1864
3,225 m
Paul Grohmann, Francesco Lacedelli, Angelo Dimai, Santo Siorpaes
TOFANA DI ROZES
Traverse (C)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Tofana di Rozes – Ferrata Lipella
A great Dolomites peak above Cortina: striking from every side
Difficulty C/D (via ferrata) · 8 h · Ampezzo Dolomites
The three Tofane summits tower proudly high above Cortina d'Ampezzo. Their distinctive shape and great height make them some of the most impressive peaks in the Dolomites. They can be seen from almost every corner and always stand out, despite their prominent neighbours.
But they are not just beautiful to look at; climbing them is also a very special experience. Unlike its two slightly higher siblings, the Tofana di Mezzo and the Tofana di Dentro, the Tofana di Rozes stands on its own, yet despite its lower height it makes an equally impressive sight. A showpiece mountain with wonderful climbing and ascent options.
It is the route via the Ferrata Giovanni Lipella in particular that makes the mountain so special: a long approach, an impressive tunnel, exposed ledges and, at the end, a summit that truly feels earned. If you don't just want to get up any old peak in the Dolomites but are looking for a big, well-rounded mountain tour, this is exactly the right place.
THE TOUR
Tofana di Rozes – Ferrata Giovanni Lipella: the tour to the highest point of the Tofana di Rozes is not just a summit ascent; it is a complete adventure that includes both climbing the mountain and circling it. This route therefore offers virtually everything you could hope for from the Dolomites.
Impressive views of sheer, steep rock faces scaled by alpine climbers, an ascent along beautiful via ferrata sections amid a mighty rock landscape, and a magnificent summit panorama of the surrounding peaks, towers, pinnacles and rock faces. As if that were not enough, you pass old wartime relics, and part of the ascent even leads through an old wartime tunnel. It is precisely this mix of history, landscape and via ferrata that makes the route on the Tofana di Rozes so special.
We follow the Lipella via ferrata on the west side of the mountain towards the summit and descend the opposite east side towards Rifugio Giussani and back to the starting point. A long and demanding tour, but one that repays every drop of sweat twice and three times over.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Ampezzo Dolomites
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Rifugio Dibona - large free car park
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Sure-footedness
Key to enjoyment
'- Fitness for a total of 1,500 metres of ascent
- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
max. 3 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Each tour is priced individually.
Among other things, the price depends on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find further information on our rates in the terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Via the Lipella
We meet at the large car park by Rifugio Dibona. Here we check that our gear is complete and then start the ascent of the Tofana di Rozes, which is already clearly in view. Our route first leads beneath the south face of the Tofana to the entrance of the impressive wartime tunnel "Galleria del Castelletto", where we gain 120 metres of ascent inside the mountain. Don't forget your headlamp!
Next come long, spectacular ledges, linked again and again by steel cables at the exposed sections. The steep steps in between are cleverly overcome at suitable points. After many of these broad ledges and steep steps, we reach the summit. A tremendous panorama opens up before us. We enjoy the summit with a long rest before setting off on the descent down the opposite side of the mountain.
We return to the trail junction and then descend over partly unmarked rocky, grassy terrain to the former Rifugio Cantore, continuing past Rifugio Giussani back to our starting point at the Rifugio Dibona car park. An impressive, spectacular and varied tour lies behind us – one whose memories will surely bring joy for a long time to come.
Total time: 8 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 1,400 m | Difficulty: C/D (via ferrata)
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent was made on 29 August 1864 by Paul Grohmann with the locals Francesco Lacedelli, Angelo Dimai and Santo Siorpaes. Grohmann and Lacedelli had already made the first ascent of the Tofana di Mezzo the year before. As on that climb, they chose the ascent from the Forcella Fontananegra via the north-east flank, today's normal route. Grohmann's description from the summit at the time: "I am no friend of listing countless mountain peaks to describe a view, and I shall refrain from doing so here too; yet one detail of the panorama remains unforgettable to me: the fearsome crags of the other two Tofana peaks close by, and between them, further back, the Gaisl peeps out, the Croda Rossa of the Ampezzans; only its uppermost part, but that blood-red, a strange contrast to the grey limestone walls of the Tofana!"
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Who is the Ferrata Lipella on the Tofana di Rozes suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed mountaineers with good stamina and solid via ferrata experience. The Ferrata Giovanni Lipella is long, exposed in places and graded C/D, so you should be comfortable spending a full day in alpine terrain.
What must I bring on the tour?
Above all, you need a suitable via ferrata helmet and a headlamp for the tunnel. The detailed packing list comes with the confirmation email. Any missing equipment can be rented from the South Tyrolean mountain guides for a small wear-and-tear fee.
How long is the tour and what is the descent like?
You should allow around 8 hours for the circuit. The ascent follows the Lipella, and the descent runs down the other side of the mountain towards Rifugio Giussani and from there back to the starting point at Rifugio Dibona.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# TOFANA DI ROZES # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE # FERRATA LIPELLA