1864
3,225 m
Paul Grohmann, Franceso Lacedelli, Angelo Dimai, Santo Siorpaes
TOFANA DI ROZES
Exceedance (C)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
270,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
A major Dolomite peak above Cortina, striking from every side and with a route that is far more than just a summit ascent.
Difficulty C/D (via ferrata) · 8 h · Ampezzo Dolomites
The three Tofane summits tower proudly high above Cortina d'Ampezzo. Their distinctive shape and considerable height make them some of the most impressive peaks in the Dolomites. They can be seen from almost every corner and always stand out despite their prominent neighbouring summits.
But they are not only beautiful to look at; an ascent is also a very special experience. In contrast to its two slightly higher siblings, Tofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Dentro, Tofana di Rozes stands on its own, yet despite its lower elevation it is no less impressive. A classic mountain with wonderful climbing and ascent possibilities.
It is precisely the route via the Ferrata Giovanni Lipella that makes the mountain so special: a long approach, an impressive tunnel, exposed ledges, and in the end a summit that truly feels earned. If in the Dolomites you do not simply want to go up just anywhere, but are looking for a big, well-rounded mountain tour, this is exactly the right place.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Tofana di Rozes – Ferrata Giovanni Lipella: The tour to the highest point of Tofana di Rozes is not merely a summit ascent; rather, it is a complete adventure that also includes a circuit of the mountain. This route therefore offers virtually everything one could hope for in the Dolomites.
Impressive views into vertical and steep rock faces climbed by alpinists, an ascent along fine via ferrata passages in the midst of a vast rocky landscape, and a magnificent summit panorama over the surrounding peaks, towers, pinnacles, and rock walls. As if that were not enough, you also pass old wartime relics, and part of the ascent even leads through an old wartime tunnel. It is precisely this blend of history, landscape, and via ferrata climbing that makes the route on Tofana di Rozes so special.
The route follows the Lipella via ferrata on the western side of the mountain towards the summit, then descends again on the opposite eastern side towards Rifugio Giussani and back to the starting point. A long and strenuous tour that rewards every drop of sweat two- and threefold.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfer to and from the meeting point
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Ampezzo Dolomites
Best time of year:
July - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Rifugio Dibona - large free parking lot
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Sure-footedness
Requirements for enjoyment
- Fitness for a total elevation gain of 1,500 meters
- No fear of heights
PRICING
Participants:
max. 3 people
Prices:
1 person:
2 people:
3 people:
600,- €
360,- €
270,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Via the Lipella
We meet at the large car park by Rifugio Dibona. Here we check that all our gear is complete and then begin the ascent of the already clearly visible Tofana di Rozes. Our route first leads us beneath the south face of the Tofana to the entrance of the impressive wartime tunnel, the “Galerie del Castelletto”, where we cover 120 vertical metres inside the mountain. Do not forget your headlamp!
Then come long and impressive ledges, linked by steel cables again and again at the exposed sections. The steep steps in between are skilfully overcome at suitable points. After many of these broad ledges and steep steps, we reach the summit. A vast panorama opens up before us. We enjoy the summit during an extended break before setting off on the descent on the opposite side of the mountain.
We return to the trail junction and then descend through partly unmarked rocky terrain to the former Rifugio Cantore, and continue past Rifugio Giussani back to our starting point at the car park of Rifugio Dibona. An impressive, spectacular, and varied tour lies behind us, and the memories of it will surely bring joy for a long time to come.
Total time: 8 h | ↑ 1,400 m | ↓ 1,400 m | Difficulty: C/D (via ferrata)
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent was made on August 29, 1864, by Paul Grohmann with locals Francesco Lacedelli, Angelo Dimai, and Santo Siorpaes. Grohmann and Lacedelli had already made the first ascent of the Tofana di Mezzo the previous year. Similar to their exploration of the mountain, they chose the ascent from the Forcella Fontananegra via the northeast flank, today's standard route. Grohmann's description of the summit at the time: "I'm not a fan of counting countless mountain peaks to describe a view, and I'll refrain from doing so here, but one detail of the panoramic view remains unforgettable for me: the formidable crags of the other two Tofana peaks in close proximity, and between them, further back, looms the Gaisl, the Croda Rossa of the Ampezzo region; only the uppermost part, but this one is blood red, a strange contrast against the gray limestone walls of the Tofana!"
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Who is the Ferrata Lipella on Tofana di Rozes suitable for?
The tour is suitable for sure-footed and fit mountaineers with good via ferrata experience. The Ferrata Giovanni Lipella is long, exposed in places, and graded C/D; you should therefore be comfortable spending a full day in alpine terrain.
What should I definitely bring for the tour?
Most important are a suitable climbing helmet and a headlamp for the tunnel. The exact packing list will be sent with the confirmation email. Missing equipment can be rented from the Südtiroler Bergführern for a small wear fee.
How long is the tour and how does the descent go?
For the full circuit, you should allow about 8 hours. The ascent is via the Lipella; the descent is on the other side of the mountain towards Rifugio Giussani, and from there back to the starting point by Rifugio Dibona.
