1874
3,094 m
Johann Innerkofler, Michel Innerkofler
ZWÖLFERKOFEL
Normal route (IV)
Südtirolalpin
Certified Mountain Guide
IFMGA - Mountain Guides Associations
Mail suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Prices from
650,- €
THE MOUNTAIN
The Zwölfer is, as its name suggests, part of the Sexten sundial and, for many, even the most beautiful mountain in the Sexten Dolomites. Anyone aiming to reach the 3,094-meter-high summit faces a long and difficult climb. Therefore, the Zwölfer is rarely climbed, and there is little looseness on the steep rock faces. The long approach to this remote Dolomite peak can be shortened somewhat with an overnight stay at the Büllelejoch Hut or the Zsigmondy Hut, splitting the tour into two days. This allows you to better and more thoroughly enjoy the magnificent ambiance of the Sexten Dolomites, and also gives you considerably more energy on summit day to fully savor this unique climb.
ABOUT THE TOUR
Zwölferkofel - Normal Route: Due to the difficulty of the normal route, the Zwölferkofel is one of the most difficult peaks in the entire Eastern Alps. The current variant of the normal route, the Dresch Route, is rated Grade IV and requires long stretches of challenging Dolomite climbing. The route through the ice gully, chosen by the first ascents, is no longer possible due to the melting snow. The difficult ascent coupled with the long approach and descent make this tour one of the most demanding but also most impressive undertakings in the Dolomites. A tour that will definitely be remembered for a long time.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Entire organization and guidance by a state-certified mountain guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Overnight stay at the hut (possibly)
- Expenses (possibly overnight stay) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per piece of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
10-12 hours
Meeting point:
Dolomitenhof parking lot - Fischleintal
What you need
Safety-relevant requirements
- Grade III climbing
- Surefootedness even on loose scree
Requirements for enjoyment
- No fear of heights
- Very good physical condition for a long day of climbing with strenuous ascent and descent
PRICING
PROGRAM
The meeting point and starting point for the ascent of the Zwölfer is the parking lot at the Dolomitenhof in the Fischleintal Valley.
From here, it's just under three hours to the Zsigmondy Hut and then on to the Zwölferscharte (Zwölferscharte). From the saddle, it's not far to the start of the route.
At the beginning of the difficulties, we rope up and climb first over pitches of grade II and one pitch of grade III to a ledge.
Here we follow the Drasch Route (IV), now generally considered the standard route. The climbing becomes somewhat more challenging and leads up directly alongside the ice gully, the route of the first ascents.
After several pitches, always grade III and IV, we reach the ring ledge, and the climbing becomes somewhat easier again. The climb continues mainly over grade II terrain to the summit.
From the top of the Sexten Sundial, you have a magnificent view of the bold towers, pinnacles, and rock faces of the Sexten Dolomites. A unique summit experience.
On the descent, you'll abseil down the threshing route again or climb down the easier sections.
Time required for the entire tour: 10-12 hours.
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent of the Zwölferkofel was achieved by local mountain guides Johann and Michel Innerkofler on September 28, 1874, through the so-called ice gully between the Mittlerer and Hoher Zwölfer. Today's standard route no longer follows their tracks. The ice gully has largely melted away and is mostly just an unpleasant scree slope. Today, the rock climbing to the left of the gully is done. A route with a UIAA grade of III difficulty, it was first ascended by Johann and Michel Innerkofler with J. Reichl and M. Simon on September 6, 1887.
