1879
2,973 m
Michl Innerkofler, Georg Ploner
WESTLICHE ZINNE
Normal route (III+)
Südtirolalpin
State-certified mountain and ski guides IFMGA
South Tyrol Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Tour duration:
1 day
Westliche Zinne – Normalweg
The Westliche Zinne by its normal route is a beautiful, adventurous climb in the Sexten Dolomites, with far fewer people than on its big neighbour.
Difficulty III+ (UIAA) · 8.5 h · Sexten Dolomites
Among alpinists, the Westliche Zinne is known above all for its massively overhanging north face, which has one of the largest roofs in the Alps. The normal route on the Westliche Zinne is also a very rewarding objective. For one thing, it is much less crowded than its neighbouring summit, the Große Zinne, which is only a few metres higher; for another, this ascent offers a fine mix of easy climbing, tricky route-finding and, in between, repeated easier walking sections.
What is true of the Große Zinne is also true of the Westliche Zinne: alpine history was written on its faces. The milestones of alpine climbing were pushed further here again and again, and even the roof in the middle of the north face, which juts out more than 40 metres and was long considered impossible, is now climbed by Pan Aroma, a free-climbing route by Alexander Huber (XI-). The fact that the Westliche Zinne is a few metres lower than the Große Zinne meant that its first ascent came a full 10 years later.
THE TOUR
Westliche Zinne – normal route: The starting point for this wonderful climb is the car park at the Auronzohütte above Misurina. First we walk a short way below the south flank before zigzagging up a path across the scree fields to the start of the climb.
From the start, a gully leads upwards, partly on scree, partly in easy climbing. This is followed by a stretch of easy walking terrain up to the rock face, where the route steepens. We climb the face at grade III, followed by a short traverse into a gorge. At its end a chimney (III+) awaits, leading to the Ringband ledge. We traverse the ledge a short way to the left and then tackle the summit wall.
Pure climbing, never harder than the difficulties already overcome, takes us all the way to the summit.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
'- Complete organisation and guiding by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
'- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Auronzohütte toll road fees
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - October
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Lake Misurina
Requirements
Safety-relevant
'- Climbing at grade III
- Sure-footedness, even on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
'- A head for heights
PRICE
Participants:
1-2 people
Price:
Tailor-made on request
Every tour is priced individually.
The price depends, among other things, on the duration and difficulty of the tour, group size, date, travel effort and scope of services.
You can find more information about our rates in our terms and conditions.
If you have any questions or need more information, just add them in the comments field of the enquiry form.
Before you send your enquiry: please read the "important information" on the risks of mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
on request
PROGRAMME
Day tour: Westliche Zinne
We meet at an agreed time at the car park by Lake Dürrensee. We drive together to the Auronzohütte. After a short gear check, we set off towards the entry gully. We rope up and climb through entertaining terrain along the normal route to the top of the Westliche Zinne. Fine climbing sections alternate with easier walking terrain for a lovely mix. After about 3–4 hours of climbing we reach the summit.
The view from the summit, and above all the sight of the Große Zinne from an angle that very few people ever get to see, is impressive. On a short rope and with a few abseils we return to the foot of the Westliche Zinne and back to our starting point at the Auronzohütte. The whole tour takes about 8–9 hours.
Total time: 8.5 h | ↑ 700 m | ↓ 700 m | Difficulty: III+ (UIAA)
The story of the first ascent
Because of its lower height, the Westliche Zinne was considered a less desirable objective than its bigger neighbour. As a result, it was only 10 years after the first ascent of the Große Zinne that the two alpinists Luigi Orsolina and Gustav Gröger made an attempt. In August 1879 they got as far as a rock pinnacle on the south flank, which in the fog they mistakenly took for the summit. A few days later, on 21 August of the same year, Michel Innerkofler, a cousin of Franz Innerkofler, and Georg Ploner, innkeeper in Schluderbach, reached the highest point and cleared up the mistake.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
What do I need to bring for the normal route on the Westliche Zinne?
You should be sure-footed, feel comfortable in exposed terrain and already have some climbing experience. The tour on the Westliche Zinne is a classic alpine climb and thrives on the mix of walking terrain, easy climbing and short, more demanding sections.
What equipment do I need for the tour?
Above all, you need suitable mountain boots and weatherproof clothing. You will receive the detailed packing list with your confirmation email. Technical equipment can be rented from Südtirolalpin for a small wear-and-tear fee.
How long does the tour on the Westliche Zinne take?
You should allow around 8.5 hours in total for the tour. Actual walking and climbing time is about 6.5 hours, plus breaks, rope manoeuvres and the overall pace set together with your South Tyrolean mountain guide.
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# WESTLICHE ZINNE # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE