1874
3,094 m
Johann Innerkofler, Michel Innerkofler
ZWÖLFERKOFEL
Normal route (IV)
Südtirolalpin
IFMGA certified mountain and ski guides
South Tyrolean Mountain and Ski Guides Association
Email suedtirolalpin@gmail.com
Price from:
€650
for 1 person
Duration:
1 day
Zwölferkofel – Normal route
The Zwölfer is a unique Dolomite summit with superb climbing and the heart of the Sexten Dolomites
3,094 m · Difficulty IV · 1 day · Sexten Dolomites
As its name suggests, the Zwölfer ("Twelve") is part of the Sexten Sundial, and for many it is the most beautiful mountain in the Sexten Dolomites. Anyone who wants to reach the 3,094-metre summit faces a long and difficult ascent. That is why the Zwölfer is rarely climbed, and its steep rock flanks are usually quiet.
The long approach to this remote Dolomite summit can be shortened somewhat with an overnight stay at the Büllelejochhütte or the Zsigmondyhütte, splitting the tour over two days. This lets you enjoy the tremendous setting of the Sexten Dolomites more fully, and on summit day you have far more in reserve to really savour this unique climbing tour.
THE TOUR
Because of the difficulty of its normal route, the Zwölferkofel ranks among the most difficult summits in the entire Eastern Alps. The variant of the normal route commonly used today, the Draschroute, is graded IV and calls for demanding Dolomite climbing over long stretches.
The route through the ice gully chosen by the first ascensionists is no longer possible because the ice has melted out. The difficult climb, combined with the long approach and descent, makes this tour one of the most demanding – but also one of the most impressive – undertakings in the Dolomites.
The Zwölferkofel stands a little apart in the Sexten Dolomites: big, serious and anything but a quick summit to squeeze in. That is precisely the appeal of this tour. Up here you are not on a fashionable route, but on a long climbing tour up one of the most striking mountains in the area. A tour that will definitely stay with you for a very long time.
INFO
Services
Included in the price:
- Complete organisation and guiding by an IFMGA certified mountain and ski guide
- All necessary reservations are made in advance
Additional costs for participants:
- Transfers to and from the meeting point
- Overnight stay at the hut, if applicable
- Expenses (overnight stay, if applicable) for the mountain guide
- Individual tips
* Rental equipment (€10 per item of equipment)
Facts
Location:
Sexten Dolomites
Best time of year:
June - September
Duration:
1 day
Meeting point:
Dolomitenhof car park - Fischleintal
Requirements
Safety-relevant
- Climbing at grade III
- Sure-footedness, including on loose scree
Key to enjoyment
- A head for heights
- Very good fitness for a long climbing day with a strenuous approach and descent
PRICE
Participants:
1 person
Price from
€650
for 1 person
PROGRAMME
Day 1: Zwölferkofel normal route
The starting point for the ascent of the Zwölferkofel is the car park at the Dolomitenhof in the Fischleintal. From here it takes just under 3 hours to reach the Zsigmondyhütte and continue up to the Zwölferscharte. From the col it is not far to the start of the route. Where the difficulties begin, we rope up and first climb grade II pitches and one grade III pitch to a ledge. Here we follow the Draschroute (IV), which is now generally regarded as the usual normal route. The climbing becomes a little more demanding and leads up directly beside the ice gully, the first ascensionists' route. Over several pitches of grade III and IV we reach the Ringband, after which the climbing eases off again. We continue to the summit mainly on grade II terrain. From the "boss" of the Sexten Sundial there is a magnificent view of the bold towers, pinnacles and rock faces of the Sexten Dolomites. On the descent we abseil back down the Draschroute or downclimb the easier sections.
Total duration of the day tour: 10–12 h, 1,650 m of ascent and descent.
Info: The tour can optionally be split over two days by making the approach to the Zsigmondyhütte or Büllelejochhütte on your own the day before.
The story of the first ascent
The first ascent of the Zwölferkofel was made by the local mountain guides Johann and Michel Innerkofler on 28 September 1874, via the so-called ice gully between the Mittlerer and Hoher Zwölfer. Today's normal route no longer follows in their footsteps: the ice gully has largely melted away and is now mostly just an unpleasant scree slope. Today the climb goes up the rock to the left of the gully, on a route of UIAA grade IV that was first climbed by Johann and Michel Innerkofler with J. Reichl and M. Simon on 6 September 1887.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS (FAQs)
Can the Zwölferkofel tour also be done over two days?
Yes – for such a long undertaking, that is actually a good idea. You can make the approach to the Zsigmondyhütte or the Büllelejochhütte on your own, then meet the mountain guide there the next morning and set off towards the summit.
What do I need to bring to the tour in terms of experience?
You should have very good fitness for a long day in the mountains and solid climbing experience on rocky terrain. The Zwölferkofel is not a summit to tick off on the side, but a serious and long climbing tour.
What equipment do I need?
Above all, you need suitable mountain boots and weatherproof clothing. The exact packing list comes with your confirmation email, and technical equipment can be rented from the mountain guide for a small wear-and-tear fee.
Looking for a different tour? Send us your request
MOUNTAIN GUIDE ALPINE CLASSICS
# ZWÖLFERKOFEL # NORMAL ROUTE # DOLOMITES # MOUNTAIN GUIDE