1875
2,812 m
H.A. Beachcroft, C.C. Tucker, B. Della Santa, F. Devouassoud
SASS MAOR
Normal route (IV)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€650
for 1 person
Duration:
2 days
Sass Maor – Normal route
A bold Dolomite summit that stands almost a little hidden in the Pala group.
2,812 m · Grade IV · 2 days · Pala group, Dolomites
The Sass Maor in the Pala group can definitely be counted among the most spectacular rock formations in the Dolomites. Together with Cima della Madonna, it forms an impressive twin pair of the finest dolomite rock in the heart of the Pala group.
Seen from the Val Pradidali, the Sass Maor is surely one of the most beautifully shaped and boldest mountains in the Alps, and yet it is a summit that is rarely visited. There are probably several reasons for this. On the one hand, the ascent is technically demanding, hard to find and reserved for very skilled alpinists; on the other, despite its perfect shape, the Sass Maor is far from the highest peak of the Pala.
A stroke of luck, because it means that in most cases you have the 2,812 m summit to yourself. It is precisely this mix of striking line, serious character and remarkable tranquillity that makes the normal route on the Sass Maor a tour you will not forget in a hurry.
THE TOUR
The Sass Maor – normal route: as with so many Dolomite classics, the name "normal route" completely understates the difficulties of this tour. The easiest ascent of this perfectly formed, bold rock tower involves climbing at grade IV.
Sure-footedness, a head for heights and good fitness and concentration are further basics you need to bring. Because of this natural selection, it is something special to count yourself among the few people able to climb this mountain.
With many of these demands, a South Tyrolean mountain guide can provide the support you need and give anyone who feels up to the physical challenge a genuine highlight tour on a true "Dolomite treasure". Especially in the wild, serious setting of the Pala group, the Sass Maor shows very clearly that a normal route is not automatically an easy one.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- All organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Overnight stay and half board at Rifugio Velo della Madonna
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Pale di San Martino
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
2 days
Meeting point:
Rifugio Velo della Madonna
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Climbing at grade III-IV
- Sure-footedness, even on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Very good fitness for a long day of climbing with a strenuous ascent and descent
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€650
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Approach to the hut
Unguided ascent to Rifugio Velo della Madonna. The car park and starting point for this tour are at Malga Civertaghe at 1,376 metres. From here a well-marked hiking trail leads up to Rifugio Velo della Madonna. Shortly before the hut there are short sections with a steel cable to hold on to, but technically they pose no problem. From the car park to the hut it is about 1,000 vertical metres and around 3 hours of ascent. Overnight stay at the hut.
Walking time: 3 h | ↑ 1,000 m
⌂ Rifugio Velo della Madonna (2,358 m)
Day 2: Sass Maor summit day
In the morning your mountain guide meets you at Rifugio Velo della Madonna, and after breakfast we set off together towards the Sass Maor and Cima della Madonna, where the route and the technically demanding part of the tour begin. Varied, entertaining climbing leads to the highest point. A magnificent panorama high above the Pala awaits us, and we enjoy this exclusive eyrie, which we will most likely have to ourselves. We then descend via the ascent route, abseiling the hardest climbing sections. After that we continue back down to the valley.
Walking time: 9-10 h |↑ 450 m | ↓ 1,450 m | Difficulty: IV
Info: Alternative as a day tour at the same price: for very fit mountaineers who can move efficiently in pathless, demanding terrain, the tour can also be done in a single day. But don't underestimate it: there are almost 1,500 vertical metres to cover, much of it in pathless terrain and climbing, which takes time accordingly. As a day tour approx. 10-12 hours.
The story of the first ascent
The English mountaineers H. A. Beachcroft and Charles Comyns Tucker, together with Giovanni Battista Della Santa and François Devouassoud, were the first party of four to reach the summit of the Sass Maor on 4 September 1875. The first ascent climbed the NW side to the notch between the Sass Maor and Cima della Madonna and, in its upper section, followed the south side of this imposing rock formation to the highest point. To this day, the first ascensionists' route (graded IV, no less) remains the easiest "normal route" on one of the most impressive and significant peaks in the Pala group and in the entire Dolomites.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
How demanding is the normal route on the Sass Maor?
The tour on the Sass Maor is serious and technically demanding. You should be sure-footed, have a head for heights and move confidently in pathless terrain. Climbing experience is important for this Dolomite tour, as is good fitness for the long day.
Do you stay overnight in a hut before the tour?
Yes, as a rule you hike up to Rifugio Velo della Madonna on your own the day before. There you meet the mountain guide the next morning. This makes the summit day much more relaxed and splits the tour sensibly over two days.
What equipment do I need?
Above all, you need suitable mountain boots and weatherproof clothing for the tour. You will receive the detailed packing list with the confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# SASS MAOR # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE