1874
3,094 m
Johann Innerkofler, Michel Innerkofler
ZWÖLFERKOFEL
Normal route (IV)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
650,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
Zwölfer is one of those mountains you do not simply tick off on the side – a long, serious Dolomite summit in the heart of the Sexten Dolomites.
3,094 m · Difficulty IV · 1 day · Sexten Dolomites
Zwölfer, as its name already suggests, is part of the Sexten Sundial and for many it is even the finest mountain in the Sexten Dolomites. Anyone aiming for the 3,094-metre summit has a long and difficult ascent ahead. That is why Zwölfer is only rarely climbed, and the steep rock faces are usually quiet.
The long approach to this remote Dolomite summit can be shortened a little with an overnight stay at the Büllelejochhütte or the Zsigmondyhütte, allowing the tour to be split over two days. This gives you more time to fully enjoy the tremendous setting of the Sexten Dolomites, and on summit day you will also have far more in reserve to properly savour this unique climbing route.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Zwölferkofel is considered one of the most difficult summits in the entire Eastern Alps because of the difficulty of its normal route. The variant commonly used today, the Draschroute, is graded IV and demands sustained, challenging Dolomite climbing over long sections.
The route through the ice gully chosen by the first ascensionists is no longer possible because the snow and ice have melted out. This difficult ascent, combined with the long approach and descent, makes this tour one of the most demanding yet also one of the most impressive undertakings in the Dolomites.
Zwölferkofel stands somewhat apart in the Sexten Dolomites: big, serious, and anything but a quick summit to squeeze in casually. That is exactly what gives this tour its appeal. Anyone out here is not climbing a fashionable route, but a long alpine rock climb on one of the most striking mountains in the area. A tour that will most definitely stay in the memory for a very long time.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Overnight stay at the hut (possibly)
- Expenses (possibly overnight stay) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
10-12 hours
Meeting point:
Dolomitenhof parking lot - Fischleintal
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascent and descent
PRICING
Participants:
1 person
Prices:
1 person:
650,- €
If you have any questions or need further information, please write them in the comment field of the inquiry form.
Before submitting your request: Please read the "important information" about risks in mountaineering carefully.
Dates:
upon request
PROGRAM
Day 1: Zwölferkofel Normal Route
The starting point for the ascent of Zwölferkofel is the car park at the Dolomitenhof in the Fischleintal. From here it takes just under 3 hours to reach the Zsigmondyhütte and continue up to the Zwölferscharte. From the notch it is not far to the start of the route. At the beginning of the technical ground we rope up and first climb pitches of UIAA II and one pitch of UIAA III to a ledge. Here we follow the Draschroute (IV), which today is mostly regarded as the standard normal route. The climbing becomes a little more demanding and leads directly beside the ice gully, the line of the first ascent party. Over several pitches in grades III and IV we reach the Ringband, after which the climbing eases again somewhat. Mostly on grade II ground, we continue to the summit. From the chief of the Sexten Sundial there is a magnificent view of the bold towers, pinnacles and rock walls of the Sexten Dolomites. On the descent we rappel again via the Draschroute, or downclimb the easier sections.
Total duration of the day tour: 10–12 h, 1,650 m of ascent and descent.
Info: The tour can optionally be split over two days by making the approach independently the day before to the Zsigmondyhütte or Büllelejochhütte.
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent of the Zwölferkofel was achieved by local mountain guides Johann and Michel Innerkofler on September 28, 1874, through the so-called ice gully between the Mittlerer and Hoher Zwölfer. Today's standard route no longer follows their tracks. The ice gully has largely melted away and is mostly just an unpleasant scree slope. Today, the rock climbing to the left of the gully is done. A route with a UIAA grade of III difficulty, it was first ascended by Johann and Michel Innerkofler with J. Reichl and M. Simon on September 6, 1887.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS - (FAQs)
Is the tour on Zwölferkofel also possible in two days?
Yes, for an undertaking of this length that is actually a very good option. The approach can be made independently to the Zsigmondyhütte or the Büllelejochhütte, and the next morning you meet the mountain guide and set off from there towards the summit.
What requirements should I bring for the tour?
You should have very good fitness for a long day in the mountains and solid climbing experience on rocky terrain. Zwölferkofel is not a summit to be done casually, but a serious and long climbing tour.
What equipment do I need?
Most important are suitable mountaineering boots and weatherproof clothing. The detailed packing list will come with the confirmation email, and technical equipment can be hired from the mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
