1864
3,225 m
Paul Grohmann, Franceso Lacedelli, Angelo Dimai, Santo Siorpaes
TOFANA DI ROZES
Exceedance (C)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
270,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The three Tofane peaks tower proudly above Cortina d'Ampezzo. Their distinctive shape and great height make them some of the most impressive peaks in the Dolomites. They can be seen from almost every corner and, despite their prominent neighboring peaks, always stand out. Not only are they beautiful to look at, but climbing them is also a truly special experience. The Tofana di Rozes stands alone, unlike its two slightly higher siblings, the Tofana di Mezzo and the Tofana di Dentro. Despite its lower height, it presents a no less impressive picture. A showcase mountain with wonderful climbing and ascent opportunities.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Tofana di Rozes - Ferrata Lipella: The tour to the highest point of the Tofana di Rozes is not just a climb to the summit, but rather a complete adventure that includes both the ascent and the circumnavigation. This route offers virtually everything you could hope for in the Dolomites: impressive views of vertical and breathtakingly steep rock faces scaled by alpine climbers, an ascent over beautiful via ferrata passages amidst a magnificent rocky landscape, and a breathtaking summit panorama of the surrounding peaks, towers, pinnacles, and rock faces. As if that weren't enough, you pass old war relics, and part of the ascent even leads through an old 300-meter-long war tunnel. The route takes you via the Lipella via ferrata on the west side of the mountain towards the summit and then down the opposite east side towards the Rifugio Giussani and back to the starting point. A long and strenuous tour, but one that rewards every drop of sweat in many ways.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Ampezzo Dolomites
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Rifugio Dibona - large free parking lot
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for a total elevation gain of 1,500 meters
- No fear of heights
PRICING
PROGRAM
We meet at the large parking lot at the Rifugio Dibona. Here, we'll check our gear for completeness and then begin the ascent to the already clearly visible Tofana di Rozes.
Our route initially leads us beneath the south face of the Tofana to the entrance to the impressive "Galerie del Castelletto" war tunnel, where we'll first climb 120 meters inside the mountain. Don't forget your headlamp! Long and impressive ledges follow, repeatedly connected by wire ropes at exposed sections. The steep steps in between will be skillfully negotiated at appropriate points.
After many of these wide ledges and steep steps, we reach the summit. A magnificent panorama opens up before us. We enjoy the summit with a long rest before beginning the descent on the opposite side of the mountain.
We return to the fork in the trail and then descend over partly unmarked scree to the former Rifugio Cantore, then continue past the Rifugio Giussani and back to the starting point at the Rifugio Dibona parking lot.
An impressive, spectacular, and varied tour lies behind us, and its memories will surely bring joy for a long time to come.
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent was made on August 29, 1864, by Paul Grohmann with locals Francesco Lacedelli, Angelo Dimai, and Santo Siorpaes. Grohmann and Lacedelli had already made the first ascent of the Tofana di Mezzo the previous year. Similar to their exploration of the mountain, they chose the ascent from the Forcella Fontananegra via the northeast flank, today's standard route. Grohmann's description of the summit at the time: "I'm not a fan of counting countless mountain peaks to describe a view, and I'll refrain from doing so here, but one detail of the panoramic view remains unforgettable for me: the formidable crags of the other two Tofana peaks in close proximity, and between them, further back, looms the Gaisl, the Croda Rossa of the Ampezzo region; only the uppermost part, but this one is blood red, a strange contrast against the gray limestone walls of the Tofana!"
