1875
2,812 m
H.A. Beacheroff, C.C. Tucker, B. Della Santa, F. Devouassoud
SASS MAOR
Normal route (IV)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
650,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Sass Maor in the Pala Group is definitely one of the most spectacular rock formations in the Dolomites. Together with the Cima della Madonna, it forms an impressive duo of the finest dolomite amidst the beautiful Pala Group. Seen from the Val Pradidali, the Sass Maor is certainly one of the most beautifully formed and boldest mountains in the Alps. And yet it is a peak that is rarely visited. There are probably several reasons for this. Firstly, the climb is technically demanding, difficult to find, and reserved only for very experienced alpinists. Secondly, despite its perfect form, the Sass Maor is by no means the highest peak in the Pala. It is a stroke of luck that you are therefore usually alone on the 2,812-meter summit.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Sass Maor - Normal Route: As with so many Dolomite classics, the name "normal route" completely understates the difficulty of this tour. The easiest ascent up this perfectly formed and bold rock tower requires climbing at grade IV difficulty, with complete initiative in placing anchor points, an excellent sense for correct route selection, and extensive know-how in rope and safety techniques. Surefootedness, a head for heights, and good physical fitness and concentration are additional essentials. Due to this natural selection, it is truly something special to be counted among the few people who can climb this mountain. For many of these challenges, a mountain guide can provide the necessary safety and enable anyone who feels up to the physical challenge to enjoy an absolute highlight – a tour on a true "Dolomite treasure."
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Overnight stay and half board at the Rifugio Velo della Madonna
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Pale di San Martino
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Rifugio Velo della Madonna
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III-IV climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascents and descents
PRICING
PROGRAM
Day 1: Independent ascent to Rifugio Velo della Madonna
The parking lot and starting point for this tour is at Malga Civertaghe at 1,376 meters. From here, a well-marked hiking trail leads to Rifugio Velo della Madonna. Shortly before the hut, there are short sections with a wire rope to hold on to, but technically it's not difficult. From the parking lot to the hut, it's about 1,000 meters in elevation and a 3-hour ascent. Overnight stay in the hut.
Day 2: Meeting with the mountain guide and ascent to Sass Maor
In the morning, your mountain guide will meet you at Rifugio Velo della Madonna. After breakfast, we'll set off together towards Sass Maor and Cima della Madonna, where the route and the technically demanding part of the tour begins. A varied and entertaining climb takes us to the highest point in about 4 hours. A magnificent panorama awaits us high above the Pala, and we enjoy this truly exclusive eagle's nest, which we'll likely have to ourselves. The subsequent descent follows the ascent route and takes approximately the same amount of time as the ascent. We will abseil down the most difficult climbing sections.
Alternative - as a day trip (same price):
The tour can be completed in one day for very fit mountaineers who can move efficiently in pathless and challenging terrain. However, it should not be underestimated: Although there is "only" just under 1,500 meters of elevation gain to be overcome, a large part of the tour is in pathless terrain and involves climbing, which is very time-consuming. As a day trip, it takes approximately 10-12 hours.
The story of the first ascent
A team of four English mountaineers, H. A. Beachcroft and Charles Comyns Tucker, along with Giovanni Battista Della Santa and François Devouassoud, were the first to reach the summit of Sass Maor on September 4, 1875. The first ascent took place on the northwest side, reaching the notch between Sass Maor and Cima della Madonna, and then proceeded along the south side of this imposing rock formation to the highest point. Even today, this route used by the first ascents (graded at IV) remains the easiest "normal route" to one of the most impressive and significant peaks in the Pala Group and the entire Dolomites.
