1875
2,812 m
H.A. Beacheroff, C.C. Tucker, B. Della Santa, F. Devouassoud
SASS MAOR
Normal route (IV)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
650,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A bold Dolomite summit that stands almost a little hidden away in the Pale di San Martino – and that is exactly what makes it so special.
2,812 m · Grade IV · 2 days · Pale di San Martino, Dolomites
Sass Maor in the Pale di San Martino can definitely be counted among the most spectacular rock formations in the Dolomites. Together with Cima della Madonna, it forms an impressive twin pair of the finest dolomite right in the heart of the Pale di San Martino.
Seen from Val Pradidali, Sass Maor is certainly one of the most elegant and daring mountains in the Alps, and yet it is a summit that is only rarely visited. There are probably several reasons for this. On the one hand, the ascent is technically demanding, difficult to find, and reserved for very experienced alpinists; on the other, despite its perfect shape, Sass Maor is far from being the highest peak in the Pala.
Fortunately, this means that on the 2,812 m summit you will in most cases have the mountain to yourself. It is precisely this blend of striking line, serious character, and remarkable solitude that makes the Normal Route on Sass Maor a tour you will not forget in a hurry.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Sass Maor – Normal Route: As with so many classic Dolomite routes, the name “Normal Route” completely downplays the difficulties required on this tour. The easiest ascent of this perfectly formed and bold rock tower requires climbing at Grade IV.
Sure-footedness, a head for heights, as well as good fitness and concentration are additional basics you need to bring with you. Because of this natural selection, it is something special to count yourself among the few people able to climb this mountain.
For many of these demands, a South Tyrolean mountain guide can provide the necessary support and make this a true highlight tour on a genuine “Dolomite treasure” for anyone who feels up to the physical challenge. Especially in the wild, serious setting of the Pale di San Martino, Sass Maor shows very clearly that a normal route is not automatically an easy one.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Overnight stay and half board at the Rifugio Velo della Madonna
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Pale di San Martino
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Rifugio Velo della Madonna
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III-IV climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
650,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Approach to the hut
Independent ascent to Rifugio Velo della Madonna. The car park and starting point for this tour are at Malga Civertaghe at 1,376 metres. From here, a well-marked hiking trail leads up to Rifugio Velo della Madonna. Shortly before the hut, there are a few short sections with fixed wire cable to hold on to, but technically this is not a problem. From the car park to the hut, it is about 1,000 vertical metres and around 3 hours of ascent. Overnight stay at the hut.
Walking time: 3 h | ↑ 1,000 m
⌂ Rifugio Velo della Madonna (2,358 m)
Day 2: Sass Maor summit day
Early in the morning, your mountain guide will meet you at Rifugio Velo della Madonna, and after breakfast we set off together towards Sass Maor and Cima della Madonna, where the route and the technically demanding part of the tour begin. Varied and enjoyable climbing leads us to the highest point. A magnificent panorama high above the Pala awaits us, and we enjoy this exclusive eagle’s nest, which we will most likely have to ourselves. The descent then follows the ascent route. We abseil the hardest climbing sections. Afterwards, we continue back down into the valley.
Walking Time: 9-10 h | ↑ 450 m | ↓ 1,450 m | Difficulty: IV
Info: Alternative as a one-day tour at the same price: For very fit mountaineers who can move efficiently in pathless and demanding terrain, the tour can also be done in a single day. However, this should not be underestimated: just under 1,500 vertical metres have to be covered, a large part of them in pathless terrain and while climbing, which naturally takes time. As a one-day tour: approx. 10–12 hours.
The story of the first ascent
A team of four English mountaineers, H. A. Beachcroft and Charles Comyns Tucker, along with Giovanni Battista Della Santa and François Devouassoud, were the first to reach the summit of Sass Maor on September 4, 1875. The first ascent took place on the northwest side, reaching the notch between Sass Maor and Cima della Madonna, and then proceeded along the south side of this imposing rock formation to the highest point. Even today, this route used by the first ascents (graded at IV) remains the easiest "normal route" to one of the most impressive and significant peaks in the Pala Group and the entire Dolomites.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
How demanding is the Normal Route on Sass Maor?
The tour on Sass Maor is serious and technically demanding. You should be sure-footed, have a head for heights, and move confidently in pathless terrain. Climbing experience is important for this Dolomite tour, as is good fitness for the long day.
Do you stay overnight in a hut before the tour?
Yes, as a rule you make your own ascent to Rifugio Velo della Madonna the day before. There you meet the mountain guide the following morning. This makes the summit day much more relaxed and allows the tour to be sensibly split over two days.
What equipment do I need?
For the tour, you mainly need suitable mountaineering boots and weatherproof clothing. You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
