santo Siorpaes, achieved the first ascent of this peak. At that time, the summit of Piz Popena was even considered the highest point in the Cristallo massif. However, as early as 1877, Paul Grohmann and the German geographer Gottfried Merzbach determined that this initial measurement could not be correct. In fact, W. Eckerth succeeded in making the first more precise measurement in 1886, where the neighboring peak, Monte Cristallo, was 69 meters higher. The ascent via the south ridge (Via Inglese) was achieved on August 4 by the British S. Phillimore and A. G. S. Raynor with the three guides Antonio Dimai, Michael Innerkofler Jr. and Zaccaria Pompanin. It was not until 1981 that members of the CAI recovered a historic summit book from Piz Popena, with entries by Angelo Dibona, Emilio Comici and Ettore Castiglioni.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the South Ridge on Piz Popena suitable for?
The tour is ideal for sure-footed and fit mountaineers with good climbing experience in alpine terrain. The South Ridge is long, route-finding is complex in places, and the descent also demands full concentration.
What should I bring for the tour?
Most important are suitable mountain boots and clothing for a long day in high alpine terrain. You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from the Südtiroler Bergführer for a small wear-and-tear fee.
How long is the tour on Piz Popena?
This tour is a true full-day undertaking and takes around 11 hours in total. Besides the climbing on the ridge, the complex descent in particular requires additional time and attention.
